Does10s was able to make Silvolite 1189P cast aluminium pistons survive 424 rear wheel horsepower with just a little log had and 350 direct mount Holley carb at 16 to 18 pounds of boost. Everything he has done is worth copying. His fuel delivery system ingition, turbo manifold and his trust of TurboChick Kelly, his beloved partner, was an example of how turnkey and great a nice turbo six can be. He broke only a piston wall after a frozen wrist pin, and I believe his testimonial isn't piston skirt failure. So between Does10's, Lincs200, FirstFox and Derangedfrods90, you've got a build path.
"According to Matt our cars will be elevnty billion times faster than all of yours because our carbs flow 500cfm!!!!"
hasa68mustang
Bort62,
6Sprint66,
Kirkallen are other members here with a great track record. Again, some of the truley great posts no longer have active links.
Matt ITS A SIX!!!!!"
6Sprint66 viewtopic.php?f=22&t=70797
We used to call it FordSix Peformance, but sadly, aspects of the 10000 membership are more interested in non Electronic neo Luddite ideas like removing emissions gear and hooking up gear that doesn't work.
Graciously, the two best forums for me are the Turbo forum and the the MegaSquirt Forum. Both have never really had the take up the suppliers would have liked, and its basically because people would rather bitch and moan about poor idle quality with there stock I6 than fix
the 1-bbl carb
worn out timing set
out dated ignition tune
and crankcase ventilation blow by proper emission package reduction
It is inattention to
those things that causes all that ring flutter and poor idle and excessive fuel use jazz.
The Speed Density MegaSquirt MS2 will do absolutely everything for ignition and fuel delivery for a very low fraction of the cost or rebuilding the whole 200 cubic inch in line six after its been killed by 1-bbl carb Boost. It's serviced info wise by massively smart people, and two of them have DIYAutotuning status to do shaddow sessions, and they are like Mission Control to Buzz Aldren.
a91what is the guy, and steves megasquirt tuner studio help thread is the place to go to get great help.
I'm too busy to play with MS, as I've never had any problem with Fords EECIV.
But if your gonna go turbo, MegaSquirt should be your first option before anything else. The Vintage In line head should rank neck and neck, and if you limit the revs an boost, a stock rebuilt blockl with a good cam is the next thing. I'd keep it 3.03, 2.77 with T5, or C4 with 7 1/4" 2.83, and lock down the rev limit to 5500rpm.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums ... forum.357/
The thing is that most US EFi systems work fine on the cars that have it, while I6 guys are rare, and EFi Turbo In Line Sixers, downrigth scarce!
Its designed to work with Fords EDIS, and its basically an open source EECIV without the Eddie the Iron Maiden Gate Keeper ripping the life out of every non standard performance modification like it is with the 1983 to 1995 EEEK Four!!!!.
People like
thesameguy,
Mike1157 and many others have ensured the advantages of proper modern ignition and fuel delivery are endorsed, and they have both gotten reliable rides with 100% stock Ford electronic EDIS ignition and the difference is just night and day. Jack Collins (
Mustang6), has added post after post of great advice on SDS EFi and MegaSquirt, and gone through patient explantion on how to get good results. It is to his credit that the MegaSquirt forum exists, and the fact that 90% of all posts in it are not about MegaSquirt EFi is just the state of the nation. Its that people aren't really ready to relingish the reigns on the nasty old carb, and It is what it is, and thats life Jim....
On a Vintage Inlines Alloy head, your MS2 EFi and a 278 cam would make a turbo 200 a 500 hp streeter with just the stock 200 block. With EFi and a head with 220 cfm of flow and a cam with 490 thou lift at the valve, with 14.7 pounds of boost, and the rev limiter set to 5500 rpm, the whole engine would be turn key and reliable.
Lincs200 was in addition an active member of the Turbo Forum. In 2007 before the GFC, he was away doing work overseas, getting married etc, so a lot of the links that he had are just no longer working. Its clear that no one really read his information sources, but thats common. Many are called, only to a few it's wr
otten.
As a note,
FirstFox and
Mike1157 have noted, the Poor Mans boost limiter with its bolt is flawed in certain adjustment postions in practice, although the basic idea is right. The prevading thought of having a small stock cam and the small stock 1946 Holley 1-bbl carb is a great way to wreck an engine. The piston ring clearance, the bore surface and piston type is a massively important first step. Modern engines with the post 1993 metric ring packs and plateau honed bores can stand a huge increase in boost without killing an engine. Older imperial ring pack engines just don't like to be taken past the level of stress they were used to. Adding 16 pounds of boost, and reving it past the 5000 rpm it was used to in its stock apllication will always result in ring butting or blow by. The older engines had bore texture set as coarse on the production line , and the peak to trough roughness in the bores doesn't like it when your adding a lot of boost...the rings flutter, the blow by becomes huge, and the stock PCV systems overload the chambers with blowby, leaning out the air fuel ratio even more.
Mike1157 has a fully operative 250 Maverick 1978 engine with aluminum head, a 295 degree at lash solid roller cam with 550 thou of lift at the valves and MegaSquirt Injection with a T04 turbo and its epic. Basicailly, another common old log head wreck engine, spiced up with a little Turbo charger and a lot of Service Techncians clever work. For a guy who used to run twin N20 systems, turbo charged 302 Dodge Conquests and 4.6, 351 and 460 V8 Foxes, I'm guessing an I6 Ford turbo is a little tame, but its an example of how crazy you can go.
He's run cast iron conrods before a recent rebuild (its now got earlier stronger forged rods, BMW "6 bbl" EFI "ITB's" (Independent Throttle Bodies), and a new, non intercooled turbo set up.
One very important thing is that any turbo engine with poor intake flow needs a lot of cam duration, a wider lobe separtion because it behaves like an engine at least 100 cubic inches bigger , and if you can meld togther a good 2-bbl, or three in sync simultaneous non staged carbs with a 274 or 278 degree Clay Smith cam with better than 490 thou lift at the valve, then you'll be able to unlock a lot of the extra potential a Ford in line six cylinder engine has.
George, "George's Just For Fun DIY Turbo Experiment"
/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5241
/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=43235&p=518852#p518852
used a lot of cam duration (IIRC, 291 degrees at lash, 235 degrees at 50 thou) , and lift (well over 520 thou) on a much better breathing cross flow Australian headed 250 4.1 liter engine, and found what others have found...a Ford I6 with better fuel supply than the stock 1-bbl just laps up the extra attention.
10 seond quarter miles are not just the reserve of
Does10s!
See these
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=69284&p=533586#p533586
/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=68856
/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=67835