new owner of 250 crossflow

6cylfever

New member
I just got a complete 250 cross flow. I think its about a 1986 it has a injection manifold that arcs over the head.. It needs to be rebuilt. I need a source for bearings a medium hot cam and lifters or anything else thats uniquie that only comes from oz. Advice on how much and where to port the head. Has anyone put a 700r4 trans behind one? header flanges?
 
Search FSP member xrglen's posts for porting tips. The exhausts flow a fair bit but the intakes need some work is what I recall.
I have a Crow 14650 cam that I would like to sell, I think I'm going to head the turbo route with mine when I get there. PM if interested.
www.aussiespeedusa.com is a good source for xflow stuff stateside.

-Stephen
 
What is the casting code on the block? That will tell you what year engine it could be and what gasket kit you will need.

Where did you get it? I've been looking for a crossflow with a 86 or above casting code.
 
Did you get a bellhousing with it? The crossflow uses a bellhousing with a different bolt pattern than the US engine. The Aussie crossflow also uses a high mount starter (as opposed to a low mount starter on the US250); I don't know whether the 700r4 trans will work with it.
 
you will need a custom bell and a way to run the TV/kickdown cable.

I am trying to get mine running on a GM OBDII box so I can maybe have the option of a 4L60E in the future.
 
'68falconohio":1tnyddzy said:
Search FSP member xrglen's posts for porting tips. The exhausts flow a fair bit but the intakes need some work is what I recall.
I have a Crow 14650 cam that I would like to sell, I think I'm going to head the turbo route with mine when I get there. PM if interested.
http://www.aussiespeedusa.com is a good source for xflow stuff stateside.

-Stephen
What are the spec on a 14650 cam? Is it new? Do you have a whole matching kit lifters springs retainers and pushrods.. I will check out the aussespeed site after I tear it down. Thanks Marv
 
rocklord":2tgde4hp said:
What is the casting code on the block? That will tell you what year engine it could be and what gasket kit you will need.

Where did you get it? I've been looking for a crossflow with a 86 or above casting code.

Dan The block is stamped JG23CF 681700 is under the first number On the left rear is cast 840ASO1FAA front left side 9H4 The clyider head is stamped 246A I only think its a 86 engine because I saw one on ebay australia that had a intake like this engine
I found a add in the inliners magizine for one dated july of 2007. I called the guy and he said he had sold that one but had another one. I bought it.
Maybr you could figure what year it really is. Thanks Marv
 
rocklord":1xk9yayp said:
Did you get a bellhousing with it? The crossflow uses a bellhousing with a different bolt pattern than the US engine. The Aussie crossflow also uses a high mount starter (as opposed to a low mount starter on the US250); I don't know whether the 700r4 trans will work with it.

Dan I didn't get a bellhousing. I have placed a order from a salvage yard in Australia for a engine plate,flexplate, starter and a dizzy Haven't got the stuff yet. Postage was more than stuff. Yes I'm worried about the high mounted stater but hoping I can work it out once I get the parts from oz. I read some of the old post about what starters and flywheels from the US will interchange. Mike from Classic Inlines has a manual bell housing he doesn't know what it is for other than it came from oz. It will be a starting place. Thanks for the help Marv
 
XFlow_Fairlane":3rqhie42 said:
you will need a custom bell and a way to run the TV/kickdown cable.

I am trying to get mine running on a GM OBDII box so I can maybe have the option of a 4L60E in the future.

Xflow Fairlane
I hope to make a adapter plate from the cross flow to the small case 700r4 A freind has a C&C mill with the demensions for the 700 stored in it. He has made a plate for me to mount a 700r4 behind a rover alum V-8 that I have in a MGB Thanks Marv
 
6cylfever":pp6jatnh said:
'68falconohio":pp6jatnh said:
Search FSP member xrglen's posts for porting tips. The exhausts flow a fair bit but the intakes need some work is what I recall.
I have a Crow 14650 cam that I would like to sell, I think I'm going to head the turbo route with mine when I get there. PM if interested.
http://www.aussiespeedusa.com is a good source for xflow stuff stateside.

-Stephen
What are the spec on a 14650 cam? Is it new? Do you have a whole matching kit lifters springs retainers and pushrods.. I will check out the aussespeed site after I tear it down. Thanks Marv


Crow cam- hydraulic, flat tappet.

Part Number 14650 Lobe Separation 113
Inlet Opens 34 B.T.D.C. Inlet Closes 78 A.B.D.C.
Exhaust Opens 80 B.B.D.C. Exhaust Closes 32 A.T.D.C.
Inlet Duration 230 at 0.050 292 Advertised
Exhaust Duration 230 at 0.050 292 Advertised
Valve Lift .522/.522

I do not have lifters, pushrods, or springs, I only have the cam. It is new. The box has been opened to inspect when I got it. I bought the cam, a head, a few gaskets, and valves a couple years ago. I could not afford the proper springs, intake, valve cover, or header at the time and pay to have them imported. Springs, valves, and lifters should be sourceable stateside, that is my plan. Check MustangSix's info in his how-to article.

