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1984 300 won't run

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1984 F150
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1984 300 won't run

Post #1 by 1984 F150 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 8:53 am

I purchased a 1984 F150 a month ago, with the 300 in it. Someone had butchered the TFI ignition wiring, as a result it was non running.
So, the first thing I did, was to convert it to Duraspark II, and a non feedback carburetor. I managed to get it to run, then I yanked all the old TFI/EEC harness out. It ran smooth down the highway, but had a very rough idle, with black smoke. It got to the point where it would not go over 5 mph, and when I tried to step on the gas it would violently shake. Here is a list of what I have done to it:

Duraspark harness and distributor, from a 1983 300.
New distributor cap and rotor
New spark plugs and wires
New Duraspark control module
New distributor stator
New Duraspark coil
Had carburetor overhauled.

Compression good at 150 PSI all cyls

Truck will not start, just spits out of the carburetor, when it tries to run it is very poor.
Any thoughts on what is wrong, or what else I can check?

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 12:45 pm

From your description it sounds like the carb is causing your problems (flooding) I would take it back to were it was overhauled. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #3 by sdiesel » Sun Feb 24, 2019 1:27 pm

Is dixxy hold doen bolt tight ?
Is dist gear pin broken?
Reluctot wheel?
Plug wires on properly this is a big problem often overlooked twy shale loose.
Its simple fix
a long love affair with the 300 six.
my lastest and final fling is a fresh 300 in an 88 ford f350 dually 4X flatbed

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #4 by 1984 F150 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 1:43 pm

sdiesel wrote:Is dixxy hold doen bolt tight ? Yes
Is dist gear pin broken? No
Reluctot wheel? It looked fine
Plug wires on properly this is a big problem often overlooked twy shale loose.
Its simple fix
Yes they are on tight and in correct order

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #5 by 1984 F150 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 1:43 pm

bubba22349 wrote:From your description it sounds like the carb is causing your problems (flooding) I would take it back to were it was overhauled. Good luck :nod:


I can have it looked over again, although it was done by a well known carburetor shop

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #6 by Shorty » Sun Feb 24, 2019 4:45 pm

all it takes is one tiny particle to get past the filter (you have put a new one on i'm sure) and the carb will overfill because the needle doesn't close. disassemble, clean, re assemble and put a new filter on you should be good to go.
85 F150 on 78 bronco frame C6 np205 welded dana44 front, trussed posi nine inch rear. EFI exhaust manifolds into one 2 1/2" rolls on 35x12.5x15 Maxxis Trepador.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #7 by 1984 F150 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 5:30 pm

Forgot to mention, all new fuel line, to the cleaned out gas tank. New filter too

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #8 by wallen7 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:37 pm

Is the cat converter still on - if the carb was flooding it could have melted the catalyst stopping the exhaust mostly up. It is simple to drop the exhaust pipe loose from the exhaust manifold to test drive - if it runs good then you know where to go.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #9 by 1984 F150 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:38 pm

049.JPG
Here is the firing order for my truck, I put arrows showing where #1 was when I brought it to TDC on compression stroke, and where #1 shows to be per the manual
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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #10 by bubba22349 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 7:47 pm

Then the Distribitor is in wrong position when it was installed. Your choice is to move the plug wires around to match the rotor position or restabe the distribtor. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

1984 F150
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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #11 by 1984 F150 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 8:02 pm

bubba22349 wrote:Then the Distribitor is in wrong position when it was installed. Your choice is to move the plug wires around to match the rotor position or restabe the distribtor. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:


So I can just move the plug wires around, without having to bring it up #1 to TDC again?

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #12 by sdiesel » Sun Feb 24, 2019 9:44 pm

Yes, but.
Do the job properly, setting dist in its proper tooth .
OnlY IF U KNOW FOR SURE the diz is out a tooth.
Otherwise I go chasing time back and forth over and over.
Set it up right, retime, walk away smilin!

