Supercharged 240 update.

Toyboytoh

Active member
Ya, so I had blow by. Took the thing to car shows. Destroyed two distributor gears oddly enough. Ran Into some coin recently and I'm getting the little pup rebuilt.
Buuuut I bought a turbo...
So ya, here goes nothing. The motors getting rebuilt top to bottom and I'm adding a turbo to the supercharged setup.
I believe i will be the only person ever to have a supercharged, turbocharged, nitrous 240 inline six In the world? I looked it up as much as possible and could find anyone that's done it.

I'm not porting or going insane on the rebuild. Just a nice rebuild with new pistons, new cam, springs, valves and whatever else it needs. And um. Ya. What do you guys think?!
It'll be a small shot of nitrous and minimal boost from the turbo. But none the less a tri charged inline.
Just wanted to post an update.

Keep on keeping on guys.
 
Toyboytoh":39vrq96r said:
I'm not porting or going insane on the rebuild. Just a nice rebuild with new pistons, new cam, springs, valves and whatever else it needs. And um. Ya. What do you guys think?!
It'll be a small shot of nitrous and minimal boost from the turbo. But none the less a tri charged inline.

Forged Pistons, 12cc dish, CH = 1.6".
Cut block deck for zero piston to deck clearance.

Remove forging lines from rod beams and shot peen the rods.
Resize with ARP rod bolt.

ARP main studs and head studs.

Crower 19213 cam
 
On my twin turbo 300 build (close enough) I did ARP main studs head studs. Don't forget like I did though, the block needs to be line honed when you stud the mains. Also, have fun with the oil pickup tube. On the set I got, there were no special provisions on the top of the stud for the bracket. That's a whole new story though.

Don't forget to go wide on your ring gap! I set my ring gap to .032" .
I also went .003-.004" on my main bearing gap because of the turbo setup.

I contacted compcams and had them custom grind a turbo cam for me. If I remember correctly, 219/219, 114deg LSA.

I totally agree with pmuller on the forged pistons.

Get propane intake and exhaust valves. The ones I got are Stellite.

If you can, get your exhaust manifold ceramic coated. That will help.

This is an idea to throw out, someone please correct me if I'm thinking wrong. The newer EFI heads have a heart shaped combustion chamber that is supposed to "make more power" than older heads' combustion chambers. I read somewhere that you're better off with that over a 240 head.

When I had my 240 that was a stock rotating setup I regularly spun it up to 5000rpm. I hit 5300 once and I'm pretty sure the valves floated. Plenty of rpm to work with on a setup you're proposing.
 
AlphaZ":1n3mrd3x said:
The newer EFI heads have a heart shaped combustion chamber that is supposed to "make more power" than older heads' combustion chambers. I read somewhere that you're better off with that over a 240 head.

The EFI head is designed to promote swirl. The reason is to reduce ign timing requirements, which helps clean up emissions, improves fuel economy and adds low speed torque. Google 'E6SE heads' to see similar chambers used on the 5.0L.

At the low RPM levels the big six runs, the torque boost results in a HP boost. But any serious power build ditches the swirl heads. Forced induction eliminates the need for swirl or quench anyway.

I would run the 300 carb head, with the biggest valves I could squeeze in the chamber. And lower the compression as much as possible. My last turbo ended up 7.4:1.
 
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