66sprint6's Boosted Inline still alive and doin well!

Thanks!!! Its alot more subtle than the previous setup for sure. Fun part is, its more subtle looks wise but SHOULD pack more of a punch power wise.

Matt
 
I've been following your build and am really impressed - great job! (y) I may have to copy your front seats - they look good and fit the car well. How much difference in noise is there between using the by-pass and mufflers? Are you planning on putting it on the dyno?
 
Sorry for the lack of updates...4th of July was CRAZY round these parts. Hosted 2 parties with 30+ friends and family on the 2nd and 4th and then was introduced to, offered, thought about it, drove it, thought about it, drove it some more, worked the numbers to make financial sense and FINALLY pulled the trigger on another red Mustang.



Traded the 2013 Focus ST so now Im back down to 1 turbo car. The new GT is a FANTASTIC daily car tho.

Anyways, Ive fired up the 66 a couple times since breaking in the cam but its been so danged hot I havnt had a chance to finish up the couple oddsnends needed to make the car roadworthy enough to start road testing/tweaking. I do plan on getting it on a dyno if time and $$$ allows to 1) get the tune dialed in and 2) see what kinda power she puts down.

67, the difference between the full exhaust out the back and the dump is night and day. It sounds like a smallblock muscle car through the tailpipes. Low, deep, loud but not too loud, typical metallic Flowmaster sound. Open the dump and it sounds like a pissed off tractor with a TON of spool noise. If the turbo wasnt there making itself known it would sound terrible but honestly, because of the turbo it sounds amazing. Its very very very rewarding to open it up and listen to the turbo sing. :eek:

Matt
 
Got it out and drove it around this weekend. Ran like garbage and then she ran outta fuel so I put it away and moved on. Im starting all over with the carb tune so I know itll be a while before I make any major headway.

Matt
 
Been a while since I last posted, but Ive been chasing some rough idle, bad vibration and general rough running issues and FINALLY made a crucial breakthrough last night!  I was beginning to wonder if the flywheel was warped or otherwise causing the vibration so I was thinking about pulling the trans and looking at replacing it.  Would also resolve the chewed up ring gear nuisance at the same time but after bouncing some ideas off some local car guys I decided to keep looking at the motor.  I was pulling plugs while it idled trying to see if I had a dead cylinder but NONE of them made a lick of difference when pulled...not one of them.  It would idle rough, pull the plug wire, no change, put it back, same deal.  .  While letting it cool before moving on I got to thinking about the adjustable rockers and the issue they caused when trying to get it to start initially before break in.  Ive only messed with adjustable rockers on one other car and remember having to adjust them a couple times until I got them happy so off came the valve cover to take a look.  I went thru the adjustment process one cylinder at a time, backed the adjustment bolt off and then snugged it down slowly until it was happy and then added an 1/8 turn per the instructions.  Originally, the adjuster was NEARLY bottomed out, but after doing it again (correctly this time ) the adjuster was more towards the middle of its range.  Did this for the rest, put the cover back on, said a prayer and fired her up.
RUNS LIKE A TOP!!!  Drove it around the area for a bit and she runs better than ever before and thats without tuning the carb!  Smooth, super quiet and strong without boost.  Cant wait to get it dialed in and see what shes like at 15-20psi!  

Anyways, a huge weight has lifted from my shoulders, for the first time since I tore her apart two years ago she is running well enough that I can start the fine tuning process and start attacking small issues and leaks as they appear.  In celebration, and so that this update isnt too wordy and boring, heres a pic of the engine bay in "running shape".



Now I gotta get the fine tuning going and address a couple small issues and leaks before she is ready for the annual Shades of the Past car show in Pigeon Forge TN!

