Oh so VERY excited!!

Just went around to a guys house the other night to look at an engine he is selling - A BA Dohc turbo engine, complete with everything! And is priced cheeper than i can build my OHC engine!

Hum XF DOHC TURBO UTE!!!!!!!
:roll:

Watch this space for results

BTW it also has a Tremec 5spd and clutch and pedel box and everything!!

Also BTW - Just in case you dont already know - DONT LET YOU 15 YEAR OLD SON ON HIS LEARNERS LICENCE ANYWHERE YOU TURBO FALCON UTE! THE INSURACE COMPANY WILL JUST LAUGH AT YOU WHEN YOU TELL THEY YOUR SON'S ROLLED IT DOWN A BANK ON A GRAVEL ROAD!!!

Oh well his loss my gain

It will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine

Its mine! Mine! ALL MINE!

This is going to be crazy! A BA Dohc Turbo engine into a XF Falcon Ute! I never would have beleived I'd ever get my hands on one of these, and now it's sitting in the shed.

Xmas has come early, and I cant wait till I (we) start working on it. I'll keep everyone posted on how things go, and any problems we encounter.
But so far teh biggest headles I can think of so far will be: Binning the fly by wire throttle body, the smart sheild, and the Hydrulic clutch conversion.

You lucky bâtard.

On second thoughts, did you have to evoke the Pointer Sisters? :roll:

Excellent!

Brother, you don't know that the 661 pounds the engine won't have to carry is like running a hotted up 270 F6 Tornado...with 290 Killer watts. That's enough to do 13 seconds.

Don't be afraid to leave everything there. The features must be present for it to run well.

Don't be afraid to tig weld the sump up to clear the X-member, or put a newer XH stlye mounts on the BA block. The block is hell for strong, and won't mind a few surgical cuts to clear.

The turbo will foul the spring towers, so don't be afraid to Big Friendly Hammer any thing.

Don't try and ditch all the stuff, there are guys in the trade who will help you transer the engine into the earlier XF Falcon.

Some Ford guy in the company will help you out.

What your doing will transfer over into the American X-shell 60-70 Falcons, Cometes, 62-68 Fairlanes, 70-78 Mavericks, 75-80 Granadas, 69-71 Torinos... when they've seen what you've done, they'd like a piece of a 321 hp engine in a car way lighter than any BA Falcon.

High 14 second quarters in a Yanky Six, or low 13's in a 3090 pound XF ute!

xecute®™© he he":34g41jva said:

Excellent!

Brother, you don't know that the 661 pounds the engine won't have to carry is like running a hotted up 270 F6 Tornado...with 290 Killer watts. That's enough to do 13 seconds.

Don't be afraid to leave everything there. The features must be present for it to run well.

Don't be afraid to tig weld the sump up to clear the X-member, or put a newer XH stlye mounts on the BA block. The block is hell for strong, and won't mind a few surgical cuts to clear.

The turbo will foul the spring towers, so don't be afraid to Big Friendly Hammer any thing.

Don't try and ditch all the stuff, there are guys in the trade who will help you transer the engine into the earlier XF Falcon.

Some Ford guy in the company will help you out.

What your doing will transfer over into the American X-shell 60-70 Falcons, Cometes, 62-68 Fairlanes, 70-78 Mavericks, 75-80 Granadas, 69-71 Torinos... when they've seen what you've done, they'd like a piece of a 321 hp engine in a car way lighter than any BA Falcon.

High 14 second quarters in a Yanky Six, or low 13's in a 3090 pound XF ute!

Click to expand...

Well initial mesurements have been done and the turbo will fowl the shock tower, So it looks like a custom top mount manifold is going to have to be built (Cool this will make the engine bay look flasher too!)

As for everything else, I'm still looking at making a custom inlet plenum (I've got a Nizpro Cobra inlet I can copy) Just to shorten the inlet length, and I will upgrade the valve springs before the engine goes in, and will look at a flash tuner once I get bored with the factory power output.

I have heeps of assitance from the local ford dealer and a VERY switched on auto sparky (Good mate of mine and ex owner of the ute) so I can't for see any problems, and if there is I'll still make it work, or failing that we've already got a AUIII VCT XR6 lined up to drop it into!

