Click Here -> Please Consider Making a PayPal Contribution to the FordSix Forum!
2019 Contributors:
NJwpod, 1strodeo, mightynorseman, maxtrux, 6d7coupe, broncr, Phase3, 68Flareside240, bmbm40,
mustang6, WorldChampGramp, justintendo, BigBlue94, ags290, motorsickle1130, Rooster, ousooner919, ethanperry
rzcrisis, DoctorC, jamyers, Motorboy, fastpat, Silverback280, chad


<<< New Site Update >>>

2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Moderator: Mod Squad

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #1 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 1:57 pm

One of the first things I realized about my '75 F250 Crew Cab after buying it was that I had badly broken driver side leaf spring.
1975 CCSB -- War Hog -- OFCC.com

Broken Leaves and redneck engineered shock mounts :roll:
Image
I did some digging around on the internet and found a few articles, mostly about swapping in 64" GM rear leaves.
recommended superduty springs for f250 swap -- Ford-Trucks.com
axle and leaf spring options 75 f250 4x4 -- Ford-Trucks.com
F 250 6 inch lift pictures -- Ford-Trucks.com

Fronts 1999-2004 will work.
Eventually I will get to this..
Superduty spring swap thread -- fordification.com

So armed with information that I'm not crazy, I started researching leaf springs.
I made a chart...
Image

I also knew I wanted to do a shackle flip, partially for the "free" lift and partially to improve ride quality.

So I ordered up a set of these brackets
Gatsby CSE 4wd Rear Shackle Flip or Reversed leaf Spring Brackets Ford 1973 - 1996
Image

Here is the set of 2009 F250 leaves laying on top of the stock leaf springs on my truck.
Image
I've come to realize that while my truck is a '75, the frame is newer. At least a late 1977. I base this off the rear leaf springs, which in '75 should have been 2.5" and mine are 3". Front leaf springs are a 2 pack not the 5 pack listed in the chart I provided above.

I have them roughly centered, the back of the '77 springs are 31.5" long and the back half of the '09 springs are 33.25"
Image

The front is a totally different story though, the '77 leaves are 24" from center pin to front eyelet bolt hole, the 2009 leaves are 33.25"
Image

That sets up the basics.
The end goal is minimal lift, softer ride by using longer springs, and I want to ditch the lift blocks.
I will also be planning a traction bar and covering some other options for lift along the way.

Plan
I will move the front spring perch forward 9" and mount it as low on the frame as possible.
In the rear I will flip the shackle and start with stock shackles, if necessary, I will swap out to longer ones to get desired lift.

I know some sites like to measure from the ground to the bottom of the fender lip, but that seems to random, tire size, tire pressure, uneven terrain, there are a lot of variables that make up that number.

I decided to use 1 measurement.
From top of axle to bottom of frame.
Starting point is 11"
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #2 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:01 pm

I started at the passenger side rear frame shackle bracket removing the rivets.

I tried drilling, I went through 3 different drill bit sizes, starting small and working my way up.
By the time I got to a 1/4" I ran into a lot of resistance and my drill bit dulled. That sucked, I stopped.
Then I got out my grinder with a cutoff wheel and made an X. That sucked, I stopped.
Image
Attempt 3, grinder with grinding wheel.. what a concept.

Oh, that's nice.
Image

For some reason I couldn't find any of my punches, I've got a half dozen of them, so I tried a small chisel and a hammer, and I tried an air hammer with a chisel bit. Neither worked, that sucked, I stopped.
Image

Moving on to the next phase, I removed the shackle bolt and separated the shackle from the bracket.

That gave me easier access to the lower rear rivet and the top front rivet.
Image

By the time I got to that third rivet, I'm starting to feel like a grinding surgeon..
Image

But I couldn't get to the bottom front rivet, the spring was in the way. So I used a couple long prybars to move it forward and around the shackle bracket.