Matt
 
:beer: That's excellent glad to hear your making progress and she's such a beauty with fine detail work! Good luck :nod:
 
Still doin alot of road tuning and sorting of the carb and slowly getting things together. The clutch pedal started getting notchy when trying to slowly let the clutch out like in a parking lot or when trying to finess the car into the garage which is annoying and the brakes are still terrible despite the upgrades. I have some powervalves on the way to help chase down a lean stumble on tip in so while Im waiting I will be bleeding the brakes and making sure the MC rod is adjusted properly and look at the clutch issue as well. I fear that I may NOT have put thread lock or sealer on the flywheel bolts last time I put them in and I might be getting oil on the clutch tho the notchyness happens when the car is off as well so Im not thinking thats the issue at hand. I lubbed the clutch fork, replaced the Z bar pivot bushings and felt washers and made sure my Z bar was adjusted properly (as best as I could) and all seems well there. I did notice that the bushing between the linkage and the pedal itself is gone so I have some on order. If they make it in time I will install them. Anyways, not 100% sure yet that the 66 will be making it to Shades of the Past this coming weekend but I have a week to throw wrenches at it and see what happens. All is not lost this year tho if I fail to get it ready as I have the 2015 GT to ease the pain for the trip. ANYways, I did take it out this Sat and clean it up, change the oil and a few other things and having it out of the garage feels nice. She looks alot better in the sun and I started really falling for the look of the new front end. MUCH cleaner and more complete than the previous setup for sure.





If she wasnt so danged good looking (and my first car) I swear Ide burn it to the ground some days BUT I cant so Ill keep tossing money and time and more money at it until it acts right and Im finally able to enjoy driving it again!

Matt
 
Is your clutch a higher presure performance type? If so You could also convert those those Z bar and clutch pedal bushings over to ball bearings to make it much more smoother, though if all the bushings and pivots are all in good shape it should work nice. Good luck :nod:
 
I will be pulling the mess out after the nice weather goes away this year and converting it all over to sealed bearings to make it smoother. Would also like to look at cable or more likely hydraulic setup as well to try and make the pedal throw softer (my left knee and thigh HATE cruise traffic with this thing lol). I also know that the T5 needs some freshening up and I will be picking up a new flywheel and ring-gear as well. For now I just gotta get it goin enough to get it to Shades of the Past and back and Ill tear it apart again after!

Matt
 
Shades was fun this year.  Once again there was a giant hole (especially since the 67 didnt make it out due to poor planning by my buddy but thats another story) but there was also something new...a lack of stress.  I had almost as much fun cruising around and even more fun driving the backroads, exploring and driving out and home.  Made me really think that its time to make the 66 easier, more fun and more reliable to drive and lit a small fire under me to get at it.  Usually after Shades of the Past I put the car in the garage, say thanks to God for the safe trip home and then I take a break from it for a while.  Not this year.



Pretty sure I already found the issue with the clutch pedal action.  When I pulled the trans a strange metal ring fell out (picture below) and the new throwout bearing came out in pieces.  



I put the bearing back in and moved the fork with my hand and it was very notchy and nowhere near smooth.  The steel bearing retainer on the input shaft feels smooth to the touch and I dont see or feel any groves or ridges but the throwout and the retainer dont like each other at all.  Im gonna order another retainer (cheap enough) and some shims to try and take some minor input shaft play out and Ill look at the bearings while Im at it.  Im gonna pull the clutch and flywheel out tonight or tomorrow and then start fresh from there.

Matt
 
Clutch and flywheel are out and look ok for being 10 years old.  Ring gear is all sorts of goobered up but we already knew that.  The pilot bearing looks good but they are so cheap Ill toss another in just in case.  







Was debating on having the ring gear removed and replaced (not sure who could do it) but Ive had this used flywheel resurfaced at least 4 times personally and it would need it again so Im thinking by the time I pay for all that I could just grab a new one (especially now that Ive found a new one).  Ill start ordering parts slowly but surely here soon.

Matt
 
Replacing a ring gear is actually easy to do. First remove the old one using a punch and hammer, just knock it off, then put new ring gear in your oven at 400F for a while, and it will just drop in place, let cool, and it will shrink to fit tight.