And there somthing stinky, about this.
If it ran well and now does not, that means, possibly, that time is slipping. In the music biz we generally blame the drummer, in ur case, look for the things I mentioned above.
Dizzy jumped time caise bolt is loose, oil pump jammed and broke a tooth on diz gear, stuff like that.
Last edited by sdiesel on Sun Feb 24, 2019 9:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
a long love affair with the 300 six.
my lastest and final fling is a fresh 300 in an 88 ford f350 dually 4X flatbed

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #13 by bubba22349 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 9:46 pm

Yes if you know for sure the engine was actually at TDC. Did you verify it to see if the #1 pistion was also at TDC matching with the Timing Mark on the Crankshaft Dampner? Some of the 300's have more than one set of timing marks. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #14 by 1984 F150 » Sun Feb 24, 2019 9:59 pm

bubba22349 wrote:Yes if you know for sure the engine was actually at TDC. Did you verify it to see if the #1 pistion was also at TDC matching with the Timing Mark on the Crankshaft Dampner? Some of the 300's have more than one set of timing marks. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:


I bumped it over till I felt the compression against my finger. My 300 has a timing tab on the right side of the block

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #15 by bubba22349 » Mon Feb 25, 2019 1:12 am

Ok then it sounds like its all correct except for the distributors rotor position. If the plug wires are installed in the factory position with the rotor being two cylinders ahead it shouldn't run. Moving the wires will work but the best way is still for it to be installed in the factory location, because the factory style wires wil fit better. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #16 by MechRick » Mon Feb 25, 2019 6:36 pm

Is it spitting air and fuel out of the carb while cranking, or just dumping liquid fuel like a stuck float valve?

Usually when an engine spits air and fuel out along with wrong distributor timing it indicates wrong cam timing.
1994 F150, 4.9L/ZF 5 speed, C-Vic police driveshaft
EFI head w/mild port work, 3 angle valve job
1996 long block, stock pistons, ARP rod bolts
Stock cam, aluminum cam gear
Hedman header, full mandrel bent duals, crossover, super turbos
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73244
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1988 F250 2x4, 460 ZF 5 speed.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #17 by 1984 F150 » Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:15 pm

MechRick wrote:Is it spitting air and fuel out of the carb while cranking, or just dumping liquid fuel like a stuck float valve?

Usually when an engine spits air and fuel out along with wrong distributor timing it indicates wrong cam timing.


It is spitting some air/fuel out while attempting to start. After re setting the dist and running firing order today as per my Haynes manual, it would run briefly, but when pressing down on the gas it would stumble, and backfire out the exhaust then die. :bang:

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #18 by pmuller9 » Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:22 pm

Did you set the timing with a timing light?

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #19 by 1984 F150 » Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:28 pm

pmuller9 wrote:Did you set the timing with a timing light?


Won't stay running long enough to do that

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #20 by pmuller9 » Tue Feb 26, 2019 9:21 am

Let's static time your ignition

Bring the crankshaft to 10 degrees BTDC on the #1 compression stroke.

Remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire position on the cap.

Make sure the rotor reluctor is lined up with the center of the blue pickup coil as shown below.
Your coil may not be blue but you get the picture.

Duraspark Distributor.jpg
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Last edited by pmuller9 on Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #21 by 1984 F150 » Tue Feb 26, 2019 6:13 pm

I do have a red wire, with red hash marks that is part of the Duraspark harness, comes out of the 4 wire harness plug where it plugs into the module, and has a grey female plug on the other end. Is this supposed to be hooked up to something? Also, is there any difference in the number of teeth on the distributor gear between the Duraspark and the TFI one? My truck had an EEC setup, but I ditched that, after the previous owner did some wire butchering

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #22 by Backwoodswalker375 » Tue Feb 26, 2019 7:20 pm

I would check to see if the cam gear jumped a tooth. You can pull valve cover to determine that. No.1 piston at Tdc and both valves closed will tell the story. Or pull timing cover and upgrade to metal gears and advance cam 4 degrees with offset key. Reset distributor to proper setting and it should run fine. If not replace distributor. Distributor gears are the same on all 300s as far as I know. The metal gear set and cam advance is well worth the money. Good luck on your project. Steve

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #23 by 1984 F150 » Tue Feb 26, 2019 7:48 pm

Backwoodswalker375 wrote:I would check to see if the cam gear jumped a tooth. You can pull valve cover to determine that. No.1 piston at Tdc and both valves closed will tell the story. Or pull timing cover and upgrade to metal gears and advance cam 4 degrees with offset key. Reset distributor to proper setting and it should run fine. If not replace distributor. Distributor gears are the same on all 300s as far as I know. The metal gear set and cam advance is well worth the money. Good luck on your project. Steve


I already checked that, both #1 cylinder valves were closed as they should be with #1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #24 by pmuller9 » Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:56 pm

Did you go through the steps I outlined in post #20?

