F-250 super cab 4x4 300 Turbo

Is the 300 a 1982 engine?
If so the distributor doesn't have points unless someone changed distributor.
If the distributor has a vacuum advance canister it should be a Duraspark 2 that uses 6 reluctors and a pickup coil.

Which Holley EFI system are you lookind at using?

The stock crank is cast iron so the only way to stroke it is to use a different connecting rod with a smaller rod journal and offset grind the crank rod journal which weakens the crank.
The extra few cubes doesn't do anything for the performance of a 300 six since the bottleneck for power is the cylinder head.

Since there aren't any "Off the shelf" forged 300 pistons, is your machinist lookins at custom pistons?
The only other option is to bush the stock rods for either Chevy or Ford V8 pistons.

In either case the cylinder head needs to be completed first so you know what the finished combustion chamber volume is.
You will need that piece of info first so you can calculate the piston dish volume to get the correct compression ratio.

If you use ARP studs for the main caps the oil pump will need a spacer under it so the pump body clears the top of the stud and nut.
On the last engine I ground the stud even with the top of the nut but the clearance is with the side of the nut.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zt7gze7xqc447 ... e.jpg?dl=0

motorsickle1130":2olnf6tc said:

After talking with the machinist:

-Gotta get a cam figured and he strongly suggested looking into a complete roller set up; which I'm not too keen on after seeing the prices. It did have me wondering if it'd be possible to steal roller lifters out of something else used for cheaper, but I'm not sure I want to invest that much time into modifications. Maybe for another build if I decide to go "Full Race" or return to N/A and attempt to keep some higher power numbers. Again, with my fairly modest goals, a mild (turbo) build will get us there.
I like Pmullers cam suggestion and it seems like it would still work well even if I loose boost for one reason or another.

Click to expand...

Just for your references the Roller Lifters made for a 429 / 460 can be used in the 240 / 300 short block. Good luck on your build

bubba22349":12z0nkxo said:

Just for your references the Roller Lifters made for a 429 / 460 can be used in the 240 / 300 short block. Good luck on your build

Click to expand...

Ford 460 OEM lifters have alignment hardware that does not fit in the 300 six lifter gallery behind the side cover.
You need the aftermarket retro-fit lifters that use side bars.

Yes '82 300 engine. Looks like I'll just need a new cap (has a hole), clean up the guts, solid state kit, and new gear; should be good to go.
That reminds me: I still need to try and find some casting "stamps" on the engine.

Holley Sniper EFI.
Will most likely run me between $1600 and $2000 when that system is all said and done. Throttle body, in tank fuel pump, and high flow in line filter already total $1350 from Summit. Also doing new hard lines, will need a tubing bender, flare tool, fittings, flexible line, etc.
{ouch, just looking at the total dollar figure makes me feel non-commital. I could set up a Holley 750, with a stand alone O2 sensor, and all new lines for less than half that}

I'd read about the offset grind on the crank for stroking, which is a no go for me, in addition to the clearancing required.

He had mentioned using chevy pistons, since they'll be easier to come by, and he may already have a set. He had also talked about chevy rods being an option if I wanted, but I'll stick with the stock rods and bush them.

For the head, I've been tasked with finding a similar year that's junk so we can cut it apart and see what we've got to work with for extra material.

Thanks for the heads up on the oil pump. How thick of a spacer or we talking? something like .050 or more like .500?

I saw some of the threads on 385 series roller lifters, and it seems like it would be a good use of money if I were planning a more radical build, but I just can't justify the extra cost or time it would take to make it work. I'll stick with a standard hydralic flat tappet on this one.

I've given too much time thinking about dual tank one pick up syste.
in the end one tank one pick up is the logical soluion.
here is why I say that.
what u gonna do about return fuel?
in one tank, when both are full risks overfilling.
blocK off a tank, takes forever to fill both.
what about venting?
it just never made sense to me .

in the end rip out the saddle tank have a big tank built to fit between frame rails.
with a 3 inch fI'll tu be to rear tank , you might have what u want....

HIGH VOLUME PUMPS
why do we even need them?
what part of the engine has been so drastically modified or what service will the engine see that is so far out of factory design spec. that higher volume is needed?

motorsickle1130":2j54bccs said:

Thanks for the heads up on the oil pump. How thick of a spacer or we talking? something like .050 or more like .500?

Click to expand...

I made a .060" aluminum spacer and still had to grind a notch in the pump housing.

If I have to do it again I will make the spacer thick enough so the oil pump housing doesn't need to be modified which means a longer hex oil pump drive shaft and modify the pickup so there is the correct clearance to the oil pan.

The Crower turbo cam I posted is designed to work with the HD log exhaust manifold.
It is the reason for the 114* LSA and shorter exhaust duration.

