Forced Power

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MPGmustang

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I know it's possible to turbo any engine, safely. but I don't know some of the other things... I'll start with what I do know...

it's easier to turbo with TBI/FI, mostly because you can monitor everything espesially the AF...
to turbo a carb, it's best to get a box..
with 9.3 CR, you want to aim around 8psi boost, giving the option to run a smaller turbo...
you MUST run a waste gate
intercooler is not nessesary with only 8 psi boost, even tho it can be helpful.
any boost requires more gas,
detenation is more dangerous and harmful under boost.

so there are something applied to the above notes... what I want to know is some other random things...
with a turbo, is the idle quality changed?
as I'm running AC, will this create more heat the engine makes? even if I take it easy, I don't see my self boosting while the AC is running, is there a way to keep the waste gate open and then switch it on/off according to the AC status? or even a manual switch
If you were in my shoes and wanted to boost ur i6, would you convert to MS first then boost or box the carb and boost? or boost a boostable 2bbl...

I hope in the end, 200rwhp, I'm @ 136rwhp right now.

this is related to my MORE POWER thread in my sig.

Thanks guys...
Richard
 
This isn't a direct answer to your question, but ...

... I saw a guy from Arizona (like you) who had a '60 Falcon with a 144 i6 and he basically grabbed a small turbo, put a larger carburetor on the car and made a draw-through system. Honestly, he did no other modifications that I can remember.

He didn't have any monitoring equipment (boost gauge or A/F meter) and the car ran fine, making more power than it did when stock.

That said, he was way short of the potential power he could have been making, but he had fun and spent very little money.

So, there are lots of answers to your lots of questions. Maybe someone else wants to jump in?
 
LateApex":akf9kepc said:
That said, he was way short of the potential power he could have been making, but he had fun and spent very little money.
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That's what I hope to accomplish, except I'll have to do some kind of custom work for the header, I have mike's dual exhaust setup and I'd have to either find a good stock manifold, or have one custom made... in the end, I'd probably choose the cheaper/easier route of the stock manfold...
 
I am typing this at work on my P3-900 laptop with keyboard that likes to jump around. I will add to this when I get home to prevent setting laptop on fire in frustration.


MPGmustang":of19gqm1 said:
I know it's possible to turbo any engine, safely. but I don't know some of the other things... I'll start with what I do know...
Click to expand...

Best recommendation...read ALL the stickied posts stuck at top. Wait a hour for brain to return from jello state. Read again.

it's easier to turbo with TBI/FI, mostly because you can monitor everything espesially the AF...
Click to expand...

Either system has things that must be setup to get system to run.

to turbo a carb, it's best to get a box..
Click to expand...
Depends on carb. About 1978 carbs were redesigned to be internally vented to reduce hydrocarbons emmisions. Anything vented out was just run through carb and burned in engine. That means pressure is kept inside as long as carb hat seals and carb has no leaks. Fuel pump or regulator needs to be boost referenced. The carb needs Nitrophyl floats that wont collapse under boost pressure.

Carb boxes were more commonly used in 60's by Shelby and Studebaker and IIRC in early 70's with Gale Banks systems. With externally vented carb any pressure applied inside carb just gets blown out vent.

with 9.3 CR, you want to aim around 8psi boost, giving the option to run a smaller turbo...
Click to expand...
You are limited mostly by the engines resistance to detonation and octane of fuel you run. If you were to run say E85 Ethanol and water injection you could probably run higher.

Run too small a turbo and you build boost at very low rpm and can overspeed turbo. Run too big a turbo and you dont make boost til higher rpms and our inline sixes run out of breathing with log head at about 4500rpm.

you MUST run a waste gate
Click to expand...
Yes. It is only way to regulate boost pressure. A blow off valve on intake side is not a bad idea either.

intercooler is not nessesary with only 8 psi boost, even tho it can be helpful.
Click to expand...
If you are going to expense of turbocharging get a intercooler. They can be had cheap and are very important to cool inlet temperatures which is a factor in detonation.

any boost requires more gas
Click to expand...
Yes. Add more air you need more fuel to maintain air to fuel ratio.
detenation is more dangerous and harmful under boost.
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Detonation is bad irregardless of the cause, it should be avoided at all costs. Detonation can be caused for a number of reasons but adding more air fuel and temperature are factors. Timing, fuel quality, hot spots, load on engine, can all contribute.

so there are something applied to the above notes... what I want to know is some other random things...
with a turbo, is the idle quality changed?
Click to expand...
No. The turbocharger is not technically working then.

as I'm running AC, will this create more heat the engine makes? even if I take it easy, I don't see my self boosting while the AC is running, is there a way to keep the waste gate open and then switch it on/off according to the AC status? or even a manual switch.
Click to expand...

A/C puts a load on engine and as heat is pulled from air it is released into the airstream flowing over the condenser in front of the radiator. All that heat flows back into engine bay so it commonly causes higher underhood temps. A turbocharger stresses engine so it creates heat but only when in use. You can minimize heat in engine bay from turbo with things like having turbine housing, exhaust manifold, and downpipe Jet Hot coated and/or running a turbo blanket.

If you were in my shoes and wanted to boost ur i6, would you convert to MS first then boost or box the carb and boost? or boost a boostable 2bbl...
Click to expand...
If you plan to keep stock log head boost with carb. If you want to get aluminum head EFI and MS.

IMHO the log head is the achilles heel of our engine.
I hope in the end, 200rwhp, I'm @ 136rwhp right now. With a turbo 200 with 8lbs boost
Click to expand...

Im thinking you would be close to about 180-185hp. Port head, bigger valves, turbo friendly cam, and you could probably do it

this is related to my MORE POWER thread in my sig.

Thanks guys...
Richard
Click to expand...
 
Anlushac11":2e3p7o2j said:
Im thinking you would be close to about 180-185hp. Port head, bigger valves, turbo friendly cam, and you could probably do it
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this got me thinking, what is a 'turbo friendly cam'? can my current cam work? (hydralic 264/274 110 .450)
the head work is done, I do have valve guides installed, will they hold up under the boost?
this will be with the log head, so what carb can I go for that's fully closed, I don't need anyhting huge as I want to to atomize properly,
I'm don't mind running 91oct, as it's what I'm running now.
 
MPGmustang":1p0q4cyf said:
Anlushac11":1p0q4cyf said:
Im thinking you would be close to about 180-185hp. Port head, bigger valves, turbo friendly cam, and you could probably do it
Click to expand...


this got me thinking, what is a 'turbo friendly cam'? can my current cam work? (hydralic 264/274 110 .450)
Click to expand...

Typically a turbo cam will have less overlap, shorter duration and higher lift. Due to the sucky flow of the log heads a longer duration actually helps get air in. The log head stops showing any flow improvements at about .425" lift so a .450" lift cam is about all you need on lift.

The cam you have should work.

the head work is done, I do have valve guides installed, will they hold up under the boost?
this will be with the log head, so what carb can I go for that's fully closed, I don't need anyhting huge as I want to to atomize properly,
I'm don't mind running 91oct, as it's what I'm running now.
Click to expand...

Valve guides should be good. I would look for a Autolite or Motorcraft 2bbl carb made in early 80's. You can also use a Holley 2300cfm 2bbl. The Autolites IIRC run about 200-235cfm and have annular discharge which is a plus.

Here is a link to modifying a Holley 4bbl but it works for the 2300 series as well.

http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html
 
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