ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
Also, does it matter that the air flow meter is not mounted horizontally like in the factory setup??
A
Anonymous
Guest
thats the one mate, square to round. probably $20 in aussie, though I think its a kiwi made part, should beable to get your supercheap to order it atleast.
I dont think anything inside the sensor depends on being level, so you'll be right, mines on a slight downward angle and tilted sideways.
Also, if your squished for clearance, you can find flater filters to bolt on:
I dont think anything inside the sensor depends on being level, so you'll be right, mines on a slight downward angle and tilted sideways.
Also, if your squished for clearance, you can find flater filters to bolt on:
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
I'm not sur what I will do there - I am using all XF wiring and accessories - the washer bottle & overflow bottle sit where you have the AFM so I am not sure that I'll be able to do it like thatLukeNukem":3doparlq said:
As I said, I'm not using extractors, so maybe the factory heat shield will work OK...
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
On the kickdown cable thing, I have previously been given this advice on adjusting it:
First make sure you are getting full throttle.
Then adjust the kickdown cable so that it will just drop into the throttle arm hole.
To get the right length of the kick down cable pull the cable till you feel a slight tension on the cable this is when it starts to drop pressure in the auto
making it kick down.
Too loose and you get a late kick down and bumpy down changes.
Too tight and you get early kick down and low pressure in the auto causing clutch pack slip.
Dead Auto.
I reckon this makes more sense than measuring the stick-out of the cable which may not take into account cable stretch and maybe valve wear...
First make sure you are getting full throttle.
Then adjust the kickdown cable so that it will just drop into the throttle arm hole.
To get the right length of the kick down cable pull the cable till you feel a slight tension on the cable this is when it starts to drop pressure in the auto
making it kick down.
Too loose and you get a late kick down and bumpy down changes.
Too tight and you get early kick down and low pressure in the auto causing clutch pack slip.
Dead Auto.
I reckon this makes more sense than measuring the stick-out of the cable which may not take into account cable stretch and maybe valve wear...
A
Anonymous
Guest
how much longer would your adaption be compared to the stock intake tract?
A
Anonymous
Guest
dunno, i think mine comes up around 1010mm, just over a metre.
What I need is a hard bend on that throtle body to stop the pipe closing in on itself too much.
Maybe try and make as direct route as possible too.
What I need is a hard bend on that throtle body to stop the pipe closing in on itself too much.
Maybe try and make as direct route as possible too.
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
what about the bend that was originally on there?LukeNukem":4x91gr1a said:
A
Anonymous
Guest
stick a piece of poly pipe inside it?
A
Anonymous
Guest
managed to find the original pipe so I whacked that on and trimed the flexi pipe down.
The engine sucks so feckin much air in that the flexi-pipe contracts on itself, quite amusing to watch.
The engine sucks so feckin much air in that the flexi-pipe contracts on itself, quite amusing to watch.
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
Yeah! - how about a nice bit of stormwater pipe with matching bends - that would look cool...xecute®™© he he":39oze2i6 said:
A
Anonymous
Guest
I got a few ideas floating round now, one I might try tomorrow.
First idea, Plan A:
Mount the MAF on the rocker cover, facing forward, nice bend as possible, then from the MAF to filter, nice long bit of pipe to get the airfilter right down to chassis level, and have something like a scoop mounted on the chassis.
Plan B:
Mount the MAF as before, but have the pipe going from MAF, through a hole in the front wall, to a nice long filter just infront of the radiator.
Or,maybe even an intercooler with a nice big filter on the other end.
Plan C:
Cut a hole next to the radiator n the front wall, the size of a standard round airfilter (carb style), bolt the round filter there, on the engine side, then have the MAF, like the last two plans, nice shiny pipe going from filter to the good bits.
That would act kinda like ram air I guess...
Might go get some stainless pipe...
And, i think 4.1 is a wee bit depressed at the moment, like old Snuffle used to seem like.
Seems to have lost a little grunt somewhere.
First idea, Plan A:
Mount the MAF on the rocker cover, facing forward, nice bend as possible, then from the MAF to filter, nice long bit of pipe to get the airfilter right down to chassis level, and have something like a scoop mounted on the chassis.
Plan B:
Mount the MAF as before, but have the pipe going from MAF, through a hole in the front wall, to a nice long filter just infront of the radiator.
Or,maybe even an intercooler with a nice big filter on the other end.
Plan C:
Cut a hole next to the radiator n the front wall, the size of a standard round airfilter (carb style), bolt the round filter there, on the engine side, then have the MAF, like the last two plans, nice shiny pipe going from filter to the good bits.
That would act kinda like ram air I guess...
Might go get some stainless pipe...
And, i think 4.1 is a wee bit depressed at the moment, like old Snuffle used to seem like.
Seems to have lost a little grunt somewhere.
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
Probably from the hose squashing up and reducing the cross-sectional area and therefore the flow capacity...LukeNukem":3hwafkr7 said:
Surely with passive induction, the more convoluted the tract between port and intake, the more losses... Look at domestic plumbing (since someone mentioned it) - you always go for 45° fittings if you need a bend; the 90s are for when a 45 cannot be made to work.
I can see a soft hose collapsing not because of inadequate area in the cross-section but because so much of that area is dead or effectively not flowing.
I can see a soft hose collapsing not because of inadequate area in the cross-section but because so much of that area is dead or effectively not flowing.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I'm with addo on this one. Polypiping is cheap and easy to use, won't collapse, would be easy to insulate, etc (do they make that insulation in a can still?). I'm also sure theres a range of degrees the bends can be had at - that'd be good to keep those nasty sharp bends out of the plumbing
Ou of interest, does anyone know of the BMW VAF internal dimensions? If its got the same plug and same outer dimensions, would the insides be of the same size to the LE-II/EEC-IV setup? If its a bit bigger, it might just be a good little swap for the Falcon...
Lukenukem, If I were in your shoes (which I'm very shortly about to be - I got my VAF adaptor on order at the local Supernasty) try and tune the total length for the approximate peak of torque; I forget the exact length required for the 4.1, but theres a sweet spot to try and hit for it to sing hard - Go long on it, and you'll end up with more low end torque, go short on it and it gives a bit more pep up top.
Ou of interest, does anyone know of the BMW VAF internal dimensions? If its got the same plug and same outer dimensions, would the insides be of the same size to the LE-II/EEC-IV setup? If its a bit bigger, it might just be a good little swap for the Falcon...
Lukenukem, If I were in your shoes (which I'm very shortly about to be - I got my VAF adaptor on order at the local Supernasty) try and tune the total length for the approximate peak of torque; I forget the exact length required for the 4.1, but theres a sweet spot to try and hit for it to sing hard - Go long on it, and you'll end up with more low end torque, go short on it and it gives a bit more pep up top.
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
Long wins then:discokin6":30pmca5x said:
"Horsepower sells cars,
Torque wins motor races"
A
Anonymous
Guest
I'd say variable would be better.. really long for low down, then it retracts as the RPMs rise for a short runner up top...
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
That's a GREAT idea! - it's a wonder Ford doesn't work out a way to do that...discokin6":3p37gzyl said:
They have....since 1993, for the last 12 years. The latest BF still uses the EF intake with a different casting number!
The Torque Optimised Dynamic Resonance Intake has the intake length reduced above 3700 rpm to increase power. Power is torque with a speed factor. Since long runners increase the amount of time the engine takes to respond, power always drops with long runners. The EF on item has got two steps, long runner for ramming the air flow into the engine at low revs, short one for making power at full revs. The Turbo Falcons only have the short runner set-up. For Ford to make it micro adjustable to rev range would require some trumpet skills akin to . Herb Alperts or Duke E.
Getting back to it, Richies TE Cortina EFI had a steel pipe, welded. Might be better doing a forward mounted version of his. Basically what you have at the moment, but with
1) the XF rubber piece out of the throttle body on the true left of the car,
2) then the mild steel pipe (75 to whatever internal dia) where you Noo Noo/Snuffy line is
3) Then drop the 90 degree stock rubber vane sensor rubber. Although the bend gives ridgity to the rubber, it hursts air flow.
4) The air vane sensor and then the pod filter then goes at right angles to the inner guard, still on the right.
You mount the air flow sensor off the XF power steering bracket! All Fraud X-flows have three 7/16 bolt holes for the power steering pump, and all you gotta do is use the old bracket and get someone to weld a pipe or bolt a piece of 3 mm plate to it and impale that pesky sensor thing on the end of it.
Just like this,
but rather than rear mounted, its over the front like yours. Yeah, it'll be close to the fuel rail and cover the dissy and make it harder to do the filter, but its still easy to get to all the stuff.
Then it'll flow like a rat up a drainpipe.
Cost is a few ales to the welder. If you want to make money, I'll buy three of the mild steel pipes if the quality is good. PM me if your interested. Beats 'beating the bacon' on your own!
Deano
The Torque Optimised Dynamic Resonance Intake has the intake length reduced above 3700 rpm to increase power. Power is torque with a speed factor. Since long runners increase the amount of time the engine takes to respond, power always drops with long runners. The EF on item has got two steps, long runner for ramming the air flow into the engine at low revs, short one for making power at full revs. The Turbo Falcons only have the short runner set-up. For Ford to make it micro adjustable to rev range would require some trumpet skills akin to . Herb Alperts or Duke E.
Getting back to it, Richies TE Cortina EFI had a steel pipe, welded. Might be better doing a forward mounted version of his. Basically what you have at the moment, but with
1) the XF rubber piece out of the throttle body on the true left of the car,
2) then the mild steel pipe (75 to whatever internal dia) where you Noo Noo/Snuffy line is
3) Then drop the 90 degree stock rubber vane sensor rubber. Although the bend gives ridgity to the rubber, it hursts air flow.
4) The air vane sensor and then the pod filter then goes at right angles to the inner guard, still on the right.
You mount the air flow sensor off the XF power steering bracket! All Fraud X-flows have three 7/16 bolt holes for the power steering pump, and all you gotta do is use the old bracket and get someone to weld a pipe or bolt a piece of 3 mm plate to it and impale that pesky sensor thing on the end of it.
Just like this,
but rather than rear mounted, its over the front like yours. Yeah, it'll be close to the fuel rail and cover the dissy and make it harder to do the filter, but its still easy to get to all the stuff.
Then it'll flow like a rat up a drainpipe.
Cost is a few ales to the welder. If you want to make money, I'll buy three of the mild steel pipes if the quality is good. PM me if your interested. Beats 'beating the bacon' on your own!
Deano