Draw through with nitrous

I'm kicking around a few ideas to get a little more power out of my 100 shot nitrous tri-power 200. I'm thinking of either cutting the log off and run 3 2v carbs, run 6 motorcycle carbs, or run a draw through turbo set up with 5#. I'd still be using the 100 shot with whatever setup I go with. If I were to spray with a draw through, would it be ok to have the n2o nozzles behind the turbo or should I move them in front of the turbo inlet?
 
Only comment I have is regards the draw through nitrous option.

This is a very risky process to be avoided at all times, even at low boost levels. In David Vizards "what if" blow torch discussions on SOHC Pinto nitous oxide systems from a particular 1983 book, and in another A series 1988, he discussed Excess Fuel factor in an atmosphere of added 36% oxygen nitrous provides.

In nitrous oxide systems, rather like upstream propane carburation, there is a thing called Excess Fuel Factor. Essentially, in a draw through instillation, unlit air/fuel mix is upsteam of the delivery point to the combustion chambers, rather like an old throttle body EFi system.

There is a real risk of making un-used, not yet delivered fuel air mix becoming a "Guy Fawkes" gun powder kegg of potential unlit upstream explosive.

To avoid it exploding prematurally in a volumetric area of any more than 30% of the engines capacity, you have to deliver the gasoline first to a point approx 5 inches before the valve. Then the EFF (Excess Fuel Factor) amount 5 inches before the valve.Then the 47% of the total gasoline supply as nitous oxide from a point further back than 5 inches, but not more than that, or the difference becomes a tinder box of potentially explosive volume before the intake valve.

Draw through nitous oxide systems for this Excess Fuel factor and unburnt volume of unlit upstrwam charge are very much to be avoided.
 
If you need more power why not go to a bigger shot of nitrous or add a second stage of nitrous?
 
The nitrous works great to get it moving down the line, but I can still feel the engine struggling to breathe. I especially notice this when I do not use the nitrous while in 3rd gear. The car takes off good, then it seems to have a flat spot, then starts building power again. It feels as if the intake charge can't keep up with the demand of the engine. I have noticed that if I let off the throttle and open it back up, it seems to pull again. I have my car's details in my signature.

X, I was thinking the same thing that it could potentially be a bomb if the fuel puddled up in the intake.
 
This sounds more like an air/fuel ratio problem.
Do you have an A/F ratio gauge.
If not you really need one to tune whatever combination you decide on.

If you get off of the throttle and back in it and the engine seems to pick up you may have a fuel delivery problem
Do you know if the fuel pressure to the carbs is staying up around 6 lbs?

Did you get a higher stall converter like we discussed back in Dec 2017?
 
Yes, I have a wideband a/f. It stays around 12.5- 13.5 while crusing at 3500 rpm. It briefly shoots down to 9 for a second when I stomp the throttle and idles around 13.5- 14.5 . I have installed a high stall converter, 2800 n/a and 3000 stall with the nitrous shot at 2800 rpm. Don't get me wrong, this thing runs and beats v8's, but there is room for improvement.
 
I have the fuel pressure set to around 3.5 for my carb regulator and around 10 at my nitrous system fuel regulator, it does run richer at around 10.5-1 while I'm running nitrous
 
64 200 ranchero":1l6igzi0 said:
I especially notice this when I do not use the nitrous while in 3rd gear. The car takes off good, then it seems to have a flat spot, then starts building power again. It feels as if the intake charge can't keep up with the demand of the engine. I have noticed that if I let off the throttle and open it back up, it seems to pull again.
I'm going on what you described here.
If it went flat and stayed flat then the engine being carbureted limited would be a possibility and it still could be but the flat spot in between is something else.
When you back out and open the throttle again it gets a big shot of fuel from the Accelerator pumps and takes off again.
What is the WOT air fuel ratio?

At what rpm does the distributor's mechanical advance come all in and what is the total timing without vacuum advance hooked up?

Of coarse even if you where to get this problem resolved would you still be looking for more power and if so how much more are the cast pistons going to take?
 
It has forged pistons and a Schneider 280 cam 110 lobe separation. I will get more info on where I have the wot and full timing. Initial timing is at 16 degrees and I have the vacuum advance blocked.
 
64 200 ranchero":20g4jkrg said:
It has forged pistons and a Schneider 280 cam 110 lobe separation. I will get more info on where I have the wot and full timing. Initial timing is at 16 degrees and I have the vacuum advance blocked.

any reason for the high lobe separation? bringing those lobes together will give you more overlap letting the engine pull more air in at lower rpm. unless u have built this for high rpm use.
 
Yes, I selected this cam for higher rpm use. I figured that the nitrous would help get it out of the hole. It does have a high stall converter that really helps. I'm really just trying to figure out if more flow would increase the natural power of the engine, that way the nitrous can be used as an add on rather than relying on it. I have noticed that if I open the throttle too fast while not at a higher rpm, it will start pinging and not accelerate as fast as it would if I was in a lower gear with a higher rpm. Maybe it is just the cam. I'd just like more pull in 3rd on the freeway if I hammered it. It would make sense that the cam is prohibiting this since I'd be at a crusing rpm. If I'm dragging the car, there is no lag since I shift at a higher rpm. I do plan on eventually getting a gear vendors down the road, maybe that will help. I'm running 3.40s in the rear now. I haven't made up my mind on going to 3.80 or 4.11's with the gv.
 
64 200 ranchero":1tha3a6t said:
I have noticed that if I open the throttle too fast while not at a higher rpm, it will start pinging and not accelerate as fast as it would if I was in a lower gear with a higher rpm.
You didn't previously mention having detonation. That will harm the piston and rings.
You need to know how fast the mechanical advance timing is coming in.
At what RPM does the timing stop advancing and what is the total timing without the nitrous on?
What is the Compression Ratio?
Is the water/meth injection on when it is pinging?
What octane fuel are you using?
 
Looks like I broke another ds2... I was messing around with my timing and I found that after I established 36* with my dialback timing light, the initial advance dropped to less than zero. This tells me that the advance limiter in the distributor broke. I have done this 2 other times with other ds2 distributors. All 3 distributors were recurved and working perfectly when installed.
 
pmuller9":368smvch said:
64 200 ranchero":368smvch said:
I have noticed that if I open the throttle too fast while not at a higher rpm, it will start pinging and not accelerate as fast as it would if I was in a lower gear with a higher rpm.
You didn't previously mention having detonation. That will harm the piston and rings.
You need to know how fast the mechanical advance timing is coming in.
At what RPM does the timing stop advancing and what is the total timing without the nitrous on?
What is the Compression Ratio?
Is the water/meth injection on when it is pinging?
What octane fuel are you using?
 
I will have to get a cheap tachometer to find out the rpm, I'm just pulling the carb lever till it stops advancing. I tried to set an initial advance of 16 and the timing jumped to about 49 without vac advance hooked up. I was able to set it to 10* initial and was able to get it to about 36 after messing with it. The advance plate is pretty loose. I'm going to have to send it out for another recurve. It's very inconsistent.
 
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