1992 F150 4x4 Build

92f150i6

New member
This will be my first time turbo'ing something that wasn't a factory turbo vehicle. I have a lot of experience in earlier turbo Eclipses/Talons and will be using that knowledge here.

Bottom end specs:
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Headstuds
Felpro 1024 Headgasket
Sealed Power Rod and Main Bearings
Sealed Power H519P20 .020 Over Pistons
Cloyes 81014 Timing Set
Sealed Power Oil Pump

I picked up a complete engine sometime last year in April for around $250. I didn't mess with it for awhile because I was remodeling another house and preparing to move.

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This past October I tore it apart, the engine was really good shape. I tons of new parts during that time, including ARP Head studs, Main studs, rod bolts, and found a ZF5 for $200

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I sent the block, crank, rods and pistons to the machine shop for the following services:
Bore block .020"
Hot tank block and head
Deck block and resurface head
Resize and recondition rods
Pressfit new pistons on rods
Polish Crank
Line hone mains
Install cam bearings

It was $836 in machine work.. I hope it lives a long life to make it worth it.

Here it is fresh from machining

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Don't forget to use a bottom tap or thread chaser on the head bolt/stud holes, this will help achiever proper torque

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Tape it all up

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Might as well make it clean. There is so much metallic flake I dumped in the clear coat, pictures just won't do this justice.

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Installed main studs

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Polished crank going in

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Plastigage all the mains, they were just a tad tighter than .003". I would normally use green gage for this but I was out, red was the next closest thing.

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All torqued and spins extremely smooth. The line honing was worth it

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And that's where I am at today. Hopefully next week I will get some time to install the pistons and maybe front cover stuff.

I told my friend who's mostly a GM fanboy, he won't own any other truck at least, I was going to call the truck 5.3 killer. He didn't think it was too funny
 
Sweet! apparently you can take the Eclipse away, but judging by the paint job DSM is in your blood. HA haha, gotta give you a hard time about that. Looks awesome but wouldn't survive the installation back into my truck.

I had just decided on the H554 pistons after much deliberation, but now i'm leaning back to 519's. What was your reasoning for choosing one over the other?

What turbo are you going to be using? Or is that a surprise?

Very excited for this build, looks like its going to be done right, can't wait to see how it goes.
 
DSMs taught me everything I know about cars so it's definitely in my blood lol. In the first pic in the background there is a 2.3L stroker I just built. I paint every engine that color, I bought a gallon of ppg omni paint years ago on eBay for $40 and still haven't used half of it. It lasts longer than a spray can job.

I really didn't see many options for pistons. I really wanted forged, but wasn't going to drop $500 or more on custom ross pistons at this time, maybe the next build. I think I seen frenchtownflyer post something about the 519s. The machine shop recommended the PTW to be .0025 instead of .0015 since I'm putting some boost to it. I will also open up the end gaps in the .024-.026 range. I'm trying not to take any shortcuts on this build but I am on a budget too.
 
cool thanks for the reply.

yeah i've gone back and forth, the 519's have the correct squish/quench area to match the head, but the 554's have a 40-something CC dish. CR on the 519's looks like it will work out in the 8.5-9 range, whereas the 554's would be closer to 8.0, maybe lower depending on how much i can carve out of the chambers.

the question which i'm asking myself is: what is more important, a good quench area to take heat out of the piston, or an extra half point lower compression?

since you're coming from 'Lima' motors, you know the deal with removing the swirl ridge, like on the turbo 2.3 vs. na 2.3? I'm planning on copying that feature on the 4.9 EFI head and doing the same thing, knocking that down and maybe a little radius along the edge. Any thoughts?
 
Sweet build, I always love pics of freshly machined blocks receiving paint and such. Im excited for ya and I gaurantee it'll eat 5.3's for breakfast.
I've boosted my 180K all stock motor and it hasnt really missed a beat. I need to grab a spare motor and start preparing for the inevitable though.
 
looks awesome, keep the progress rolling... stock cr is alright for these with good fuel, the oil hole in the rods does wonders for keeping the hypers cool, running 15lbs on 94 (ethanol present) with a 300K+ engine and a re ring/ on the block, just started stripping the second block a few weeks ago, this one has a wee bit of blow by :rolflmao: want to lower the cr down a point and see what we can build her up too.

im looking into getting the rod small end resized to (o.927") fit some chebby sealed power forged slugs (wl2166nf) to work if i can find something that works in the rough ball park and maybe figure out what to do with the dome, maybe get a machinist buddy to cut er down? all cost depending, i have no issues with running the hypers again and maybe getting creative..
 