Where do you guys put your internet disclaimers?
I'm putting mine here..
"I am not a professional, in fact I do some very stupid things at times. Just because I did it, that does not mean you can or should follow my examples. If you replicate any of my work, do so at your own risk."
Image

Last rivet, ground off.
Image

Now, to get the bracket separated from the rivets and frame, I used a large chisel and a 3lb hammer.
I don't like to hit my own hands, so I held the chisel with a pair of vice grips.
Image

And I wear gloves..
The shackle bracket off the frame.
Image

To separate the rivets from the frame, I hit them really hard with the 3lb hammer until they were flush, and then I used one of the bolts that used to hold the bed down, held it with a pair of vice grips, and hit it with a hammer.. 3 our of 4 popped right out. But that last one, bottom front, I had to grind it off flush, and then I hit it with a hammer.
Image

I always planned on removing the huge bumpers and replacing them with either stock units or make my own. I cannot begin to describe how irritated I am about having welded on bumpers. If I could find the guy who did this, I'd slap him, hard. Or a neck punch.
Image

For kicks, I flipped the stock frame/shackle bracket, drilled out 2 of 4 holes to 1/2" and bolted it in place, then reconnected the stock shackle using the original shackle bolt. These are all the stock parts, just with the shackle bracket flipped, and In this picture only the passenger side bracket is done, I haven't started on the driver side yet.
Image

Blah, blah, blah, skipping more rivet grinding, I flipped the bracket on the Driver side and reconnected the shackle.
Image

After dropping the truck back down onto the original leaf springs, I measured the distance from the top of the axle to the bottom of the frame.
The new measurement is 14"
Image

Which makes perfect sense.
In the original configuration the leaf spring shackle bolt was at the top of the frame, with the bracket flipped it is now at the bottom of the frame.
The frame is 6" tall at the point that the shackle bracket is attached.
Math says that any lift at only 1 end of a leaf spring, results in half of that measurement converted directly into lift at the axle/center.

When I put on the Gatsby reversal brackets, I *should* get another 3" of lift.
And just for the sake of completeness, I measured the stock/original/factory lift block and it is... (suspense) 3"
Image

So my junior engineering degree says that if a person wanted to get rid of their stock lift blocks, they could use stock parts, do a shackle reversal and take out the blocks, the ride height should stay the same.

A cheap 3" lift would be to keep the stock lift blocks and flip the stock shackle bracket.

To flip the brackets only costs your time and about $6 in grade 8 bolts. I used 1/2"x1.25"long and I bought flat washers and crimp lock nuts.

I'll update the measurement numbers once I install the flip brackets.

When I was lifting the frame to remove the brackets, the limiting factor was the rear shocks.
Image

I am eyeballing that space on the passenger (right) side of the axle/driveline for the future location of my traction bar.
My idea is to make a single traction bar that has brackets welded to the axle and uses a shackle at the front.
The front of the bar will be about where the pillow block is for the driveline carrier bearing.
Or that's the plan for now anyhow.

If you spotted that magnetic angle finder on the driveline, this is what it has been doing..

Before I changed anything, I threw it on the driveshaft to see what the angle was.
Image
After stock shackle bracket flip, same.
Image

Hopefully this weekend I'll get the front spring hanger bracket moved forward and the "new" leaves installed.
To be honest at this point, I am concerned that I will be getting more lift than I need, which means I will have to get bigger tires :lol:

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #3 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:03 pm

Valentines day weekend, not much work done.
I spec'd some u-bolts and picked them up from a local welding shop.
5/8" bolt 3.5" between them, 8" tall.
Image
FYI, they shouldn't be 3.5" between them.

I installed the custom flip shackle brackets, I had to unbolt the shocks to get the frame separated far enough from the axle to get the flip installed.
Image
Shackle angle isn't great, it would be nice to have it lean back a bit.
If you were going to use these with stock springs, you'd want to move the bracket forward at least an inch, maybe 2 in an effort to get 45° angle.
Image

FWIW, measurement from top of axle to bottom of frame under the original bump stop bracket is 16.5"
Not quite the 17" that I might expect, but close enough.

magnetic angle on the driveline.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say this measurement is useless, because it doesn't actually tell me anything about the pinion angle, only the difference in driveline angle as the axle moves farther away from the frame.
Image

hopefully in the next few days, I'll find time to grind off the front hangar bracket rivets and get those perches moved.
And get those bumper brackets ground off, what a time consuming pain in the butt that job is, the previous owner welded them on real good.

The engine hoist works great for this project, the rear half of the frame has almost no weight to it compared to a motor, and it has a lot more lift than the average floor jack.

As a side project, I made a tall jack stand that can be used as a secondary safety.
Image
My little cheap Harbor Freight 90am flux core MIG welder seems to do pretty good.
It is me that is not great at welding...
Image

I'm thinking about adding a roller to the top and welding on a plate to mount a hand winch, then making a modification to the lock bracket so it has a sliding collar that I can winch up and down, then lock with a bolt or pin.

Something like this.
MoJack Pro Lawn Mower Lift — 750-Lb. Capacity -- northerntool.com
Image

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #4 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:06 pm

In case you guys were wondering, I'm not just randomly guessing where to put the mounts.
I used Math, I broke out the Pythagorean Theorem.
Image
Good old math.. So if I did it correctly, it looks like I need to move it forward 9.5" not 9.25" as originally predicted.
I did the math on the second one twice because my springs are supposed to be 2009 but the SD information says those are supposed to be 3/1 and the leaves I have are 4/1. So I did it twice, once with a 6" arch and the second time with a 7". The change was minimal, 32.7 vs 32.5"

This morning I completely removed the passenger side leaf spring and hangers.

I removed the rear shackle bracket and shackle
Image
I attempted to remove the nuts from the original u-bolts.
No dice with an electric impact or a 2ft extension on the end of a 1/2" ratchet.
I like my ratchet, so I didn't try to terribly hard with the ratchet.
So I cut them off with the grinder. Let me tell you that was not a fun experience.
I cut through the first one and there was a loud POP as the grinder cut through the last half of the bolt.
I wasn't sure if the tension was because I still had the driver side shackle side still in place or what other force it was.
So I removed the driver side shackle bracket and shackle, then blocked the whole thing up using my custom stand.

After cutting the other U-bolt in half, and pulling out the front leaf spring eyelet bolt, I took the leaf out and laid it next to the new one.
Image
And this is when I saw why there was such weird pressure on the bolts.

The centering bolt/pin has completely failed.
Image

No Spring!
Image

Taking a look at the original lift block.
This thing is garbage, torched on both sides, it had been installed backward.
Image
Image

With this view you can see that the original block has some taper built into it.
Thicker on the left than it is on the right.
Image

I got to grinding on the rivets on the front spring hanger bracket.
Image

I finished grinding off the rivet heads and then hit the bracket with a hammer a few times and it fell off.
Image

The rivet heads are far bigger on the outside then they are on the inside, still the same 1/2" as the rear hanger.
Image

When the bracket get reattached it will go about here.
Image

But I have a real problem, this is where the frame starts to narrow and the bracket can't be attached at an angle.
Image

I don't have any good pictures to show the narrowing, nor have I measured it yet.
It is visible in these two, but its hard to make out.
Image
Image

I am thinking that I need to find some thick walled tubing, or solid steel then drill a 1/2' hole through the center and make some spacers to get the distance to stay the same 37" as it is at the location of the original frame location for the original brackets.

FWIW, if a guy went with 1999-2007 real leaf springs, they are only 25" long ahead of the center pin compared to the original 24" and he could probably fudge a direct installation of those springs into the stock location. But the guys that own those trucks are performing the 'upgrade' to 2008+ leaf springs for the ride quality advantage, so to me, it wasn't worth it.

