66sprint6's Boosted Inline still alive and doin well!

I am also starting a turbo build for my 61 Comet. It currently has a 200 with a 250 head, split tube header, Weber 32/38 DGV, electronic ignition and a T-5. It runs pretty well as it is but I recently bought a 74 Maverick for 500 bucks that has a turbo 250. Mitsubishi turbo, (water and oil cooled), possibly off a Starion, crazy looking Autolite carb, Intercooler and a blowoff valve. It's pretty anemic and it won't even spin the tire. Pretty ugly set up. booger welds, messy plumbing but it does run and drive and is spinning up about 4 pounds of boost. The plan is to freshen up the 200 and swap the turbo setup over and clean everything up. I plan on using the weber. This will be my first turbo build so we plan on keeping the boost conservative. What fuel regulator are you running? Fuel pump pressure etc? It will be a bow through set up.
 
Boost referenced regulator from Mallory. I run 5-6psi base at idle and then the regulator bumps it up 1 psi per psi boost. Run a good 2 barrel thats been modded for boost, get a good electric fuel pump and regulator and you will thank yourself for sure.

Waiting on a new clutch fork (old one was a late 60's clip style and the clip had broken off sometime before I got it and was welded back on. New one should be here shortly. Im going to pull the pedals out soon as well and get started on the roller bearing conversion.

Matt
 
Sure thing and good luck! Its been fun thats for sure. The car hasnt gone far since the TOB came apart. Got it all buttoned back up and turned the motor over and it no longer makes nasty grinding metal noises so the new ring gear is a win. Also decided to go back with the Z bar setup for the moment rather than chase down the parts to go Hydraulic. I greased everything up and put some brass bushings in the holes in the upper Z bar arm where the rod from the clutch pedal mounts as well as in the clutch pedal itself for that same arm. There are supposed to be plastic bushings in those holes but the one in the engine bay was long gone and under the dash it was hanging on for dear life. With the new bushings in place, the Z bar feels better than it EVER has since the day we hung the pedals under the dash! That combined with the new TOB and clutch and everything feels really smooth and a tad softer than ever before which should help the ole left leg out some. Im still eyeballing going with a hydro setup but for now I think its gonna be ok as it is! I still need to put together some small odds and ends, top off the tranny and then itll be back on the road and ready for tuning again!

Matt
 
Thanks for the update
For a non dd ,nothing wrong with a z bar .Keep it simple...I had to brace the arms, ran a heavy sprung clutch...I found running a torque strap kept the motor from moving around, made the bushing last longer and shifting was easier.
 
Yeah I dont DD it anymore but when we take it out to Shades of the Past every year there are some long hours of gridlock traffic at the cruise spot. Thats where my leg was getting wore out. Otherwise, it never bothered me once the car was rolling. I had the timing down and could pop the clutch pedal quick with my left leg, shift quick and be done with it. In traffic its a different situation all together. I might have to look into the torque strap idea!!! You have any pics where/how you mounted it?

Matt
 
Sorry no pic...... I bolted an angle bracket to drivers side, front, high at the vent boss or on later blocks the assessory boss with a flat stock on edge, down to the frame bracket that the sway bar mounts to... Something back by the bell-housing may work but the other was easiest at the time...Some people use cable or chain. A little pre load helps.. It will save motor mounts also.
Gridlock :banghead: Ether way, Maybe a ratio change. Work done is still the same, I do not think they have 2 stage hyd clutch systems yet.
 
Tourque straps, two factory kinds...the Hertz Renta Racer Chain...bottom left by the oil filter, a chain from the cross member or chasis rail to the engine "some how" Two bolts, one piece of chain partly torqued that the limits the engine under a burnout launch. A pice of steel then replaces it once you've gotten the design right. There is about 3 to 4 degrees of engine rotation under soft engine mount transmission, you set a buffer zone to half the amount to about 1.5 to 2 degrees.




No pictures on the net of the 1971-1977 European Granada Mark I 3.0 V6 right hand side upper firewall dampener.


Replicating the "I see says the blind man" item requires you to use you spring tower brace and hook it to the 2V inlet manifolds bolts on the last intake tract. Mkae a stern, hard braket to link the engine to the passenger side brace.


etd2.jpg


eg Front drive cars, like ingalls stiffy engine torque damper 03-07 honda accord 3.0l # 93051


Same thing you find on those funny old 1959 to 1970's "Mr Bean" Mini's

s-l500.jpg
 
From a 13 second 66 Mustang by MustangGeezer.

Torque stay.

A good idea...

torque1.jpg


torque2.jpg
[/QUOTE]

Some 3.8's before the balance shaft got introduced, have an additional drivers side 1.5" diameter shock absorber, it mounts to the power steering bracket, and then to the K member on yet another bracket. .

the only Capris and Mustangs with this are normally 83 and 84 3.8 convertables.


http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... e-K-Member


ccurtin":fed2jzzr said:
Anyone know what this bracket is? To the right of the engine mount, with the hole in it.

4657815694_4414ff1ae7_z.jpg


Jason (rcoupe93) commented he had never seen one before so I started looking at other pictures to see if it stock or not.

Every build thread I've looked at doesn't show this bracket. For reference, here is Croke's 84 RS Turbo:

main.php


Any idea what this is?

The car is an 84 Capri RS Turbo.

Thanks,

Chris
 
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