Shopping For a Bronco

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CoupeBoy
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Shopping For a Bronco

Post #1 by CoupeBoy » Tue Nov 17, 2015 11:15 am

My wife is starting to get jittery about having to park "her" 1968 Mustang and being 'trapped' in her (gasp the horrors) 2012 Tahoe LT (all options, leather, heated front and back seats, ABS, Traction Control, 4wd) oh the huge manatee, who could bear such horrors.

So she is looking for something less reliable, louder, worse handling on ice, and louder on the inside.. her idea.. a classic Bronco of course!
After YEARS of convincing me that I had enough projects, SHE is telling ME to find and buy one. She told me to buy the best project Bronco I can find for around $3000.
I'm still kicking myself for not buying the Bronco puzzle last year.
Talk me off a cliff.. or over it.. FordSix Forum
I've been talking to this guy
Three Ford Bronco - 1966 to 1968 -- Fargo Craigslist (these one are actually outside Thief River Falls MN)
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I have three broncos from 1966 to 1968 in varying working condition. Looking to take offers for one or all three of them.

First is a 1966 white Bronco with a 6 cylinder motor that turns over, 3 speed transmission, needs tires and rims. Has some rust in the floor, otherwise the body is solid.

Second is a black '66 bronco with a 289 v8 motor that turns over, body is still solid with little rust, comes with a myer's brand snowplow attachment.

Lastly I have a Blue '68 bronco with a v8 motor that does not turn over. No radiator, no real axle. Body is still solid.

If you have questions or would like to make an offer, please don't hesitate to call me. Please do call though as I cannot answer texts with my phone.
This one in South Dakota is a strong contender. Its not bad, but it doesn't feel right either.
66 bronco half cab - $5500 (roslyn)
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I've been texting with a buy from Bowman ND who has a 1974 Bronco 302/Auto (no doors/no top/no seats) completely rusted off the quarter panels, $1000
Runs and Drives, just missing a bunch of parts. But it might be worth picking up just to have a solid drivetrain.
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Early Broncos are not terribly common in this area and I'm willing to look elsewhere. Anybody have any leads for early bronco projects in my price range?
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #2 by bmbm40 » Tue Nov 17, 2015 7:06 pm

Usually a few on classicbroncos.com although I have seen a few in the dfw area that looked ok on craigslist in the past year. Unfortunately they have increased in price a bit the past few years. Your wife is really smart to want to buy one.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #3 by CoupeBoy » Tue Nov 17, 2015 7:17 pm

I already knew she was smart.
She married me after all. :lol:

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #4 by bubba22349 » Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:21 pm

:thumbup: That white one looks fairly decent if its not priced too high. :shock: And you probably already have some of the Ford running gear you could use to build any of those. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #5 by CoupeBoy » Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:24 pm

A drivetrain is not the problem.
I'm always concerned that I'm going to buy one and then find out that there is some "unobtainable " part that I never knew about that is going to cost me an arm and a leg.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #6 by bubba22349 » Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:30 pm

:hmmm: Stock they were so basic, I dont think there is anything that's very hard to find for body or the chassis.
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #7 by bmbm40 » Sat Nov 21, 2015 4:18 pm

There is not any unobtainable parts that I know of. Check out toms broncos, wild horses and other bronco suppliers for parts. Drive train is just typical ford stuff.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #8 by 1966Mustang » Sun Nov 22, 2015 1:54 am

Decisions! decisions! And they say we come up with these crazy ideas... How soon would she like one that's suitably drivable? All of those 3 look like 30K+ restoration projects. Values on SUVs are going up up up. Theres a shop here in town that did a 110K resto on a bronko! (I think its a concours resto though). I think the broncos are good looking and probably as good as anyother place to invest in a car. Search mrytle beach craigslist and associated areas here on the east coast.
This is similar to how I wound up with a 94 Land Cruiser. Triple lockers, fully loaded, leather, etc. Wife loves the Land Crusher but she's only driven it like 5 times. 'It's not fast enough... and it feels heavy... and doesn't stop quick... and is bad on gas.' :shock: . I can only imagine what that poor thing had gone through! (The truck. Wife is fine).
The other week she couldn't climb in with her heels on. "You need to get me those side step things..." Yes dear, I said - they're called 'rock sliders'. "I dont care what they're called, get them." OK boss, it's your truck :D
It may not be a Ford, but... it's a damn fine inline! Not a project. And I did pay above book value - well cared for TONS of service records. First owner had it for 20 years, 2nd owner for almost 2 and is a toyota enthusiast/club officer.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #9 by CoupeBoy » Tue Nov 24, 2015 12:47 pm

1966Mustang... triple lockers? Where is the third axle? :rolflmao:

Her immediate rush to buy something has been quelled by reality.. The '68 Mustang needs some repairs, and she wants it buttoned up by Spring melt. She also realized that in order to get a Bronco that is drivable right out of the box, we'd have to spend more than she wants to. And if we get one in her price range it will require work to be drivable.

To be perfectly clear.
I do not restore, I won't be researching paint brush swab techniques, I won't be putting a natural finish on the driveline with measured stripes of particular colors.
I rebuild, down to the local parts store for compatible replacement parts, install as necessary.
(start chorus)
I drive
I break
I fix
(repeat chorus)

When we bought the '68 Mustang back in 2000, the entire rebuild cost $9,000, this includes original purchase price, I have the receipts in a binder. That includes both fenders, the passenger quarter panel, headlight and taillight extensions on the passenger side, rebuilding the door hinges, replacing window regulators, new cushions and upholstery on the front seats (rear is original) new carpet, new UCA and LCA, complete rebuild on brakes, complete rebuild on Power steering (except steering box itself), edelbrock carb/cam/intake.

Was it ever perfect? absolutely not.
Are there a lot of people jealous that my wife gets to drive it every day (weather permitting)? absolutely.
Are there things that I'd change? absolutely.
Does that keep it from being on the road? Not at all.

Before
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15 years later on a garage paint job, almost 30,000 miles in the last 2 years alone, and I live on a gravel road.
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$30,000 just seems like a ridiculous number for a hobbyist. Unless he charges himself for his own labor :roll:
She's OK with drafty weather stripping, she will be driving with the windows down, or top off most of the time anyhow, I really doubt she'd turn it into a full time winter vehicle.
She's ok with excessive road noise (see above)
She's OK with wandering steering (within reason)
She's OK with 4 wheel non-power drum brakes
she doesn't care if the bottom side has been media blasted and undercoated with lizard skin.

