Turbo - Where to put A/F Bung?

I'm mocking up a carb'd street turbo setup and want to use an A/F sensor to help prevent leaning out, where after turbo is suggested location to weld sensor bung in the mockup below?. The (re-purposed) exhaust downpipe probably be cut before/after flex pipe and directed to rear of the roundbody. (flex will be J-Pipe)

( also appreciate A/F meter/sensor - vendors & experience (affordable) )

thanks

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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3370/overview/

have fun

The 1 wire O2 sensor needs to be heated before it will read properly. So you can put it between the manifold collector and the turbo. I installed my O2 sensor after the turbo which means it take a couple of minutes to heat and work properly.

I used the Bosch #11025 $10-15 depending on your auto parts store.

if you want to pony up the cash for an Innovate LC2, that is the standard for aftermarket universal units. Its about 300 bucks and worth every penny.

If you are 94.3% confident in your ability to tune by ear and just want a confirmation/ idiot light type thing to tell you if something goes wrong, the narrow band unit works. Its not idiot proof, but if you know what you are doing it will help in combination with common sense and tuning by ear.

I have the bosch, i think i specified a '91 chevy lumina or something like that on rock auto. I use a digital multimeter right now but i'm thinking i'm going to get a panel meter for my dash pretty soon.

motzingg":15bopyen said:

... if you know what you are doing it will help in combination with common sense and tuning by ear. I have the bosch, i think i specified a '91 chevy lumina or something like that on rock auto. I use a digital multimeter right now but i'm thinking i'm going to get a panel meter for my dash pretty soon.

Click to expand...

... Interested in learning the A/Fx = V (?) readings on a VOM, I ordered a few 18mm weld-in bungs, 'thinking towards a re-purposed O2 sensor and an analog VOM to seee the A/F ballistics, would O2 sensor - in or near OEM cast manifold outlet need heater?.

have fun

dyno 200

the range is 0-1V, so you need a fairly accurate meter and you will probably want to make a bespoke wiring harness to plug in directly.

you can find graphs like this all over the internet to 'decode' the voltage readings:

hence the 'narrow' band thing, you'll see nothing but garbage until it gets hot enough and even then, if you are over 15 or less than 14:1 AFR you won't get any useful reading.

the needle (analog) meter would probably be nice because it would just kinda hover and either shoot up or drop off for an easy to read confirmation... the digital spends a lot of time just blasting out random nonsense numbers.

so its really just good for fine tuning.

thanks for the info,

I'm looking into wide-band A/F measurement for keeping tuning manageable, got a few 18mm bungs from Summit.

have fun

the INNOVATE LC2 is the best, hands down, value for the dollar. Its awesome and can be hooked up to a computer or an EFI system if you want to later.

For ~300 bucks you will not be disappointed. Its worth every penny to know what your engine is doing. I'm normally a super cheapass, most of my cars have cost less than $300, but the LC2 is a lifetime tool that you will want for any experimenting with forced induction.

IIRC - the sensor can be mounted 6" to 9" from the turbine outlet. Closer can overheat the sensor, mounting before the turbine can skew the measurements as wideband sensors are sensitive to manifold pressure.

In the FWIW category, I had trouble with Innovate products on the F150. My original LC1 is still running in the MGB 7 years later. I am a big fan of the AEM UEGO, its less than the Innovate products and it works!

I haven't done any comparison shopping/testing to be honest, just heard from a buddy the LC2 was good, bought one, and was happy with it.

I don't remember looking at AEM when i bought it, but i thought Innovate was one of the cheapest full feature (output signal, etc) ones that i had seen. I'll have to look at them again as i'm in the market for a new one.

'Band,
I'm using AEM UEGO to tune my tri carb. It was under 2 bills and does what I need. Down side is that you have to glance at the gauge when running. I believe AEM also has a version that'll log to a smartphone. I would think a more "advanced" set up would be better served by something that'll data log and input to a PC along with RPM etc...
Good luck,
'man

I download AEM's PDF install instruction for vsssman's AEM-UEGO type wide band A/F gauge which is prbly typical, the AEM' includes a Bosch WB sensor, install instructions are :


"at least 18" downstream from the exhaust port. ..., a turbocharger, run at high RPM for extended periods of time or plan on running leaded race fuel then you must mount the sensorat least 38" downstream of the exhaust port as all of these can cause the sensor to overheat." .



.
cow-a-bung -ga




(vssman: I always wanted to A/F test-compare the Holley 1904's vs the big 2Bbl on the Offy Tri-Power / Hi-Rise setup, got some xtra bungs ...

)

have fun

we were setting up megasquirt when i bought the LC2 so I needed something with an analog output to the MS box. I wouldn't buy one that didn't have that, just in case you end up wanting to use it someday.

wow, i haven't priced these out in a couple years but this looks like a killer deal

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Moto...=UTF8&qid=1391182810&sr=8-3&keywords=aem+uego

hard to tell if it has the analog output, although they do sell a serial cable to plug into a computer, i would hope it could do data logging or live analog out.

might almost be better to have something like this for carb tuning, the LC2 had to be connected to a computer to give you an easy output, which made sense with megasquirt, not so much with carbs.

My set up is running CI headers into a single. At the end of the header extensions is the 2-1 pipe right under the pass side foot well. Bung/sensor is there at an angle with the cable being higher than the pipe.