Turbo 240 or 300

That's all awesome info I just don't know what my application will require pretty sure I'm going 321 though? Does the mount to the AC need to be 321 also probably?
 
321 mandrels and collectors ordered should ship in a week. From burns.....cheap lol he said 304 was fine for the mount?
 
I'm hopefully going to be going and working on the mount on the front of the motor for the turbo tomorrow. Do you have any pics of any hiem joint style mounts? Will I need to use two on both sides if I don't basically hang the turbo from one. Honestly heim joints another thing I've never used/am not very familiar with. Also I know I'm going to have to modify the outlet side of the intercooler, so should I buy one with 2 inch openings? The inlet side would then match the outlet of my turbo so not reducer needed there. Then the modified side going to the throttle body will be 65mm to fit directly to the throttle body no reducer needed? Or is it better to have bigger tubes?
 
Don't worry about using Heim joints. I forgot about the amount of heat the header flange will transfer to the Heim joint.
Just proceed with the flexible arm/bracket design.

I'm not seeing large intercoolers with less than 2.5" inlet/outlet sizes.
It is ok to minimize tube volume by using 2" ID from the turbo and something close to 65mm ID to the throttle body.
You may want to modify the intercoolers inlet and outlet.

Measure the amount of space just behind the front grill and see what the largest size intercooler can fit.
See if you can fit an intercooler that has a 24" by 12" core which makes it about 32" by 12" overall counting the end caps.
 
Huh really you don't like the heim joint idea anymore do they not have stainless heims? What about a heim on the motor side? 32 would be the max I could fit I measured it and it could do a 30 for sure maybe a 31 or a 32 but that is going to be huge lol. I could probably go a little taller to 17, 18 inchs? Oh yeah how did that cam card look?
 
Also I just ordered that distributor will it work with the holley HP EFI set up just curious cause I can't figure out which one to go with still lol?
 
The Holley HP EFI has an optional cable that plugs directly into that distributor.
The Holley HP also has a self learning mode.
The universal wiring kit comes with all the cables already terminated with plugs for sensors, injectors..ect with all the sensors included.
You can also get the unterminated cables so you can make custom length cables.
 
Awesome that is great news. If I did want to us stock sensors where do I get the terminated plug ends to go to all the stock sensors. Will the kit have everything for that or I am looking junkyard?
 
The only stock sensors that can be used is the Intake Air Temp and Water Temp so why not use the new ones that comes with kit.
All other sensors are different.
Wide band O2 instead of the stock narrow band
2 or 3 bar MAP sensor instead of the stock 1 bar
The 65mm throttle body has its own TPS sensor along with the IAC
 
Almost forgot.
Cam Card:
[image]https://www.dropbox.com/s/m7muan0xurh5cbq/Howard%20turbo%20cam.jpg?dl=0[/image]
The cam specs look perfect for a low rpm boost application with a tube header exhaust.
The cam should be installed 4 degrees advanced with the intake lobe center at 110 degrees ATDC
The valve spring should be the Howard 98411 single coil with dampener.
The engine builder should have installed the spring at a 1.700" height which would give a 110 lb closed pressure on the valve seat, also good.

Do you happen to know what ratio rocker arm was used?

Changing subject: With the large amount of torque this engine will produce you will need to look at a torque limiting arm (This time with Heim joint ends) to keep the engine from twisting and binding up the exhaust system and intercooler piping.
The arm should go from the engine over to the frame or a tall bracket connected to the frame to keep the arm angle more parallel to the ground.

There is also the matter of What type of cooling fan for the radiator?

Hope you are having fun with this project.
 
Haha I am having a ton of fun I have almost bought everything knock on wood. I'm getting super excited!!! I'm glad you like the cam specs, yeah for sure post em up. I will definitely look into some kind of arm to help support the motor. I'll check on the rocker arms. I have a fan off of a ford Taurus it fits my radiator perfectly. It's what guys use on these old vans hopefully if will do the trick for this turbo set up. So again on the turbo mount you think made out of the dimensions you said earlier that that would be enough flex? I was thinking two heim joints on the motor side and then a hard mount on the turbo side. Or would the heims still get to hot?
 
If you use a Heim joint that is metal to metal meaning it doesn't have a non metal race that can be destroyed by heat, it should be ok to use on both ends.
If you use a right hand thread on one end and a left thread on the other end you can adjust the length of the arm by turning the threaded rod between the Heim joints.
Example:
These two ends are used on a 3/8"- 24 threaded rod and are mounted with a 3/8" bolt
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard ... 29279.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard ... 29349.html

The distributor you ordered has both the crank signal and the cam sync signal encoded in the PIP signal.
The crank signal is 3 times per revolution or every 120 degrees and the cam sync signal is once every two crank revolutions or 720 degrees.

A 60 tooth crank trigger gives a much higher resolution with only 6 degrees between each crank trigger pulse which allows for more precise ignition timing especially during crankshaft acceleration.
You would then need to modify the distributor so it only generates the cam sync signal every two crank revolutions or 720 degrees. No crank trigger pulses.
 
Nice not sure might still go crank sensor then if its better. Are those heim joints metal to metal do you know? For some reason I like the idea of heim joints. But yeah my welder buddy agreed with your flexible mount idea with no heim joints.
 
pmuller9":3do9hozz said:
The Holley HP EFI has an optional cable that plugs directly into that distributor.
The Holley HP also has a self learning mode.
The universal wiring kit comes with all the cables already terminated with plugs for sensors, injectors..ect with all the sensors included.
You can also get the unterminated cables so you can make custom length cables.
Click to expand...

I'm using HP EFI on a ford 200.Overall I"m happy with it, but If you get the unterminated harness like I did, Holley Dosen't supply much information for adapting ford sensors to their efi.( They assume you are very familiar with wiring efi.) I had no trouble with making the tps and iac work,but could not get the cam sensor to work( It was a Ford 2 wire, had to switch to a three wire) Once you get the wiring done the tuning is fairly easy.
The more Holley recommended parts you use the less head aches you will have.

Like how the build is coming along :D
 
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