I haven't forgot about this. I've been super busy working on a few other projects for other people, and with winter here I have very limited time outside without a heated garage. I finally got my Megasquirt DIYPNP together and I guess somewhat of a base tune on it. It has a few issues starting, but it idles better than it did before. It cruises about the same, I really haven't made many adjustments in the VE table yet. I really need to install a wideband but this exhaust is so rusted out and I'm hoping to get this motor and turbo setup done soon. I'm keep this post short since it's so late, but I'd really like to add more info about building/installing/running the DIYPNP since I haven't really seen anyone else run this yet. It was really simple though, soldering iron is about the only thing required.

My friend also gave me a hell of a deal on a Rough Country 4" lift and helped me install it. This has been the first time I've drove the truck since spring after the replacement ECU burnt out on me. I need to order a cam kit next, have the head machined and new valve springs installed. I haven't seen anyone install the Isky 330-TKA cam which is the only 4.9 turbo cam I could find. I was just curious on everyone's thoughts about it. On to a few quick pics...

New ride height
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No adapter board needed, this is the entire PCM.
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Tuner studio is some very nice software. It's a breeze to tune with.
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The Isky 331TA cam is ok if you are running the early model stock exhaust log manifold where the very short exhaust duration and wide LSA helps isolate the cylinders from the back pressure.
Even at that IMO there still is too much spread between the intake and exhaust duration.

If you are planning on using the much more efficient EFI exhaust manifolds that you already have, you can use a cam where the intake and exhaust durations are the same but keep the LSA at least 112 degrees.

Then it is a matter of deciding the RPM range where you want to make power which is the next question?
 
I definitely plan on using the efi manifolds. The truck probably won't see full boost until 2800 rpm. This 58mm turbo I have might be going to a friend. I have a spare PTE6765 that I may use, I would need to change the hotside since it's currently a .63 t3. Or I may just buy a new borgwarner S366 .91 t4. From what I can see a lot of people are seeing full boost on their hx35s @ 2500rpm. But they could be using the massive 18cm housing as well so I'm not entirely sure where I will see full boost. The trucks main purpose will be pulling my cars back and forth from the drag strip, farm use, etc.. and do it all reliably. This long runner intake won't flow much up top. Realistically I just need a cam that's going to produce good low-mid range torque.
 
I'm in the middle of assembling my diy pnp right now. Would be interested in pics of the boards assembled if you have them, the instructions on diyautotune are pretty generic so I've been going slow. On the cam, if you look up turbob's build he's using stock efi exhaust manifolds, a 12cm^2 hx35, I think 2? Inch up pipes to the turbo, and a comp cam 260h. He's reporting spool at 1800 rpm in 3rd gear with a zf5. I personally don't like that isky grind at all, or off the shelf turbo cams for that matter since people's set ups vary so much. I'm personally looking into either the comp 260h or the isky 262 for my own build. Im going with the theory that if I build an efficient turbo kit and under 15psi of boost I should have close to a 1 to 1 boost vs back pressure ratio. If that works out then the engine should be cammed very similarly to n/a. By using a turbo with a split scroll turbine housing and the stock efi exhaust manifolds you have the ability to isolate the front 3 and rear 3 cylinders from each other. With the 300's firing order this is perfect as the exhaust pulses won't interfere with each other. I have a tp38 off of a 94-97 power stroke diesel and bough a .84 turbine housing. Im hoping on boost below 2500rpm with this set up. My build is similar to yours in purpose. Tow rig/work truck. I have 4.10 gears and a zf5 speed. I'm going to do a little more on my diypnp tonight after work. Already played with the tuner studio software and it looks like it's going to be a sweet deal to tune with for sure. Did you hook up all the features? 2 step, launch control, table switch blah blah blah? I plan to hook up most of them.
 
I have the ecu out of the truck right now since I didn't want it to get wet with the rain that's coming up (pretty sure this is why my original ecu in the truck died twice). I'll pull off the covers tonight and take a bunch of pics for you, that would've helped me a lot. The jumper wiring and everything should be the same as mine unless you have changed your ignition (mine is bone stock for now). I didn't hook up any of the mod kits yet but I definitely want to do the flex fuel, launch control, knock control in the future but most of that will not happen until the new motor is in most likely. I was really impressed with the TunerStudio software. I've used HPTuners on LS engines in the past and it is very confusing to novice tuners like me. TunerStudio seemed to have everything organized properly and there weren't so many tables to get lost and confused in. One of my favorite features is the real time changes without needing to shut the truck off.
 