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #5 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:08 pm

To make certain that I modified both left and right front spring perches the same amount, I decided to make a template.
I started with a 1.5" piece of strap steel, 2ft long.
I clamped it to the bottom of my welding table to mark a centerline.
Image
Then I laid the front spring perch bracket on the metal and center punched the holes for the bracket's top holes, and using the same hole location

From the left, the main hole, then the second hole is the second is the second hole for the bottom bolts, the third is the second bold for the top bolt hole set, and the 4th hole is 9.5" center to center from the far left hole.
Image
I drilled out the first 3 holes to 1/2" to match the frame holes.
Image
This is how it is bolted to the frame
Image
Image
I clamped this on both top and bottom, but I neglected to grab a pic of it clamped on the top.
Image

And braindead simple, I drilled through the 1/8" guide hole.
Image

This nets me the two rear bolt holes for both left and right AND they will be symmetric left/right.

New holes drilled
Image
And passenger side bracket mock/bolted into place. You can see that the exhaust had to get pushed down and it is still resting on the bottom bracket, and if you look real close you can see that the bracket needs to be straightened.
Image
Image

I had the metal shop (WestSide Steel, West Fargo ND) cut these spacers based on a previous measurement that I did... with a bent piece of steel.
3/4", 1/2", 1/4"
Image
Later, you will find out that these are worthless, not even close.

I bolted up the shackle flip brackets and used the original leaf spring bolts to mock everything into place, again you can see the leading bracket has a huge gap for the front bolts.
Image
Its much bigger than I thought.
Image

I am going to need to have some new spacers cut, 1.25" for the lower bolts and 1.5" for the top.

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #6 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:10 pm

OK, this is how the new springs will sit when everything is said and done, these are bolted in at both ends and the center pin is through the pad on the axle.

Nice and Flat
Image
Shackle angle isn't quite as much as I was hoping for, but its still decent.
Image
From the front
Image
And the important part.. what has this whole spring swap netted me as far as a gain or a loss.
Original figure was 11"
New number with 2009 springs and shackle flip bracket, NO LIFT BLOCK... 14.5"
Image
I'm pretty happy with that, 3' gain over stock.

But I had time to kill and wanted to know for future use..

2009 springs, no lift blocks, stock shackle bracket in their flipped mode (shackle down)
Image
A shackle angle that is concerning.
Image
Top of axle to bottom of frame measurement... 12.0"
Image

And lastly
2009 leaf springs, no lift blocks, shackle if its original configuration (up)
Image
Shackle angle is pretty good for an "up shackle" position
Image
Distance from the top of the axle to the bottom of the frame.. 10.25"
Image


Summary
2009 stock leaves (66" long)
1977 stock shackle
shackle bracket (stock = S, flipped = F)
Shackle (up = u, down =d)

Distance from Axle to Frame
SU = 10.25"
SD = 12.00
FD = 14.50"

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #7 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:13 pm

Yesterday my 2005 F250 6.0 PSD decided to kill its water pump, so I had to quickly assemble what I had so I could move it out of the shop.

I drilled out the front spring mount with a 51/64th drill bit so I could use the stock 2009 leaf spring bolts.
Image

I had new spacers cut, 1.25" and 1.5", I tack welded them onto the leaf spring mount.
Image
To me, it looked great.
Image
Stock 1975 bolt that holds the shackle to the bracket.
2009 bolt that holds the shackle to the 2009 leaf spring.
The U-bolts I had made locally, and I totally screwed those up. They are too wide, they are too short, about the only thing I got right was the bolt diameter. I had them made with 3.5" between the uprights and there should only be 3.25" To get them in place I used a vice grip clamp.
Image
And finally it is together enough to get it out of the shop under its own power.
Image
*almost*

The last piece of the puzzle, I needed a temporary gas can, so with 5 feet of fuel rated hose and a 5 gallon gas can, I rigged one up.
Image
Image

By removing the bed, this is all the crap that DIDN"T fall on my head or in my eyes.
Image
All swept up.
Image

With the 2009 springs installed in the rear, I backed it out. Its got a decent rake now from rear to front.
Image
Image

And I almost drove it to work today, I'd have dropped the box back on and held it in place with a few bolts, however when I hit the brakes.
Image

I feared that I had damaged the hose when I was lifting up the frame for the leaf spring test fitting and fabricating.
I'd like to replace the hose with a longer one, along with the emergency brake cables.

