1992 F150 4x4 Build
- Thread starter 92f150i6
- Start date
deere114":3ddocgbr said:
That would be true if there was scavenging but if there is much more than a 1:1 exhaust manifold to intake manifold pressure ratio then it is better to decrease the valve overlap time.
There are a few examples on this forum with turbocharging using the Comp 260 cam and there appears to be room for improvement. IMO
Which lifters are recommended? Comp has 2 different models (Pro Magnum, High Energy), Howards has 2 different models, Crower, Rhoads, etc.. I'm just wanting a set that's going to last and work without modification, which I guess they all should work without modification. I'm getting ready to buy Comp Cam 942-12 Springs, 747-12 Retainers and 612-12 Locks. I can get them thru Tickwholesale.com $97.21 + Shipping. I just need to figure out what lifters and hopefully order them thru Tick as well.
92f150i6":305zzucb said:
The Ford 300 valve stems are 11/32" diameter or .343"
The Comp 612 locks are for 3/8 stems and are also recessed for lash caps.
I don't think that is what you want?
The 613 fits 11/32 valve stem and is not recessed for lash cap.
I'm about to try a set of Crower Cam saver lifter part# 66015X3-12
92f150i6":36vsv6jj said:
LOL, Nope! The 747 retainer is designed for 10 degree locks.
Stock locks are 7 degree and will work with the 768 retainer that I specified.
It is a good idea to buy new locks
You can use the 747 retainer with the Comp 613, 10 degree locks or the 768 retainer with the Comp 601, 7 degree locks
The 747 retainer will fit tighter on the 942 spring than the 768 retainer
I got a little more work done. Valve springs, retainers, cam all showed up, took the head to the machine shop to have it surfaced, valve job, cleaned, and 7/16 rocker arm studs installed. Now it looks like I need a set of BBC roller rockers. Anyone have some recommendations for that?
I used the Comp 1826-12 to stay with a 1.6 rocker ratio
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1826-12
Which cam did you purchase?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1826-12
Which cam did you purchase?
I guess I should've included the part numbers for everything. I went with the Schneider 131-H recommended earlier. It's .464" lift with 1.6 ratio rockers and 262 intake/262 exhaust duration. I also bought their 5305-12 Lifters.
Comp #942-12 Springs
Comp #768-12 Retainers
Comp #601-12 Valve Locks
I bought a set of the adjustable crank/cam timing gears. This cam should probably installed straight up right? The stock crank gear retards timing 4 degrees I believe. This gear is adjustably in 3 slots, -4, straight up and +4 timing.
Comp #942-12 Springs
Comp #768-12 Retainers
Comp #601-12 Valve Locks
I bought a set of the adjustable crank/cam timing gears. This cam should probably installed straight up right? The stock crank gear retards timing 4 degrees I believe. This gear is adjustably in 3 slots, -4, straight up and +4 timing.
Don't put the head on yet.
You will need #1 piston to zero the timing mark tab and to degree the cam.
The cam can be straight up or if it ends up advanced one or two degrees that is OK also.
Try it first with crankshaft gear in the straight up position and see where it actually is.
I'm assuming that you have a degree wheel and dial indicator?
Do you happen to know what the installed valve spring height is?
Everything looks great!
Thanks for posting the pics.
Almost forgot. You will need pushrod guides to keep the rockers centered on the valve stem.
You will need #1 piston to zero the timing mark tab and to degree the cam.
The cam can be straight up or if it ends up advanced one or two degrees that is OK also.
Try it first with crankshaft gear in the straight up position and see where it actually is.
I'm assuming that you have a degree wheel and dial indicator?
Do you happen to know what the installed valve spring height is?
Everything looks great!
Thanks for posting the pics.
Almost forgot. You will need pushrod guides to keep the rockers centered on the valve stem.
I'm trying to figure something out for the guide plates. I might just re-use some kind of factory plates and cut then re-weld them.
I do not have a degree wheel yet but I will definitely be ordering one. The spring height was checked by my machinist. I can't remember what he said they were at but I trust him. He's rebuilt atleast 5 of my and my customers 4g63 heads with aftermarket springs and has done a lot of bottom end work for those engines as well for me.
I do not have a degree wheel yet but I will definitely be ordering one. The spring height was checked by my machinist. I can't remember what he said they were at but I trust him. He's rebuilt atleast 5 of my and my customers 4g63 heads with aftermarket springs and has done a lot of bottom end work for those engines as well for me.
I tried using the Comp 4835 adjustable pushrod guideplates. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4835-1/overview/
When I went to tighten the rocker stud they would turn and screw up the alignment.
So we made a fixture using a thick chunk of aluminum from our leftover pile and installed 4 dowels that where turned on the lathe for a tight fit.
Holes for the dowels where drilled in the mill at a 1.940" center.
My valve to valve centers averaged 1.920" and the lifter centers are farther apart so the pushrod centers increase as you down the length.
We installed each pushrod guideplate pair on the fixture with clamps and welded the adjustable tabs.
When I went to tighten the rocker stud they would turn and screw up the alignment.
So we made a fixture using a thick chunk of aluminum from our leftover pile and installed 4 dowels that where turned on the lathe for a tight fit.
Holes for the dowels where drilled in the mill at a 1.940" center.
My valve to valve centers averaged 1.920" and the lifter centers are farther apart so the pushrod centers increase as you down the length.
We installed each pushrod guideplate pair on the fixture with clamps and welded the adjustable tabs.
sthorvictor
Well-known member
looks good! good info i was also wondering about the Comp 4835 adjustable pushrod guideplates pmuller9.. 
Don't wonder too much!sthorvictor":3tp8mpmz said:looks good! good info i was also wondering about the Comp 4835 adjustable pushrod guideplates pmuller9..
The plates being shown are the Comp 4835 adjustable pushrod guideplates.
Read the beginning of the post that explains why the need to weld them together.
sthorvictor
Well-known member
pmuller9":oy8tkzva said:Don't wonder too much!sthorvictor":oy8tkzva said:looks good! good info i was also wondering about the Comp 4835 adjustable pushrod guideplates pmuller9..
The plates being shown are the Comp 4835 adjustable pushrod guideplates.
Read the beginning of the post that explains why the need to weld them together.
thanks! i did read it hehe guess i should specify what i was curious about. it was pertaining to how much movement there would be between the tong and groove when torquing the studs down so to say, was measuring buddies 302 solid pushrod guide plates, however it would be nice to have something you can tweak and straighten everything out
92f150i6 you can print off a degree wheel template from the interweb, glue to a peice of cereal box and center on the crank using the crank bolt for less than 25c not including the cost of a glue stick :rolflmao: and some stiff wire you can bolt to one of the timing cover bolts