Has anyone tried this yet? I've got my u bends, chop saw, and ebay turbo here ready to start putting on my 250. Still figuring out the carb situation. Currently in a 1970 Torino wagon with a C4, I don't want to fight too much with the carb linkage. Looking at using a 1bbl carb or a 2bbl on an adapter. A new YF style can be found online cheap as well.
Carter RBS or YF blow through?
- Thread starter ldm314
- Start date
Suggest checking out the Holley 2300 2Bbl series . Available as the 4412 - 500 CFM or 7448 - 350 CFM versions, they are simply converted to Blow-Thru and parts, mods and blow-thru experience are all widely available. The 'Hangar 18 Blow thru mods for typical Holley 4Bbl's all are usable on the 2300'
2300 - 7448 modified for Blow-Thu (Vortech SC) on simple 2X1 adapter :
have fun
2300 - 7448 modified for Blow-Thu (Vortech SC) on simple 2X1 adapter :
have fun
ldm314":dmb94gbo said:
Yes there have been several turbo 1V cars using the Carter carbs. Linc200, plus FirstFox using a 1V Holley 1946 are a couple that come to mind and both have many posts documenting their build ups. You can search this turbo forum for those small six turbo builds. The trick is going to be in getting the fuel enrichment correct under Boost Conditions.To get you started check out FirstFox posts in below link. Good luck on your project build
First Fox Turbo build
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=66675&p=557528#p557528
bubba22349":3nc7qzew said:
That really is the trick, I think I've read through most of these threads a few times now. Not many go into much detail on the carb mods. I've got this procomp carb on the way, and a bunch of holley parts here already. Reviews are good and bad with this carb, it certainly is cheap. If there was a weber IDF adapter to the stock log, I've got all the parts here for that too from some other projects. After the dog got sick this month, the vet bills ate up most of the budget so I am trying to make use of what I can for now. Once the carb comes in, the last part I'll need is a carb hat. I'll either try to weld one up or buy one if that doesn't go well.
This weekend I am going to try and get the U pipe made from the stock manifold to the turbo. I've got some electrical gremlins to chase down as well to prepare for a new distributor.
bubba22349 wrote:
The trick is going to be in getting the fuel enrichment correct under Boost Conditions.
... For Holley forced induction, there is a Power Valve available from a few vendors that operates 'reverse' from NA . the PV is boost referenced or BAPV ( boost activated power valve). The PV opens under (settable) boost pressure from fuel bowl. Only related carb mod is epoxying the small base plate NA - PV port .
This weekend I am going to try and get the U pipe made from the stock manifold to the turbo. I've got some electrical gremlins to chase down as well to prepare for a new distributor.
A 'flex connector is recommended for J-Pipe to keep thermal Exp/Contraction from cracking/distorting.
The DS-II distributor can be a good (safe) start to a forced induction project vs' more sophisticated ignition systems ($$) . The DS-II advance arm can simply be 'locked' to a maximum centrifugal advance or use an early-70's version where the factory max advance is @ 26 degrees. (The dizzy base plate reveals the advance under the swing plate and crank is 2 times dist. )
With vacuum advance still hooked up, at cruise and anytime less than boost -the vac' will still be effective adding to total advance but negated as intake vac switches to pressure.
13R = 26 degrees max:
have (boosted) fun
The trick is going to be in getting the fuel enrichment correct under Boost Conditions.
... For Holley forced induction, there is a Power Valve available from a few vendors that operates 'reverse' from NA . the PV is boost referenced or BAPV ( boost activated power valve). The PV opens under (settable) boost pressure from fuel bowl. Only related carb mod is epoxying the small base plate NA - PV port .
This weekend I am going to try and get the U pipe made from the stock manifold to the turbo. I've got some electrical gremlins to chase down as well to prepare for a new distributor.
A 'flex connector is recommended for J-Pipe to keep thermal Exp/Contraction from cracking/distorting.
The DS-II distributor can be a good (safe) start to a forced induction project vs' more sophisticated ignition systems ($$) . The DS-II advance arm can simply be 'locked' to a maximum centrifugal advance or use an early-70's version where the factory max advance is @ 26 degrees. (The dizzy base plate reveals the advance under the swing plate and crank is 2 times dist. )
With vacuum advance still hooked up, at cruise and anytime less than boost -the vac' will still be effective adding to total advance but negated as intake vac switches to pressure.
13R = 26 degrees max:
have (boosted) fun
ldm314":5wlkdag6 said:
Yes almost any carb can be made to work if you are up for the challenge in tuning it and I am a huge fan of those Weber IDF carb's (they are so great a combo with an N/A IR intake). As Powerband shows in his posts a Holley 2V or 4V or a clone that uses Holley parts is the easiest tuning path to take as there is so much info and parts to do a good Turbo combo. Sorry to hear about your dog getting sick it's very hard when that happens with those vet bills hope everthing is ok now. Good luck on that Turbo project.
Thanks @powerband for the pictures and holley info. I'll try and find one of those power valves, that looks like what needs to be done. I've got my flex pipe for the outlet of the turbo, didn't think to have one on the u pipe. I plan to make some additional brackets to help stabilize the turbo if I can find a way to make that work.
This weekend was a wash. The dog is doing well, getting staples removed this week. I started this weekend by hurting my back working on the F150. Those caliper bolts are sure on tight. Trying again next weekend, and I'll have the carb in by then too.
This weekend was a wash. The dog is doing well, getting staples removed this week. I started this weekend by hurting my back working on the F150. Those caliper bolts are sure on tight. Trying again next weekend, and I'll have the carb in by then too.
... looks good, typical center hung float - manual choke 2300.
... typical blow-through mods may include milling (cutting ) choke horn, sealing choke riser linkage hole, smoothing bowl. Adding ports to PV or carb hat area as needed, sealing or pressurizing throttle shaft, welding throttle linkage plate to shaft, alterations to metering block and Power Valve circuits, , solid float, jet extensions, fuel bowl anti-slosh vent. With 'blow-through" setups, the carb jetting often is surprisingly conservative and I caution against enlarging meter block circuits before some true AFR observations. Last, fuel bowl vent extensions into charge tube is often necessary road tuning addition.
... if possible, running carb on an engine before mods can be helpful.
.. the 2300 bible
http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html
have fun
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... typical blow-through mods may include milling (cutting ) choke horn, sealing choke riser linkage hole, smoothing bowl. Adding ports to PV or carb hat area as needed, sealing or pressurizing throttle shaft, welding throttle linkage plate to shaft, alterations to metering block and Power Valve circuits, , solid float, jet extensions, fuel bowl anti-slosh vent. With 'blow-through" setups, the carb jetting often is surprisingly conservative and I caution against enlarging meter block circuits before some true AFR observations. Last, fuel bowl vent extensions into charge tube is often necessary road tuning addition.
... if possible, running carb on an engine before mods can be helpful.
.. the 2300 bible
http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html
have fun
. . .