And with that, I'm calling it done-ski on the leaf spring install.

Tools used
grinder
13/16" wrenches and sockets
7/8" socket
1" socket

Tools Made
1.5" x 2ft piece of strap steel with holes drilled to make a template
Important measurement. 1/2" hole then 9.5" center to center a 1/8" hole.
The holes in the middle were drilled using the leaf spring bracket.
Spacers (2) 1.25" (2) 1.5"

costs
leaf springs $75/each
leaf spring bushing bolts (included with springs)
new 1/2" grade 8 bolts/washers/lock nuts approximately $15
new U-bolts $65 (local welding shop, I'm thinking about ordering a correct set from amazon for $46 with free shipping)
Shackle flip brackets (Optional) $65 including shipping.
$295

I'm not ready to put the box back on yet though, I got my 5thwheel hitch plate yesterday and I'll need to make some brackets.
I also need to figure out how I'm going to mount the shocks, see if I can tie the 5th wheel mount and shock mount together.

If anybody knows of a direct fit extended rear brake line, I'm all ears.
And I'll have to figure out some bump stops.

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #8 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:14 pm

Dec 29, 2015
Image
Feb 23,2016
Image

I'm not sure if it is real or optical illusion, but it looks like there is a lot more frame above the tire now.

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #9 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:16 pm

New U-bolts are were ordered. (5/8" thread, grade 8, 3.25" between the uprights, from the bottom of the U to the top of the threads 10")
To be perfectly clear, the local machine shop made exactly what I asked them for. I asked them to be too wide (3.5") and too short (8")
The only reason I'm not going back to them is that they quoted me one price and charged 50% more claiming they looked it up wrong.
Their bolt stock is grade 5 up to 7/16" and then it changes to grade 8 for anything 5/8" and larger.
Since everything is custom made, they do not accept returns/exchanges and they say they cannot re-bend the bolts I bought from them.

I could go back to them and again pay $65-70, but since I'm not in a rush, I decided to save a few dollars and order them online through eBay for $48 (free shipping and a good return policy)
4-Pack of U-bolts, 5/8 Inch X 3.25 Inch Axle (Dana 60) $48.43

There also aren't any nuts on the front leaf spring bolts, the stock 2009 ones came with their own locking bracket/tab and it is just a little bit too big to fit inside the stock leaf spring bracket, I can either cut it off completely or I can trim back the edges with a grinder just a bit and it will fit and I can keep the stock auto catch feature of the leaf spring bolt.

And I am assuming that once I get the front springs (1999-2004) swapped I am might end up doing some additional 'leveling work', which ever stock spring is the tallest, (front vs rear) I will modify the other end to match in regards to height.
I'm hoping the front spring swap and associated u-bolt flip goes a little smoother.

Shackles, zero rates, or mini-spring packs like this.
Ford 99-04 F250 F350 SuperDuty Excursion 4WD | 2.8" Lift Front Leveling Kit $59.90

The expected need for leveling is also why I haven't replaced the stock (1975) shackles yet, I might need to buy some 2-4" lift/level shackles.

This was the first time I ever swapped in 'custom' springs and I know I cost myself a few extra dollars by getting things wrong the first time.

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #10 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:17 pm

The new U-bolts arrived.
Image

When I was doing the spring upgrade, I was jacking up the frame with the engine hoist, I neglected to pay attention to the rubber hydraulic hose and I overstressed it to the point of failure. I went to the local O'Reily's and got a stock replacement for a '77F250, but it is 6" too short.
Image

The length is too short to directly replace the original hose, and that doesn't take into account the additional lift that the 'new' springs gave me.

Any recommendation on where I can get extended brake lines?
Something like this, but specfically for a F250 4x4?
Stainless Steel Brake Line Rear -- 4wheelparts.com $55.99
Image

I'm eventually going to need extended emergency brake cables too, so any heads up on that would be appreciated.

