Any advice on building a 200ci for a turbo?

pmuller9":2gycbben said:
The block needs to go to the shop to be cleaned and inspected.
You need to know how far the block needs to be bored to get the cylinder walls straight again and the proper clearance for new pistons.

The crank needs to be cleaned and inspected for cracks and trueness and to see how much needs to be machined off the journals to get them sized and polished for new bearings.

I suggested using the 1977 and later big log, big valve head but that's up to you.
Whatever head you use it needs to be cleaned inspected and rebuilt.
The head will need a valve job and if the valve guides are worn they will need to be done.
Valve stem seals and new valve springs and retainers depending on what cam is used.

The stock rods will need to be cleaned and inspected for cracks then resized using ARP rod bolts.
You have the option of polishing the rod beam which includes grinding off the forging lines then having them shot peened for strength.

You will want to use a forged piston.
History shows that the original intent to use a certain boost is always met with "Let's try a little more"
Can you send a link or a website I can find foraged pistons at because I didn’t have much luck finding them before
 
Timmy66":ojr8trl8 said:
pmuller9":ojr8trl8 said:
The block needs to go to the shop to be cleaned and inspected.
You need to know how far the block needs to be bored to get the cylinder walls straight again and the proper clearance for new pistons.

The crank needs to be cleaned and inspected for cracks and trueness and to see how much needs to be machined off the journals to get them sized and polished for new bearings.

I suggested using the 1977 and later big log, big valve head but that's up to you.
Whatever head you use it needs to be cleaned inspected and rebuilt.
The head will need a valve job and if the valve guides are worn they will need to be done.
Valve stem seals and new valve springs and retainers depending on what cam is used.

The stock rods will need to be cleaned and inspected for cracks then resized using ARP rod bolts.
You have the option of polishing the rod beam which includes grinding off the forging lines then having them shot peened for strength.

You will want to use a forged piston.
History shows that the original intent to use a certain boost is always met with "Let's try a little more"
Can you send a link or a website I can find foraged pistons at because I didn’t have much luck finding them before

as you are 16 i assume you have an instagram. i have a boosted 200 and run a instagram where i have documented everything. from the moment i pulled it into the garage to start the project to about 10 mins ago when i last posted. my instagram is @thatblue_67stang feel free to message me. this is my engine bay as of now. im running stock 200 and 5 psi going to 10 this summer.
lVJOjX9.jpg
 
Timmy66":2765a7rt said:
Can you send a link or a website I can find foraged pistons at because I didn’t have much luck finding them before

AFAIK there aren't any catalog forged pistons available for the Ford 200 six and that includes pistons from other engines that might fit.
The least expensive custom forged piston would be from AutoTec.
They will be a forged 4032 aluminum alloy piston
http://racetecpistons.com/

You get to specify all the piston dimensions, piston pin height, piston dish volume, overbore size and the type of piston rings.
This way the piston is set up for the correct compression ratio for the head's combustion chamber volume and you save on having to do extra maching to the block and head.

I talked to Randy this morning and a set of six flat top pistons is $525 and a set of dish piston is $562.50.
Price includes the .912" piston pins.

If you use the later model big valve, big log 62cc chamber heads you can use flat top pistons.
If your present head has the smaller 52cc chambers you will need the dish pistons.

Your machinst will determine what overbore size piston is needed to clean up the cylinder walls.
 
I talked to Randy this morning and a set of six flat top pistons is $525 and a set of dish piston is $562.50.
Price includes the .912" piston pins.


... very interested in the forged pistons discussion for us novices. Are rings and wrist pins included or available with pistons from Autotec or use do you use OEM replacements?.

thanks
 
powerband":26pwyib4 said:
... very interested in the forged pistons discussion for us novices. Are rings and wrist pins included or available with pistons from Autotec or use do you use OEM replacements?.

thanks

Pistons include fitted wrist pins.
Piston rings are not included.

The pistons are set up for whatever set of rings you choose.
I prefer the the 1/16" ring set over the stock 5/64" ring set.
If you going for fuel mileage you can use low tension rings.

Here is a piston from the last set of AutoTec I used in a 300 six.
Dish volume is 10cc and my name engraved on the pin boss is worth an extra 10hp. :LOL:

[image]https://www.dropbox.com/s/ccbpp904l9gjc67/300%20piston%202.JPG?raw=1[/image]
[image]https://www.dropbox.com/s/v25yeobb4553m0o/300%20piston%203.JPG?raw=1[/image]
 
I know it’s been a while but I just wanted to post an update of the engines progress I have had it at a well known machine shop near me and the project has snowballed into a more serious build so far the engine has been bored 0.030” over the Block has been line bored and decked new cam bearings installed and freeze plugs he ordered custom diamond race pistons for it and he picked flat tops which has me a little concerned but I haven’t heard bad about him by anyone so I’m having faith I got a copper head gasket made by Clark gasket custom made and as far as the head goes he is installing stainless 289 valves in it milling the head and installing new valve guides I am planning on running a Holley 2300 super sniper EFI system on the car I was wanting to know if I am going it the right direction if there are any suggestions or concerns and with all of these changes if anyone has a good idea of what boost could be run
 
What is the Compression Height of the piston pin on the pistons that were ordered?
What is the combustion chamber volume in the head?