Mechanically safe, no rust (that she knows of), and functional are her requirements.

I found a guy here in Fargo that has complete running gear for an i6/3speed (frame/axles/engine/transmission) that he is willing to sell. I'm going to go take a look at it sometime soon.

Why was I worried that there was something special about the transmissions, bellhousing specifically? I imagined that the Broncos had special short ones to fit into the confined space?

I haven't ridden in an early Bronco since... 1985.. Mom had a blue with white top, v8/auto/dual tanks. It wasn't the perfect vehicle for hauling around 5 kids and a dog; but she still did it..

does anybody know off the top of their head, how much does a first gen bronco weigh?

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #10 by bmbm40 » Tue Nov 24, 2015 1:10 pm

I like your plan for building a good driver, if restored i would worry too much about driving it. I did my own body work on my bronco and it is getting a garage paint job. I collected mostly used parts for over a year until I had what I needed. I weighed my bronco on a truck scale and with driver, half tank gas and no roll cage it was about 3900 lbs.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #11 by CoupeBoy » Tue Nov 24, 2015 1:49 pm

BMB40, do you have a build thread anywhere? I'd be curious to see how that NV install went in.
And I'd also be curious to know why you said this in another thread.
bmbm40 wrote:Do a 1" body lift. Your rubber body bushings are most likely in need of replacement anyway. I slotted my motor mounts to drop the 250 lower but doubt if it was really needed. I have no hood clearance issues with the stock air cleaner.
I went with the NV3550 which is the best choice in my opinion but if i did it again I would use the M50D as it would probably cost a lot less. The torque characteristics of the 250 are well suited to the bronco along with a trans upgrade it is a great driving experience.
I'm curious because I have a M5OD w/transfer case sitting on the barn floor, it was bought years ago as a spare for my brother's '94F150 after he chucked a driveline and shattered the bellhousing. I have (2) 250's, and a 157tooth flywheel from a 250.

If you didn't know.. I'm a hoarder (I am not currently seeking rehab) I collect parts for years as they become available, never really knowing when or if I will need them.

This weekend I made a trip to Dad's house and picked up a few things.. I went there for the old house furnace on the left (its green/grey thing on the left), and yes my shop is ALWAYS in disarray.
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I left with
(1) 3.03 from a '66 Mustang
(1) SROD (unknown origin)
(1) T-10 4 speed (spare for the Falcon)
(1) SBF bellhousing
(1) SBF Edelbrock Performer 289 intake
(1) Holley Carb (unknown size)
(1) 1967 Mustang 200/auto radiator
(1) Upper Control arm, rusty... from a '67/68 Mustang.
(4) core batteries, I've already traded in 2 of them for new batteries

All the motors were already in the shop before I got more stuff.. I'm trying to figure out the best way to store the engines to reduce their footprint..
The motors are from left to right..
300 shortblock, but the head is right there on the floor... :roll:
240 black longblock with bellhousing
300 longblock
250 longblock
300 shortblock
You can't see it but immediately to the right is a '67 200/C4 out of a Mustang, and then by the main walk door is a 1970 170...
the other 250 is still sitting in my other Mustang, the '67 that I've owned since '93... back when I was young and dumb(er), I removed the fender, sanded and painted the engine compartment, and then started sanding the car :bang:
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and it still isn't a high enough priority to make it a current project..

What is funny (to me) that my local Mustang club has a member that has a Bronco with the half cab top, he built and installed a 400. He lives with the regret of that much weight on the front end all the time, he regrets spending the money to modify the oil pan to make it fit, he regrets building a 400 at all. He said if he had to do it all over again, he would most likely do a 302 or a 351W at most.

And here we are installing motors half that size.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #12 by 1966Mustang » Thu Nov 26, 2015 12:14 am

Coupeboy... the 3rd diff front diff, center diff, rear diff... 3 lockers. :p
Don't make me send you to ih8mud.com!!!:)

Have a great TG all!!!

Perry
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #13 by bmbm40 » Thu Nov 26, 2015 6:01 pm

I did not take any pictures installing the 3550 but it was fairly uneventful. The reason I mention th m50 is it should bolt up to the 250 because thr 250 has the SBf bell pattern saving the cost of that adapter. So you just need the aa adapter to the d20. I think the m50 has a hydraulic clutch so you have to deal with that. I seem to recall a couple of guys on classicbroncos.com using them so may be info on that. The m50 receives comments about durability but ford put them in a lot of trucks and my friends f150 had the m50 and it worked fine with close to 200k miles. Also I suspect ther are lots of them in the wrecking yards.
Big v8s are fun but a mild built 250 should be close to what a 302 has. And is way lighter and easier to cool than a 400.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #14 by CoupeBoy » Fri Nov 27, 2015 2:23 pm

1966Mustang wrote:3rd diff front diff, center diff, rear diff... 3 lockers. :p
That is the same setup the full sized Jeep Cherokee's had back int he late 70's early 80's in their Quadratrac system. Awesome in snow, great for pulling your friends out of tough situations, terrible gas mileage with a 360/auto :roll:

bmbm40, obviously I need to do more reading, but I know I've seen references to people swapping in other NP transfer case models (205 or 203). If I have no sentimental attachment to the D20, is there any reason to adapt/keep it? My first assumption is that people keep them so they don't have to redo drivelines.

In regards to motors, I gave up thinking I needed the biggest loudest motors back in my teen years, you can't sneak out of the yard with dual straight pipe exhaust (or short glass packs as many of my friends had) and in my experience larger HP motor are better at breaking parts compared to their smaller brethren. I guarantee that if a person were to compare the hp/tq spec of my wife's current 289 (C-code upgraded with edelbrock intake/carb/cam/lifters) that the 250 with a 2bbl, the 250 would beat it in regards to torque at almost all RPMs.

Whats the old saying..
"you race HP, you drive torque"

-ron

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #15 by bmbm40 » Sun Nov 29, 2015 12:36 pm

I can't remember for sure but seems like there was a discussion on classicbroncos.com about the NP transfer case being a bit to large for a 66-77 frame. Might want to search that site, those guys have researched just about everything for Broncos. The NP is probably a better transfer case than the d20.
Low end torque is good for Bronco driving and the 250 seems to have quite a bit more than the 200 I had. My 250 was a low mileage used motor with a new valve job. Combined with the 5sp od it is a completely different driving experience from before. I never bought a Bronco to drive fast but being able to cruise at 65 comfortably makes it a practical daily driver.
You have some good drivetrain parts already, hope you can find a decent Bronco starting point.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #16 by 1966Mustang » Tue Dec 01, 2015 10:49 pm

Here's a bunch of parts...
http://outerbanks.craigslist.org/pts/5284227942.html

This one has a six and is drivable already...
http://charlestonwv.craigslist.org/cto/5299438296.html

- Perry
'65 Mustang Coupe, C4, DUI, CompCams 260, Addco 1", StreetOrTrack Front Bilstein Coilover System, Bilstein Rear Shocks, 4-1/2 leaf springs.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #17 by CoupeBoy » Wed Dec 02, 2015 1:18 pm

Here's my problem with the second one.
It is on the higher end of what I'd ever consider, I have seen a lot more Early Broncos for less that are more attractive.

