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Mod-Log Turbo'd 250 Build

Moderator: Mod Squad

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JGTurbo
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Mod-Log Turbo'd 250 Build

Post #1 by JGTurbo » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:48 am

It's coming together at Karl's machine shop in Klamath Falls. I'll post some more pictures soon.
Last edited by JGTurbo on Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #2 by JGTurbo » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:50 am

Maybe these pictures will show up...

Image Image Image
Last edited by JGTurbo on Sun Jun 09, 2013 3:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #3 by Patrick66 » Fri Nov 07, 2008 1:03 pm

looks like a fun project. have you started on the manifolds yet?

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Post #4 by JGTurbo » Fri Nov 07, 2008 2:28 pm

Yeah, the manifold is fabricated. It just needs to be flattened and coated. I'm on my way to the machine shop right now to do some more work on it. I will try to get some more recent pictures up, as well as numbers from the flowbench. (I did a little flowbench testing the other day, and the numbers are looking really good!)

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Post #5 by JGTurbo » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:18 pm

Here are some specs:

- Late 70's 250 block, crank, and head
- Forged 250 rods
- .030 Forged pistons (old TRW's I think, but they were new in box)
- SpeedPro rings
- Custom grind from Comp (mild duration, aggressive lobes, turbo LSA)
- Custom machined log head (flow chart coming soon)
- Fabricated intake and exhaust manifolds
- Crower single springs
- 1.80" intake, 1.5" exhaust stainless valves
- Garrett T3/T4 Hybrid
- Holley 350 2 barrel blow through
- Front mount intercooler
-
- Hoping for over 300hp and LOTS of Torque!
Last edited by JGTurbo on Fri Nov 07, 2008 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #6 by Anlushac11 » Fri Nov 07, 2008 5:05 pm

Did you mill head and exhaust pads so they are vertical or is whole face on same plane as exhaust port flanges?

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Post #7 by JGTurbo » Fri Nov 07, 2008 7:37 pm

It is milled off perpendicular to the deck.
The flow is at 28" H2O.
Pardon the welds... They will get cleaned up before it is coated.

Image Image Image Image Image Image Image
Last edited by JGTurbo on Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #8 by tjnavyblue » Fri Nov 07, 2008 9:21 pm

This is looking amazing. That graph is gorgeous - what was the original exhaust CFM for a stock head?

The intake valves are actually 1.80"... which might be helping our flow numbers a little. They are so shrouded, but such is life with that combustion chamber.

Nice work dude.

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Post #9 by JGTurbo » Fri Nov 07, 2008 9:49 pm

Thanks, I'll update that post. I really couldn't remember what sizes you ordered. Yeah, the head flow kind of surprised me. Quite an improvement from the stock intake (119cfm@.400) and exhaust (98cfm@.400). It matches the aluminum head for flow up to .300 on the intake. The exhaust actually out-flows than the aluminum head up to .300. Probably because the ports ended up being a lot shorter. I'm guessing the aluminum head does better than ours at .400 and over because of the reduced shrouding at higher lifts.

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Post #10 by tjnavyblue » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:03 am

Did you mention it flowed 165 cfm on the intake side - or was 160 the average?

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Post #11 by BENJENBROOKS » Sat Nov 08, 2008 12:16 pm

Tyler, Jake,

That thing looks like it is coming together well, can't wait to see it run...

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Post #12 by JGTurbo » Mon Nov 10, 2008 12:54 am

The test I ran the next day was more accurate I think and it showed right about 160 cfm. I didn't bother testing it at .500" because our cam never lifts the valves that high. I think the flow at .400" and below is more important anyway.

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Post #13 by Asa » Mon Nov 10, 2008 1:43 am

pics were too big, so i changed them to thumbnails, if you want to see big ones please click them!
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Post #14 by yodabiri » Mon Nov 10, 2008 7:27 pm

That looks awesome! What kind of pipe did you use for the runners?
65 mustang coupe with a 250 (DUI) and a t5 with a 7.25 rear end (soon to be 8.8 ).

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Post #15 by JGTurbo » Tue Nov 11, 2008 2:27 am

Thanks for shrinking those pics.
The runners are just mild steel mandrel bends from summit. The exhaust manifold is square tubing that we formed a taper out of. The flange was supposedly hardened armor plating from some sort of battleship (never know what you'll find laying around the shop at OIT).
The head is now torqued down and the bolt holes in the manifold are relieved (so the bolt heads clear the welds). Tomorrow I think I'll cut the bolts (all 32 of them!) to length. After that, the manifold will just need to be coated and mounted!
I'm planning on building a support to go from the turbo flange to the block. Turbos are pretty heavy and I don't want to put any unnecessary stress on the manifold bolts.

