Turbo 240 or 300

Awesome thanks. I guess I don't know what to do. I know I travel a ton to crazy little towns. I don't want to get stranded cause of a sensor. I might just have to carry extras of all of them? I was already wondering how I order a TPS for that 65mm throttle body I used in the plenum. is it a stock sensor off a Mustang that year or is it after market like the throttle body? I'm probably going to go with all holley sensors and carry extras. I ordered the heim joints hopefully be mounting the turbo super soon! What do you have to do to the distributor to make it only send a cam signal?
 
As far as the sensors are concerned: Map and fuel pressure sensors are Holley specific. You can use stock Ford TPS and IAC sensors, they're easy to wire into the harness and they're readily available from a parts store. I believe the rest of the sensors Holley uses are GM parts (you'll have to do some research to find the GM part numbers). I think this will help with "availability" problems down the line. I would not use the Holley oil pressure sensor (it is very expensive) just use the stock Ford oil pressure and don't wire it into the computer. As far as the distributor question goes; I'm not familiar with the 300 distributor so I can't help you there.
 
Your throttle body is for a 86-93 Ford 5.0 V8 and it already has a TPS on it.
The IAC on the throttle body is also a Ford unit.

The O2 sensor is not the same as stock because the HP EFI system uses a wide band O2 sensor.

The MAP sensor is not the same as Ford. It looks like a GM sensor

The distributor has a shutter wheel with six teeth or Vanes that run between the "U" shaped Hall Effect pickup.
One of the Vanes is not as wide as the other five.
The leading edge of all the vanes are evenly spaced which are used to generate the ignition trigger.
The trailing edge of the shorter vane is not even with the other five and the signal from that edge is used to mark cylinder 1# so the system has a reference to start either sequential injection or sequential ignition with six separate ignition coils.
That is sometimes called the Cam Sync pulse.

If you remove all but one vane you only have the single Cam sync pulse.
 
Awesome thanks for all your help guys. Sounds like the sensors won't be to big of a deal I might just have to carry extras of a couple I guess. I only need one cam sync pulse right if I am planning on mounting a crank sensor? And that is better right? My plan was to take my harmonic balancer to a guy in town the dampiner doctor. He said that since I still have the set up for the twin V belts, and since I am only using one belt still, that I could use the front of the balancer to make a gear missing a tooth? Then just build a mount for the sensor, using the other bolt holes in the front of the motor that I'm not using and done that easy lol. What do ya think?
 
Sounds like a great plan!
I will have to remember the Damper Doctor for my next engine build.
Thanks for the info.

Are they in Redding, CA ?

Yes, once you have a 60-2 tooth crank sensor and a cam sync pulse, the ignition timing will be very precise and you can run ANY ignition system configuration you want.
 
Yep right hear in town. how hard will it be to mount the sensor? aka how exact does the sensor have to be to the balancer?
 
Here are the instruction for installing the 60-2 wheel kit.
Of coarse your wheel will be the teeth machined into the out edge of the harmonic balancer.
The important part here is that the sensor needs to be lined up with at least the 11th tooth after (to the left of) the missing 2 teeth when the crank is at TDC for cylinder #1.
The sensor needs to be centered over the ring of teeth with an air gap of .020"-.035"

http://documents.holley.com/199r10562.pdf

Here is the complete setup information which includes the cam sync setup.
https://forums.holley.com/showthread.ph ... nsor-Setup
 
Well what do you think it totally holds the weight and with a little more tweeking it should be in the perfect spot. But the heim joints allow for a lot of movement. Aka vibration do you think that will not be ideal when welded to the header? Or can the header handle the turbo vibration do to catching air on sick jumps? Also not sure if we should bolt the heim joints to the turbo flange that way? To hot?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ohep4y1assfnr ... 4.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oiw9469oymgta ... 8.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7f4c64hnf5ivb ... 2.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l1j4y2b530luc ... 0.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4y9qeu734tit ... 2.jpg?dl=0
 
I don't see where the arms being horizontal and that long will relieve any stress on the headers for bumps and any other up and down motion.

I was thinking more of a very rigid bracket extending out above the turbo with the Heim joint arm or arms going straight down to the turbo flange.
This way once the header and turbo are in place you can add a little preload using the Heims
Don't worry about bolting the Heim joint to the header/turbo flange if they are metal to metal.
 
Yeah with the way it is the arms hold the turbo where we need it. Due to four heims the thing has quit a bit of movement. The arms need to be that long so that the turbo is in the correct location. Ok so basically hang it from two heim joints? If I do that and don't have it pivot at the motor too the the turbo will do more of a swinging motion under the bracket. Just not sure if that will be ideal for the kind of movement the header will need?
 
:unsure: I don't get the need for those long arms, can't the header be made so the Turbo still mounts where it needs to be then a short brace or two under it and down to the block to support its weight? Good luck, it looks like you doing a real nice build up. (y) :nod:
 
The turbo is going to mount directly in front of the engine due to the dog house. There is no place right on front of the motor to mount to because of the harmonic balancer and the water pump. The closest bolt holes are the ones we are using. The arms are only eight inches. In terms of triangles yeah I was thinking of makeing an H brace out of the two arms? That definitely stiffens it up a lot and would hopefully still allow for the required flex? If that doesn't work or you guys hate that I am headed over there right now to try to make something happen. Possibly the stiff mount with the hanging (as I call them) heim joints to the turbo that pmuller was talking about
 
Ramian17":qrg1qkzx said:
Ok so basically hang it from two heim joints? If I do that and don't have it pivot at the motor too the the turbo will do more of a swinging motion under the bracket. Just not sure if that will be ideal for the kind of movement the header will need?
Click to expand...
The turbo can move back and forward as the header tubes lengthen with heat and the turbo can also swing out as header tubes expand away from the head.
The rigid hanger holds the weight of the turbo and absorbs most of the up and down motion that would normally stress the header tubes.
Am I looking at this correctly?
 
Hahaha if only I knew I'm trying to draw something right now. You are talking about the arm with turbo mounted below the arm with heim joints style mount right? Nothing about what we have already built Correct? Lol
 
Ramian17":1rkt4k5k said:
Hahaha if only I knew I'm trying to draw something right now. You are talking about the arm with turbo mounted below the arm with heim joints style mount right? Nothing about what we have already built Correct? Lol
Click to expand...
Yes that is correct.
You are also correct that a Heim needs to be at both ends. You may have to shorten the Heims to make it work.

What if you welded 3 spacers to a plate to move the plate out enough to clear the pulley.
Then weld a plate on the other end making it a "T" where one Heim would bolt to one side of the "T" and the other Heim on the other side.
The Heims would then hang straight down to the header/turbo flange.
 
:unsure: with the Turbo out in front of engine that far do you happen to have any room in the front frame rails to build a tubing crossmember under it to brace against? Good luck :nod:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top