But the next project might be interesting too? The supercharged 3.8 V6 in the 1999 Mustang is proving to be a little problematic, but we have been offered a BOSS 260 + 5spd etc etc for good money! Humm 5.4 DOHC Mustang - Bet the lads in the states will be interested in that!

Ok so I'm going to try and put up some pictres taken today of the DOHC engine sitting in the engine bay. Here Goes

OK so heres the news so far.
EA engine mounts bolt streight onto the BA block, and the engine will sit perfectly on them. Problem1 - The engine sits to high on these mounts and the bonnet won't close. Problem2 - The AU/BA sump is much larger than the EF/EL tin version in the front and fouls the XG type sway bar (XF version would be worse as it sits even further back).
Have made a spacer that bolts onto the block, that relocates the engine mounts 25mm higher up the block (Caution left and right mount spacings are different - forgot about that!) The left mount spacer is more dificult to make as it requires relief around the oil filter mount and the oil pressure/turbo feed fitting.
In hind sight I think 25mm was to much as I now have the engine fitting under the bonnet but the front pulley and alternator are touching the front cross member. To fix this I am going to space the mounts that bolt onto the chassis up 5mm (Yeh I know sounds fiddley, but its going to work (I hope)). Space under bonnet might get tight and I still might have to cut a small section of the bonnet frame out.

Gearbox shifter sits back futher than the old four speed auto did. We had stiched in the 'hump' out of a EB auto for the Auto an d4.0 OHC engine but this time around I've just cut the hole a bit bigger. Sould still look factory with the shifter boot in place.

Power steer pump is slightly different from EF to BA, The EF version comes in from the back, where as the BA's come's in from underneath, so a quick visit to the local hydrulics man and a extra 90 deg swivel bend installed, and everything is happy.

I'm not planning on running the AC and at teh moment the pump is just being used as a idler for the drive belt, but I will end up atapting the EF non AC idler onto the engine.

The coolant pipe that goes behind the head fowls the fire wall if left in place. The EF type on sits down lower ontop of the bell housing but there is a sensor there in the BA engine. Hoping to do a bit of mixing and matching, Also the XF heater pipes are on the oppersite side to the BA ones so more mixing and matching needs to be done there.

OK so thats what I know, and can remember so far. Will post more as I do more/ find this out. PM or email me if anyone needs to know anything specific.

BTW Found the rear exhaust cam sersor has been damaged by someone BUGGER, not really wanting to know how much that'll cost!

You'll be right, any BA/MK2/BF sensor is bound to fit.

The spacing of the engine up in the frame by pads is fine, and the Pontiac Firebird with 455 cube engines had metal strips and welded bolts spacing the engine to the engine and the then to the rubber bonded motor mounts. So revisit doing yet another drill up on the block flitch plates, and don't stress it any. I've seen Nissan LD28's, like the one in my XC, fit with new base plates being 45 mm different on each side, so 5mm is nothing. As long as all the bolts retain things in full shear, and are mated to new or good conditon engine mounts, you'll get it there.

People can't make BA to XF engine mounts unless they get them from you. And what fits a XG, fits an XF, XE, XD, XC, XB, XA, XY, XW, XR...get the deal?

If you need any details or help with certification, drop us a line at fordrfrauds@paradise.net.nz.

The X-shell is nice and soft, so a check for whats behind the firewall, and then a nice swift hit with a big friendly hammer and you'll have space.

The engine is taller at the front edge where the VCT control is, thats why the BA on Falcons got the big bonnet.

The sump is also a veritable coffin. However, there is still the grinder, and a gentle Tig weld back with good quality plate if thigs get dodgey. Yeah, they say its structural, but how else are you gonna fit it. Brad and Anita, forum members, had the same issues with the BA engine into there EA, so hang in there!

You can cut up the remains of an old XD bonnet and put it on the XF/XG one to gain space.

Have a great time. You are building I6 History, man!

Whats been happening with this one?

munsta79":2e1ubmoq said:

Whats been happening with this one?

Click to expand...

OK to let everyone know whats happening. Basicly not much. Funds have been a very sore point for me at the moment, but hopefully I'll receive my first sales bonus from work.