I don't want a bench seat (not even if it is rare)
It looks nice, but I have rarely seen cutout rear fenders that look right, and that one has only fender flares on the rear. The ones that I have seen that are decent looking are either uncut or have matching flares front/rear. So in my mind to fix those would be the same as replacing a rusted quarter panel. And at that point, I have to repaint it. That is kind of a deal killer since his original price was based on the Bronco being in good condition.

I am always wary of new(erish) paint, unless accompanied by rebuild/stripped down pictures.
What is the deal with the weirdness on the driver side of the hood?
This may just be me judging things over the internet, but the paint looks shoddy, not a huge fan of flat black, the paint on the topper looks like it is damaged. The rocker panel guards make me question what is behind them, I'd need more pictures of the bottom of it.

However the guy might be worth calling about his other listed project broncos, I checked the CL that the ad was originally listed and didn't seen any others.

This summer I saw a 1970 Bronco v8/auto sell on an auto auction (onsite and online) for $9500, and I feel sorry for the guy who bought it over the internet, the floors were rusted out, the dash was covered in speaker box fuzz/carpet, where the quarter panels have the body line was rusting on both sides, there was a torn hole in the fender where the antenna should have been bolted.

I've become synical in my old age.. I assume every old car I buy is going to need everything, brakes, drivetrain, suspension, interior, rust repair, body and paint work.

I've been emailing with this guy..
69 bronco not junk - $1200 (frederic)
Image
He seems to be more interested in old full sized GM or Dodge cars than money.

The 3 up north of me are still for sale, and as 'luck' would have it, I have a friend that needs a 4x4 and is going to be buying my 'spare' 1998 Tahoe.
I'm in no rush, its either going to be the right one at the right price, or I'll continue circling until something looks too good to pass up.

I still haven't gone and looked at the i6/3.03 running gear over in West Fargo yet either.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #18 by bmbm40 » Wed Dec 02, 2015 6:44 pm

That one for 1200 looks like a good buy to me from what I can see. Might be a little different in person.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #19 by edgewood bronco » Thu Dec 03, 2015 12:28 am

I agree with bmbm, the white one looks good from afar. Wish mine was in that condition when I started it. The door seems to fit well, and like you, I'd rather see original paint than a newish layer hiding a bondo bucket. Apart from the rusty seams I had ( replaced all four door posts, floors, rockers.... ugh), I found fatigue cracks in the edges of the hood, about directly above the axles. Not a big deal to weld up, but something you want ot catch before you refinish. You can buy every panel/component from various sources including Toms, the Graveyard, Wildhorses, Carpenter. Not sure if that one is a 66 or 67 (no side marker lights, so one of the two), interior parts and some other components are unique to those years (had Dana 30 front axle, not D44, different shock configuration in rear...). Early years had Borg-warner drive shafts, not Spicer (but that's easily converted if yours are in need of repair). I see in my latest Tom's email that they are now even reproducing the correct dash pad for 66/67. As far as I know, the only things unique to 66 that are not being reproduced are the wheel covers (ca. $1K for a set if you can find them) and the non-angled bumpers. Later years fit, of course. I believe the Graveyard has a synopsis of the evolution of the 12 years of the EB somewhere on their website. There's one somewhere on the web.
I drive conservatively, and a 200 six with a 2bbl is all I want. I can cruise at 65 on the interstate and not feel like it's wound too tight, but it likes the 40's and 50's better and loves the back roads. Mine is stock drivetrain with 4.11 gears. It has enough guts to pass in a reasonable distance as long as you're not going up too steep of a hill. I'm getting 16 MPG, which I feel is pretty good without overdrive.
They're pretty straightforward to work on. I put a set of bucket seats out of a Hyundai Elantra in mine. They're great, holes aligned quite well on the floor. Howver, I'm 5 feet 11 and wouldn't want to be any taller - the original seats are apparently an inch or so shorter. There's plenty of head clearance, but it's a vision issue. gotta slouch a bit to see.
The ride is stiff, and combined with a short wheelbase, it's a real bone-jostling trip!!
62 F100 223
66 Bronco 200; autolite 2100 2 bbl conversion: Lovin' it!

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #20 by CoupeBoy » Thu Dec 03, 2015 11:46 am

Edgewood's story is precisely what I'm talking/worried about.
Getting into a 'good' project only to find that it needs a lot of work.
It doesn't matter what they look like before purchasing, there is bound to be unforeseen issues.
It seems that these older Broncos all have issues somewhere.

I'm not terribly worried about originality, I'd prefer high back bucket seats, after 15 years of the stock low back's in the '68 Mustang, I've had about enough of those.
I will likely end up with aftermarket wheels and slightly larger than stock tires.

For the most part the part of ND where I live is the flattest/straightest piece of dirt in the US, and NO, I am not kidding.
The Longest Straight Roads In The World -- Jalopnik.com
I live near #3, #8 is also in ND.
Image
3.) Highway 46, North Dakota

A road that is basically 119 miles with nary a corner. Sure, there are a few kinks, but holy guacamole is this thing long and straight.

The kinks break up the straight parts, but hey, 31 miles of straight and then a kink so slight you have to nudge the wheel with your knee, maybe, barely counts in our book.
I29 from Sioux Falls to the Canadian border isn't much better, and i94 from Fargo to Dickenson isn't exactly curvy either. There isn't much for 4wheeling, but we do get snow/ice. While I'm certain that a D30 would last forever, if the Bronco I end up with doesn't have a D44, I'll find one eventually more for ease of parts swapping/upgrades.

85-90% of driving will be on the open road/highway, the other 10-15% will be in town, getting to work or running errands.
a lot of our 2-lane highways are 65MPH and our interstates are 75MPH, so I will need to be able to attain local highway speeds.

While I'd prefer a manual, what are the popular Automatic transmission upgrades? Are any of the overdrives fairly straight forward?

