StarDiero75":3s25dc5f said:
Ok so i want to get this straight since that was a lot
•1. Ditch my HEI and put on a Duraspark ii or one of the ones you listed
•2. Keep my 68' exhaust manifold on it and dont use the headers
•3. Use a close ratio T5 with not so tall gears in first and not so short gears in the rear, so like 2.something for first anand keep my 2.8 rear with like .8something for OD
•4. Keep to about 6-9psi for stock engine
•5. Get an electric fuel pump that can deal with the turbo
On the carb i didnt get what i should use. Is my Weber 32/36 ok or will i need to decide either a 1bbl or a 2bbl?
Id like the extra mileage so a 1bbl wouldnt be bad, but if my weber works, id think i could do even better with the small venturi.
Thanks
My recomendations.
1. Yes, talk to
wsa111 (Bill) and although you can get a MSD and Blue Strain Duraspark Through him, a Yellow Strain DSII will have an ablity to pull bakc peak advance under boost with ease.
2 Yes, but I'd use the later iron exhaust header like
derangedfords90 does
3 Yes
4 Yes. 6 to 9 psi works with a Strip Domintor fuel pump
5. No.
Never use an electric fuel pump unless you are going well over 9 psi of boost and have a thing for detail. The risk is always running it out of fuel if its got an electric pump. The Summit version of the Carter Strip Dominator can be boost referenced, and will make over 10.5 pounds per square inch with ease.
Lets be clear. My first turbos were Propane and Diesel conversions to old Fords and Holdens. V6 Cologne, and a Nissan Diesel LD28 with T03 60 turbo. You can make an insane amount of power with anthing you have in your hands if you are carefull. You learn to be carefull by learning form others who have messed up. LPG or Diesel, you won't mess those conversions up. Carb gasoline with electric fuel pump, I assure you its a risk if its over 9 psi of boost. Weber 2/36's are especially bad because a stock 32/36 is on its edge in even a 112 hp gross Ford SOHC 2 liter, and they have very specfic issues relating to PCV and fuel pressure, even before you go into a turbo instillation. They can work, but they are 110 hp net carbs stock, and to make 185 hp with a turbo in a 3.3 Falcon six, you'll have to modify a lot of other parts.
You can make anything work, but we are looking for low hanging fruit that works. Not triumphs of Engineering Over Common Sense.
By the time FirstFox and Linc200 and probably Derangedfords90 blew up there 3.3 Turbo 1-bbls, they were looking for options with better fuel delivery.
The guys who have made great power with little cost I list below. Those combinations suit turbo 3.3 engines. Fuel supply to any tubo engine must exceed deamand by a huge amount to esnure no lean out occurs under boost.
A good Holley 2300 7448 or 4412 or Autolite 2100/ Motorcraft 2150 carb will work best with a direct mount conversion. They force you to fix stuff up before you can fit them. I recomend what works. I've recommneded triple 32/36's to another guy in Canada who had been a hard core biker dude...... and the recommndation suits what the Orginal Poster is likely to be able to use. So if I told you the whys and wherefores, you'd put out the Wedding Singer Kill Me Now label
My advice is anthing traditionally used by Ford and Ak Miller, thats what works for carburation. Ak's recommendations varied, because he experimented with everything. His top selections were firstly based on his long time asociation with the Ford Autolite company (1959-1971). He then worked for Fords Motorcraft division as a consultant, and also Impco Gas
In 1967
Autolite 1101 1-bbl,
then twin H6 Jag carbs Dual singles,
then four Kihein 40 mm's,
In 1970
then triple Offenhauser (Holley 1908's at the ends, an Autolite 1100 or 1101 at the center),
In 1980
Motorcrafts 2150 2-bbl
Specfic Turbo recomendations were firstly an Impco LPG conversion with a CA 200/225/425 on a variety of adaptors from 1970 to 1986.
If gasoline turbo, he started off with a downdraft 4-BBL Holley on a Scwitzer turbo like the carb turbo GM cars, and by 1980 that was what he used.
For
easiest results, the carb can be changed to a Ford Motorcraft 2150 2-bl and you can rework the head like
Crosley's or
Stanton's direct mount carb adaptor.
CrBobcat has an example of that carb, how it's situated, and its linkage, which has all
FalconSedan Delivery's recomendations.
Note that Ford was expriementing with a variety of 2-bbl factory 200 options for the 1978 model year, and it instead re-invested in the 2.3 Turbo Carb four, which was because Ford was scared that there would be another Yom Kipper gas crunch. The best advice is to copy what Ford did in 1960 with the Strop and Holman Moody Tri Power, or the ill fated 1978 2-bbl log head. The 78 log head is a Direct Mount carb adaptor like what
Crosley or
Stanton' or
CrBobcat use.
The Weber 32/36 can do fine, but the area under the carb presents the problem. That carb, when blow thru' turboed, requires an update to a 2.5 mm needle and seat, and a
lot of other work.
Webers have very poor needle and seat valves at the float bowl, and require a differential Malplasi rising rate fuel pressure regulator and you can feed it all with either a
66Mustang6 style Carter Strip Dominator mechanical fuel pump, or electric.
I don't trust electric pumps. Ford didn't either. It took them years to phase in an intank fuel pump. Worst thing you can do to a turbo is supply aerated gasoline or insufficent gas supply so it runs out at rpm under boost.
Based on the tuning problems 90% of all EFi guys have (an inability to supply a rational, Air Fuel ratio on a loaded engine on the conditions enountered on the road), I'm adamant the electric fuel pump is Public Enemy Number One.
Does10s electric pump system works though.
Thing is, the old triple carb Offy intake with three carbs never has a fuel deficency, so three like the 1098/1100/1908 system
FalconSedanDeliveries used or the Neatherlands
JD's YFA Carters or three Weber 34 ICT or ICH's like
kevl058''s is also an excellent choice.
Note 1. US carbs
don't have float problems, and are designed for much bigger engines, and there is a parts supply which will reamin in the AutoZone books for years.
Note 2. US Mechanical Fuel pumps are the
best around if they were designed for a Big Block V8 like the Carter Strip Dominator was. Old mechanical pumps don't have issues supplying fuel to big old V8's
Note 3. US multiple carb instillations are designed around single 1-bbl carbs that did service in 200, 240, 250 and 300 cube engines, and they
don't have float delivery problems for a turbo instillation.
Note 4. In my country,
anyone who spends a cent or dollar on an EFi style electric pump fuel delivery system fast finds out that the systems are not reliable, and they are totally geared up for a narrow band of horspower with very specfic requirements for pump hanger and delivery or return lines. Return lines aren't what people like to run. 90% Of Ford fuel tanks from a 60's or 70's car will have rust in it, or totally nerked fuel lines. Going to any electric fuel pump will require a total engineering solutions, and that's not over thinking it, thats a fact.
Going electric is playing fate with fuel shut off in an accident, and risks running out of fuel at wide open throttle, or around a corner or up a hill, or reversing up a bank. Running a car out of fuel at a 1/4 full tank or at any time when you expect to have 250 hp on offer is very dangerous. My Explorer used to run out of gas on uphill bends when you throttled off. It then became tail happy. Thats just a 205 hp 4liter SUV. Ford engineered that truck really good, but after 15 years, the fuel delkivery system exhibted faults typical of all electric fuel pump cars. I have been stranded many times by electric fuel pumps. Adding an electric fuel pump to an old Ford requires other
other things to be worked through. My recommendatio is to always Eliminate it from your grocery list unless its for priming a carb that's been sitting idle for a few days.