Clifford divider with stock log and turbo

Does anyone use the Clifford divider with stock log manifold and a turbo?

Since the log is all the same pressure (Generally twice the psi than of the intake), I don't see it helping much.

With headers, VERY much so........but with a turbo?

Linc's 200,

Welcome to the forum. I have a port divider on my turbo 200 on an Ak Miller modified stock exhaust manifold. Basically, a stock manifold shortened and a T4 flange welded on with nickel rod. I feel the gain in using a port divider is mostly isolating the exhaust heat from the intake manifold and not really a flow issue with a stock manifold. I am currently working on a new engine that will have individual tubes to a collector that I feel should help performance by isolating the exhaust pulses causing reversion in adjacent cylinders. This is for an extreme turbo 200.

drag-200stang":16djnodd said:

This is for an extreme turbo 200.

Click to expand...

I would be very interested in you current engine combo and its performance, so I can compare notes with mine.

What are your plans for the extreme combo? What are your HP goals?


Thanks - - -

Linc's 200,

For some insight to my old combo see my posts on the following:

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13469&highlight=

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19981&highlight=

The new combo is not really that extreme - just more than most 200 drivers are used to. The short block will contain dished, forged pistons, aluminum rods, stock cast crank, Racer Brown 287 deg. - .500 lift solid lifter cam. Same cylinder head as before with 60 lb at 43.5 psi injectors direct bored close the valve cover ridge. Undecided at this point on fuel and timing control either by SDS or XFI by Fast. Some have used carbs with great success but I want to try a new toy. Intercooler will be water to air like my old setup but longer, direct mounted with 3 inlets like a tripower carb setup. Turbo manifold will be tubular with a Turbonetics ballbearing T66 with a .81 tang P-trim and a tial 38mm wastegate. When I bought the turbo, more-is-better got the best of me. I'm hoping it will be OK for the 1/4 mile. Too large for street or 1/8 mile. I've got a lot of work to do to get the car out. I'm looking to get 600hp and into the 8's... we'll see???

What is your setup/plans?
Jim

drag-200stang":2x0l5wuv said:

What is your setup/plans?

Click to expand...

Hi Jim,

While between two different 351W combos for my '84, I began to ponder all of the 200 sixes I had laying around. It seems every time I bought an early 80's Fox for parts, it had a super-good running 200 in it.

I had gathered three good ones, and I figured since a 200 that has been blown to bits is worth the same as a 200 in running condition at the scrap yard, I decided to unritualisticly sacrifice each engine to the drag racing gods with various combos of nitrous and boost.

Nitrous injection has been so over done, and I was completely familiar with it, so I decided to find a new femme to bed down. I had never built a blow through carbed turbo engine, so the pile of 200's destinys had been sealed - - experiment upon the poor beasts until nothing but scrap metal remains.

I came across the "Hot rod turbo selection" article, and it suggested a TO4B with S-3 trim compressor for a 10 psi 200-250.

the chart:
http://hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/1 ... o_15_z.jpg

the article:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... ndex1.html

I just went with the suggestions for the article. My turbine housing is O-trim, .68 A/R tangential.


Right now, I have a stock model 1946 Holley 1-bbl modded for blow though, mounted in stock location, and a stock 1972 Maverick exhaust manifold modified to to mount the TO4B. I had a good intercooler, so I decided to start out with it right off the bat.

I plan to push the engine as hard as it can go with the turbo alone, and then add nitrous to the boost until something fails. I'll fix what fails, and keep pushing the levels higher until something gives way for good - - - - - which,


while on the subject, at what HP levels did your stock rods bend??

I guess the experiment will be over when all 18 rods have been bent (well, at least down to the last six) I don't know where the cast pistons will fail at, but forged pistons are very easy to find for these things, so I plan to built at least one engine up with forged pistons adter finding out where the cast ones quit.

But, after buying the S-3 trim TO4B, I think I wll need a much bigger compressor to find out how much boost is going to occur. Will (Inda10's) wife Kelly has a 58 mm compressor on their low 12 second falcon. I am eventually hoping for similar performance from the 200, even with a 50 cube handicap.

Linc's,

Sorry for not replying sooner - trying to spend more time in the garage and less on the net. Never tried lower hp levels just went straight to the drag strip with the original set up. Had ignition and boost control problems. On the first run boost went to 26 lbs because of too small of a turbine housing and waste gate. Also the ignition was randomly firing because of an issue with the magnetic pickup wires being too close to the electric water pump. I learned the hard way. So I'm not exactly sure at what hp they will bend - it's more of a tune up issue. But anybody hot rodding a turbo engine will have a screw-up sometime. I understand that some of the late model engines had cast rods - I'm sure somebody on here knows what years. I'd stay away from those. At least the forged won't fly out the side of the engine and get oil under your tires.

The 200 rods were down graded to cast iron on some engines. Ford possibily has a part number and a reference, but you'd be best talking to the Ford Falcon Performance guys over that. The stock forged ones are likely to be able to hack 400 hp pretty easily if the right rod bolts are used.

When Ford turboed the 2003 4.0 dohc six, all they did was add under piston oiling to cool the piston, and help ensure the gudgeon pin didn't gall. Pinto engines have had under piston oiling since 1970, so Ford can certainly benifit from this mod. It's just a case of adding a blobb of expoxy at the same place as the Pinto rod, and drilling the 1.5 mm hole, and there you go.


Ford little Four cylinder OHC rods are the cheapest improvements in my opinion. They are forged, and even factory ones can hack the ardour of a Baja racer having many more hp per cylinder, at twice the revs we would ever ask.

The Pinto 2.0 rods and Pinto 2.3's are 5.0 and 5.2" long respectively. They have under piston oiling, and a similar width. The bearing diameter is smaller on the 2.0, but the pin and bearing is the same on the 2.3.

The stock rods are 4.71".


If you use factory Pinto 2.0 rods, use, from memory, the Subaru 2.5 pistons. Compression height is about 1.285, while all you need is 1.24" tall. The German made Pinto engine has the same 0.945" gudgeon pin as the Japanese engine.


If you use aftermarket 5.0" Pinto rods, they have the smaller Lima 2.3 gudgeon pin, which is 0.912". Alternatively, you can bush the stock German Ppinto rod down from 0.945" to 0,912". This is like all US made small sixes and fours and V8's. With this rod, you can use the ACL 1.163" piston, available from 3.632 to 3.740" in size. This means if you torch the engine, you can run it overbore 60 thou, or sleaved it down to Subaru 2.0 Turbo size, and use a common forged piston.

If you use Pinto 2.3 rods, then use the Argentine 1.04 Ipel forged pistons. They are expensive, but very trim. 1.04 compression height.


It's just a matter of money, and checking out the options which you can afford!

I don't have the budget to afford any exotic piston/rod combos, but I do have several stock engines.

If anyone can give me a definite way to identify the good rods from the bad, I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!!

I forgot to say that the first version, in the car now, is 100% stock. Engine number two will be put together with forged psitons.