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #21 by CoupeBoy » Thu Dec 03, 2015 4:50 pm

This one looks like a good old fashioned farm truck, driven little, original owner and paint. It has that 'owned by an old farmer' vibe going for it. I am afraid that the rust on the passenger side looks like it could be fairly extensive. But he is only 2hrs away.
1975 bronco - $2800 (Menahga)
Image
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59,000 1 owner 3 on tree 302 motor needs carb work acelerator pump, but runs and drives ! Trade for plow truck maybe or straight cash . Call or text 218.252.2359. Tailgate rusty and floorboards but still solid

bmbm40
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #22 by bmbm40 » Thu Dec 03, 2015 8:09 pm

Yeah you're going to need od. The 250 would attach to an aod or 3550/M50.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #23 by edgewood bronco » Sat Dec 05, 2015 12:41 pm

Another thing to consider, especially in snow country (and forgive me if I'm pointing out the obvious): These Broncos were popular plow vehicles. As such they get beaten against snow piles all winter long. Growing up we had two... The one I have now, and a 68 with a 289. The 68 had been used extensively as a plow truck, and there was a lot of slop in the drive train/suspension/steering. Mine with the six is tight and tracks straight on the highway at 65 mph. Miles on both vehicles was about the same. The point is, whether it's pushing snow around, or getting through a muddy, pot-holed road, people tend to use brute force and ignorance when driving the eight, as opposed to finesse when driving the six.

I knew what I had getting into mine. No surprises, but that doesn't mean it wasn't lots of work, and took 5 x longer than I originally anticipated (ca. 8 years of evenings/weekends with some long hiatuses in there). It was rather solid for a Michigan truck, but that's a relative thing for there. living in New Mexico now, I shake my head when I look under classic cars and see factory tight rust-free seams. Can't wait to get to my next project, a Cougar that spent its life here... It's not too hard to identify the rust on these Broncos because they are very open underneath. No fender liners to hide anything. Make sure you brush off any mud and beware of undercoating that traps moisture and hides structural rust. Look for rust in the seams in the front wheel wells, lift the hood and look for rust in those inner fender seams and the seams where the firewall and toeboards meet the side kick panel as well. Those long horizontal rear quarter seams are visible from inside the bed. Rust in the seam at the bottom of the door might require unfolding the door skin along the bottom edge to get the rust out and then hammering it back over. A bit of used motor oil applied carefully in that seam from the inside after everything is refinished will keep new rust at bay.

That green one looks a bit lacey on the passenger side, as you say. Not the greatest photos to know how deep it goes. Is the driver's door way out of alignment, or is that just paint damage along the bottom edge of the door that makes it look like it sticks way inboard of the rocker?
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66 Bronco 200; autolite 2100 2 bbl conversion: Lovin' it!

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #24 by CoupeBoy » Sat Dec 05, 2015 12:50 pm

Today or tomorrow I'm going to look at that green one.
I'll be all over it taking pictures.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #25 by edgewood bronco » Sat Dec 05, 2015 1:31 pm

Post them if you want input.
I'm out the door to clean a hunting trip's worth of mud off of mine...
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #26 by CoupeBoy » Sun Dec 06, 2015 12:20 pm

for those of you who have had to do body panel replacements

what companies have you used?
are there better or worse quality panels to avoid?

thanks
-ron

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #27 by bmbm40 » Sun Dec 06, 2015 6:31 pm

I used two rockers and driver side floor that had Dennis Carpenter stickers on them I seem to recall. If I was going to do it again I would just leave the rockers off. I have seen them like this some had rock skis some had nothing, sort of liked the plain look.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #28 by CoupeBoy » Mon Dec 07, 2015 6:00 pm

This is why I need a second drive axle, sorry guys, this my Mustang is not a six.
*somebody* ahem, my wife attempted to move the Mustang into the barn and got it stuck in the front yard.
I got it 'unstuck'. This is my yard, and I tore it up quite a bit more after she got in.
https://youtu.be/OzVZgT864NA

Whether or not I buy the latest green one, eventually I will buy one, I want it uncut, and I want to run 33" tall tires, yes I know it will hurt MPG, but as the meme states.. (I couldn't find a version with a Bronco)
39.5MPG.jpg


I just started looking at lift kits
I do plan on installing a 1" body lift, I had already planned on replacing the body bushings, but I stumbled upon this 1" body lift on another forum, it is replacement bushings that are 1" taller.
Custom Body Lift Kit 1-inch 1966-1977 Bronco -- WildHorses4x4.com $109 on sale for $100.

I'd like to keep the center of gravity as low as possible while still fitting the tires under the sheet metal. Keep in mind that I won't be doing any real off roading, I may put it through a mud pit once or twice a year, and if I'm really lucky I may take it on some mild off road trails, but I won't be hitting the hammers any time soon.

I like the ride height and tire sizes that jimmyv65 has on his, I couldn't find his tire size in the build thread.
Dropping a 250 into a Bronco -- FordSix Forum
Image

I found this 1" body lift on another forum, it is replacement bushings that are 1" taller.
Custom Body Lift Kit 1-inch 1966-1977 Bronco -- WildHorses4x4.com $109 on sale for $100.
I'm looking at kits that come with basically everything, front coils, rear leaves, C-bushings for correcting axle rotation, extended hydraulic brake lines, extended emergency brake lines

If I don't buy a kit with extended lines, are there any decent sources for extended brake cables and lines?
Are there any known OE sources of swap cables?
for example, are there any F150 rear brake cables

I thought I read somewhere that any lift above 3.5" is where people really start running into problems with steering (drop pitman/track bar) and driveline angles.

Sadly I'm playing the games of options and issues in my head.
I've read that for overdrive transmissions people usually end up installing body lifts, but what if you lowered the entire drivetrain instead?
And then used a full skid plate to protect the dangly bits?
Or does that aggravate the oil pan to front differential clearance issue?

I've also been reading that with some lift kits, the rear axle is moved forward due to the curvature of the new springs, and that the axle centering pin hole needs to be re-drilled in the leaf spring perch to re-center the rear axle.

What about the front axle, can it be moved forward at all before the steering and/or track bar start binding?
I'm wondering about extending the wheelbase to add a little stability at higher speeds, I know it can't/won't be much. But when I swap in a 5 speed, I'll have to get new drivelines made at some point, so I may as well see what can be done.

I'm going to need a support group.... :rolflmao:
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #29 by bmbm40 » Tue Dec 08, 2015 7:36 pm

I wish I had moved the rear axle back when I was deep into mine. It looks odd with the rear tire forward in the wheel opening. And I only have 30's right now but going to 31's.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #30 by edgewood bronco » Tue Dec 08, 2015 9:15 pm

CoupeBoy wrote:for those of you who have had to do body panel replacements

what companies have you used?
are there better or worse quality panels to avoid?

thanks
-ron

I looked back at my orders for sheet metal and found that I ordered one slip-on rocker from LMC. My inner rockers were good, and the left one was passable, so I patched it and left it alone. For the right one, the door sill was good, so I cut the outer rocker off just below the door opening along the whole opening. This way I was using the factory edge of the door sill where it turns vertical to the visible face (when the door is closed) of the rocker. I then made a corresponding cut on the patch panel and welded the patch in place. I don't remember if I used the factory seam between the rocker and quarter panel or not. I drilled the spot welds on the bottom of the rocker where it attaches to the inner rocker.

Given the amount of cutting and fitting I did, I can't really say how well it would have fit if I'd have tried to take out the entire old one and install the new one.

Unfortunately I was robbed a couple years ago and I lost all my photos of that stage of the project, or I'd gladly post them...

I don't know anything about body lifts. If the chassis is tight and straight, you'll be impressed with how well it tracks from the factory. Mine has 40,000 miles on it, and I can drive 70 with a couple of fingers on the wheel. lowering the whole drive train is an intriguing idea that could have some merit :hmmm: Front axle - oil pan clearance might be the only issue.

Andy
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #31 by CoupeBoy » Wed Dec 09, 2015 2:58 pm

edgewood bronco wrote:Unfortunately I was robbed a couple years ago and I lost all my photos of that stage of the project, or I'd gladly post them...
Who steals photos? I have to assume they were digital only and not backed up anywhere?
edgewood bronco wrote:I don't know anything about body lifts.
I figured that new body bushings couldn't possibly hurt, and for $100, new bushings that are 1" taller and come with the mounting hardware is a no brainer, I've seen enough taller body lifts that I know I don't even want to deal with them, they start having huge gaps, linkages for shifting, clutch, and steering start needing extensions; I'm hoping 1" BL doesn't cause too many issues.
edgewood bronco wrote: If the chassis is tight and straight, you'll be impressed with how well it tracks from the factory. Mine has 40,000 miles on it
40,000 total, or 40,000 since you rebuilt it? FWIW, my wife put 13,500 miles on my '68 Mustang last year, and another 14,000 this year.
edgewood bronco wrote:and I can drive 70 with a couple of fingers on the wheel
That I like to hear.
edgewood bronco wrote:lowering the whole drive train is an intriguing idea that could have some merit :hmmm: Front axle - oil pan clearance might be the only issue.
It came to me as a thought.. on one of the other forums that I am a member of, a guy lowered his entire motor/trans in his Mustang so he had transmission tunnel clearance for T56, he made custom motor mounts and crossmember.

Since I haven't been in or taken a good look at an EB in a very very very long time, I could be full of Bovine Scat on some of my ideas.

I spent an inordinate amount of time yesterday looking at lift kits. I'm going to order a kit that has everything
front springs, c-bushings, rear springs, brake hoses, emergency brake lines, u-bolts, shackle bushings, and shocks.
I realize that a lot of people are going to say you can do better than a kit by itemizing some of these, for example Bilsteins 5100 instead of the white box the vender gives as part of the kit.
The problem is that I have no frame of reference, and I don't want to be piecing together something that 'should' work. At this time I'd rather open a box and go, for the sake of time and that the kit *should* just work.

I went online shopping.
Wild Horses, Toms Bronco Parts, James Duff, Rocky Mountain Suspension -- superlift and skyjacker, and Jeff's Bronco Graveyard.
You can really run the gambit on pricing and options, I looked at 2.5-5.5" lifts.

There were several kits that I looked at yesterday that had all of my wish list was
I am assuming that people stick with the 2.5" lifts because it reduces/eliminates the need for driveline modifications?
2.5 Superflex Deluxe Lift Kit System, 1966-75 -- Bronco Graveyard $809.00 (linear rate coil springs)

But if possible without driveline modifications, I'd rather go with a 3.5" lift kit, JBG also offers.
3.5 Long Travel Deluxe Lift Kit System, 1966-75 -- Bronco Graveyard$799.00 (variable rate coil springs)
For $10 less, it also includes variable rate coils, a plus in my book, a track bar drop bracket, and a drop pitman arm. (now that is some weird math)

And if I am really serious about 33" tall tires, and I need to do driveline modifications anyhow...
I should get my wallet ready for driveline modifications and order this one
5.5 Ultra Deluxe Kit, 1966-75 -- Bronco Graveyard $849.00
includes drop pitman arm, drop track bar, adjustable track bar, and drop radius arm brackets.

Crabapples, I called Bronco Graveyard and after talking to the technician, *IF* I were to but a 5.5" kit from them, he thought this would be a better option.
5.5 Superflex Lift Kit System, 1966-75 -- Bronco Graveyard $925
According to the technician, all of their coil springs are linear rated, even though the website says variable.
The Ultra Deluxe springs (according to him) are rated at 415lbs/in and are 20" when off the vehicle
The Superflex coils (again according to him) are rated at 190lbs/in and are 23.5" when off the vehicle.
He did not give me specs on the spring rates for the rear, but the
Ultra Deluxe leaves are a 5-leaf pack and he said they would be stiff.
SuperFlex leaves are an 11-leaf pack and would be much softer.
He said that none of their kits are rated for a 33" tall tire under an uncut Bronco, but with a body lift they should fit.
FWIW, according to their webpage you can fit the following tires with each kit.
Ultra Deluxe
Tire / Wheel Recommendations 32 x 11.50 on a standard offset wheel. Uncut wheel wells
Tire / Wheel Recommendations 35 x 12.50 on a standard offset wheel. Cut wheel wells
SuperFlex
Tire / Wheel Recommendations 30" x 10" on a standard offset wheel. Uncut wheel wells
Tire / Wheel Recommendations 35" x 10.50" on a standard offset wheel. Cut wheel wells.

He did not expand on the rated tire sizes as to why a 5.5" lift would allow different tire sizes, my guess is the softer suspension allows more body roll which causes tire/fender interference.
When I had him on the phone I asked about the 'nominal increase in ride height that necessitates driveline modifications'. He stated that people are *usually* OK up to 3.5" of lift, but that some have been able to run the 5.5" with the OE drivelines.

I did shop a lot of different kits, but most of the other kits that include all my desired parts were more money and at this point I don't know why I'd want to pay more.
Like this one for example..
Suspension System 3 w/WH Shocks 2.5in Lift -- WildHorses4x4.com $737.76

And then I'd still have to buy brake hoses and emergency brake cables, for example, rockauto has
Hydraulic brake hoses
Raybestos for $25/each (front x 2, or rear) $75 -- stock length. (yes I know they have cheaper ones around $7/each, but I stuck with a name brand for the example)
Emergency brake cables, weird neither rockauto nor O'Reilly's Auto lists rear emergency brake cables for a '75 but both have them for '74... odd
Raybestos emergency brake cables are.
$21.79 (front)
$19.92 (left rear)
$21.79 (right rear)
OR, you can buy this kit
Extended Brake Hose & E-Brake Cable Kit 1967-77 -- Bronco Graveyard $119.00

If you are interested in seeing the excel spreadsheet that has 41 different lift kits and options listed in one place, hit me up with a PM.

I want the initial work to be quick easy and pain free, with all new suspension mounting hardware, all new hoses and cables, all I'd really need is new calipers/wheel cylinders, and master cylinder and the entire braking system would be new.
I'd still have to examine and possibly rebuild the front/rear axles but that is just bearings, balljoints, and tie rods.. no biggie.

I realize there are a lot of other options for suspension, but I think when considering them, they alone would cost a guy at least a year in rebuild time.
So for future changes, and to allow me to fiddle with things while the Bronco is driven,

I am inclined to go buy the frame/suspension/drivetrain out in West Fargo and build a better chassis with
F-250 shock brackets (F-250 Front Shock Towers -- Classic Broncos)
From what I've read, single shocks are sufficient for 99% of Bronco operations and dual shocks have been reported as too stiff.
I would need to do research on the actual spring rates that I need, vehicle weight and total articulation available, and make a better selection of coil springs
look into extended radius arms (build vs buy),
Research more the WAH (Wristed Axle Housing -- ClassicBroncos.com)
Staggered (v-shaped) shock arrangements for the rear

From what I've read, reversing the shackle allows the springs to ride more softly, so I'd want to look into that, but in conjunction with some sort of traction device to control axle wrap.
BC Broncos offers a spring plate with a hinge in it for additional articulation and also a shock crossmember for the rear.
REAR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS -- BCBroncos.com
If I went with the BCBroncos rear axle "Spring Rockers" I would most likely contact them to see if they could do a 1" offset on the bottom plate, it really shouldn't be that much of an engineering change.
If not, there are a couple ways to move the axle back, the tried and tru, redrilling of the spring perch and top plate with new holes 1" off from center.
or something like this.
Offset 1" Zero Rate Add a Leaves™ -- OffRoadDesign.com $40/pr (that isn't too bad)

If I were to order a kit today, it would be the 3.5 Long travel kit and the 1" bushing/Body lift kit, then measure for allowable tire size and go from there.
Funny thing is that my wife doesn't think I have OCD.
She just doesn't know I'm a closet OCD'er...

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bubba22349
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #32 by bubba22349 » Wed Dec 09, 2015 3:12 pm

:hmmm: So which Bronco did you get? :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #33 by CoupeBoy » Wed Dec 09, 2015 3:38 pm

None yet.

The guy with the 3 still has all 3, but hasn't given me any actual asking price.
He said he was offered $2500 for the black one with plow. Which in my book was acceptable and he should have taken it considering the butcher job on the quarter panels, other body damage, lack of title, and he cannot prove that the engine/transmission works because it doesn't run.

I called him again on my lunch break, he is in Nevada at the casino again and won't be home until Saturday. He said he had an offer from a guy in Iowa for the black one and the blue one, but he never showed up, so that deal is dead. I hate dealing with people who don't put a value on their wares.

I sold a '98 Tahoe that scored me enough $$ to buy the '75. The problem is that I sold it to a friend who has his own money problems and he asked me not to cash the check yet. I talked to the bank about a short term loan ($4000, figure $2300 for the Bronco, $1000 for the lift kit, and $700 for tires) and they said no problem, the '75 Bronco has a loan value of $15,500 (which I find a little incredible) so I may take out a short one to get the ball rolling and then just pay it off once my friends situation clears up. I'm trying to decide if I should just go get it tomorrow, the biggest hurdle is how to squeeze another 5hrs out of the day for drive time.

I will of course haggle and try to get him down in price "due to excessive rust and body damage"

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #34 by edgewood bronco » Thu Dec 10, 2015 12:29 am

You shoulda seen the quality of those photos. Anybody would've stolen them :rolflmao:
They were backed up, but the external drive was sitting right next to the laptop. Funny thing is they didn't take the carousels full of slides that were next to those...

40 k is the original miles on the drive train. It had a plow and was a camp maintenance vehicle, so apparently was used sparingly in the 30-plus years before my dad and I dragged it out of the woods. Fortunately it wasn't badly beaten up as a plow vehicle. Chassis is straight and tight. There's a thread on the Early Bronco web forum on installing a NV3550 that says a 1 inch body lift seems natural on these vehicles. You've probably seen it. I remember it's got a red paint job. Haven't been over there in a while...

Not sure about OCD, but you're sure covering all of your bases, several times over!
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66 Bronco 200; autolite 2100 2 bbl conversion: Lovin' it!

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #35 by CoupeBoy » Thu Dec 10, 2015 11:59 am

edgewood bronco wrote:Funny thing is they didn't take the carousels full of slides that were next to those...
heathens! I guess you learned your lesson, digital photography is the path to ruin!! 8mm forever!!!
edgewood bronco wrote:40 k is the original miles on the drive train. It had a plow and was a camp maintenance vehicle, so apparently was used sparingly in the 30-plus years before my dad and I dragged it out of the woods. Fortunately it wasn't badly beaten up as a plow vehicle. Chassis is straight and tight.
That sounds like a highly modified 'barn' find, but it is more like a 'behind the barn find'.
edgewood bronco wrote:There's a thread on the Early Bronco web forum on installing a NV3550 that says a 1 inch body lift seems natural on these vehicles. You've probably seen it. I remember it's got a red paint job. Haven't been over there in a while...
I had not found it, but I had also not been looking for it, I have an M5OD, I don't have a NV3550, so I had been looking at/for swap information for those transmissions. However, I believe this is the article of which you are referring.
NV 3550 Install -- ClassicBroncos.com
edgewood bronco wrote:Not sure about OCD, but you're sure covering all of your bases, several times over!
I'm a tightwad, IF I'm going to spend money, I want to know what I'm getting, what I'm not getting, and what else may have been available if I had looked around a bit.

Sometimes though, things like this, you just have to punt.
Gather info and make the best educated guess that you can.

Just like when it comes time for tires, I'll likely torment myself looking at other tires online, price shopping and comparing tread, large lugs vs street tread, traction, temp, wear vs how sissified they might look..
And in the end, I'll buy a set locally in Fargo from one of the dealers with all the standard features, lifetime balancing and rotations, road hazard and free flat repairs.

Out of curiosity, does anybody know of a 33" tall narrow tire?
Something like this in either 32 or 33" tall version, perhaps with smaller lugs, something more suitable for highway speeds
34x9.50-15LT, TSL Bias -- 4WheelParts.com
Image

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #36 by edgewood bronco » Thu Dec 10, 2015 10:04 pm

Yeah, if only I'd stayed with film cameras. I'd still have all my photos (though only about one tenth of the number of photos)
That is indeed the article I remembered. Hopefully that's somewhat helpful.
Behind the barn is right.... And I'm not exaggerating, I checked. 2 fingers on the wheel just for good measure on the interstate at 70 mph this morning (i try to keep it at 65 or below though, it's screaming at 70). If these things are properly aligned and straight, they track amazingly well. I was going to say, "for such a short wheelbase." But I don't care what wheelbase, its' one of the best tracking vehicles I've driven, including a long-bed extended cab 74 F-350.
You're right about the research, and now is the time to do it, lest you be disappointed later.

I don't have any suggestions for tires. I'm still running some takeoff street tires that would probably fall into your sissified category :lol:
Keep us posted.
Andy
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Big64my79Effie
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #37 by Big64my79Effie » Tue Jan 19, 2016 2:55 pm

Are you still looking? Found this today.

http://lexington.craigslist.org/ptd/5409933097.html

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #38 by CoupeBoy » Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:21 am

I'm still shopping, window shopping....

The ones up north of me in Thief River Falls MN, he finally put prices on them and they were rather high for non-running, no-title, missing parts, broncos.
Almost all local ads have dried up and vanished

I'm off the hunt for a while, I really need to focus on maintenance on the '68 Mustang for the upcoming season, and the necessary repairs on the '75 F250 to get it road worthy.

Maybe when my low temps start staying above freezing I'll be more motivated to get back on the hunt.

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #39 by CoupeBoy » Wed Feb 03, 2016 4:04 pm

Do you think I can put some Bronco emblems on it and get it past my wife?

And yes, I found it by randomly searching for Broncos.

1961 Ford Falcon 4X4 (Fyffe Alabama)$2000
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Needs a motor, but isn't it difficult to fit a 300 into an early Falcon? :rolflmao:

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #40 by ludwig » Wed Feb 03, 2016 5:04 pm

Shouldn't be a problem with out a floor pan or dash. I say go for it.
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #41 by turbo2256b » Wed Feb 03, 2016 7:29 pm

i HAVE AN EX STADIUM RACE TRUCK. Old bronco frame , f150 front and rear axles, ladder bars, 351C 4V 4 WD, c6, 4.11 gears, 33" tires, B&M ratchet shifter

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #42 by turbo2256b » Wed Feb 03, 2016 7:31 pm

Dont know if they are still made have some 33 x 9.50 BFG ALL TERRAINS ON THE FRONT OF MY 78 150

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #43 by chad » Thu Feb 11, 2016 2:10 pm

turbo2256b wrote:Dont know if they are still made have some 33 x 9.50 BFG ALL TERRAINS ON THE FRONT OF MY 78 150


no, they R not & mine R on the way out.

Still, Coup boy, the BFG TA (is it KO appended on the end?) is the tire U need. That 1 pictured is only for 85 - 90% off rd. Otherwise noisy, bumpy & asphalt wears them down too fast - gettin em only 4 their looks.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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CoupeBoy
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #44 by CoupeBoy » Tue Feb 16, 2016 2:43 pm

Its been a long dry spell for Bronco's in my area, but today's search turned up 3 full rigs and some parts..
I put these in the order that I like them. (its a darn close tie for 1 and 2)

68 BRONCO ,73 FRAME AND DRIVELINE - $3250 (south haven) wrote:68 BRONCO BODY NO TITLE ,73 FRAME AND DIVELINE WITH TITLE,351m MOTOR ,3SPD TRANS ON FLOOR ,4" LIFT,DUAL EXHAUST, $3250 O.B.O. CALL OR TEXT FOR MORE INFO,ALSO MANY PARTS FOR SALE
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collector 1968 ford bronco 6cyl manual (rough) - $1500 (brainerd) wrote:1968 ford bronco
6 cyl manual 4/4
this truck has been sitting for some time
will need complete restore or good for parts
as you see in pics its pretty much all there
and has lots of good parts
even hard to find aftermarket AC
removable top, bumpers etc etc
will of course need to be trailered
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77 ford bronco - $2500 (east bethel) wrote:77 ford bronco lifted 35 inch swamppers ,with more than half tread left,351 windsor, headers,edelbrook intake,hei ignition ,pb ,ps ,locker and hardened axles in the front ,full spool and hardened axles in the rear ,gear ratio is 3.50 ,automatic c-4 trans and dana 20 transfer case ,this is a running and driving truck that would be best if offroading, i do have a 302 with msd ignition and other parts that could go with it call jason
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And lastly, a body only.
66-77 Bronco Body - $275 (Brooten) wrote:Have a 66-77 Ford Bronco Body forsale.

I also have the factory ford 9 inch, Dana 30 & 44 front axles and motor/trans I would sell if there's any interest for them.
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In this batch, I'm seeing a bit of a pattern with the door frames, the red one has a huge goober weld and the green one has a fancy bracket, but the tops of both doors are still bowed out.

Is this a fairly common problem with these old Bronc's?
Is there an easy and presentable way to fix this?

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chad
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local Bronco connections (R better 4 somethings) CB.com for

Post #45 by chad » Tue Feb 16, 2016 8:28 pm

"...the tops of both doors are still bowed out…."
the pre '69 (I believe '68 as last yr) had window frames that were removable (C nuts @ the hinge end of door). May B that's thje prob? May B the weight of the top pushin down?
The 1st 3 yrs also have a more desriable "grill" (the whole frnt - look @ seam) w/more flush turn sigs.
That piece is in the $400 range 4 either the flush or last 10 yrs model.

