76DA cast crossflow head valve clearances needed please

Hi,

Have a 76DA cast crossflow motor in a '79 Land Rover !! Have just finished rewiring and fitting heat shields to protect from heat from fitted exhaust extractors.

I need the valve clearances for this motor, as 1 or 2 are very noisy.

Can someone provide me with these please, so I can start using the fourby ?

Regards

Tassietig
Barraba Station
 
Tassietig, the small 144 to 250 sixes were designed by the same team that did the FE 332-428 engines.

The X-flow was the small six with a canted valve head and Chevy 396/ Cleveland rockers. The x-flow cam is phased differntley, so the on line info for 170/200/250 non cross flows won't be pefect, but as long as you identify each cylinder and the intake nd exhaust valve for each, it'll help a lot.

Basic idea is to use a lifter prelod tool, or something that does the same thing .


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tl9oDaMLCME


archive/www.classicinlines.com/ValveAdj.html

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75063&p=579648&hilit=valves+adjustment#p579648

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72936&p=561201&hilit=valve+adjustment#p561201
xctasy":2nw4y6jz said:
Use Fords t71p-6513-a lifter bleed down tool to bottom out a lifter.

as recommended in Fords service manuals.

91800.jpg


2009-11-06_152644_90f150.gif


http://www.toolsource.com/ford-tappet-b ... 91800.html

Then either grab a store bought sample 351 GT Cleveland solid lifter 1970-1971 pre hydraulic lifter, and use it for setting valve geometry, or add 125 thou to the bottomed out hydraulic lifter height by hand bleeding it yourself, or shimming it yourself. Hand bleeding is easiest. I'm fairly certain 125 thou is the blueprint solid level in operation, but it can work in transition from 25 to 125 thou before fully pumping up.


One of those types of lifters will get you the results you seek.


Note Well.

I'm sure you already know this, but a recap.

http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17157

A HYDRAULIC LIFTER BECOMES SOLID IN OPERATION BECAUSE OF THE TRAPPED INCOMPRESSABLE OIL FROM THE EXIT BLOCKED BY CHECK BALL OPERATION. IT STARTS FROM BASE CIRCLE (REFIL) TO ON RAMP (LIFT).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lorANZ1Tptw
http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/03/5 ... onents.jpg
15-Exploded.jpg



"We know that the engine expansion rate depends on operating temperature. At normal operating temperature, the valve clearance has changed from the initial gap of 0.006" on a solid lifter engine to a smaller one. We know there is still a gap because we can hear it. How much gap and by what temperature only the engineers really knew. That gap is set to accommodate the ideal expansion and since the engine isn't at the ideal expansion at all time, the adjustment is imperfect especially at startup. The hydraulic valve train is designed to eliminate the gap at all engine temperatures: a more efficient design.

Instead of setting the valve lash to 0.006", the hydraulic adjusting screw makes contact with the valve stem and you turn the screw a couple turns and you're finished. No feeler gauges are required. The engine pumps the lifter full of oil and as the clearances of the engine parts change due to heating expansion, the lifter adjusts automatically. Besides fewer required valve adjustments it means less startup wear on the valve train compared to a solid lifter engine because the engine is adjusted at all temperatures not just when the engine is hot.

The lifter has four main components: the body, socket, plunger and valve mechanism. The body moves with the cam and the plunger/socket moves with the push rod. Riding between the two is the weak plunger spring and a cushion of oil. All of the cavities within the lifter are filled with engine oil.


The lifter gets pressurized by the oil gallery feeding the lifter bore only during the start of motion. The oil pressure is just enough fully engage the valve train but not enough to overcome the stiff valve spring and open the valve in the head: that's the job of the cam pushing on the lifter body.

There is a small valve in each lifter and the one illustrated is a check-ball design. The check-ball is held in place by a tiny spring and the motion of the lifter opens the check-ball cavity because inertia leaves the check ball behind but only for a brief moment.

When the cam pushes the lifter body upward, the plunger is held in place by the tension from the push rod and the valve cavity decreases in size slightly. The check-ball inside the valve is held in place by its support spring and pressure from the oil in the cavity forces the check ball forward which closes off the valve opening to the valve cavity. This traps incompressible oil in the valve cavity, causing the plunger assembly to move with the lifter body which moves the push rod and opens the valve in the head. After this point the lifter effectively becomes a solid lifter."


Copied from http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Hydrau ... #operation, eliminating any reference to "VW"
 
Terrific feedback, thank you.

Was hoping to remove the lifters (with the head still on), but visually I don't think they'll come out, the hole in the head seems too small.

Read somewhere else today that it's not possible to remove the lifters up through these cast heads, only on the later alloy ones.

Can anyone confirm this for me please ? Have just bought a repair manual (online), but it won't get here for about a week !!, to see their method for lifter removal.

Looks like a dose of oil/sludge cleaner might be my only option, without removing the head, to "clean" the lifters.

Am cleaning everything with a good flushing of oil (rocker cover and sump removed), as the old rocker cover gasket has obviously been disintegrating for a while, with burnt cork visible and lying around everywhere. Will also check the oil pump, pickup and filter/filter housing to make sure I clean everything.

Any tips/advice most welcome,
Regards
Tassietig
 
Yes, the first two X-flow heads, the 40 mm intake port 76-79 TE/ XC Falcon head, and the iron 35 mm port TF/ XD head, the chest above the lifters is cast...the alloy head, it was open. Big difference. But if you have the right tools, you'll do it okay.

You might get them through if you use some Presol and a riffle barrel brush, and a lifter removal tool.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18617
xctasy":9mm10u14 said:

The top two pictures are the same Iron TE Cortina x-flow head like your head
IMG_0511.jpg


1004DtOXEFalconAlloyHeadIIHF5Hondacastcrossflowh.jpg




Below it, is the alloy head, a stunning 51 pounds lighter, mostly in void space, the alloy is a third the weight, but a heck of a lot of metal was taken out, and the open valley to the lifters makes alloy head cross flows a lot easier to service.

MRJLB84D's 86 X-flow head..open void space again, natch....

 
Back
Top