Thinking about adding nitrous to 200 cid engine

I've never used nitrous on any engine. Thinking of adding 50 - 75hp shot to the 200 cid engine in my Falcon. I want to keep the nitrous hit mild.

The engine was built 2 years ago, fresh build, .030 over cast pistons with dish, head was milled .050. No idea on cc of the chambers. Block deck was cut about .020 , so the piston tops are down in the holes about .005 ..

Probably I need to learn more about nitrous use, parts, current up to date information. Any suggestions on web sites or book that can help me learn about nitrous?

I dont have the budget for a new kit. My plan at this point is to buy a 4 barrel plate for parts and build my own plate for the Holley 2 barrel carb I currently use on OEM log head.

I've never run nitrous but Holley's website seems to have a good tech section on it. Has plumbing, tuning, regulators tech etc. Hope this helps a little.

Many of the "dry" kits that are available are compatable with cast pistons up to around 75 HP boosts. Also keep in mind that most of the HP gains referred to in these kits are for 8 cylinders and not 6, so you might not get the gain you think you are shooting for.

Crosley,
I've used nitrous for years before I found religion and went turbo!

The big thing to remember it to pull timing out when on the bottle. A couple of MSD products can do this for you.
I used a MSD Digital 6 for this.
You'll need a "wet" kit so it'll add fuel too. And enough fuel pump to be able to flow enough when you add 75hp.

Enjoy!
Will

There are many kits available that are safe with cast pistons at the level of gain you are seeking. As Does10's suggested, the tuning is critical and the investment of a timing retard system is very helpful. Most nitrous companies recommend you remove 3°- 4° of timing for every 100 HP of nitrous you add. In my last race engine I was removing 12° of timing from it for the amount of nitrous I was spraying into it(400 HP Fogger), and raced a whole season without even a burned spark plug, so the 3°- 4° degree rule of thumb was pretty accurate for my setup. A lot of guys try to use the same fuel pump to feed the engine and the nitrous system together. Using a separate pump for the engine and maybe an electric pump dedicated to just the nitrous can ensure your not making a singular pump work too hard and give you the fuel supply you need with plenty to spare, especially if you can only get a stock replacement standard volume mechanical fuel pump for these engines.

thanks for the tips.

I know I need to upgrade my electrik fuel pump. I have 3/8 inch steel fuel line now and pressure regulator near carb.

Ignition timing: I run an Acell digital 300+ digital system. I am looking at options and may just replace that system... although I could just pull the timing out of initial setting.

I am thinking of manual control on nitrous , with activation near 3500 RPM mark in 1st gear.

While manual control will obviously work, it won't be consistant.

I used two switches wired in series. One was the "arming switch" in the cockpit, the other was on the throttle linkage up by the carb (or throttle body in my case!).

I had the throttle one set to turn on just before WOT. The arming switch just supplied power to the throttle switch.

Nitrous is easy to work with and very addicting. "If a 75hp shot is fun....I wonder what 250hp is like!"

Personally I just got tired of spending $50 to fill the bottle and only getting about 3 good runs out of it. That was at the 250hp level. It'll last a bit longer at 75hp.
Later,
Will

Will, I would think a 250 shot on this ol 200 cid 6 would dent my hood from the inside as the head tried to lift off. :mrgreen:

Crosley":2twrv4g6 said:

Will, I would think a 250 shot on this ol 200 cid 6 would dent my hood from the inside as the head tried to lift off. :mrgreen:

Click to expand...

LOL...an easy head removal technique! :rolflmao:

:rolflmao: Or some new windows torched through those cast pistons