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Post #16 by JGTurbo » Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:14 am

Well, the intake manifold is flattened and painted. I forgot my camera today, so no new pictures to post. All the intake bolts are cut to length. I think I'll wait to mount the intake manifold until the rest of the engine is assembled and painted.

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Post #17 by JGTurbo » Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:25 pm

The intake is on! I decided to put it on today even though the rest of the engine isn't together yet.

I'm not sure how to make the images any smaller. Asa, maybe you could shrink them again?
Thanks


Image Image Image Image Image Image
Last edited by JGTurbo on Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #18 by tjnavyblue » Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:46 pm

Wow.

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Post #19 by Asa » Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:50 pm

i'll start workin on it
in the meantime, check this thread, i've got a how to in there
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54283
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Post #20 by TCIC 300ci superbeast » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:08 pm

itd be cool if it resized the pic as you added them but o well
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Post #21 by JGTurbo » Mon Nov 17, 2008 8:34 pm

Here's some pictures of the wastegate modification. The turbo is off a diesel engine and it came with a .75" diameter wastegate. This seemed quite small for our application, so I bored it to 1.25" and am using a 1.5" exhaust valve for the new flap. Should flow plenty now!

Stock wastegate flap compared to 1.5" valve:
Image

Stock wastegate in housing:
Image

New wastegate port w/o valve:
Image

Valve sitting in newly machined wastegate port:
Image
Last edited by JGTurbo on Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #22 by JGTurbo » Tue Dec 09, 2008 10:07 pm

Here's some pics of the wastegate. Pretty much done. We're waiting on a timing set for the motor. It should be in next week.

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Post #23 by JGTurbo » Tue Dec 09, 2008 10:22 pm

Image

Image

Image
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Post #24 by JGTurbo » Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:47 pm

A Stock 250 intake valve closes everything up nicely. I machined it within
1-2 thousandths of the opening in the housing. I then heated up the housing
and dropped the valve head in place. Once everything cooled it was stuck in
there pretty good. The punch marks are just added safety.

Image
Last edited by JGTurbo on Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #25 by 70 grabber » Tue Dec 16, 2008 12:03 pm

:twisted: wow that things going to fly! great work man. so are you going to use this turbo or were you thinking of getting the holset HE351vgt?

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Post #26 by JGTurbo » Wed Dec 17, 2008 5:18 am

I think we're sticking with this turbo for the 250. We already have the T3 flange welded onto the manifold. The HE351VGT has a different flange. I did pick up a pair of the HE351VGTs on eBay. Just got them tonight. See if I can get some pictures up.

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Post #27 by pikesan » Wed Dec 17, 2008 5:48 pm

That's an awesome project! I'm gonna follow it for inspiration...
See all my cars here: Pikesan's Garage What's in your garage?

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Post #28 by tjnavyblue » Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:49 pm

Hey guys... Jake and I ran into a little problem reassembling this thing. It appears that during disassembly the "thrust plate" that resides under the larger timing gear was misplaced. I can't seem to locate this piece at any parts house - does anyone have one laying around they'd be willing to sell/give us?

Apparently my absentmindedness knows no bounds when it comes to misplacing stuff.

Thanks for looking.

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Post #29 by BENJENBROOKS » Mon Jan 05, 2009 3:16 pm

bummer... I shouldn't have gotten rid of that extra engine... but didn't want to haul it to the new house... sorry, If you need me to run to pick-a-part, I can. I remember seeing a few complete sb sixes last time... will also check with Jenni's dad, he might have one...
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Post #30 by JGTurbo » Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:42 pm

I just ordered one tonight from NAPA. The part was $9.18. I figured that would be easier than digging through the snow for parts. Supposed to be here in two days.

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Post #31 by JGTurbo » Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:50 am

Here are the latest pictures:

I think we will have to extend the wastegate rod and relocate the actuator to be under the compressor. As it is now, it looks like it will hit the fenderwell.

Image Image Image

Image Image Image

Image Image Image
Last edited by JGTurbo on Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #32 by Anlushac11 » Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:44 am

What is this going in?

Even with the late model Fox bodies fairly cavernous engine bays I would be worried about passenger side strut tower clearance.

But it does look really sexy.

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Post #33 by JGTurbo » Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:11 am

It is going in a '68 Mustang. We measured the distance between the valve cover and shock tower to make sure the intake and carburetor would clear. If I remember correctly, we have about 3 inches to spare there. The trick is tucking the turbo in front of the fenderwell without running into the radiator.

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Post #34 by tjnavyblue » Sun Jan 18, 2009 4:37 pm

I think we're good. I was just looking at this in the engine bay when I was down last weekend and with the battery relocated to the trunk the strut tower falls away very quickly and leaves room almost exactly where that actuator is. We'll have to see.

And the next thing I'm buying after this thing is in is an aluminum valve cover. It just needs one. That thing is going to look so sick in the engine bay.

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Post #35 by Does10s » Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:15 am

JGTurbo,
Looks good to me! It should clear the shock tower just fine!

I have to tell you.....I don't think I've ever seen a motor painted white before! Kinda cool!

Later,
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Post #36 by JackFish » Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:12 am

Does10s wrote:JGTurbo,
I have to tell you.....I don't think I've ever seen a motor painted white before! Kinda cool!

Later,
Will

It makes sense, if paint has any effect whatsoever on engine temps, white would be the best color to choose. Black, and dark colours would be the worst.
I like it. 8)
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Post #37 by LaGrasta » Mon Jan 19, 2009 11:21 am

I restored a 1979 Triumph Spitfire back in the late 80s and painted the engine white to match the body; looked spectacular. I used to clean it with oven cleaner.
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Post #38 by addo » Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:18 pm

Gizmo painted her car's motor white.

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Post #39 by JGTurbo » Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:42 pm

This is tjnavyblue's engine, so he gets all the credit for the white paint. I have to admit I was skeptical after the intake was painted. But now that the rest of the engine matches, I think it looks great!

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Post #40 by yodabiri » Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:16 pm

That motor and turbo look awesome! One thing kinda jumps out at me though. What about the alternator? Do you think that there would be any interference, otherwise the design is awesome and the white paint is very cool.
65 mustang coupe with a 250 (DUI) and a t5 with a 7.25 rear end (soon to be 8.8 ).

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Post #41 by JGTurbo » Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:31 pm

I think the alternator is on the other side of the engine. If it's not, we'll put it over there.

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Post #42 by yodabiri » Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:41 pm

Ok, then that should make for an awesome setup!
65 mustang coupe with a 250 (DUI) and a t5 with a 7.25 rear end (soon to be 8.8 ).

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Post #43 by InlineUK » Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:32 pm

Cool looking motor there 8)
I like the white paint too.

Looks like the alternator will interfere with the turbo. I have the same problem with my motor so I have used an old PS bracket and modified it to fit the alternator. LIke this:

Image

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Post #44 by tjnavyblue » Thu Feb 26, 2009 5:09 pm

Yeah, thats the idea. We'll be putting the alternator in there somewhere - upper drivers side. We may be looking for a bracket thats a bit more understated though.

There are no accessories on this car, as we're doing a sort of 'minimalist pro-touring' build. Trying to stay under 3,000 lbs. and preferably somewhere near 2,750. MS, MB and no AC. Already have discs up front (Granada), 8 inch rear. 5 speed. I can post suspension specs later. Handling will be paramount, stance will be fairly low with 17 inch wheels (thinking TSW Nogaro) - 18's almost always look too big on early mustangs.

We're going to shoot for a daily driven 10 lbs. of boost on 92 octane, with 28x12x2.5 intercooler and MSD BTM. Hoping to do 12 sec 1/4's in street trim. 11.99 would sure be cool.

Just to give you an idea on the rest of the car build, it is now painted (2007 Volvo Titanium Grey Pearl) and ready for the engine and trans. Interior will be white like the engine. We're shooting for magazine status with a total investment of less than $10,000.

Getting there! - much thanks to Jake Good (engine) and Dan Doud (paint).

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Post #45 by tjnavyblue » Thu Feb 26, 2009 5:19 pm

The motor originally was out of a Granada like this. You can see the alternator peeking up from the drivers side there...

http://www.theclassiccarshow.com/upload ... es/951.jpg

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Post #46 by Ronbo » Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:17 am

Gonna swap out that valve cover, right? I mean they ARE worth around 5 rwhp 8)

White = Easy to spot oil leaks, great thinking! I painted mine gold, it's the gold nugget to make the beast run (wife says its because I was in the Army and green and gold, well...). We have to do everything we can to get around the V8 hype.

Quick question, on that awesome-ly constructed intake there is a tang welded in, return spring? It just adds to the well thought out process.

Ever sit in the garage, looking at your car, wondering what to do next?

We are sick, sick peoples!! 8)
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Post #47 by tjnavyblue » Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:58 am

Yep! Good eye!

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trying to follow this one

Post #48 by pikesan » Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:12 pm

I'm trying to follow this build, but the pics aren't showing up...

Please contact me for a feature story on the build at MyRideisMe.com. I love crazy builds on a budget.
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Post #49 by tjnavyblue » Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:42 pm

And yeah... we definitely need an alloy valve cover. Mike's look pretty nice. Was thinking of just buying the raw one he has and polishing it myself. Did Offy make a valve cover for these back in the day?

Thanks for interest everyone - got your PM pikesan.

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Post #50 by Anlushac11 » Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:40 pm

Yes Offy and Im pretty sure Edelbrock both used to make a aluminum valve cover.

The Edelbrock and Offy are both very rare but I have seen them on Ebay before.

But for the cost involved just buy Mike's at Classic Inlines. I have one and its a quality part with clearance for roller rockers.
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