95 F150 Turbo 300

Haven't touched the leak yet. I know I'll be pulling the head eventually, so kinda just putting it off until then.

I've had a few instances where I couldnt tell if the tires broke loose or the clutch slipped, so who knows. Pulling the old clutch will be the tell-all. I expect very little friction material left on the disc but I've been wrong before so.....
 
...and then this happened

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JB weld only holds so long, even on 8 psi. Gonna find someone to weld the two aluminum pieces together for me
 
I've tried the stuff from Harbor Freight called "Alumiweld" but I couldnt get the work piece hot enough with a simple MAP or Propane Torch. I could melt the rod but it wouldnt flow into the joint, and certainly didnt "weld" to anything. Perhaps with a better nozzle I could get a hotter temp but I'll just wait until I get a proper acetylene setup. For now getting a buddy to weld it up is easier.
 
yeah that stuff is ok but you need flux to make it work, otherwise you've got to 'tin' the material by scraping the rod against it as you work it, to break up the oxide layer on the surface of the aluminum.

yeah just get it tig'd if you've got a hook up.
 
I've used JB Quick weld before on my BOV to pipe connection without issue to over 20psi. Abrade both surfaces and have something to prevent it from flowing through gaps if you have it too liquid. I have also used Quicksteel without issue to even higher pressures on a BOV to steel pipe, but it should also work fine on aluminum. It's not pretty, but works just as well if you can't weld.
 
So I just spent the day pulling the trans to replace the clutch and much to my surprise, the clutch was already an 11" and looked practically new. WTF! I could have sworn that while slamming through the gears the clutch slipped, and maybe it did. But it surely wasn't from a worn out clutch.

So heres my question, is there a way to adjust the clutch engagement. For example, the clutch didn't grab until the last 25% of the pedal, which led me to believe the clutch was worn (am I wrong here?). If the clutch grabbed earlier I would have to assume there would be more force on the flywheel by the pressure plate, but again thats just how I imagine it in my head. Is there any way to make it so the clutch grabs closer to the middle of the pedal movement or does it not matter in regards to clamping force?
 
Check step height, disk thickness and shim the plate if needed, but it sounds like the flywheel could have been turned incorrectly or the disk is worn...or its just normal for the truck. I was thinking of checking any pedal to master or slave adjustment, but that wouldn't help holding power, just where in the pedal throw engagement happens.
 
After chatting with a few people I think I might know what I was experiencing. I think that since the clutch grabbed so late in the pedal that I may have had my foot in the throttle well before the clutch was all the way out. If I started building boost before the clutch fully grabbed then it would likely slip the clutch. I only had this happen when I was trying to quick shift and never when I eased into boost.

Oh well, even if the clutch was fine Im getting the flywheel resurfaced and throwing the new one in. I'll see if I can change the pedal height to make it harder to eff it up like that. If the clutch grabs earlier Im less likely to have my foot in the throttle before the clutch grabs.
 
i don't remember being an adjustment on the clutch push rod going into the hydraulic MC.

you could cut the rod in half, cut out half an inch, thread it, and screw on a coupler nut.
 
For a while i was toying with cutting the bushing end off a clutch rod and just threading it to accept a heim joint... I had all the math written down somewhere... I think the rod thickness is so close that you dont need to turn down the OD at all... But youd need to take the arm off the pedal pivot and drill the pin out and put a bolt in it... Or maybe you can just run a c clip on the end of the stock pin and i just thought you should just really do the bolt for more support? I cant remember...

There is a guy selling a set screw heim joint on ebay that you cut your rod off and slap that thing on there but it doesnt give you adjustability let me know if you want me to dig around for my notes also the rod is held in the master cylinder with a little metal clip in there its easy to pop apart ive got like 2 haha
 
Nah sorry, been spending some time on the lady's super beetle. Her dad is painting the body and he's about done so we had to spend some time getting the chassis, motor, etc ready.

I still havn't even pulled the flywheel to get resurfaced, and I'm going on vacation for a while soon so it'll be a bit before she's back on the road.
 
Same boat with my turbo project. Waiting the finish putting together my brothers plow truck and my old mans 6cyl swap done on an 85' f150. Too many projects, I think that's a common theme around here lol. Quick question. How are you limiting boost on that holset? If I recall the factory waste gate is set to like 30psi or something like that.
 
I found a wastegate off of something much smaller, think it was a mitsubishi turbo. Anyway, I rigged up a bracket and chopped the actuator down until it mounted and pushed the wastegate flap nicely. I have no real idea what spring is in it, its factory so its not replaceable but it runs 8psi until boost creep, which happens around 4K rpm.
 
So I literally had to take a half day at work just to get some free time to work on the truck, stuffs been busy.

I took the flywheel and had it resurfaced even though it looked fine, it’s a $35 peace of mind kinda thing. Put the new throwout bearing in (or whatever you call it since it’s a concentric slave cylinder) and went to pull the pilot bearing. That’s where things went south. I knew by looking at the new bearing that it had two slots for the puller to grab it, but for the life of me I couldn’t locate them with the puller or a finger. So after many many failed attempts, I finally said f*$% it. I found a bolt that threaded on the puller, welded it to the old bearing and pulled it out with ease. What a pain in arse.


So that took nearly all of the afternoon after running to the parts store to get the puller and whatnot. Today I’ll try and get the flywheel and clutch bolted on. I also went and bought a trans jack so putting the tranny back in should be much easier.
 
^ Yeah... i went through that as well. Spent a good 3-4 hours trying to cut it out, cold chisel it, cave it in.

Finally gave up and welded a nut in there, screwed the bolt through the nut, and kept turning until the bolt bottomed out and pushed out the bearing.

Nothing like wasting the entire time alloted to the project on a '15 minute' job.
 
:unsure: or you could pack it full of wheel bearing grease then use a close fitting rod and hammer and hydolically push it out! :nod:
 
^ I read about that but I didnt have anything that would fit tightly and the bearing was fairly worn so I feel the grease would have just oozed out. But yeah, we all know the uphill battle any "regular maintenance" item can be.

Got the trans bolted up last night...that harbor freight trans jack was clutch. It doesnt have the ability to tilt as far as I needed it to, but it got me close enought that I could man-handle it into place. Just a few things to tidy up before I can drive it again. Then I'm setting up timing control, tired of this locked timing crap.
 
thanks for the info on the wastegate, a buddy is letting me borrow his tial 38mm external probably just to motivate me to get this project moving, im planning to build a tubular twin scroll manifold from some old headers laying around, just bought a turbo, next on the list is megasquirt stuff. looking forward to seeing your truck driving again, I don't think youll slip that 11" clutch, ive towed heavy with mine. would love to see a video of speedo, tach, and boost gauge going through the gears if you decide to play with that go pro again!
 
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