Thanks a bunch! I am all stock right now, running stock ecu daily back and forth to work. Hoping to get this thing assembled tonight so I can install and tune this weekend. Since your wideband isn't hooked up right now are you using the stock narrow band? Or just running it in open loop?
 
92f150i6":5j1kv1k7 said:
I definitely plan on using the efi manifolds. The truck probably won't see full boost until 2800 rpm. This 58mm turbo I have might be going to a friend. I have a spare PTE6765 that I may use, I would need to change the hotside since it's currently a .63 t3. Or I may just buy a new borgwarner S366 .91 t4. From what I can see a lot of people are seeing full boost on their hx35s @ 2500rpm. But they could be using the massive 18cm housing as well so I'm not entirely sure where I will see full boost. The trucks main purpose will be pulling my cars back and forth from the drag strip, farm use, etc.. and do it all reliably. This long runner intake won't flow much up top. Realistically I just need a cam that's going to produce good low-mid range torque.

If you are using the stock (non-ported) head with an air to air intercooler, it will be difficult to push the horsepower much over 300.
You really don't need more than a 450 hp turbo in the 52 - 54 mm range depending on the type.
Max flow will be around 35 lbs/min @ 15 lbs of boost or a 2:1 pressure ratio.

The Comp 260 cam works however efficiency can be improved slightly by using a wider 112 degree LSA.
Consider the Schneider 131H.
http://schneidercams.com/131HfordI6hydraulic-1.aspx

It has a longer advertised duration along with the wider LSA so you can advance the cam for better spooling and still maintain a reasonable DCR.
I would set the intake lobe center at 109-110 degrees ATDC.
 
Sorry it took so long to get back, I took some pictures and hopefully have some info to help anyone else on their DIYPNP ECU's. For the most part I followed this write up for the basics:
http://www.miataforumz.com/how-40/megas ... tions-356/

I soldered the jumper wires accordingly:

MS - EEC-IV Pin
IAT - 25
CLT - 7
O2 - 29
OP+ - 56
IAC - 21
Fuel - 22
INJ2 - 59
INJ1 - 58
12V - 37
SG - 16, 46
GND - 40, 60
IG1 - IGN for TFI Control
I also installed the IAC Pull Up Diode, the banded end should be in the 12V hole.

My jumper wiring is not pretty and I accidentally burnt the o2 wire because I wasn't paying attention when soldering another wire. This is why you take your time to wire neatly and organized :LOL:
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I am using a TrippLite U209 serial to USB adapter + 6ft serial cable with Windows 7 x64 to connect my laptop to the DIYPNP. I have had no issues with this at all so far. You will need to upload a firmware to the controller. This is pretty simple. Make sure you have your BOOT Jumper plugged in on the DIYPNP main circuit board (you will have to pull this back out after the firmware is uploaded otherwise you will not be able to connect to TunerStudio). I followed this guide to install the firmware, I downloaded MS2/Extra 3.4.1 file and used the Microsquirt module (I think this was the default) firmware inside of it. Once you get the firmware loaded, you should be able to connect to TunerStudio. I have attached some screenshots of my settings in TS.

Basic/Load Settings -> Engine and Sequential Settings
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Ignition Settings -> Igntion Options
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Fuel Settings -> Fuel VE Table 1, I had to change the 30.1, 35.0 in the 501-1401 range to get it to idle without surging. I increased the values. Generally it will surge when it hits a lean spot. Increasing the VE values adds fuel. 1 additional value can make a big difference so you don't need to add a lot usually. When the truck is running there is a little dot that will show you what cells you are hitting so it's easy to see where fuel may need added if it's surging.
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Tools -> Un/Lock Calibrations and change the sensor calibrations to unlocked, and lock them after you change the settings in the Calibrate Thermistor Tables for Coolant Temp Sensor and Air Temp Sensor, set this both to Ford Common Sensor Values
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i411/prodigyms/Mobile%20Uploads/MSCLT_zpsclkutnoq.jpg[img]

One setting I also just found out I missed was the Calibrate AFR table, I had none selected. I am using the Narrowband which would make sense why it wasn't working properly.
[img]http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i411/prodigyms/Mobile%20Uploads/MSO2_zpsramgw6rx.jpg

I made a few changes to the warmup enrichment tables and that was it. I haven't changed timing or anything else yet. The truck runs pretty decent when the engine is at operating temp. I've probably put 80 miles on it so far and hauled a couple loads of firewood from the farm. So far I've been pleased and this was encouragement to get back to work on the turbo and engine rebuild. Hope this helps!
 
pmuller9":35dh7ru4 said:
If you are using the stock (non-ported) head with an air to air intercooler, it will be difficult to push the horsepower much over 300.
You really don't need more than a 450 hp turbo in the 52 - 54 mm range depending on the type.
Max flow will be around 35 lbs/min @ 15 lbs of boost or a 2:1 pressure ratio.

The Comp 260 cam works however efficiency can be improved slightly by using a wider 112 degree LSA.
Consider the Schneider 131H.
http://schneidercams.com/131HfordI6hydraulic-1.aspx

It has a longer advertised duration along with the wider LSA so you can advance the cam for better spooling and still maintain a reasonable DCR.
I would set the intake lobe center at 109-110 degrees ATDC.

You are right, I don't need anything bigger than what you suggested really. I just can't figure out what size turbine housing I should go with. Thanks for the link on the cam, I will definitely consider that. The one thing I did like about the Isky Cam is they had a kit that included springs, pushrods and lifters. Since I'm not going that route anymore what springs are recommended?
 
92f150i6":25tmko6c said:
You are right, I don't need anything bigger than what you suggested really. I just can't figure out what size turbine housing I should go with. Thanks for the link on the cam, I will definitely consider that. The one thing I did like about the Isky Cam is they had a kit that included springs, pushrods and lifters. Since I'm not going that route anymore what springs are recommended?

Don't use less than a .80 or more than a 1.00 A/R turbine housing.
A .68 will spool fast but will be a restriction as you try to build HP in the upper RPM range. Also good for glowing red exhaust manifolds.
Over 1.00 and it will take too long to spool and you will lose the lower end of the power band.

Also using the correct size turbo for the job rather than a larger turbo helps spooling because the wheel inertia is far less.

The Comp 260 cam kit uses the 903 spring which is about the same as stock spring specs which is not enough spring pressure for turbo use and higher rpm.
80 lbs at 1.700" installed height and 216 lbs open with the .464" lift Schneider cam.

The Isky cam kit uses the 6005 spring which has a lot of valve seat pressure with 148 lbs @ 1.700" and 275 lbs open
IMO 148 lbs on the seat is too much and will only aid in valve recession.

I suggest the Comp 942-12 spring with the Comp 768-12 retainer.
115 lbs at 1.700" installed height and 272 lbs open with the Schneider cam.

The 942 spring has an OD of 1.437" versus around 1.400" for stock.
Please check to see if a 1.437" fits in the valve pocket in your head.
It should otherwise a little machining will be required.
 
Hey what do you guys think about the Howard's 267 cam? It's a little larger then the isky or shneider at 213@.050" but I think with 50 cube cylinders and moderate flowing head shouldn't really sacrifice any torque above 1300 rpm and peak around 4500. Intake valve closes at 59.5@.006" which is half a degree later then the isky and shneider technically giving it the least dynamic cr of the three. And at .480" lift has more lift then the others. Believe it's ground on a 110? Lsa which I think is fine for the moderate duration of cams were talking about here.
 
As far as turbine side stuff an hx35 uses a 58mm exducer turbine wheel in a 12cm housing (not sure what the a/r works out to) and using a 260h cam turbo b is starting to spool at 1800 rpm in 3rd with an empty truck. I'm going to give my tp38 a fair chance. It has a 60 mm compressor who's map matches a 350 fwhp 300 EXTREMELY well. It's turbine wheel is much larger then an hx35 though, mustang guys have seen 2600 rpm full spool with the big 1.15 a/r housing. I'm hoping the more low rpm ve of the 300 and the .84 a/r housing I plan to run will spool around 2000 rpm. I hope.
 
deere114":2h8lzm2u said:
Hey what do you guys think about the Howard's 267 cam? It's a little larger then the isky or shneider at 213@.050" but I think with 50 cube cylinders and moderate flowing head shouldn't really sacrifice any torque above 1300 rpm and peak around 4500. Intake valve closes at 59.5@.006" which is half a degree later then the isky and shneider technically giving it the least dynamic cr of the three. And at .480" lift has more lift then the others. Believe it's ground on a 110? Lsa which I think is fine for the moderate duration of cams were talking about here.

The main reason for the Schneider cam was to have 8 degrees less .050" overlap over the Comp 260 cam for the sake of improved overall efficiency.
There is not enough difference between the Comp 260 and Howards 267 cam to make the swap worth while.

At some point you have to go custom cam to make a big difference in performance.
 
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