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Slow going...

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brandoncw
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Slow going...

Post #1 by brandoncw » Tue Jan 15, 2019 3:40 pm

Yep, havent been able to get anything since about November, still have plenty to get but a lot of the larger price tags are out of the way. Still need pistons (custom), throttle body efi, bearings, gaskets, studs, turbo can and manifolds.
Already have the turbo, roller rockers, molar h beam rods (possibly need minor modifications), si oversized valves, 85 cylinder head, and some other miscelaneous parts.

I'm about to order a complete gasket set and was wondering if anyone had any reccomendations. Also getting arp head studs and King rod bearings from summit racing.

Need help on what valve stem seals to get. Umbrella type? Positive? What brand is best? Material?
Skilled labor isn't cheap, Cheap labor isn't skilled.

brandoncw
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Location: Fulton, Missouri

Re: Slow going...

Post #2 by brandoncw » Tue Jan 15, 2019 3:55 pm

In case anyone wanted to know, this is the part number for standard size King main bearings for the 300 i6

MB7750SI
Skilled labor isn't cheap, Cheap labor isn't skilled.

jason832
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Re: Slow going...

Post #3 by jason832 » Tue Jan 15, 2019 5:07 pm

Fel pro sells a gasket kit with everything on summit for like 50$. Buy a fel pro 1024 head gasket on top.

The included intake /exhaust gasket isn't bad but ive ripped the paper intake one every single time and just kept using the exhaust half only.... but I now buy the mr. Gasket 260. For a while summit was sending out a v8 gasket labeled as a 300 I6 gasket, Im sure they've sorted that batch out but I can check tonight as I just got one in.

pmuller9
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Re: Slow going...

Post #4 by pmuller9 » Tue Jan 15, 2019 11:06 pm

I prefer the 11/32" x .530 Viton metal body seal. Positive stop.
The valve guides will have to be machined to fit the seals.
Most machine shops have the tool to cut the top of the guides.

brandoncw
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Location: Fulton, Missouri

Re: Slow going...

Post #5 by brandoncw » Tue Jan 15, 2019 11:56 pm

pmuller9 wrote:I prefer the 11/32" x .530 Viton metal body seal. Positive stop.
The valve guides will have to be machined to fit the seals.
Most machine shops have the tool to cut the top of the guides.
jason832 wrote:Fel pro sells a gasket kit with everything on summit for like 50$. Buy a fel pro 1024 head gasket on top.

The included intake /exhaust gasket isn't bad but ive ripped the paper intake one every single time and just kept using the exhaust half only.... but I now buy the mr. Gasket 260. For a while summit was sending out a v8 gasket labeled as a 300 I6 gasket, Im sure they've sorted that batch out but I can check tonight as I just got one in.

Ok cool, thanks for the info, as soon as I get most of my parts together Im gonna start looking for machine shops to really get the ball rolling. I ended up selling the stang since there was no practical way to move it from missouri to California. Luckily the army could ship all my engine stuff to me. I palleted it myself though, I dont trust no one :nono:
Skilled labor isn't cheap, Cheap labor isn't skilled.

brandoncw
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Re: Slow going...

Post #6 by brandoncw » Wed Jan 16, 2019 9:24 pm

I noticed there are two different size head studs ARP makes for the 300, are they just a preference thing or is the 3/8 specific to one of the year categories and 7/16 specific to another?
Skilled labor isn't cheap, Cheap labor isn't skilled.

1964f100240
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Re: Slow going...

Post #7 by 1964f100240 » Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:20 pm

Where are you located in California I use a good machine shop in San bernardino ca he is top notch basham motorsports.

brandoncw
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Re: Slow going...

Post #8 by brandoncw » Thu Jan 17, 2019 1:17 am

1964f100240 wrote:Where are you located in California I use a good machine shop in San bernardino ca he is top notch basham motorsports.

Fort Irwin CA, near-ish to Barstow. At least thats the closest town at 40 miles away. ill look them up. Even if they are a bit of a drive id rather take my stuff to a reputable person than a shop I have no insight on
Skilled labor isn't cheap, Cheap labor isn't skilled.

1964f100240
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Re: Slow going...

Post #9 by 1964f100240 » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:09 pm

Thats 1.5 hours away not bad there is also some good machie shops in victorville thats about 30 mins from barstow

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: Slow going...

Post #10 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:33 pm

brandoncw wrote:I noticed there are two different size head studs ARP makes for the 300, are they just a preference thing or is the 3/8 specific to one of the year categories and 7/16 specific to another?

If you mean rocker studs there are three types of rocker attachments:

3/8 w/ 3/8-NF lock nuts
3/8 w/ 5/16-NF positive stop shoulder for lock nuts
5/16-NC hold down bolts for stamped rockers w/ fulcrums

If you mean head studs to affix the head to the block all 240 / 300 had 7/16-NC bolts.

Some builders of performance engines like to upgrade to 1/2" studs to retain head gasket clamping forces better with high compression.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

brandoncw
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Re: Slow going...

Post #11 by brandoncw » Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:17 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:
Some builders of performance engines like to upgrade to 1/2" studs to retain head gasket clamping forces better with high compression.


Seems like its a simple enough mod. But do you think its worth the extra work?
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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: Slow going...

Post #12 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:36 am

Its worth the extra work if you are in the realm of producing 600 - 700 HP. Power leveIs only possible with a crossflow head or a boosted engine. I have finally achieved a reasonable head gasket lifespan while running in the 550 HP range using 7/16 ARP or B&B head studs. That is why I prefaced my statement by saying "some builders...".
Good question though and I hope I clarified it somewhat.

Of course, if you have a less exotic build It wouldn't hurt if you used 1/2" studs with one caveat -

For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So if you are pulling upwards on the block deck surface with bigger studs then there is going to be more bore distortion using 1/2" studs. Bore distortion in most Ford engines is significant since nearly all of FoMoCo engines use only four studs per cylinder. So I highly recommend boring and honing the cylinders with a deck plate to simulate the attachment loading the studs give. Since I acquired my own deck plate every engine I build I will use a deck plate to eliminate the square-ish bore near the deck surface.

Adding additional studs is also a good thing. But that's another story for another time.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

brandoncw
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Re: Slow going...

Post #13 by brandoncw » Wed Jan 23, 2019 1:09 am

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:Its worth the extra work if you are in the realm of producing 600 - 700 HP. Power leveIs only possible with a crossflow head or a boosted engine. I have finally achieved a reasonable head gasket lifespan while running in the 550 HP range using 7/16 ARP or B&B head studs. That is why I prefaced my statement by saying "some builders...".
Good question though and I hope I clarified it somewhat.

Of course, if you have a less exotic build It wouldn't hurt if you used 1/2" studs with one caveat -

For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So if you are pulling upwards on the block deck surface with bigger studs then there is going to be more bore distortion using 1/2" studs. Bore distortion in most Ford engines is significant since nearly all of FoMoCo engines use only four studs per cylinder. So I highly recommend boring and honing the cylinders with a deck plate to simulate the attachment loading the studs give. Since I acquired my own deck plate every engine I build I will use a deck plate to eliminate the square-ish bore near the deck surface.

Adding additional studs is also a good thing. But that's another story for another time.

Ill keep this in mind then, if I happen to have trouble with head gaskets blowing thing I may do this along with a head and deck "clean up" cut to hopefully eliminate the problem. Thanks for sharing.
Skilled labor isn't cheap, Cheap labor isn't skilled.

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