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #25 by 1984 F150 » Tue Feb 26, 2019 9:00 pm

pmuller9 wrote:Did you go through the steps I outlined in post #20?


Was only in the low teens temperature wise, and I've already have a doozy of a cold. Going to attempt it tomorrow depending on how it is outside

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #26 by Econoline » Wed Feb 27, 2019 11:03 am

Have you tried slowly advancing or retarding the distributor to see if it will start and run. It sounds like the timing is a bit off. If you have someone else crank it while you shoot the light, you should see if the mark is on the timing tab or is retard or advanced beyond the tab.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #27 by wallen7 » Wed Feb 27, 2019 6:28 pm

If you really think it is an ignition problem I remember one that really kicked my tail back in 1974 when DSII first came out. It would pop and spit out the carb, turns out that the purple and orange wires were crossed in a harness plug. It really messed up the timing when you tried to accelerate. Also made sure that you have the right ignition module. latest Ford part number is 1U2Z12A199AA

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #28 by 1984 F150 » Wed Feb 27, 2019 11:50 pm

wallen7 wrote:If you really think it is an ignition problem I remember one that really kicked my tail back in 1974 when DSII first came out. It would pop and spit out the carb, turns out that the purple and orange wires were crossed in a harness plug. It really messed up the timing when you tried to accelerate. Also made sure that you have the right ignition module. latest Ford part number is 1U2Z12A199AA


This is what my truck is doing, pops and spits. Were you able to un cross the harness plug wires?? Also, I was thinking of running a wire from the I terminal on the starter relay to the Batt terminal on the coil, to see if that would get it to start. Carb and associated parts are all good, has to be something ignition/electrical. I still have that mystery wire to find out what it's for, red with yellow hash marks, is part of the Duraspark harness, female plug on one end, part of the 4 wire plug that goes into the module. I have the module, with blue grommet, is a brand new one

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #29 by bubba22349 » Thu Feb 28, 2019 7:31 am

Here is a post I did on wiring the DSII using all stock Ford parts i.e. the DS II Distribitor, Blue stran relef DS II IGN Box, stock DS II coil and a factory wire harness. This is to adapt the DS II ignition system using the stock Ford wire harness into the older Ford trucks. The #3 & #5 below will give your answer on wiring the I terminal into the harness, though it may not be nessary on your year of truck unless you are using a ballest resistor or a resistor wire, but it certainly won't hurt to hook it up.

There are a number of ways to wire a DuraSpark II system (DSII) depending on how much rewiring of your car you want to do. Here is how I did it on a number of early cars and trucks that is very simple and it keeps and uses all the car or trucks original wiring only adding one or two new wires. Also if you should ever want to return to the stock system it's easy to change back.

1. With the new DSII Distributor installed its 3 Wire socket pluggs into the DSII wire harnesses 3 wire plug and then you can start to route the DSII wire harness. These are the Orange, Black, and Purple wires.

2. The Ignition Control Module (ICM) gets mounted to the inter fender panel and the DSII harness 4 wire plug goes into the ICM 4 wire socket. The Orange, Black, and Purple wires are connected to the distributor (as in above #1 by the 3 wire plug), the 4th Green wire goes to the coils - side and if your also using a Tach its hooked to that same side. Some people run an extra ground wire to one of the mounting screws of the ICM if the inter fender panel is made of metal it probally isn't nessisary but it also won't hurt if you want to.

3. I used most all of the stock vehicle wiring including the Pink Resistor wire that goes to the Battery or the + Side of the stock Ford coil. This Pink wire goes right into the DuraSpark II coils Red wire hooked up to the Battery or + side of the new DSII coil, this wire comes from the ICM's two wire plug (with a Red and White Wire). Also if using the resistor wire or a ballst resistor to power the coil in the ignition switch's run position then other Red wire coming from the I terminal (for extra voltage when starting) from the starter solenoid goes onto this same + Red wire on coil.

4. The DSII horseshoe clip is made so that the Green wire coming out of the DSII wire harness plugs onto the Tach or the - side of the coil, so you just plug it on as is.

5. The ICM 2 wire plug socket is plugged into the 2 wire plug and has a Red and a White wire coming out of it. I ran a new wire connecting this Red wire and splicing it into the Pink wire about 2 or 3 inches under the dash behind the ignistion switch so it's before the Resistor in the Pink wire, I even used a Crimp On type Splice Connector so I didn't have to cut any of the orginal wiring harness. If you have a Volt / Ohm meter probe the wire there you are looking for at least a full 12 + volts with the Key on in the Run position as the ICM needs a full 12 volts to run correctly. This is all you really need to make it run and many people don't even bother to hookup the White wire. The White wire though is for the Ignition retard feature of the ICM and is a good idea to hookup. To do so just run a new wire connecting the White wire over to the S terminal of the starter solenoid and now your all done and can Enjoy all the benefits of the new DSII ignition system. Good luck :nod: :thumbup:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #30 by wallen7 » Thu Feb 28, 2019 7:39 am

I am going by memory, in the 2 wire plug on the module the red wire is the power or switch, the white wire goes to the solenoid for 12 volts while starting. The 4 wire plug has black wire which is ground and goes back to dist, orange and purple to dist and green with maybe a stripe that goes to dist side of coil. Yes I was able to switch the pins in the connector on that harness, it was a brand new 1974 T-Bird. I have also run into similar things with cat converters being stopped up so don’t forget about that. Reading your posts it sounds like you have been over most everything else, I had a boss once tell me after working on ignition and carb several times that I needed to look elsewhere, I found an exhaust lobe worn off the camshaft.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #31 by woodbutcher » Thu Feb 28, 2019 11:22 am

:hmmm: On my 1984 F150 all of the DS2 hookups were already in the trucks wiring harness.It was truly a plug and play install.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
"People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election".
Otto von Bismarck

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #32 by 1984 F150 » Thu Feb 28, 2019 7:32 pm

wallen7 wrote:I am going by memory, in the 2 wire plug on the module the red wire is the power or switch, the white wire goes to the solenoid for 12 volts while starting. The 4 wire plug has black wire which is ground and goes back to dist, orange and purple to dist and green with maybe a stripe that goes to dist side of coil. Yes I was able to switch the pins in the connector on that harness, it was a brand new 1974 T-Bird. I have also run into similar things with cat converters being stopped up so don’t forget about that. Reading your posts it sounds like you have been over most everything else, I had a boss once tell me after working on ignition and carb several times that I needed to look elsewhere, I found an exhaust lobe worn off the camshaft.


No cat converter on my truck, just has a regular pipe on it

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #33 by 1984 F150 » Thu Feb 28, 2019 7:34 pm

woodbutcher wrote::hmmm: On my 1984 F150 all of the DS2 hookups were already in the trucks wiring harness.It was truly a plug and play install.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo


Mine were too. There is a red wire, with yellow hash marks on it, comes out of the 4 prong plug, has power in run position. Female plug on other end no clue what it is for. Truck just cranks, but not firing

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #34 by wallen7 » Thu Feb 28, 2019 7:58 pm

check out this link https://goo.gl/images/xKbijk

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #35 by 1984 F150 » Thu Feb 28, 2019 9:08 pm

wallen7 wrote:check out this link https://goo.gl/images/xKbijk


I did an ohms check on the ballast resistor circuit, my manual says 0.8-1.6 ohms, when I checked the reading on my meter,it read infinite resistance. It cranks normally, just will not fire

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #36 by wallen7 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 9:34 am

Put a jumper around the bypass resistor to test - make sure you are getting 12 volts to the coil when starting and also the module power circuit.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #37 by 1984 F150 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 10:02 am

wallen7 wrote:Put a jumper around the bypass resistor to test - make sure you are getting 12 volts to the coil when starting and also the module power circuit.


I can do that, where do I run the jumper from, and to?

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #38 by wallen7 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 11:30 am

For testing puposes you can jump from the positive battery post to the coil and module. Just make sure you disconnect after testing.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #39 by wallen7 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 11:39 am

By doing that it will tell you if your ignition that you added is working. If it works then then you need to check wiring back to ignition switch. If you are showing infinite resistance on the resister wire it tells me that you have an open circuit back to the switch. With a voltmeter it should show voltage and it can vary anywhere fro 6 -12 volts. When Ford built these things the length of the resister wire made
a difference in the voltage reading but when in the circuit with the load on it worked correctly and would read correctly.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #40 by 1984 F150 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 12:05 pm

wallen7 wrote:By doing that it will tell you if your ignition that you added is working. If it works then then you need to check wiring back to ignition switch. If you are showing infinite resistance on the resister wire it tells me that you have an open circuit back to the switch. With a voltmeter it should show voltage and it can vary anywhere fro 6 -12 volts. When Ford built these things the length of the resister wire made
a difference in the voltage reading but when in the circuit with the load on it worked correctly and would read correctly.