Floor boards
Kick pannels
over the gas tank (rear tank)
rockers
below battery
door & tail gait bottoms R some of the usual places. Patch panels (sm, just 4 the bad area) R avail for all that in part or in the whole panel. Fenders & 1/4s also avail (some go back to the 'uncut' - see the < U > in my sig., for the rear skirt 2 B still intact).

Check the classic broncos dot com site - it's pretty good (tech section is extensive) but has a different pathos than here (except for our Aussie forums). I had my ears pinned back enuff times to not care to visit as much as I do here, so be careful. Also Bronco Driver is a nice mag for someone in your place to read a few issues. I forget where U R but since the '90s there have risen many local boards/listserv for the bronk - I'd go there 4 more boots on the ground answers. Tell me ur locale I\'ll probably recognize/give U the locale 1. (Ford-truck has geographic chapters, drill down there 4 locals). MPG (our member) just got a bronk or 2 - U may wanna ask his experiences. Doesn't mind PM from me anyway…

Keep talkin ~

Edit
"...popular Automatic transmission upgrades? "
I like the C4, they were OE least parasitic of power and have plenty of very available rebuild and modify kits. To answ ur worry re: getting the bronk cuz there wuz some obscure prt - these autos were the only C4 to B a pan fill (I believe) so that's one of the very few differences and NOT a problem. One reason I'm upgrading to the 250 (a truck engine to me anyway) is the "SBF" bell. Lotta autos for that, eh? (car or truck).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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mods'n motors - Bronco

Post #46 by chad » Tue Feb 16, 2016 8:56 pm

CoupeBoy wrote:Do you think I can put some Bronco emblems on it and get it past my wife?
And yes, I found it by randomly searching for Broncos.
1961 Ford Falcon 4X4 (Fyffe Alabama)
Needs a motor, but isn't it difficult to fit a 300 into an early Falcon? :rolflmao:


best 1 of those I ever saw was the '60 - '63 Ranchero!
(on a bronk frame) It even had the rare "factory" toper
so looked even a lill more Brocco-like.

The 300 would B the ideal but for the weight (now some put the 4BT in - rediculous in my mind). Instead of the easy (move the radiator forward) some move the fire wall back and the nose is not so over weight. I would lower it in the frame as well due to, again weight. But 4 me the 250 duz it! Low rev tq keeps the wheels from spinnin on the trail.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #47 by 66WarPony » Sat May 07, 2016 4:53 pm

CoupeBoy wrote:
1966Mustang wrote:3rd diff front diff, center diff, rear diff... 3 lockers. :p
That is the same setup the full sized Jeep Cherokee's had back int he late 70's early 80's in their Quadratrac system. Awesome in snow, great for pulling your friends out of tough situations, terrible gas mileage with a 360/auto :roll:

bmbm40, obviously I need to do more reading, but I know I've seen references to people swapping in other NP transfer case models (205 or 203). If I have no sentimental attachment to the D20, is there any reason to adapt/keep it? My first assumption is that people keep them so they don't have to redo drivelines.

In regards to motors, I gave up thinking I needed the biggest loudest motors back in my teen years, you can't sneak out of the yard with dual straight pipe exhaust (or short glass packs as many of my friends had) and in my experience larger HP motor are better at breaking parts compared to their smaller brethren. I guarantee that if a person were to compare the hp/tq spec of my wife's current 289 (C-code upgraded with edelbrock intake/carb/cam/lifters) that the 250 with a 2bbl, the 250 would beat it in regards to torque at almost all RPMs.

Whats the old saying..
"you race HP, you drive torque"

-ron


I haven't read the entire thread yet, but fwiw, I'm considering the following:

-203/205 Combo (About 4:1 reduction, but a ton of weight and added length)
-LoMax 205 (3:1 reduction, less weight and added length, but greater cost)
Present: '89 Bronco XLT, 302 (no I don't like it, I'm just stuck with it at the moment), Bassani Shorty's, 4" Lift, 33" Grabbers

Upcoming: Hoping to get back in the EB game if the opportunity presents itself

"If you want to know about something, read a book." - Dad

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throwin out da babe w/the bath H2O

Post #48 by chad » Sat May 07, 2016 10:39 pm

"…no sentimental attachment to the D20, is there any reason to adapt/keep it? …"
Yes 2 or 3.
One is…not cheep… there is a low ratio gear kit to install, $800. Ends up like the fewer speed Atlas (NOT the 4 speed).
But less than 1/2 the price of that entire x-case swap, still low weight 2, no other changes,
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #49 by CoupeBoy » Mon Aug 29, 2016 2:30 pm

I'm taking a break from Bronco shopping.. of course I'm lying.
Who could resist finding this locally?
Not me, if it were local, I'd have hauled it home already.
First Gen bronco - $100 (Topeka)
Image

But I did find a distraction.. and sadly I doubt it will be getting an i6 of any kind.

Fresh from a hay field..

1978 Scout II Rallye
345/Auto
IMG_7696.JPG


Its got some rust in the wheel wells, rocker panels, and bottom edges of the doors, but nothing else that I've seen.
I'm trying to decide between fixing the rust, or cutting it out for fender flares. I wouldn't mind cutting the rear quarters, but I don't know if I've got the stomach for cutting the front fenders.

The transmission was pulled because it wasn't shifting correctly.
When in drive it wouldn't upshift correctly, but if run manually it would shift 1, 2, D

It was pulled a long, long, long time ago and last time I saw this scout; the transmission was in the back hatch area of the scout.
Somewhere along the lines, the back window got broke and the transmission vanished!

Plan is to clean it thoroughly, pull the plugs and pour in some Marvel Mystery oil, while searching for a transmission.

These guys are local and I'm hoping they have a Torqueflite 727, they specialize in Farmall/International tractors and trucks.
Mitchell's Tractors and Machinery

I'm also looking into overdrive options for the 345.

I'll get it mobile, I'll research :
Roll cage, family friendly and fits under the factory hard top, this is a must have item.
spring over axle (SOA)
shackle reversal for the front axle
GM Dana 44 front disk brake upgrade
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Re: Shopping For a Bronco

Post #50 by chad » Mon Aug 29, 2016 9:28 pm

lill longer than a bronk - "pluses & minuses"…
I like the "800", it's father, almost bought 1 in '83 when I got the bronk.
Reason:
IH was going outta business & the fed. law then wuz "only need to make the replacement prts for 7 yrs after bankrupcy"
so I got the ford.

Enjoy it.
I bet you'll make it great, enjoy it (want the Izuzzu diesel 6 they had in some?)
that's an oem engine
Last edited by chad on Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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