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250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

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66WarPony
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250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #1 by 66WarPony » Wed Dec 03, 2014 11:42 am

After being down for almost a year and a half, I've breathed life back into the old pony! This motor should have been an option to begin with, as it's brought some fun back to the skinny pedal. I did a pretty good job documenting my build with pictures, so I'll be posting in segments. Thanks to to those who have gone before me and documented their build, I've learned a lot in the process.
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

bmbm40
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #2 by bmbm40 » Wed Dec 03, 2014 2:08 pm

Far out man!
The details in your signature line look good. That Aussie head is a nice piece and I bet it goes pretty good.
I am trying to remember what my exhaust size is on my 66. I seem to recall measuring it and it was 2" or possibly slightly larger and I had a factory 170. I don't know what research on body lifts you have done but can tell you that on a 1" bl I did not have to modify anything and my original rubber body bushings were squashed pretty flat and I replaced them with stock rubber ones. I think I got about 1.5" lift with the rubber bushings and body lift pieces and it gave it a nice stance. I found the body lifts on ebay for about $3 each then some bolts and washers at the hardware store. I never found the washers I thought would have been perfect and later found out you can get the bl hardware kit from wildhorses.
Looking forward to hearing more.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #3 by bubba22349 » Wed Dec 03, 2014 4:44 pm

:beer: Congrats on getting your 250 running, it should be a great combo! :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

66WarPony
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #4 by 66WarPony » Fri Dec 05, 2014 1:30 pm

There were a couple pitfalls that I encountreed that everyone should be aware of:

1) The stock exhaust manifold does not fit; the ports on the manifold are about 1/16" taller then the exhaust ports the cylinder head itself, resulting in a serious exhaust leak by burning through the paper in the gasket. I'm going to try remedying this by filling the gap with silica bronze rod and then sanding flat.

2) I broke the mounting tab on the V8 clutch fork and I suspect incorrect geometry when used with the I6 equalizer bar and actuator rod; I won't know until I get it out of the bell, hopefully without having to pull the tranny and transfer case. I'll know more today around lunch.
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

jimmyv65
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #5 by jimmyv65 » Mon Dec 15, 2014 5:21 pm

Great to hear you got it in and fired up. It is a nice motor and should have been the one from the factory.

I hope the Weber 32/36 is big enough for you. I have a 38/38. I am still tuning(seems like that is an ongoing thing). I ended up jetting pretty big to get it right.

:beer:
1966 Bronco-'78 250-Meagsquirted TBI, DUI, Header, Cam, Hydroboost & Front Disc, Uncut, 1" body lift, 2.0" suspension lift

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rocklord
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #6 by rocklord » Wed Dec 17, 2014 9:37 am

jimmyv65 wrote:Great to hear you got it in and fired up. It is a nice motor and should have been the one from the factory.

I hope the Weber 32/36 is big enough for you. I have a 38/38. I am still tuning(seems like that is an ongoing thing). I ended up jetting pretty big to get it right.

:beer:


The Weber 32/36 is used on the 4.2L Jeep engine, so it should be fine.
He may be leaving power on the table by not going with the 38/38, but his gas mileage should be better.
Dan

Currently Own
1965 Mustang, 200CID, 3Spd
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #7 by jimmyv65 » Sat Feb 21, 2015 11:51 am

Anything new on this one? We've gone 2 months with out a post in the Bronco Busters. I need something!
1966 Bronco-'78 250-Meagsquirted TBI, DUI, Header, Cam, Hydroboost & Front Disc, Uncut, 1" body lift, 2.0" suspension lift

bmbm40
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #8 by bmbm40 » Sat Feb 21, 2015 7:12 pm

I thought I was the only junkie on here.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #9 by Prizefighter300 » Tue May 12, 2015 2:51 am

So how is this coming along?
1970 Ford Bronco EFI 300 Project
A few other Broncos

66WarPony
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #10 by 66WarPony » Fri Aug 28, 2015 3:44 pm

