CORTINA WENT 12.7@107 MPH

DYNOED250

Well-known member
WELL thanks every one one here for youre help, we done 2 12.7's but the printer at calder was rogered for them 2 runs i know it sounds like a cop out... THe last run i hurt the motor (bent push rod) at half track, she still ran 12.801 @???? as the tore the sheet of to short here is a pik of it..

Any one wants to know the motor combo PM me, its NA no turbo no nitros no slicks... running 205/65/15's


http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/946/dsc015033ty.jpg
 
That's just evil. Hmmm, well have to bolt some pig iron or lead ballast to the floor plan to slow 'em down...
 
yes guys first time out at the track.... THe best thing i ever done was go Auto.... with a manual you want a wide power band with the auto and 4000 stall it only has to make decent power from 3800-6000 any thing else doesnt matter.. THe 1.9 60 ft times on 205/15's took some doing. Ill reply to every ons pms soon just a bit flat out at the moment,

I bent 2 push rods on the 12.8 pass at half track... not bad on 5 pots i think :>
 
congrats, ive been waiting for your run down the 1/4.

Nice to see the crossflow making big hp.

How streetable is the engine now?

I wonder what you would run with some wider tires or even slicks?

What psi where the tires at?

Pete
 
Things i can in prove....

Get the 2nd TB working and tuned.
Slicks- 225 wide (un tubbed)
Cold air (Air intake temp is 50 DEG)
Diff gears from 3.7-3.9's
Better fuel (only runing 25 deg total ignition)


THe above should see a low 12 im hoping

For those guys that asked in pm and havnt read my engine combo before

1. 2v Clevo Valves C2 Alloy head extensive porting
2. Inject fuel injection
3.400 cc injectors
4.Custom efi intake
5.pace maker pipes
6.11.5 comp
7. WAde 260@0.050 cam with 560 lift (solid)
8. balanced crank/rods/pistons.
9.200 rods ARP bolts
10. c9 auto 4000 stall
11 3.7 diff

Other than whats up there there isnt realy that much to it. ITs extremly streetable thanks to the converter. As long as u dont mind paying for fuel

pluss fixing this
http://img359.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 5053ct.jpg
 
That pushrod looks like it might be bent. Maybe check it before putting back.
 
yup i bent it good................. the front one is bent as well :>... Arh well thats the fun of having a 250 :>
 
Id love to get high 11's but thats A LONG way from high 12's ... Ive got alot of develop ment to do yet.. YEs there stock push rods, would rather break one than somthing thats worth heaps
 
yup i bent it good................. the front one is bent as well :>... Arh well thats the fun of having a 250 :>
 
Everyone wants lower ET;) Do you have a goal in mind n/a?

Why dont you take the compression back up and run water/alcohol injection. Im looking into this atm and its very promising with lower emissions, bonus.

Pete
 
Yes i want to get to a low 12/ high 11.... its a goal to aim for. so i figure why not..
If the car gets a DEFECT from the cops then i will consider alcohole injection with lots of comp....
 
hey dynoed i have bent a few push rods and was sick of changing them so i now have some crow crome molly ones it was cheap and they don't bend. i have had no problems with them since except the motor spat one out and it went down the oil return hole hit the crank and snapt in half. i think it was only $200 for 16 of them.

Aaron
 
Hey there mate, I couldnt get the pic of what I suppose was your bent pushrod to work. However, I used to have the same problem of bending pushrods in a 250 stroker motor I have.

As I said, I cant see the type of pushrod your using, but I found that Ford made standard length pushrods for these motors that tapered at the end.

I found that having a high lift cam and standard rocker arms, that the push rod would quite often bend at the top from hitting the rocker arm at full lift. These tapered pushrods fixed that problem up no worries. However, I have no idea what particular motors they were in, as I found them in a huge bundle of Ford six pushrods I had in the workshop.

Hope this rather vague info helps a bit.


Lee.
 
The tapered push rods are used in the CAST iron head 250 cross flows. THey are slighly shorter than the alloy head ones... but im guesing the must be a bit stronger. :> i might try a set next batch of push rods.
im running rp3200 sealed power ones... nice and cheap
 
Back
Top