I performed a coil supply voltage (in run) test the other day it showed 7 volts. I just tried running a jumper from the positive post to the batt terminal on the coil, does nothing but crank. Is there a way I can convert to the old style external ceramic ballast resistor? if so how would I do it?

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #41 by wallen7 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 3:30 pm

Yes you have to cut into the harness from the ignition switch, find the run position wire and trace it back to where the resister wire is spliced. Cut it here and run a new wire to your resister block.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #42 by pmuller9 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 3:53 pm

Do you know if you are getting any spark from the coil?

When you ran a wire from the battery to the coil + everything else gets bypassed and you should have gotten spark as long as the red wire to the ignition module also has 12 volts.

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #43 by wallen7 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 4:10 pm

Do you have the correct coil for electronic ignition? You can test the coil with an ohm meter.

1984 F150
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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #44 by 1984 F150 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 4:49 pm

wallen7 wrote:Do you have the correct coil for electronic ignition? You can test the coil with an ohm meter.


Yes I have a correct Duraspark 2 coil, 3 month old Standard Blue Streak (off another truck project I had)
Primary resistance was 3 ohms, secondary resistance was 9500 ohms

wallen7
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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #45 by wallen7 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 5:15 pm

Are you making a good ground at the distributor> By that I mean is there good contact between the block and distributor, no paint buildup to interfere and is there a ground strap between the block and chassis, also body of truck. Unplug distributor from harness and check for ground on black wire with ohm meter. Check purple and orange leads for plus or minus .5 volts when cranking over the engine. If all that checks ok then I would ohm the orange and purple wires back to the module, also the black. This system is simple enough that you should be able lay the pieces out, hook them together and spin the distributor by hand and get a spark.

1984 F150
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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #46 by 1984 F150 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 5:33 pm

wallen7 wrote:Are you making a good ground at the distributor> By that I mean is there good contact between the block and distributor, no paint buildup to interfere and is there a ground strap between the block and chassis, also body of truck. Unplug distributor from harness and check for ground on black wire with ohm meter. Check purple and orange leads for plus or minus .5 volts when cranking over the engine. If all that checks ok then I would ohm the orange and purple wires back to the module, also the black. This system is simple enough that you should be able lay the pieces out, hook them together and spin the distributor by hand and get a spark.


Yes it was grounded properly. After I did the conversion I drove it briefly, it ran smooth, but an absolutely rough idle. About 2 weeks ago while driving I could not get over 5 mph out of it, when I tried pressing on the gas it would violently shake the whole truck.
Also No vacuum leaks

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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #47 by wallen7 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 5:47 pm

Do you have the I terminal hooked up on the solenoid if so I would disconnect and try it.

1984 F150
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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #48 by 1984 F150 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 6:07 pm

wallen7 wrote:Do you have the I terminal hooked up on the solenoid if so I would disconnect and try it.


Wasn't anything hooked up to the I terminal on my truck
What color, is the resistor wire, so I know what to look for?

wallen7
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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #49 by wallen7 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 7:03 pm

Before you get into that lets take 2 jumpers from the positive on the battery 1 to the bat side of the coil and the other to the red wire on the module. Disconnect the module plug that fastens to the vehicle harness, the 2 wire connector and the coil connector if you can. That should isolate the ignition to itself and if everything is right you should have spark and it will run.

1984 F150
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Re: 1984 300 won't run

Post #50 by 1984 F150 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 7:40 pm

wallen7 wrote:Before you get into that lets take 2 jumpers from the positive on the battery 1 to the bat side of the coil and the other to the red wire on the module. Disconnect the module plug that fastens to the vehicle harness, the 2 wire connector and the coil connector if you can. That should isolate the ignition to itself and if everything is right you should have spark and it will run.


So to make sure I read right, run a jumper from positive battery post, to batt post on coil. disconnect 2 wire plug at module, and coil connector, Now, does the other jumper go from the red wire at the harness, to the tach terminal on the coil?

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