Merrylegs
- Thread starter Wesman07
- Start date
Maybe
It needs to drain to the pan above the oil level in the pan.
It must be a big line (no resistance to gravity flow) that is downhill all the way.
Different thought. If you run two pipes back for the wastegates, the pipes can merge at the ends, at the gate therefore needing only one waste gate.
It needs to drain to the pan above the oil level in the pan.
It must be a big line (no resistance to gravity flow) that is downhill all the way.
Different thought. If you run two pipes back for the wastegates, the pipes can merge at the ends, at the gate therefore needing only one waste gate.
Some parts of this plan may change. I'm still thinking about manifolds a lot. Honestly, finding out that both truck motors are in decent shape has slowed me down. Its a good thing.
I pulled a large chamber head from the yard and our local machinist has cleaned and checked for cracks so far. He is going to rough out for larger valves and seats this week.
My plan as of now is to spend some quality time working on the ports over winter. The idea is to invest as little as I need to in the head until I know it came out right. Cheaper mistakes are better than costly ones.
One thing that I would really like to change is this thread title. Its really bothering me lol.
I pulled a large chamber head from the yard and our local machinist has cleaned and checked for cracks so far. He is going to rough out for larger valves and seats this week.
My plan as of now is to spend some quality time working on the ports over winter. The idea is to invest as little as I need to in the head until I know it came out right. Cheaper mistakes are better than costly ones.
One thing that I would really like to change is this thread title. Its really bothering me lol.
Not to big a deal to change, what would like it to be? 
Ok all done, best of luck on project Merrylegs.
I picked the head up from the machinist before he did any real work to it. I’d like to spend some quality time on this over the next month or two. If it turns out well, I’ll give it back to him for larger valves, harden exhaust seats, new guides and screw in studs. After that I will blend in to the seats and scribe the combustion cambers to a finished cylinder bore. Is that a good plan?
I decided to spend the 30 bucks on David Vizard's book on porting before I got moving on the head work. I'm still tossing around different tooling options, but it sounds like most people spring for the long nose die grinder with a variable speed control over something like a Foredom set up. Hearing some first hand experience is welcomed.
Maybe I'm getting soft, but I really have taken a liking to the auto trans in the white truck. Bench seats are just that much nicer to have when you don't have shifters to work around and your seat position isn't as limited. Down another rabbit hole I go...
Holley sells auto controllers so gong electric is an option. It sounds like IF I do decide to go auto, the 4R70w is what I would go with. I am having a hard time finding what a stock 4R70w is capable of handling. I do know Monster sells them for $3,000 and will hold up to 560ft/lbs. The stall is a little high at 1,900 RPM though.
This has me thinking a little more about how I want this motor to perform. There is no sense in making huge torque if your drivetrain can't take it. Whether I go with the ZF s5470 or the 4R70w, I am going to shoot for the flattest and widest torque curve reasonably possible. The amount of torque made can easily be adjusted via boost pressure.
Maybe I'm getting soft, but I really have taken a liking to the auto trans in the white truck. Bench seats are just that much nicer to have when you don't have shifters to work around and your seat position isn't as limited. Down another rabbit hole I go...
Holley sells auto controllers so gong electric is an option. It sounds like IF I do decide to go auto, the 4R70w is what I would go with. I am having a hard time finding what a stock 4R70w is capable of handling. I do know Monster sells them for $3,000 and will hold up to 560ft/lbs. The stall is a little high at 1,900 RPM though.
This has me thinking a little more about how I want this motor to perform. There is no sense in making huge torque if your drivetrain can't take it. Whether I go with the ZF s5470 or the 4R70w, I am going to shoot for the flattest and widest torque curve reasonably possible. The amount of torque made can easily be adjusted via boost pressure.
Quick up date. I found a motor for $30. Yes that’s right, two digits left of the decimal lol. I was told it over heated and was low on compression. I couldn’t get it to turn when I went to check the stroke but it’s been sitting in his shop for five years.
My wife and I are going on week two of our quarantine, she has mild symptoms and I have none. The killer is I got the news before getting the motor out of my truck. I just need to grab the fork lift from my office which is a block away. So I’m doing a rebuild on a KTM 4 stroke motor in the meantime.
I had to put down the book on porting for a bit, until my plans for a flow bench come back to reality for a one off piece that is not for competition. I am wondering if anyone here has tried a 30 degree valve seat?
My wife and I are going on week two of our quarantine, she has mild symptoms and I have none. The killer is I got the news before getting the motor out of my truck. I just need to grab the fork lift from my office which is a block away. So I’m doing a rebuild on a KTM 4 stroke motor in the meantime.
I had to put down the book on porting for a bit, until my plans for a flow bench come back to reality for a one off piece that is not for competition. I am wondering if anyone here has tried a 30 degree valve seat?
Do you mean a steeper seat angle?
https://www.enginelabs.com/features/val ... rk-engine/
https://www.enginelabs.com/features/val ... rk-engine/
Nope, shallower. I’m looking to pick up flow at low lifts.
https://musclecardiy.com/wp-content/upl ... /01/75.jpg
https://musclecardiy.com/wp-content/upl ... /01/75.jpg
Pontiac used a 30 degree seat angle way back when.
Anyway the 30* seat has better flow up to .150" valve lift and the 45* seat has much better flow from that point on.
David Vizard talked about following the 30* seat into the bowl with a 45* cut followed by a radius to help with the high lift flow.
It sounds like one has to consider the percentage of time the valve is at low lift considering ramp rate and total valve lift.
You also have to look at combustion chamber shrouding since the airflow angle has been decreased as it approaches the chamber walls.
It might be beneficial on the 300 carb head but not on the EFI head where the valves are shrouded for the majority of the valve circumference.
We found that the EFI chamber flow was behind the open chamber flow up to .350" valve lift.
You would definitely need to see what the flow bench shows and finally what the Dyno shows for a specific cam profile.
Anyway the 30* seat has better flow up to .150" valve lift and the 45* seat has much better flow from that point on.
David Vizard talked about following the 30* seat into the bowl with a 45* cut followed by a radius to help with the high lift flow.
It sounds like one has to consider the percentage of time the valve is at low lift considering ramp rate and total valve lift.
You also have to look at combustion chamber shrouding since the airflow angle has been decreased as it approaches the chamber walls.
It might be beneficial on the 300 carb head but not on the EFI head where the valves are shrouded for the majority of the valve circumference.
We found that the EFI chamber flow was behind the open chamber flow up to .350" valve lift.
You would definitely need to see what the flow bench shows and finally what the Dyno shows for a specific cam profile.
Good points. Probably not worth the effort.
I was able to slip the motor out of my truck and onto the stand with out a fork lift, hoist or second hand. No cursing or smashed parts either. I’d bet I couldn’t do it a second time though lol.
One gallon of coolant and four quarts of the thickest sludge I’ve ever seen came out of the oil pan. No rust, no metal.
After pulling the plugs it looked like the head gasket blew between cylinder 2 and 3. Gave each cylinder a healthy shot of WD40 and called it a night. It’s very possible that I bought a $30 valve cover lol.
I was able to slip the motor out of my truck and onto the stand with out a fork lift, hoist or second hand. No cursing or smashed parts either. I’d bet I couldn’t do it a second time though lol.
One gallon of coolant and four quarts of the thickest sludge I’ve ever seen came out of the oil pan. No rust, no metal.
After pulling the plugs it looked like the head gasket blew between cylinder 2 and 3. Gave each cylinder a healthy shot of WD40 and called it a night. It’s very possible that I bought a $30 valve cover lol.
A stock 4R70W is rated at 700ft/lbs *of input torque.* A stock 4R70W is not rated for the torque you are wanting to make because of torque converter multiplication. It can handle the torque you plan if built up more with upgrades, but overall longevity could arguably be of concern. It is not as robust as the E4OD that was the only offering behind the 4.9L and for heavier duty GVW trucks for a reason, but it is a more expensive transmission to rebuild or modify from what I have seen. The control strategy for the E4OD is just as simple as the 4R70W, but I do not know if Holley covers the strategy also. A factory E4OD rating is unknown, but it would also need upgrades to a stock 4.9L unit at the torque you plan. Using factory upgraded parts for the later year 4R100 in the E4OD should cover the torque you want as its input torque rating is 1000ft/lbs. Monster transmissions would not be my choice from the reviews and stories I've seen online. 4R70W vs E4OD/4R100 is akin to C4 vs C6 in strengths.Wesman07":lraj1i9r said: