250 2V Perth!!!!! I need help!

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I have a stock xy 250 fairmont with 3 speed column auto. according to the previous owner the motor was rebuilt a few years ago. Ive just bought a 250 2v head, intake manifold and genie extractors. Im thinking of getting the head recond, with bigger exhaust valves and smoothing the valve bowels, with a 500 holley, and the genie extractors goin to a 2 ¼ inch twin system for abit of a note. After the heads up and running, abit later on id like to add a new cam (no bigger than 210 degrees @ .050 from what ive read), timing set, lifters, uprated valve springs and electronic ignition. My question is with these mods, and with the right gearing, would mid 15s be possible? Or is that too ambitious? Also could anyone tell me the gearing id need, and what gearbox would be best? Id rather stick with an auto, but the guy I got the 2v from has a supra 5 speed with bellhousing to suit a 250. Anyone in perth recommend anyone for head work and mech work on it?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
Howdy and yes go the 2v. Sounds good with the headwork you've mentioned, but don't go 2.25 twin exhaust. Way too big, and you'll lose way to much bottom end. Twin 2inch is plenty and sounds mad for a 250. I did mine that way and dumped it at the diff and i love it.

Why don't you go the cam when you do the head? Otherwise it'll have to come off again later, and unless you're doing it yourself, it'll cost you more in the end. Also with the cam, I went 214@0.050" (rev range 1800-4800). Good midrange cam which makes power to around 5000rpm. Don't go too small or you'll regret it later, but if you go too much bigger then the one i went, you'll be sacrificing your bottom end, unless you go 3.5 or 3.7 diff gears. You'll also need new lifters, timing set and springs.

The 2v falcons as far as i recall ran a 16.4sec qtr mile - same as the windsor falcons, so i cant see why you wouldn't be able to get mid 15's. I got my 2v in a couple weeks ago. Worked head, big valves, 40thou over block, balanced, msd ignition, 500 holley etc. and i'm going to match it to an alloy case supra box with 2.92 or 3.23 diff gears. Its all in a td cortina, and i'd definately be hoping for even high 14's.
 
hey XLE1974, cheers for the advice mate, ill definately go the 2 inch twin exhaust. i wasnt sure about gettin everything done at once cos i wasnt sure about how strong the rest of the motor is, but gave it a compression test today and their all 160-168 psi and shes running fine so i guess it should be sweet. Im keen to hear how ur corty goes! another question, did u divide ur centre exhaust ports? and how important do u think it is?
cheers mate
 
Port dividing seems to be a point of contention. I personally believe Ford would have done it when designing the head, if they felt it worthwhile.

So, to me, the port divider you weld in is not necessary on anything less than a speedway motor - where the thing is running almost constantly flat stick and you need maximum efficiency at that point.

Cheers, Adam.
 
I do agree with addo in regards to the port dividing. Mine does have the divider, but I bought my motor complete. I had my own gear ready to go, but came across tis motor built a few years ago, but only done about 2000kms. Long story short, i know the blokes that built it, so i bought it and saved some money on my own rebuild, and sold off all my gear.

I'm just curious with the exhaust, if you go twin, cylinders 3 and 4 will be in different pipes. without the port divider, is it going to flow evenly between one pipe or the other? Kind of hard to explain.
 
Dividing the centre exhaust port is like this:-
The factory did not divide it because they wanted to use it to fit the carb choke stove(the coil of pipe you see in there).
The reason you divide the port is that the inline six acts like two 3 cylinder engines, the intake and exhaust pulses do not overlap, however if 3 and 4 cylinders are common then they do, so its best to keep them separate. If you look at any good (BMW Merc) inline six you find its got six separate ports.
Ive always divided them, they sound different and better to my mind anyway. the sixes like dual exhausts and it easy enough to do with tailpipes a la GT.
As to cams why not run a small mechanical cam, get the good idle and still have the rpm. In my expereince you cant runmuch above 210 degrees with the single big holley before idle quality declines to the point where fuel economy and low end power is a problem. Easily done with the pre-crossflows as they have adjustable rocker arms. Id run the manual tranny but if youve got your heart set on a slushie then get a C4, they were fitted factory to the sixes so you should be able to fit the necessary bits to do it.
PS just a thought, if your 250-2v XY is all factory it most likely has a C4 auto as it is, so check, the shift rod is on the lhs for C4 and the BW35 (factory alternative) is on the RHS and has a bigger pan.
A7M
 
if you have problems blowing out exhaust gaskets on a 250 2v maybe your not ordering a 250 2v exhaust manifold gasket?i went thought this for a while with mine until i realised a 250 2v has a smaller centre exhaust port than a normal 250 thats why there are 2 different gaskets.
 
I've just finished a restoration on a 2V. It's running pacemaker headers into two pipes @ 2" each via a tri flow muffler on each side to get the back pressure right. Has been cammed a little for mid range and I'm still running the original strommie. It pulls like a train and sounds sensational.
I'm in the NSW XY XW owners club and the other members can't believe how good it sounds. The old straight sixes have a note the X flows can't replicate. The 2V's better than the log heads.

Go for it and enjoy.

Mark
 
Cheers for the advice everyone, im goin to just go stock on the head, with a holley and a 2 inch twin system for now then cam it up later on when money allows :) my biggest issue now is the accelerator linkage and kickdown cable for the auto. how has everyone else done it?
 
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