dropped my motor!!!!

XFlow_Fairlane

XFlow_Fairlane

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well into the car that is...

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just a mock up block (well it was maybe usable until I had it in long term storage and it got hit with over 12" of rain in one day and flooded my unit)

going to measure how tall the EFI motor is and see if I will have hood clearance for it too. I am slready looking at dropping the motor down and back in the car (about 2.5" behind the head and firewall) to gain some more room. Either late tonight or tomorrow I also plan to bolt up my T5 bellhousing and T5 case to see how that will work out. I know I need to stretch my stock trans mount for the T5 (I used to have a self fabbed one that was a quickie and fugly) trying to get this all mocked up as my machinist wants to get his hands on it bad (he loves oddball motors and builds)

current plans (other than the stock EFI motor and carb 250's I have also)

basic built motor setup (pistons, rods, cam etc) all of this below is already collected just needs fitted)
GM LS6/truck coils
36-1 wheel
2.3L OHC dummy shaft
Sheet metal intake with forward facing throttle (have a stock injector boss and fuel rail..need ot fab intake and pick a TB)
Turbonetics .57 trim hybrid
TiAl 38mm wastegate
TiAl BOV
Megasquirt running the EFI side of things
Thunderbird Turbocoupe power steering pump (has remote res to tuck under the intake)
front mount intercooler


things that need fabed up:

intake
header
accessory mounts
ignition mount (36-1 setup and coil mounts)
mount intercooler and radaitor in car and charge piping
trans crossmember (fairlanes use a goofy setup that hangs back from the torque boxes...need to stretch it and then build a new rear crossmember to mount the T5 in it unless I go C4....which I have also)

right now I am debating trying to make the Cain intake work or jus tput it up for sale. it clears but pretty sure I won't have room for any linkage in there. I would love to run a blow through setup with it first though!!
 
I got a photo of a 4 barrell edelbrock on the redline 4 barrel manifold that looks the same as the cain you have in the photo , set up in a XR 1967 falcon , but i cant get it on here as i dont have photobucket etc .
The carb clears the suspension easily and run sweetly .
PM me and i will see if i could send you the pics.
Cheers
 
well I dropped the bare head off at the shop today. they are gonna look it over (has a couple small cracks) and get back to me.

hoping they can weld them up with no issues and get some decent valvetrain setup. might give a go at building this 200 "donor" motor of mine. figured some high revving motor could be a nice change of things.....either that or I will just use this for the EFI turbo motor in the works.
 
-put new "frame horns" on it this summer (unibody)

-new battery apron went in this morning after sitting half completed for 3 months.

so for the first time ever I figured I would drop the efi motor in the car....






fits pretty nicely. the stock AC lines had to be tweaked a little but not even sure I am running these accessories (some goofy overseas compressor and alternator) US 250 brackets and all bolt on so swapping would not be too tough to do. one shock tower brace clears and the other has a bit of interference. Prob will weld on up some ones that are all one piece with maybe a "export" brace style side to side on it.












can prob slide it back an inch or so with some modded motor mounts (I have a spare set) or maybe just fab some new ones with some poly bushes I have.



I have a spot over each shock tower that needs a little attention which will be this winters work and parts are in the mail for building some new lower control arms (screw in mopar balljoints, johnny joint bushings, some DOM tubing, weld tabs for swaybar mount (poly uppers with a rod end lower) and a turnbuckle sleeve and die for the stock strut rods)



Current goal is to have the front end on the ground by summer and maybe the harness sorted out on the motor. I have the full harness but need to desmog it and run some temp power to it. also need to mod the trans crossmember for the T5 and get Mike to machine out a spacer for me.
 
started messing with some stuff.

pulled the throttle body off to look into how I am going to do the cable. I think I am going to modify the arm on the side (move ball stud around 180*) and rotate the throttle to the arm is on top. the bolt pattern is square so rotating it is no big deal other than needing a 1.5" thick spacer machined up and longer studs (so the TPS will clear the rocker cover) this will give me a nice short throttle cable (using one off one of my old 2.3L turbocoupes I had)

I think Jack had used a 300 truck cable which is about three feet longer and routed it half way around the enginebay (behind the motor and then into the throttle from the passenger side aussie style) since I am planning on a turbo sitting over there at some point I want to keep the clutter down so will just tackle it now.

not much else to report. I was looking at my spare fuel rail and thinking about having a professional take the bypass off it and weld some AN fittings on either end of it fo rme so I can ditch the factory fuel line connectors and regulator and just go right to my Aeromotive I have from the carbed turbo setup (came with springs for EFI and carb)

One of the next things on the list is renting a fun clutch wrench (I really should jsut go get a HF one) and getting the clutch fan off and ordering up a ALLOY radaitor since I am ditching the HUGE crossflow one I had and going back to a downflow (narrower if I want to go FMIC) need to figure out what radaitor I need and trim the opening as needed and find radaitor hoses that fit (might jsut get a couple J bends and section them up with silicone couplers.

I also have a machinist lined out to make the bell housing spacer to set the T5 back so I can just run a US input shaft. Hopefully I can get some of this done up this winter and have the motor mounting all sorted out along with the cooling system and clutch stuff so I can pull it all back out to finish the other mods on the car.
 
Seriously, you'll be better shortening the input shaft on the trans. It's less elements to go awry on you, and less length for shaft vibrations to develop.
 
I thought about that but running the spacer (made in adaptor style...will have two extra bolts to keep it in place) will allow any US input length T5 to be swapped in. cost will work out the same in the end but this way I only have to do it once (I have a couple different T5's laying around as spares) to get a shaft shortened .75" (roughly) runs into problems of needing the splines cut back further, hardening of the newly cut splines and some of the input shafts are cut down past the splines so I would be loosing strength there....and I well be keeping the combo the same length as mu 200/T5 was (no changes needed to driveshaft)

plus while my machinist is at it I am having a T5 plate made for the other bellhousing I have.
 
got a problem now.

the EFI motor is sitting on my swaybar and centerlink BIGTIME. looks like I need to raise this thing in my enginebay (I got the room) I don't think any motor mount swapping will do the job (mine are different than mustangs....but might have a solution) are any swappers having this issue? my car had a 170 stock (200 did not exist yet) and when I swapped a 200 in things were a little tighter in the rear but I am thinking the 250 oilpan is a bit deeper and fouling things more.
 
Just to let you know, Ive got a crossflow in my XP ute which is similar, I used the stock front mountings and drill holes in the metal vertical part 20mm lower, thereby raising the engine 20mm, this clears the stabiliser and steering, We dont have bolt in crossmember under engine as our cars are quite a lot stronger and dont need them. It wasnt fitted at the factory after 1964.
A7M
 
XFlow_Fairlane":2j6767i7 said:
I think Jack had used a 300 truck cable which is about three feet longer and routed it half way around the enginebay (behind the motor and then into the throttle from the passenger side aussie style) since I am planning on a turbo sitting over there at some point I want to keep the clutter down so will just tackle it now.

I also have a machinist lined out to make the bell housing spacer to set the T5 back so I can just run a US input shaft. Hopefully I can get some of this done up this winter and have the motor mounting all sorted out along with the cooling system and clutch stuff so I can pull it all back out to finish the other mods on the car.
Click to expand...

Actually I used a late model Ford pedal with a Lokar cable. It fit the existing braket on the TB and snapped onto the ball on the TB lever. Worked really well. I used a common T-5 adapter to mate the aussie bell with the T-5. Had to drill and tap two extra holes to bolt the adapter on, but that was a thirty minute job.
 

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