If the head has the stock 52cc chambers and the flat top pistons have the stock 1.511 CH, the compression ratio will be around 10:1 which will be high for turbocharging.
You really want the compression around 9:1.
 
pmuller9":3naknfbf said:
What is the Compression Height of the piston pin on the pistons that were ordered?
What is the combustion chamber volume in the head?

If the head has the stock 52cc chambers and the flat top pistons have the stock 1.511 CH, the compression ratio will be around 10:1 which will be high for turbocharging.
You really want the compression around 9:1.
It is the stock head he has not started on it yet I can check the order form for the pistons when I get home but I guess I should give him a call is there anyway to correct the compression ratio through the head
 
The 1966 head has a 51 to 53cc chamber.
The 1969 and later 200/250 heads have a larger 62cc chamber that will bring the compression ratio down for turbocharging.
 
pmuller9":2yipr0f0 said:
The 1966 head has a 51 to 53cc chamber.
The 1969 and later 200/250 heads have a larger 62cc chamber that will bring the compression ratio down for turbocharging.
Ok thanks I will have to look into the pin location I think he may have done something with it because I remember when I got the pistons in at TDC the piston was not completely level with the deck of the block
 

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pmuller9":2t7stmfu said:
Do you have the block so you can measure how far down the piston is from the deck?
Yes I have the whole rotating assembly at home I’m putting the engine together I’m at work right now
 
This is the spec card that came with the pistons hopefully this will give you a better idea what I’m working with it says comp height is 1.500
 

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The piston will be .030" down in the bore with a 1.500 CH.
Add that to a .050" thick head gasket and the compression ratio is 9.3 if the block deck was not machined.
That is based on a 52cc head chamber

If you get the chance measure the piston to deck clearance to see what it really is.

Don't let your machinist mill any off the head.
 
For our little air restricted engines:-

Always over cam a Turbo at lash and at 50 thou duration.
Be okay with too much compression.
Never let any cylinders starve out of fuel.
Its okay to go too big on a turbo sizing.

For conrods, stock forged steel with better rod bolts.

The best log head is the 52 cc chamber 170 C9 style. It has better low lift flow, more peak cfm flow...about 132 cfm verses about 125 cfm per port. If a 3 to five angle vlave job with a backcut valve is done, the cfm will go up even more.

The peak power is still limited to 180 hp before turbos boost ratio is added, and the 6 cylinders conspire a joint duty cycle theft from neigbouring cylinders to a typical direct mount 4412 Holley 2 bbl baseplate hole of 5.4 square inches can potentially under supply some cylinders.

The Holley Sniper 2300 2 injector Throttle body will work great if it has the right Holley recomended ignition.

As long as the peak advance is pegged back and you work within Holleys recomended fuel and timing process, tjen youll be good. I strongly recommend an iron header and the Power Nation video for the Chev truck turbo 292 opposite side of intake Sniper set up.

You grab a sump, and extend it down and place an 80 stainless pipe through it, and place a crossover to you CSX or whatever turbo.

Cam I'd use is the Clay Smith wide LSA 278 that 64FastRanchero used on his sawn off log444 hp 250 Turbo Fox Fairmont, and rods will be protected by having a turbo.a little to big, with a compression a little too high and a managememt system clever enough to handle the racket.
 
pmuller9":ocripbqv said:
The piston will be .030" down in the bore with a 1.500 CH.
Add that to a .050" thick head gasket and the compression ratio is 9.3 if the block deck was not machined.
That is based on a 52cc head chamber

If you get the chance measure the piston to deck clearance to see what it really is.

Don't let your machinist mill any off the head.
Ok I’ll order stuff to measure it and I’ll let my machinist know as far as that goes saying it a 9.3 compression should I be safe at that
 
The 200 six can get away with higher compression than the big sixes and if you are using low boost 9.3 should work fine.

You will need a dial indicator and degree wheel to check the cam timing when you install the cam.

For now you can use a feeler gauge under a flat edge across the cylinder deck.
 
pmuller9":323vgu65 said:
The 200 six can get away with higher compression than the big sixes and if you are using low boost 9.3 should work fine.

You will need a dial indicator and degree wheel to check the cam timing when you install the cam.

For now you can use a feeler gauge under a flat edge across the cylinder deck.
Ok then I should be able to get a measurement sooner then just have to get around to it I was hoping to run higher boost for these engines about 15-20 psi but I guess I’ll see what the motor is capable of after everything is decided I’m now 17 about to turn 18 this is my first engine build I’m here to learn and hopefully have a better idea for future projects and a unique build this was my mom’s daily in the 90s a 66 mustang coupe
 
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