Hey guys, sorry it's been so long. School, work and life in general tend to get in the way often... anyway, after prematurely wearing out some pushrods and a rocker assembly, I'm gonna fire up the beast again this weekend. It is my intent on writing a proper tuning thread for the Weber DGV, as I've found some of inconsistencies regarding float bowl level height and initial idle speed screw settings that will ruin your tune every time. Example: 1) the depth of the float bowl in the body of the carburetor is 48mm (including the gasket), so setting the maximum float bowl travel for 51mm is unnecessary; 2) 2 1/2 turns in from first contact for my idle speed screw will uncover the progression circuit hole and will make it IMPOSSIBLE to properly tune the idle circuit, as the idle circuit must be isolated to properly tune it. For those of you running Webers, I highly suggest this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Carburetors ... eber+carbs

It is a wealth of knowledge and information. While I am at it, I want to dispel the notion that float bowl travel should be 2mm; rather it is the float bowl height what dictates (to an extent) when the mains kick in. It is simply matter of weight of the gas in the bowl vs pressure in the venturi that causes this. As soon as I can get her started and tuning the carb, I'll be starting a tuning thread on Webers, including emulsion tubes and air corrector jets. These carbs are capable of much more than what we think, evidenced by all the nonsense that I've seen on other websites by tuners who don't understand how each circuit works individually and in conjunction. More to come on this, cheers!
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #11 by bmbm40 » Sat Aug 29, 2015 4:19 pm

Sounds good. I am sure you want to spend some time driving it. Apparently the Weber takes a little time to get just right but worth the trouble. Looking forward to an update.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

bmbm40
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #12 by bmbm40 » Sat Aug 29, 2015 4:30 pm

I forgot to ask if you got the exhaust manifold problem resolved. Have you considered going with a header?
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

66WarPony
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #13 by 66WarPony » Sat Aug 29, 2015 4:44 pm

It's mostly reading the plugs when tuning the main circuit that's tricky. I found a much easier way to tune the idle circuit called the "idle up procedure" which involves turning the idle speed screw in so that it transitions to the progression circuit, then adjusting the mixture screw and changing idle jets accordingly. Once you get a good base tune, it's time to have fun with the emulsion tubes and air correctors. I'm not sure if I'll be messing with it today, it's 100+ degrees in my neck of the woods. As far as the manifold issue goes, I have that problem temporarily fixed: I filled in part of the ports with silicon bronze rod and then ground the entire manifold flush. As for a header, I'm probably going to go with a Mustangs Unlimited 6-1 (1.75" primaries, 2.5" collector) or a Clifford Performance 2 x 3-1. Unfortunately, you have to make the money before you can spend it.
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

bmbm40
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #14 by bmbm40 » Sat Aug 29, 2015 6:38 pm

They have a good selection of headers. I was surprised to see the long tube Hooker 6601 on there as I thought they were discontinued.


http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/search ... &x=11&y=13
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

66WarPony
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #15 by 66WarPony » Sun Aug 30, 2015 2:46 am

I think the Mustangs Unlimited 6-1 will be the easiest for setting up a turbo... I think a twin turbo setup on the Clifford headers would be some complicated plumbing and would not be worth the extra, time, fab and weight. It would look awesome though!
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

bmbm40
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #16 by bmbm40 » Sat Sep 26, 2015 3:48 pm

Yes it sure would be easier with 6-1. I did not know you were considering a turbo. That should make it real fast!
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

bmbm40
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #17 by bmbm40 » Sat Dec 26, 2015 10:52 am

How is your Bronco running?
Is hood clearance tight with your Aussie head/Weber carb. What air cleaner are you using? Installed a body lift yet?
I have recently become more interested in the Aussie head as a possible option for my Bronco. I know they are hard to find but am planning ahead and the ultimate decision will mostly be financial and whatever availability is. My original plan was the 2v conversion. The autolite 2100 is the carb I will use and original Ford 2v air cleaner with either head.
Thanks
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

