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Looking for input on a mild build 300 daily driver F250 4WD

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Looking for input on a mild build 300 daily driver F250 4WD

Post #1 by guitarsnracecars » Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:42 pm

Measure Twice... Cut once

Hello and Thank's for visiting this post. I'm in the planning stages for a 300 budget build and looking for input. I'll share some broad and general information here and then I'm looking to focus on the 300 build. With the broad and general information it will certainly pose opportunity for opinion and off topic discussions but my purpose in providing broad information is to put it all out there in the beginning in case it raises a critical point.

Here is my starting grid, my preference is 80 - 86 F250 4WD, 300-6 Manual transmission, while there may be more optimal combinations this is what I enjoy driving. I have an 86 F250 XLT Lariat 2WD 6.9 C6 with AC that is pretty clean and straight. 6.9 is removed and disassembled. My thought is to find and install a Borg Warner T19 4spd as I like the 4.02:1 first gear and the close ratio gearing to help stay, or climb, back up into the powerband of the 300 when pulling a loaded car trailer. I do have a complete 84 F250 4WD, 6.9 C6 donor from which I will scavange the front drive train and transfer case. Again, I'm hoping this info does not serve to take our focus away from the 300 build but there it is. Stage one is the 300 build, stage two is installing the 300, transfer, and T19 at which point it will be road ready, front drive train conversion will come later. I did aquire a Clifford 4BBL intake that I would like to, (but don't have to), use and I'm initially thinking carbed and simple in regards to minimal or no electronics. I have no ambitions for high rpm and race motor but rather a healthy, fun to drive to the car shows truck motor.

Now to the topic, 300 build.
This will be a weekend driver, trailer puller, cruiser, pretty painted car show truck that I'm thinking should be happy and mean on 91 octane. I currently have two stock, running 300's at my disposal, the first is in an 84 F250, the second is in an 85 F150 and both are believed to be original equipment. Everything I'm reading says there's ample opportunity to guess on the build and get it wrong, I'm thinking somebody out there has already invented this wheel and been happy with the finished build. Drivability, throttle response, improved mpg, and uphill pulling capacity are my first concerns, a choppy hot rod sound would be fun but I'm thinking that needs to be secondary. I think what I'm lookin for is a complete suggested build sheet to start the discussion and let the Good, Better, Best, Why, Why Not discussion flow from there.


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Re: Looking for input on a mild build 300 daily driver F250 4WD

Post #2 by pmuller9 » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:53 pm

How much of this engine build are you going to do yourself?
Last edited by pmuller9 on Thu Jun 06, 2019 10:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Looking for input on a mild build 300 daily driver F250 4WD

Post #3 by jason832 » Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:29 pm

Finding a 4wd t19 with 4:1 first will be nearly impossible. I have ever only seen evidence of one t19 4wd and I think they were offered with 3 different gearing options depending on year. Lots of 2wd ones out there.

The Clifford intake will work good. Right now my 300 with a comp 268 cam and headers, I have the water heat passage disconnected and a 160 thermostat. This engine is on a lifted 4wd 35" tires and 3.08 gears (1800rpm at 62mph). The engine pulls fantastic down to 1000 rpm in high gear, so a Clifford intake will be fine for you.

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Re: Looking for input on a mild build 300 daily driver F250 4WD

Post #4 by pmuller9 » Thu Jun 06, 2019 10:45 pm

The 1984 head has stud mount rockers while the 1985 head has pedestal mount rockers.
The “84 head will need to have the studs pulled and drilled and tapped for screw in studs.
The “85 head can be drilled and tapped for screw in studs also but would need pushrod guide plates.
The Scorpion 1059 1.73 ratio roller rockers can be used instead as a bolt on option on the "85 head without converting to screw in studs.

In both cases it is recommended to use larger valves.
SI Valves carries the stock 4.810” length 1.94” diameter intake and 1.60” exhaust valves.
Bowl blending after valve installation is recommended and some additional porting can be done.

There are only two pistons that will give you a reasonable compression ratio both having 22cc "D" dishes.
If you machine the block so the pistons are at zero deck clearance the static compression ratio will be about 8.8 using either one of the heads you have.
That will work with the Comp 268 cam that was mentioned in the previous post and will still work with 87 to 89 octane pump gas.
If you want a higher compression ratio so you can use the one of the 220 degree .050" duration cams like the Schneider 140H then you will need a custom piston or bush the small end of the connecting rods down to .912" so you can use one of the 351 V8 pistons.

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