The engine is 100% fitted now, the bonnet closes without the engine hitting it (very close but does clear), The mounts have been finished 100% with nice new nuts bolts, and spring washers.
The alerterantor has a small clearence issue which is going to require a small notch cut into the cross momember to clear it happly (It does now but not as much as I would like). I am going to have to get a new swaybar made as the XH swaybar I used with the EF engine does not clear the BA sump. I could space the center D shaped mounts down lower, but I'd prefer to get a new one made, Might be able to get some adjustment into it aswell (extra bolt holes at the ends).
The gearbox mount is going to be a shoein, The factory one wont work (Bugger as its a nice cast alloy one) but won't take 30min with a peice of RHS, a good quality press, and the plasma cutter to make one up.
Driveshaft is something I haven't looked at yet, I've had a breif look at the peddle box assembly, doesn't look like much work, but outside my field of expertiese (Tig welding required).
Starting to sort out the stereo (Why? my friends who owed a car stereo store have decided to sell up, so I brought the gear I required before the new owners tried sell me it a retail prices) Don't hate me but I'm going to use VR VS Commodore door and speaker pockets, and Subaru Legacy (Liberity) tweeter covers up by the mirrors.
Also got some of the new white and red taillamps for the back and they look cool, I'd highly recomend them to anyone with a XD-XH ute.

But thats about it so far.

Oh I also scored a BA dash cluster for free. The fuel guage doesn't work but I'll be able to get a warrenty replacement on that if I'm sneekie!

Need some more pics!

So just to keep everyone upto date on whats happening with my ute.

I've given up on trying to find a factory wiring loom, I want to get this running and can't wait any longer! I've decided to us the New Wolf 3D V500. After talking with Steve at AEMS (Wolf) I've been assured that the V500 will run the VVT on the BARRA engine.

As for Pic's, See below
Dash In Peices to fit the Pedel box etc

All the crap on the tray that needs to be fitted back in again (Electric Fry Pan box is holding CARPARTS!)

The Engine (might be a repost)

The Brakes (Front)

Sitting on the BA 18's

Nissan Skyline Calipers All Painted Up

bloody unreal! how you bolting up the skyline brakes to the standard stub axel? are you using standard sized rotors aswell?

far out!! , You must be one clever cooky to convert the awesome barra 240T into an XF Ute ,

i'm converting a 2V into my XE ute and thats giving me enough headaches,
i look forward to seeing this up and running ,good luck with it

Aussie Gazz":2f86bly5 said:

i'm converting a 2V into my XE ute and thats giving me enough headaches,

Click to expand...

May i ask why

Why am i converting to the 2V? or why is giving me headaches?

its only giving me headaches because 1, when i did the conversion i didnt replace the front seal on the bw40 and it let go about 20km down the road, and 2, when i went to renew the harmonic balancer i stripped the thread inside the crankshaft , where the big bolt that holds the balancer in place , otherwise it was fairly straight forward

I know that the threads in the crank snout in a crossflow are only tapped to about half depth of the hole-- pre crossflow????. Might be worth drilling the old threads out (if you can get the balancer off (!@$$@$#$%%$#) and then tapping full depth and install longer bolt. In crossflows which can rev a bit harder, the balancer is not properly held by the std bolt (if fitted at all by the factory) as the end of the balancer lines up with the end of the bolt threads once installed. This leads to poor thread stability in the snout. A bolt is a tension device, not a locating device. Leave that to dowels. Call it the curse of the beancounters, not the engineers-- "but sir, the thing was working fine until the accountants got involved"......

Oh I also scored a BA dash cluster for free. The fuel guage doesn't work but I'll be able to get a warrenty replacement on that if I'm sneekie!

Click to expand...

Are you SURE the BA cluster has a stuffed fuel gauge? The XD-XF used a capacitive sensor that outputs 0V empty and 4.5V full - Everything else uses a variable resistor.

Aussie Gazz":259iy24w said:

Why am i converting to the 2V? or why is giving me headaches?

its only giving me headaches because 1, when i did the conversion i didnt replace the front seal on the bw40 and it let go about 20km down the road, and 2, when i went to renew the harmonic balancer i stripped the thread inside the crankshaft , where the big bolt that holds the balancer in place , otherwise it was fairly straight forward

Click to expand...

How did you fix the stripped crank threads? (sorry for thread jack)

I would LOVE to own one of those falcons, dude. Looks great. Mustang 5.0 looking front end with an el camino rear... =D Looks awesome.

that's mega hot.

find me a cheap one and send it over! hehe.