66WarPony
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #18 by 66WarPony » Mon Apr 18, 2016 10:58 pm

bmbm40 wrote:How is your Bronco running?
Is hood clearance tight with your Aussie head/Weber carb. What air cleaner are you using? Installed a body lift yet?
I have recently become more interested in the Aussie head as a possible option for my Bronco. I know they are hard to find but am planning ahead and the ultimate decision will mostly be financial and whatever availability is. My original plan was the 2v conversion. The autolite 2100 is the carb I will use and original Ford 2v air cleaner with either head.
Thanks


Hey Brother, sorry it took so long to get back to you, I ran into all kinds of little problems (and big problems, like "money", haha). Aside from a weeping head gasket, the Bronco is running good; way better performance than the 3.3L and the small log manifold. I'm using the Redline Snorkel Kit with my Weber, and man, there's no room to speak of! I had to cut the bonnet to get the plenum to fit and it still has clearance issues. I just got the CI Intake Manifold in the mail and it looks like it will reduce my overall height by 1/2-3/4" or so. Even so, the plenum will still be sticking through the hood: I would have to do a body lift to completely clear it, and even then a 1" would be close. As for the air cleaner, I used a big K&N Filter that is cone-shaped, with the a circular filter on one end and an oval on the other. The Aussie 2V Manifold has a small base where the carb adapter bolts to; the adapter is a Holley to Stromberg pattern, which has a Weber to Holley adapter on top of that. The reason I had to go that route is because the Weber and Stromberg bolt patterns are so close that you couldn't use a single adapter plate because the bolt holes would overlap. The raised base on the Aussie 2V Manifold isn't wide enough to simply fill in the holes and drill and tap new ones. With the CI Manifold, I'm still using 2 adapters, but I think I'll eventually go to EFI, and it comes with a 4 BBL adapter. I may get rid of the Aussie head at some point if a I can come up with the cash for a CI Head (if there are any available by then). I thought about going triple Weber side drafts, but the cost of that is almost the same as EFI.
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

66WarPony
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #19 by 66WarPony » Mon Apr 18, 2016 11:05 pm

bmbm40 wrote:Yes it sure would be easier with 6-1. I did not know you were considering a turbo. That should make it real fast!


Heck yes it should! Turbo is the only way to go; I intend on doing a TTB D44/D50 Hybrid front end too. I'm still trying to figure out if it's possible to do Ackerman Steering with a TTB front end. I just wanna be different!
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

bmbm40
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #20 by bmbm40 » Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:21 pm

Quite a build you working on I am not familiar with Ackerman steering or TTB is this some kind of experimental racing Bronco or something? Sounds like the carb mounting got complicated. A 1"bl may give a bit more than 1" if you replace the rubber body bushings which is good since you have them ready to take out with the bl. Mine were squashed flat. I figure I got close to 1.5".
250 and a turbo equals a torque monster. You're gonna need that D44/50 cause you would pulverize that D30.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

66WarPony
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #21 by 66WarPony » Tue May 03, 2016 2:03 pm

bmbm40 wrote:Quite a build you working on I am not familiar with Ackerman steering or TTB is this some kind of experimental racing Bronco or something? Sounds like the carb mounting got complicated. A 1"bl may give a bit more than 1" if you replace the rubber body bushings which is good since you have them ready to take out with the bl. Mine were squashed flat. I figure I got close to 1.5".
250 and a turbo equals a torque monster. You're gonna need that D44/50 cause you would pulverize that D30.


Here's a good explanation of Ackerman Steering:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann ... g_geometry

I don't know if I would call it "experimental", but I want to be as different as I can: I want to rock crawl, go fast in the dirt, and have the most well rounded rig I can; it's not going to be the fastest racer, nor the baddest crawler. I want the best of both worlds, I want to build it right from the get-go, and enjoy it for as long as I can... you only have to cry once, and the lazy man works twice. She's got to be easy to drive, handle well, transport the family (now 3, hopefully 4 in a couple years), go anywhere, and still get the groceries.