SDiesel-
Buxton!?
Ha, I just moved outa Hillsboro last year. I couldn't convince the wife to move outside Forest Grove or Banks so now we're down by Corvallis. It's dangerous down here.... Lotsa young ladies... Lots. :nono:

Anyway, I see what you mean by why bump the oil pump, but he's the engine builder and it's one of his rules. Doesn't hurt my feelers either way.
I also thought it would be nice to get the rear frame area back for a spare, though with 35s, I'm not sure how much room I've got....
I may just fab my own tank in the end, like you say, for simplicity and capacity.
LMC truck does have a 38 gallon retrofit for the rear. That's probably the easiest/quickest option.
I'm pretty sure the original tanks are crusty, as I replaced the inline filter at the selector, and it still flowed, but had plenty of little red crusties coming out the supply end. I may cut it apart to see how bad it is.

Pmuller-
That makes a little more sense with the cam degreeing for use with the HD, though I'm still a complete noob for most of this stuff.
If the difference for the oil pump is .060 and grinding vs pump drive shaft and pickup, I'll probably just grind it.

Also: threw some new plug wires on it yesterday, as the old ones looked like literal garbage. Threw the timing light on it too, was showing about 6* BTDC warm at idle with vac plugged. Looked into the distributor a little more, and it sounds as though the 400 distributor has the completely wrong curve for a 429, and throws in WWWAAAYYY too much advance too fast for it, which would partly explain why it runs like crapola at heavy (not full) throttle before the secondaries open. Pretty sure the carb just got thrown on there, and also wasn't properly tuned. The more I go through this truck, the more I'm disgusted with the guys I got it from. I can also tell from all the remnants of extra parts, that at some point, this truck was set up well for towing and hauling a camper. NOT NO MORE!

EFI system just showed up. Fuel pump’s on backorder, should arrive end of January. Still need to get a new fuel tank, or retro the existing saddle tank for now after cleaning it out. Will also need new fuel lines and definitely a return line.
Also got a die grinder a few weeks ago, so will be carving on the exhaust manifold soon too, to try and take down some of the tougher parts of the casting. Still need to find a plug for the #6 cylinder port, or I’ll just stuff an EGT sensor in there for later, though I’d rather have it at the collector.
Going to try meeting up with the machinist again on Thursday to nail down price and final build plan.

Wife and mom also got me a (kinda weird) elevated work platform creeper thing for Christmas, but after laying on the genders of my old diesel, this thing might actually save my back.

I’ve been focused on my bathroom(s) remodel the last month, but am getting close to wrapping up one bathroom, so will hopefully have more time for the truck build.

Happy new year, all.

Met up with the machinist last night. Talked about a lot, but with regards to the motor he’s pushing pretty hard for me to find a forged crank to use, get away from re-using the stock rods, and go to custom forged pistons to save on labor. Looked at some Eagle rods w/ BBC specs (6.200” long, with a 2.200” bearing journal) that would necessitate doing a very mild offset grind on the crank that would also (I can’t remember the correct term) round the bearing surface length wise (see pic). The stated intent is to reduce as many sharp 90* in the rotating assembly in order to reduce, what would be called in construction, point loads.

Reasoning that between just added reliability but also wanting to account for any possible increases in boost pressure (I’m now thinking occasional bumps up to 14psi, depending upon system efficiency), these modifications will help counter any possible stresses.

He also urged me to really consider a roller cam for the sake of reducing drag on the motor, with again, increased reliability, but also having more options when it comes to oil (not having to use zinc, and thicker oils).

Im going to try scrounging in a yard for a forged crank in my free time(?), whenever that is. Until then, I’ll probably end up dragging this build out a little longer, since the parts list is getting pretty spendy by my standards.
I’m going to do a full tune up on the 429, redo the fuel system, install the EFI, and work on the steering/suspension for now, while trying to collect more info and parts.
I wanted this, right?

The 300 rod journal is 2.123" so the standard BBC rod is too big at 2.200"
The small journal BBC rod which fits a 2.100" journal will work and can be found in a 6.385" length.

Eagle no longer makes the small journal BBC rod but Molnar and Compstar still do.
Molnar CH6385NTB8-A
Compstar CSB6385DS3B9AH

The cast iron crank has not had a problem with low rpm high torque applications. It is rpm that breaks the crank
There have been several that have really pushed the crank with high boost turbocharging without a problem.
If you want a new industrial crank get one of these.
We checked one for trueness and material and it appears to be cast steel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crank-shaft-fo ... SwGtRX1wsr

Bullet Cams is the go to for billet roller cams for the Ford 300.

If you use an oil designed for flat tappet cams you should not have a problem.
I use Driven (Joe Gibbs) oil for break in and long term.

Thank you again Paul!
We were searching for rod journal specs at the time and must have read the wrong size in another series of posts; thought it was 2.225.

Just ran through a rough budget of parts the motor will still need, and guessing on custom forged piston cost (? $600 ?), and came up with $3000 (approx). That’s with new cast crank, custom flat tappet, 1.6 roller rockers on 7/16 studs, compstar rods (forcing custom pistons), si valves.
I’m short a few parts, and also doesn’t include labor.
I may stretch this out a bit longer and roll with the crap box 429.

Joe gibbs, whoever he is , has worked well for me too.
so has Brad penn,.
both seem to be good oils.

you might want to give me a call up here in buxton, when in fact, I'm now in california!
but give me a call.
I own most of what u are looking for, and have more six parts than u need. but I'm looking for the right owner, as it's my entire parts collection.
look at my ad in classifieds.
Dave 503 seven zero 6 5086.
what const. company are u with currently?
I was with kiewit, which is how I landed in southern cali.

Thanks Dave, just saw your post.

Been busy with bathroom. Got all the parts and pieces for the EFI (95% sure of that), but haven’t gotten to it yet. Will most likely do a write up with pics in the applicable section when I do the swap.

I’ve got (now 2, one got messed in shipping) 38 gal retrofit fuel tank, fittings, steel hardline, Holley in tank pump, and sniper EFI set up.
The tanks (both) weren’t packaged very well in shipping, so the flanges on two sides are bent up/down. I’ll pressure test, and proceed from there. I’ve built an oil tank from scratch before, so worst case scenario, I’ll throw some booger welds at it.

I’ve put the motor build on hold, til after our kiddo is born. Wife’s going to be off work for a little while, and we’re going to need time to adjust the budget, so playing it close to the chest for now.
Til then, PARTS!!——>

Still got the truck. No progress worth reporting. Been busy.....

Oh baby!!
ur hot roddin' days are greatly diminished from here on, but that lovely smile on her face makes it worth it all.
I've givendors up a lot fer kids and it's an investment that never fails to pay dividends

just FYI, on the rods, there is only one published rod bbc big end size.
the info paul gave u is pertaining to SMALL block sizes
i.made numerous effort to verify that bbc has two sizes, and there is but one published for the entire life of that engine.
final resort Bill Castle,: barely did I form the question, and came the reply "there is only one bbc size".
there are 2 sizes in the small block catalog that correspond with Paul's info.
so it appears the small block rod is what we will need to get forgings in the 300 six

sdiesel":2fqz5jw5 said:

just FYI, on the rods, there is only one published rod bbc big end size.
the info paul gave u is pertaining to SMALL block sizes
i.made numerous effort to verify that bbc has two sizes, and there is but one published for the entire life of that engine.
final resort Bill Castle,: barely did I form the question, and came the reply "there is only one bbc size".
there are 2 sizes in the small block catalog that correspond with Paul's info.
so it appears the small block rod is what we will need to get forgings in the 300 six

Click to expand...

No! The info I gave you is correct. Do not use small block Chevy rods.
There are BBC rods with small journals.

Here is the Compstar rod for real. viewtopic.php?p=602754#p602754
Notice the SBJ designation stamped on the rod.
Also have the Molnar counterpart in hand.
Part numbers again. Molnar CH6385NTB8-A and the Compstar CSB6385DS3B4AH
Eagle used to make the rod.
Oliver rods makes several BBC small journal rods. https://oliverracingparts.com/connectin ... ll-journal

The SBC and LS rods are too narrow but a long LS rod can be used if the piston is used to control side play.

is this then a rod that was produced to satisfy crank shafts that had to be turned down due to damage or wear?
i find nothing on it except the part numbers given, so assuming the B needed to be an "s" in BBC

sdiesel":jz4ncj1b said:

is this then a rod that was produced to satisfy crank shafts that had to be turned down due to damage or wear?
i find nothing on it except the part numbers given, so assuming the B needed to be an "s" in BBC

Click to expand...

They are "off the shelf" rods that are used in high revving big blocks to reduce bearing surface velocity.
Some of the big block rod journals are as small as 1.888" as in NHRA ProStock.
Welcome to the world of racing.

If you google " Molnar CH6385NTB8-A" or "Compstar CSB6385DS3B4AH" there should be several suppliers for each.

I just purchases a set of Compstar CSB6385DS3B4AH rods from Summit. The box they came in was labeled CSB6385DS3B9AH. The packing list says the old part number was CSB6385DS3B4AH, so I guess when searching for suppliers you might search on both numbers. They sure are pretty!