-Stephen
 
Hiya, that Crow cam is pretty strong to work with the auto, and why would you spoil a perfectly good crossflow with a slushie. Stop being a girl and get a mans tranny, 4 speed, then you ca get best performance out of it.
That cam will idle fairly rough.
The engine number on your block, JG .... will tel you when and where it was made, JG means Geelong 34 is the car it was in and the NG is month and year, if you look up dome of the aussie ford sites they will explain.
Your intake selection is important are you running with the EFI or going carb?
A7M
 
aussie7mains":1jnihcqb said:
Hiya, that Crow cam is pretty strong to work with the auto, and why would you spoil a perfectly good crossflow with a slushie. Stop being a girl and get a mans tranny, 4 speed, then you ca get best performance out of it.
That cam will idle fairly rough.
The engine number on your block, JG .... will tel you when and where it was made, JG means Geelong 34 is the car it was in and the NG is month and year, if you look up dome of the aussie ford sites they will explain.
Your intake selection is important are you running with the EFI or going carb?
A7M
Aussie 7mains I agree about the trans I'm trying to pacify my wife who wants to make the 2 door Rambler wagon into a Betty-bop car???? I haven't tried setting the engine in the car yet. I only got the Fatman suspension on the ground yesterday. It looks like I will have to make/get a rear pan and sump. Is a rear sump easy to get in oz? I hope to keep the EFI I only have a EFI on my 50 jeepster. In that car I had the whole Grand Cherokee to pick from and I live only 25 miles from Detroit in the summer to get help on wiring ect.
Thanks for the info Marv
 
Look on the head between the No 1 & 2 intake and see if there is a letter and number, such as C1, C2, D1, etc.
That may give you and idea of the combustion chamber size and valve size.
 
Well I haven't done much to the 250 crossflow. I have been waiting for a flex plate and engine plate to show up from a austrailan parts recycler. After a month wait it showed up monday. They were the wrong parts. The flex plate has 3/8" bolts mine are 7/16" and engine plate doesn't fit. I sent the oz. source a email but have not got a reply. Does any one in the states have a engine plate? My blocks top two hoes are 6 1/4" apart (6cm) with a dole pin 3/4" (2cm)to the left of the right bolt. The flex plate I can drill out and hope a starter will fit after I get the correct engine plate. I did get the Fatman front end in and the rust holes in the floor board fixed. Marv
 
The flexplate/flywheel is the same dimension as the 157 tooth US version from a 250 or you could use a neutral balanced 289/302/5.0 version.

The starter is also a non-issue since a 2-bolt high mount starter from a 200 will fit.

You will need to get main bearings, gaskets, timing chain, and oil pump from Oz. US 250 water pump will work.

The balancer is different so if it's bad, you'll have to have it rebuilt or get one from Oz; the US 250 or 200 will not fit.
 
Make sure you get the correct gasket set. Blocks with the 84 and after casting code uses a different, and better, rear main seal than the earlier ones.
 
MustangSix I see you list that you have a T-5 for a trans. Is someone making a adapter? or can I get a digital cad program do duplicate? I've contacted the Austraian souce company about Oz. parts, Waiting for him to get back in town. Thanks Marv

MustangSix":g96010lj said:
The flexplate/flywheel is the same dimension as the 157 tooth US version from a 250 or you could use a neutral balanced 289/302/5.0 version.

The starter is also a non-issue since a 2-bolt high mount starter from a 200 will fit.

You will need to get main bearings, gaskets, timing chain, and oil pump from Oz. US 250 water pump will work.

The balancer is different so if it's bad, you'll have to have it rebuilt or get one from Oz; the US 250 or 200 will not fit.
 
The T5 was pretty easy. I used a cast iron aussie toploader bellhousing and a t-5 adapter for a toploader.

It was just like adapting the T5 to a V8 early Mustang except I had to drill and tap one extra hole to secure the adapter.

Forgot to mention that your con rod bearings are the same as the US 250.

As long as you're sourcing parts from Oz, one other thing you might look for is a later model 12-counterweight crank. Supposed to really improve the balance and smoothness of the engine.
 
MustangSix":29831shf said:
As long as you're sourcing parts from Oz, one other thing you might look for is a later model 12-counterweight crank. Supposed to really improve the balance and smoothness of the engine.

To bad it hasn't been figured out if it's possible to install that crank in our 250. It's so much cheaper to get a crank shipped than a complete crossflow.

MustangSix,
When you were rebuilding your crossflow you compared the two cranks (crossflow to US), were the differences that significant, or could modifications be made to make it fit?
 
I counted the teeth on the two flex plates I have. Ones a 300 with 164 and the other one was sent from Oz. with the wrong engine plate. It has 150teeth. Will the starter from Oz. work on the 157 US flex plate? Is the 12-counterweight crank only available from Oz? If I ask for one what is it put in? What year? Is it for the 250 overhead cam crank? Do you think it is available from rebuiders or only new? Thanks Marv
rocklord":1jzdlkgo said:
MustangSix":1jzdlkgo said:
As long as you're sourcing parts from Oz, one other thing you might look for is a later model 12-counterweight crank. Supposed to really improve the balance and smoothness of the engine.

To bad it hasn't been figured out if it's possible to install that crank in our 250. It's so much cheaper to get a crank shipped than a complete crossflow.

MustangSix,
When you were rebuilding your crossflow you compared the two cranks (crossflow to US), were the differences that significant, or could modifications be made to make it fit?
 
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