There's a few criteria that needs to met:

1. Good power and decent gas mileage
2. Dependable
3. Durable
4. Be compatible with easy to source stock parts

#4 is the grey area: I can go with lengthened beams, which would require custom axles, or I could stay stock width. Either way, I'm going to plate my beams and install uniball joints. I'm considering the following drivetrain combinations:

Transmission
1. NP435
2. NV4550

Doubler
1. NP203 Rangebox

Transfer Case
1. NP205
2. LoMax 205

Rear Axle
1. Tru Hi 9 and Full Floater Kit
2. Full Floater rear

When people see my Bronco, I want them to appreciate the thought and design that went into it. That's a long ways off though... on a side note, replacing the body bushings is the start, but I also want to fabricate new body mount brackets with a 1" lift built into them. I think that would be more stable than body lift pucks, and I could make them a little wider and stronger by design. So many things to think about :hmmm:
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

bmbm40
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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #22 by bmbm40 » Thu May 05, 2016 8:10 pm

Well it sounds impressive and very ambitious. I can't provide any knowledgeable input as it is pretty advanced. With that kind of torque I would think the nv4550 for the od which provides such pleasant highway cruising and it is rated for big torque.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #23 by CoupeBoy » Fri May 06, 2016 1:18 pm

I'm just tossing this out there...
instead of separate body bushings and body lift pucks, or modifications to the frame, have you considered.
Custom Body Lift Kit 1-inch 1966-1977 Bronco $119.99
inch Body Lift Kit
Body lifts are an easy way to gain clearance for larger tires without going to excessive suspension lifts and creating extreme drive shaft angles. The body lift also helps to maintain a better center of gravity which means less body roll when cornering. Another reason for using a body lift is to add clearance needed for some transmission/transfer case swaps.

WILD HORSES body lifts feature mounting hardware consisting of 7/16" grade 8 bolts and all the correct size thick cad plated washers and cad plated thick mount inserts to prevent over tightening. The 1" kit uses taller urethane body mounts with no added block for those who want just a little extra clearance.

WH body hardware kits are designed for use with stock steel bodies. Some bolts may or may not fit modified steel bodies and may or may not fit some fiberglass bodies.
In regards to the TTB 44/50, most of the reading I've seen has just the outer knuckles of the 44 cut off and the 50's welded on for larger outer u-joints. Out of curiosity are you planning on doing a "Cut and Turn"? (this article also talks about D44's)
Dana 35 TTB Cut And Turn - Why & How -- TheRangerStation.com

I know I've seen articles that talk about using D50 parts in a D44, I'll have to find them again.

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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #24 by 66WarPony » Fri May 06, 2016 1:59 pm

CoupeBoy wrote:I'm just tossing this out there...
instead of separate body bushings and body lift pucks, or modifications to the frame, have you considered.
Custom Body Lift Kit 1-inch 1966-1977 Bronco $119.99
inch Body Lift Kit
Body lifts are an easy way to gain clearance for larger tires without going to excessive suspension lifts and creating extreme drive shaft angles. The body lift also helps to maintain a better center of gravity which means less body roll when cornering. Another reason for using a body lift is to add clearance needed for some transmission/transfer case swaps.

WILD HORSES body lifts feature mounting hardware consisting of 7/16" grade 8 bolts and all the correct size thick cad plated washers and cad plated thick mount inserts to prevent over tightening. The 1" kit uses taller urethane body mounts with no added block for those who want just a little extra clearance.

WH body hardware kits are designed for use with stock steel bodies. Some bolts may or may not fit modified steel bodies and may or may not fit some fiberglass bodies.
In regards to the TTB 44/50, most of the reading I've seen has just the outer knuckles of the 44 cut off and the 50's welded on for larger outer u-joints. Out of curiosity are you planning on doing a "Cut and Turn"? (this article also talks about D44's)
Dana 35 TTB Cut And Turn - Why & How -- TheRangerStation.com

I know I've seen articles that talk about using D50 parts in a D44, I'll have to find them again.


I have thought about body lift kits, but I feel that thicker, reinforced structures welded directly to the frame (with 1" lift built in) will only increase stability; I would also like the option to be able to tie other structures, such as rock guards, into these body mount structures. As for cutting and turning: it's a little early in the game to make a call on that. It's going to depend primarily on what kind of travel numbers I can get in the stock configuration; I think 20" of travel is a nice number, with a 60/40 split (12" up/8" down). I don't seem to be able to find any stock travel numbers anywhere, so I think the only way for me to find out is to build a mock up frame and crossmember, and cycle the beams. I am going to make the beams equal length, plate and truss them, and then go from there. I could 1) cut and turn the beams; 2) modify the beams to have the lift built in (by moving the uniball joint out and up); build a subframe for the beam pivots (with lift built in); or a combination. I would like to avoid unnecessary modifications if I can: moving the pivot points on the beams themselves will put added stresses on them; extending the beams will do the same because of the added leverage. The intent is to design the system first: get frame measurements, play with some wheel base and ride height numbers, check the stock travel numbers, then figure out how much the geometry needs to change. I'd like to do 100" to 104" wheelbase, 35" to 37" tires, 2" to 4" lift, and full size Bronco axle widths; I think those are realistic system numbers that are attainable without having to overbuild everything. I want her to be strong, but not weigh so much that she can't move fast.
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

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Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #25 by chad » Sun May 29, 2016 12:00 pm

Thanks for the readable color font.
Thanks for the help/ideas in the past.
Will be interested to see what you come up with as you go along (if so lucky as 2 C it develop here). No 4 link?

With that sz tires (speakin of beasts) wonder if you've seen 'house of diesels' build over at FTE?:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/91433 ... -mtrs.html

Others I view for suspension mods are on classisbronks & the Ruff Stuff catalogue…
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

bmbm40
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Posts: 1228
Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 6:25 pm
Location: Carson City, NV

Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #26 by bmbm40 » Sat Jun 18, 2016 1:15 pm

I was reading your suspension plans again, pretty advanced stuff really. Can you do all that yourself? If so you must have good fab skills.
I wish had thought about when the springs and axle were exposed on mine was moving the axle back. I hear you can move it back about 1.25" just re-drilling the holes in the existing parts. The tires look too far forward in the wheel openings. Not sure of the best way to go as I might want to move it back a bit more. Need to start looking to see what the Bronco vendors have as I am thinking about new rear springs any way.
Mine will never have larger than 31s but want them to look right and even a couple inches more wheelbase may help the handling.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

66WarPony
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Posts: 89
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:36 pm
Location: Oak View, CA

Re: 250 IS IN AND THE BEAST LIVES!!!

Post #27 by 66WarPony » Sat Jun 18, 2016 1:54 pm

bmbm40 wrote:I was reading your suspension plans again, pretty advanced stuff really. Can you do all that yourself? If so you must have good fab skills.
I wish had thought about when the springs and axle were exposed on mine was moving the axle back. I hear you can move it back about 1.25" just re-drilling the holes in the existing parts. The tires look too far forward in the wheel openings. Not sure of the best way to go as I might want to move it back a bit more. Need to start looking to see what the Bronco vendors have as I am thinking about new rear springs any way.
Mine will never have larger than 31s but want them to look right and even a couple inches more wheelbase may help the handling.


My fab skills are pretty damn good, but I lack the advanced tools of a fab shop, such as a mill, lathe, tig welder, drill press, tubing bender, band saw, and sheet metal break. That's what the focus of this year is going to be, along with a lot of reading and planning. A good friend of mine has been in fab for over about 25 years, and has had a couple prerunner trucks in magazines, so I also have a good source of advice for my questions.

Remember that as your leaf springs flatten out during compression, your wheel will move back some. That's something to consider when thinking about repositioning your wheels further back.
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

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