66Sprint6":2prgr13y said:
Clutch and flywheel are out and look ok for being 10 years old.  Ring gear is all sorts of goobered up but we already knew that.  The pilot bearing looks good but they are so cheap Ill toss another in just in case.  







Was debating on having the ring gear removed and replaced (not sure who could do it) but Ive had this used flywheel resurfaced at least 4 times personally and it would need it again so Im thinking by the time I pay for all that I could just grab a new one (especially now that Ive found a new one).  Ill start ordering parts slowly but surely here soon.

Matt
Click to expand...
 
X2 yes the ring gear is not too hard of a job to replace and you could also just flip the gear over and or clock the gear in a different position (say 180 degrees) from that worn spot. IE this is because the engine has a tendency to stop in the same location so that's why the wear is there. Good luck :nod:
 
If you are only concerned about the gear I would tune it up with a grinder and run it ,but I am cheap that way. But I would spend the the saving on a rev limiter, those oem parts scare me.
 
Yeah Ive cleaned up the teeth once before and got away with it but the noise this sucker makes when starting was worse than ever before. I was going to get one and do it myself but the shop that did my clutch and resurfaced the flywheel did it for cheaper than I coulda bought it for :shock:

I have a limiter in the MSD box just in case. Cant remember what it is at the moment but its not much after she falls on her face, or did on the old setup.

Quite a few local car guys referred me to Tennessee Clutch in Nashville TN so I headed out that way this weekend to see what they could do for me.



New ring gear, resurfaced flywheel, dual friction clutch disc, checked and resurfaced pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and tossed in a T-shirt just because! All together I walked out the door paying less than I would for a new clutch alone. Awesome little place, extremely helpful guys and very hospitable.  I thought it would take em a couple days but they asked if I was willing to wait on it and I said SURE!  Jumped right on it and got it all done quick while I watched The World Is Not Enough lol.  They said to try this dual friction setup and if it doesnt work, pull it out and they will swap the organic side out and try that.  They said if I decided to turn the power up even more down the road (prolly wont be much room for me to do that but still) they could build a 6 puck disc.  I will be sending business out their way from here on for sure.





Got the flywheel in...then took it back out because I forgot the block plate.  Then put it back in correctly.  I HAD sealed the flywheel bolts when I installed it on the fresh motor so my suspicions that I hadnt were unfounded...well not unfounded (me and mistakes go hand in hand) but I at least feel better than I had done it right previously.  



Cleaned the surface with some brake cleaner as well as the pressure plate surface, made sure the organic side was to the pressure plate and then intalled the clutch.



Im quite sore this morning from all this.  Mostly from trying to hammer out the old pilot bearing.  I used the newspaper trick and it took forever but finally it came out and the new one was installed.  I also took the bellhousing off the trans and checked to make sure the adapter was still tight, which it was, and that everything else was happy.  The steel bearing retainer has no gouges or wear that you can feel, its very smooth and the input shaft has no in or out play so Im gonna leave it.  I noticed that the new throwout bearing slides on it like glass where the old one hangs up and is choppy feeling.  That was the feeling I was having in the pedal so Im calling that the problem all along.  Im ordering a new clutch fork as the clip holding it into the bell appears to have snapped at some point in time and was welded back up and poorly at that.  Wasnt me, I may have got it that way not sure.  Im also gonna start ordering the hydraulic parts and will probably leave the trans out to make fabbing the bracket for the slave easier.

Matt
 
:beer: congrats on finding a good clutch shop, the parts look great too! :nod:
 
I was surprised and happy especially seeing that I was able to have it all taken care of while I waited! To top it off, I now have $$$ left over to get the hydraulic conversion started. I will be keeping the Z bar parts around JUUUUUST in case but Im pretty optimistic that this will be a good move to make.

Matt
 
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