CI'd, Fitech'd, turbo 200

Hey guys-
I've been here for a bit, mostly lurking, but thought I'd share how far along I have come on my build. I bough my car in 2014 as a 65 2+2 with a 6 and 3 speed. I had purchased the car because it was a fastback and it was a solid car that I could afford. I started just making sure that the engine would run and stop safely. Over time I added v8 disk brakes, redrilled the rear end for 5 lug, then went full v8 suspension, T5, rewired the car, rebuilt the entire suspension, rebuilt the engine, added a CI head, added fitech, and tracked the car down at Willow Springs with the Shelby Club. I always enjoyed the feedback from those guys that were surprised at how well my little 6 ran.

This summer I decided to turn the wick up a bit. After talking to a few guys (and thanks to Pmuller) I went to work.

I had picked up a Will-made turbo header a while back that was to be lynchpin of the setup. Turns out that his headers/downpipe combo don't really work with the CI head/intake. I had the header modified and a new downpipe made by a local shop. While the car was there I had them also make my charge pipes. I picked up an ebay turbo setup as I didn't want spend a bucket of money if I decided to turn back. I made sure that I put everything together with serviceability and being able to source replacement parts in mind.

My long block wasn't taken apart- I'm still running a stock 65 crank/rods, with 2.3 HSC cast pistons (~9.9:1), as specified by the Falcon handbook. With my old cam and the fitech, that setup put out 185 rwhp at 5500 rpm. I figured that with 1) low boost, 2) an intercooler, and 3) a TBI setup I can keep my intake temps under control.

I ended up with a GT35-style turbo (.63AR) running a total of 7.5lbs of boost. I swapped the cam with a custom ground one from Schneider (272-270 .508/.487 114LS). I also upgraded to a fitech 600PA to handle the boost/fuel/ignition. Thanks to Bill for the locked out Duraspark- it works great with the motor and the fitech. So far I have seen intake air temps a high of ~100F when I was in some stop and go traffic, and once underway, it's about 95F on a 95F day.

I will say that without a doubt, WOW! Why did I wait so long to do this? There have been some headscratchers ( how do I phase a distributor without an adjustable rotor, backfires due to timing, then backfires due to radio noise), but I am feeling like I have figured it out. It pulls HARD from about 2500-3000. I had a Factory Five Cobra with a 345 horse 302 before this car and when this thing is on boost, it feels just like that car did! Anyway, I need to get the car tuned and dyno'd, so that is next. Can't wait for the next track day!

I still don't know how to post pics, but here's a shot of the setup as I ran it yesterday. Thanks all!



https://photos.app.goo.gl/R4bTR9gC7ghu8K8h7

Looks great!

Looks great!

Holy cow - if looks, fit and finish are any indication, you did an awesome job.

Beautiful Job!

I'd do something about that "Hot Air Intake Filter". You need to enclose the filter and pipe cold air from outside the engine compartment.
I've seen to many people install those cold air intake cone filters expecting an increase in HP, but in reality the intake charge temperature increases and the HP drops.

Otherwise, nice setup.

great job everything is packaged so as to fit well and it's nicely detailed! X2 yes, you could probably pick up a good bit more power on the street and for track use if you could find a way to get some colder outside air to Turbo intake. A couple places that would work are the area just under the front bumper through the splash apron up under the front fender then into engine compartment, or a quick way for track use through the passenger side head lite. Good luck

There's a set of oval shaped holes in the core support that are giving some air right into the inlet, but no doubt that will be an improvement for the future.

I forgot to mention that I also modded by oilpan to be a "T" when I had to do the oil return; I added an oil temp gauge, some simple baffles and ended with almost 2 extra quarts of oil.

Sounds like a well designed oil pan these motors really need the baffling to keep the oil around the oil pump pick up tube. Did you happen to take any pictures of the details of the T pan you built?

Looks very nice
How is your hot oil pressure doing now with the turbo ?

drag-200stang":1kx3kiij said:

Looks very nice
How is your hot oil pressure doing now with the turbo ?

Click to expand...

I shimmed my oil pump with a washer, and was able to increase the pressure by ~5-7psi. Warm at speed it's about ~35psi; at warm idle, it's about 15. I consulted with my builder and he remembered that he set the bearing tolerances a bit looser when he built it, which explains the lower pressures I was experiencing prior to the turbo.

Cruising oil temps are about 205*; I have an oil cooler with a Setrab 190* thermostat; it's from an MGB that I relocated to behind the driver's side headlight. I cut a hole as there is a clear run for the air to come in from the grill and exit into the front wheel well (where the cooler sits). Hottest I've seen it is about 230-240 when I was breaking the cam in (sitting still and holding revs). I think that the added oil capacity is giving some added heatsink capabilities.

Gus, I am a little late to this topic. I don't know how I missed it??

Nice work! Who rebuilt your turbo manifold? Do they still have a pattern? I would love to buy one for a down the road project.

Nice work very well put together.

Your video is up! I hope you get it figured out. Car looks great!

Yes, congrats on your build, and the fame!

Gus
The engine was running ok on the street?
What happen during the dyno run?

All I can think of is are you using a "power adder" FiTech and is the MAP sensor working?

Per the video, it was leaning out and they couldn't add enough fuel for full power runs.

Per this thread, it is a 600HP "Power Adder" model.

The "Fitech Engineer" commenting on the video seemed to think they had the external MAP sensor hose connected and it shouldn't be for a blow through application. I can't see in the video well enough to tell exactly how it is plumbed, so I'm not sure if that really is the case. Still, I have doubts that it would cause a major lean condition under boost without knowing the whole story.

Since we are guessing, I'll guess that there is an injector issue and one or more isn't firing. It's a common issue with the Fitech TBI to have from a poor electrical connection(injector clip) and/or trash from manufacturing or fuel plumbing install. It will be able to compensate and have enough fuel to run fine at idle and low load, but not high loads and/or boost.

The engineer is correct.
The front nipple is only used for a supercharger (Draw Thru) where you need boost reference from the intake manifold.
For a turbocharger blow thru the nipple needs to be capped or else the boost reference signal to the internal MAP will be low causing a lean condition.
See page 4 figure 6 of the installation manual.

pmuller9":3giuikvc said:

The engineer is correct.
The front nipple is only used for a supercharger (Draw Thru) where you need boost reference from the intake manifold.
For a turbocharger blow thru the nipple needs to be capped or else the boost reference signal to the internal MAP will be low causing a lean condition.
See page 4 figure 6 of the installation manual.

Click to expand...

Maybe. Without knowing the exact symptoms and the exact plumbing on the car it is all a guess.

If the port is plumbed to the distributor advance as it looks in the video, the MAP reading will be affected during transient response and accurate at steady state, unless there is a restriction in the line and leak at the distributor. In any case, the front port needs to be capped with a high quality(not rubber) cap.