"The Cure" External Power Valve Control

I have developed this system to control the p.v. in blow thru applications. It works similar to the Crutch, but does not use a motor. The valves can be sourced on ebay, used and new. There are other models that can be used, research their limitations and specifications carefully.

There may be instances where the Crutch would be preferred, and instances where the Cure would be prefered. If properly thought out, the Cure could be used to control vacuum advance diaphragms to keep timing high to help spool as well, with another unit. Use at your own risk. 100% reliability when using to control p.v.'s over 2 years on one combo, and since the beginning of my build. An installed picture can be seen here(scroll down to the second pic, it's on the firewall between the hat and heater hoses): http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13936 ... st15578945

Here is how it works: https://www.facebook.com/13418477692506 ... =3&theater

I should note, the Ford pancake type diaphragm check valves found mostly in early '80's and down vacuum plumbing work best. $5 aquarium ebay check valves and the like tend to stick shut after seeing pressure. What I have found is the check valve is best used in high boost apps where the power valve circuit is very rich. The check valve keeps afr's leaner until boosted.

Did you say in your other post that the carb needs some slight rework of an (internal passage)? Are there any other pictures showing all the parts used? Thank you

This is the easiest way to do the mod: https://www.facebook.com/13418477692506 ... 05211a9566

Tap and plug that port in the body. Countersink the plug enough so you can drill into the power valve cavity on an angle, with minimum disturbance to the body surface. This port is connected to the primary metering block nipple when the carb is together. The vacuum signal is now blocked with the plug and the metering block nipple is now connected to the p.v. cavity.

Plug the original p.v. reference hole that goes down through the base plate. You can tap and plug the body or the base plate. I prefer the base plate because it's easier than working on the body when it's upside down. But if you change base plates for any reason, you have to remember to mod the new plate. https://www.facebook.com/13418477692506 ... 092e1cd40e

That's it! You now have external control of the p.v. via the metering block nipple. You can connect the metering block nipple to a vacuum source below the throttle blades with a short vacuum hose just for now so the p.v. works as it did before the mods until you get everything sorted out.

Parts needed: 2 brass threaded plugs, Johnson switching valve, Ford pancake check valve such as used to control heat riser flappers in air cleaners, quality vacuum line, small zip ties.

You have to watch out on the check valves, some seep and some don't, not sure on what all the different colors do. Simply check the valve with your lungs. Green and black is what I have on my truck, with the black side toward the Johnson valve. Of course check it to make sure.

That explanation and the pictures do help a lot, I think I almost got it about figured out on how it will work.
In the past I have only worked on some old heavy equipment and tractors that were turboed. But lately been thinking of putting a 300 in my 1956 F-350 car transport and maybe going with a turbo to help it haul the weight up the mountain roads we have here in this area. Also might like to try going with turbo power for my drag car build too. Thank you

Sounds like a couple of fun projects.

Turbo's are so much fun with the flexibility of making more power with adjustments/boost/timing/fuel. Just 8 psi will give about 50hp and 100+tq on a stock 300. Been thinking about starting a compilation thread of turbo 300 combo's from lowest hp to highest to help others.

im still waiting to see a good video of sick6 dashboard on a good 10psi transbrake launch. Probably have to wait for the track to open in the spring huh? Bet you'll have a time slip in the high 11s. Your truck has to be the fastest thing for the least money invested I've seen in awhile. Props for your enginuety!

Thanks deere114! Just got 11" of snow so things are hold lol. Working on getting a camera in the truck and should get some launch and go's in the spring. Also may install a 1/4 mile timer that I have to save from going to the track as much. It's a $100 bill each time with gas, entry and eats, I can do other things with that money. 11's is the initial goal. 500hp is the next.

The whole build is about doing what you can with what you have and can figure out vs. opening the wallet every time. Sure a pro ported head, roller rockers,..etc..would make more power, but most anyone can afford the parts I use. Figuring things out and making them work is more appealing to me than buying race parts.

True hot rodding! I've got a 5.0 foxbody mustang that's fun, but ya go on a mustang forum and everybody immediately points you to a high dollar parts combo out of a catalog that really doesn't make that much power given the money invested. It's not as fun to me. I've had a 400whp goal in the back of my mind for a long time for an engine I want to build for my 79 f100 4x4. Initially I was figuring a lot of high dollar parts. Props for really exploring the 300 and documenting everything so well. The knowledge on this forum is far better then any small block ford knowledge I've found on mustang forums.