Turbocharging the 200

coupedave

New member
Hey everybody,
Ive done tons of reading on here but this is my first post. I know there are a bunch of topics on here about turbochargers and I have spent a lot of time reading them but I figured before I spend a bunch of money I mind as well see if anyone has time to find some flaws in my foolish plans.

I have a 200 that is in the process of being completely rebuilt and bored out .060 over (more than i wanted but the machine shop said it had to be done), so far all I am missing is a cam, header, and carb but thanks to this forum I've come across the possibilities of adding a turbocharger. My original plan was classic inlines dual out header but if I'm going to be putting in a turbo would it be all the same just to leave the stock exhaust manifold because the dual out header would have to be funneled into a single port anyway for the turbo? Also should i scrap this turbo dream since my engine is now bored .060 over, will there be structural integrity concerns (I'm considering 12 psi or less)?

Any advice, comments, or even criticism is greatly appreciated!
thanks,
Dave
 
I know nothing about turbos but have been interested in them lately. What are you putting this in?
 
Hey well that makes two of us!
What am i putting the turbo in or what am i putting the engine in?
- The turbo (if i can figure everything out) will be put in a '67 200 ci with a few modifications such as the bore previously stated, a cam (yet to be selected), double barrel carb, and a DUI distributor.

-The car it will be put in is a '68 mustang coupe with a 3 speed manual trans which hopefully one day will be upgraded to a 5 speed and a sturdier rear end so that i can actually turn the boost up a bit once my bank account recovers (yes sadly this is being done in pieces and probably the wrong order but hey I'm inpatient and want something fun to drive now!)
 
coupedave":1xoh55s8 said:
I'm inpatient and want something fun to drive now!
:LOL: I know exactly the way you feel,

From my personal experience... I went backwards with A/C-Carb-Tranny-Engine-Exhaust-Ignition-Suspension-Steering-Brakes-Elec Fan

With a turbo you have to consider how your going to stop, I really couldv'e lost my 65 due to ignorance in some important areas, like brakes and steering. just by replacing with stock compenants I gained alot of respect to these simple things, If I did it again I'd deffently go in a "safety first" order, I REALLY enjoy my disk brakes (which when said and done was one of the cheapest upgrades I did)

now that I put the warnign voice out I feel better for helping with your goal...
the turbo is no doubt really fun, I've ridden in a dual v6 turbo car that was a blast. but with a turbo you create ALOT of heat, and too much is deadly, Just a few facts I see with your current setup, 12 psi and .060 over bore... why not a super? the heat will be considerably less than a turbo and you get insta boost instead of a spool, and you get a nice dual from CI ;) ... just food for thought...

IMO I think .060 is too much, but I don't know much about boost applications to help any further...

Good Luck
MPG
 
Best advice to give you is talk to Does10s' they have been running a turbo on a 250 for awhile now and have found and learned alot.
 
@ 82F100
- thanks, Does10's was a big help!

@MPGmustang
-Yes thank you for the concern and the input, I have been looking into the steering and brakes too, the steering is my biggest concern of the two as i have noticed that above 50 mph when on narrow country roads you really start to notice how much play there is in the steering wheel. As for the brakes i haven't really gotten into a situation where I've needed to really "test them out" but they will still be upgraded at some point
 
coupedave":xwms191w said:
the steering is my biggest concern of the two as i have noticed that above 50 mph when on narrow country roads you really start to notice how much play there is in the steering wheel.

Add in as much caster as you can, it will make a big difference at speed. Factory alignment specs were meant for bias ply tires; search the site and you'll find a much better set of specs. (I know that I once had a post here about it.)
 
:) Going is nice.Woahing is even better.Get your brakes,steering AND suspension fixed FIRST,lest you wind up having to be picked up with a stick a spoon and a Hoover.
Good luck.Have fun.
Leo
 
Yeah I should probably put the turbo money towards those areas of the car first. Which works out though, as I am still learning a lot about turbocharging, doing the installation and how everything is affected by the turbo so by the time the coupe is ready safetywise for the turbo I'll be ready to do the job right. And hey who knows maybe turbos will be cheaper (wishful thinking) by then or classic inlines will start selling a that turbo kit that is briefly described in their research page!
Thanks for all the advice and for anyone who is in the same place as me, I learned some valuable stuff from Does10's which i will copy over to this post
 
All the following is from Does10s

-in regards to the engine being bored out .060"

.060" over isn't all that bad, not prefered, but doable.
The one issue that we've had with all of our .040" blocks has been cyl. wall strength. We've grenaded two blocks due to this. Well the main cause is that the motor went lean, and the cyl. walls were the first breaking point.
I wouldn't sweat it to much. Normal head gaskets will give way long before the cyl. walls. We're using a copper gasket with O-rings in the block. We've never blown this type of gasket yet.

Just always use Premium fuel, and pull some timing out under boost, and you should be OK for up to 10lbs. of boost.
"




-and in regards to using the stock exhaust manifold

"The dual out header won't work with a turbo. The turbo needs to sit above the oil pan level so the oil will be able to drain back into the crankcase.
So a factory manifold can be used with a "J-pipe" to mount the turbo or a custom header will have to be fabricated.

If you are able to get enough fuel into each cyl. and you get the timing right, the head gasket and the cyl. walls will last a long time.
If any one of those two has a hick-up.....then you run the risk of a blow head gasket or worse.
That's kinda the nature of a power adder.
Put at least a 1-step colder spark plug in cyl. 2-5. 2-steps colder in 1 & 6. That'll help a bit with the hotter cyl. And gap them to .025".
"


Maybe someone else can find this all just as useful as I did!
 
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