While I'm on the topic of rubber brake hoses, should this thing be off to one side, or should it be moved to the middle and make new steel lines from the center to the wheel cylinders?
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #11 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:18 pm

I found an above average parts guy this weekend and had him help me find a rear brake hose by using the type of end fittings 3/8" x24.
One stock hose for a '76 F250 is a
Dorman 36788 24.75" long, would be $38 from O'Reily or
$14 from Dorman H36788 Hydraulic Brake Hose -- Amazon

This hose would have been a direct replacement for my original hose.

While he had the computer open, he looked a couple other options,
BrakeBest BH106330 25 15/16" long. (I didn't get the price)
Image

The one I went with is a BrakeBest BH83931, also DORMAN H83931
Which is 26" long.
Image
The original application is a 1993 Dodge D150
Rock Auto has it listed
DORMAN H83931 -- RockAuto.com

Here is the new one side by side with my old one.
Image

I really should have measured it, but it looks to be 3.5" longer than the original one.

Here it is installed,
Image

A sharp eye may have noticed that the bracket isn't bolted onto the axle, that's because the bolt was rusted into the fitting and it snapped.
Image

Random musing..
From the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail it is 14.75"
The hose is 26" long, but attaches about 1.5" above the bottom of the frame.
I *should* have about 10" of free hose in case I ever need to flex the rear suspension.

User avatar
JackFish
VIP Member
Posts: 2783
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 7:31 pm
Location: Winnipeg Manitoba Canada

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #12 by JackFish » Thu Mar 17, 2016 4:31 pm

Holy-moly you are an ambitious fellow. :shock:

Have you seen the Sulastic spring things?
http://www.sulastic.com/sulastic
https://store.mrtruck.com/ProductDetail ... ctCode=403
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
Yup, I bought another one.
1996 Chevy Caprice 9C1 (3)
1999 Dodge Ram 2500

User avatar
bubba22349
Global Moderator
Posts: 9093
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #13 by bubba22349 » Thu Mar 17, 2016 4:53 pm

X2 looks like your not afraid to go out and work in that cold with all that you accomplished, great job. :beer: Besides welding on the bumpers it like some past owner also went crazy welding all those little brackets on top of the frame rails what's their purpose? How much more lenght do you need for the emergency brake cables? I use to adapt some extensions to go in between the rear cables and the brake handle. Excellent progress good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

User avatar
CoupeBoy
VIP Member
Posts: 3422
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:17 am
Location: Fargo, ND
Contact:

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #14 by CoupeBoy » Thu Mar 17, 2016 5:38 pm

Jackfish, I had not seen those before, I'm a little concerned that adding the shackle flip and fancy shackles may lead to a little bit of a 'loose rearend' situation, so I'm going to stick to standard shackles for now.

The truck originally started life as a '78 and was in an accident that necessitated replacing the whole body with another one, and the previous owner put on a 75, and it is now titled as a '75.
The frame bracket extensions are due to an incompatibility of putting a 1975 pickup box designed for a 34" wide frame onto a 1978 37" wide frame.
I found out that mismatch after buying it, not that it really matters, I'll be fixing all the oddities as I go.
That is also why on the fuel tank swap the front corners of the gas tank were dented, if the box bolts were at their proper width, the bolts would go through the frame and wouldn't need the brackets.

In regards to the brake cables, I think they may be ok, they seem to have plenty of slack and I won't be going offroading (much), I have considered maxing out the suspension with a forklift after I get everything installed to see if I need to add limit straps to prevent from pulling things apart... again.

User avatar
bubba22349
Global Moderator
Posts: 9093
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: 2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250

Post #15 by bubba22349 » Fri Mar 18, 2016 1:37 am

:hmmm: Thats interesting I haven't heard of anyone wanting to register a vehicle as being older then it actually was. So dose the frame serial number match the title or did they use the body tag number? Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest