Toe specs needed

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brandoncw
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Toe specs needed

Post #1 by brandoncw » Sun Oct 29, 2017 9:20 pm

So i am having trouble finding toe specs on my 93 f150. I hit a hidden stump with my tie rod and luckily only bent the two little straps that adjust the toe alignment. Its always pulled to the left but now its really bad. I woukd like to know how much the wheels should be toed in. Is a 1/4 in (between the tires front and back difference) acceptable? Thanks for the help

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bubba22349
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Re: Toe specs needed

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:48 pm

1/4 inch s a bit much the Toe should be 1/16 inch. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

brandoncw
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Re: Toe specs needed

Post #3 by brandoncw » Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:21 pm

bubba22349 wrote:1/4 inch s a bit much the Toe should be 1/16 inch. Good luck :nod:

OK, is that the measurement for the tires individually or total?

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B RON CO
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Re: Toe specs needed

Post #4 by B RON CO » Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:38 am

Hi, there is more to toe setting then just a measurement. The steering box must be centered, with the pitman arm straight in the middle of travel. Usually centering the steering wheel is good enough, but not always. Next all the tire pressure must be set. You need a level slab for a good measurement. Toe is checked from the middle of the axle, and since we can't measure from the middle, we must compromise. We have toe plates (from setting up a race car, you can do it with a 2 x 6 board) to get square to the tires and measure the front distance, and the back distance. For instance, if the front is 75 and 5/8, and the back is 75 and 3/4, the toe is 1/8 toe in. You still can't be positive which side to adjust, except you will probably be OK to adjust the side that is bent. Only a really good eye, or a computer alignment machine will let you know when the toe is set equally, a little in on each side. By the way the factory specs are only a guideline, and many cars handle better anywhere from 1/4 to 0 toe in. Our Saturday night stock car runs 3/16 toe out, not toe in. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

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brandoncw
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Re: Toe specs needed

Post #5 by brandoncw » Wed Nov 01, 2017 2:10 pm

B RON CO wrote:Hi, there is more to toe setting then just a measurement. The steering box must be centered, with the pitman arm straight in the middle of travel. Usually centering the steering wheel is good enough, but not always. Next all the tire pressure must be set. You need a level slab for a good measurement. Toe is checked from the middle of the axle, and since we can't measure from the middle, we must compromise. We have toe plates (from setting up a race car, you can do it with a 2 x 6 board) to get square to the tires and measure the front distance, and the back distance. For instance, if the front is 75 and 5/8, and the back is 75 and 3/4, the toe is 1/8 toe in. You still can't be positive which side to adjust, except you will probably be OK to adjust the side that is bent. Only a really good eye, or a computer alignment machine will let you know when the toe is set equally, a little in on each side. By the way the factory specs are only a guideline, and many cars handle better anywhere from 1/4 to 0 toe in. Our Saturday night stock car runs 3/16 toe out, not toe in. Good luck

i have always set the steering wheel straight and used a couple jack stands to hold a string up all the way around the vehicle and make the string parallel to the frame and equidistant on both sides from it as well. Then i measure measure toe off the string, I know it isn't going to be exact if there are frame issues and the rear wheels may not track true to the frame either. But on the two trucks i have done it too after replacing tie rod ends it worked fine or even better than what i started with

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bubba22349
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Re: Toe specs needed

Post #6 by bubba22349 » Wed Nov 01, 2017 2:25 pm

brandoncw wrote:
B RON CO wrote:Hi, there is more to toe setting then just a measurement. The steering box must be centered, with the pitman arm straight in the middle of travel. Usually centering the steering wheel is good enough, but not always. Next all the tire pressure must be set. You need a level slab for a good measurement. Toe is checked from the middle of the axle, and since we can't measure from the middle, we must compromise. We have toe plates (from setting up a race car, you can do it with a 2 x 6 board) to get square to the tires and measure the front distance, and the back distance. For instance, if the front is 75 and 5/8, and the back is 75 and 3/4, the toe is 1/8 toe in. You still can't be positive which side to adjust, except you will probably be OK to adjust the side that is bent. Only a really good eye, or a computer alignment machine will let you know when the toe is set equally, a little in on each side. By the way the factory specs are only a guideline, and many cars handle better anywhere from 1/4 to 0 toe in. Our Saturday night stock car runs 3/16 toe out, not toe in. Good luck

i have always set the steering wheel straight and used a couple jack stands to hold a string up all the way around the vehicle and make the string parallel to the frame and equidistant on both sides from it as well. Then i measure measure toe off the string, I know it isn't going to be exact if there are frame issues and the rear wheels may not track true to the frame either. But on the two trucks i have done it too after replacing tie rod ends it worked fine or even better than what i started with


Yes those methods also work good and should get you quite close. My way is that I scribe a line on the center of front tires to measure front and rear after I have centered the steering box on the high point and determined how the front wheels line up in relation to the rear wheels. On my drag race cars I make all the settings with driver weight loaded as it will be raced and with the front suspension raised 1 inch. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

brandoncw
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Re: Toe specs needed

Post #7 by brandoncw » Thu Nov 02, 2017 10:10 am

bubba22349 wrote:
brandoncw wrote:
B RON CO wrote:Hi, there is more to toe setting then just a measurement. The steering box must be centered, with the pitman arm straight in the middle of travel. Usually centering the steering wheel is good enough, but not always. Next all the tire pressure must be set. You need a level slab for a good measurement. Toe is checked from the middle of the axle, and since we can't measure from the middle, we must compromise. We have toe plates (from setting up a race car, you can do it with a 2 x 6 board) to get square to the tires and measure the front distance, and the back distance. For instance, if the front is 75 and 5/8, and the back is 75 and 3/4, the toe is 1/8 toe in. You still can't be positive which side to adjust, except you will probably be OK to adjust the side that is bent. Only a really good eye, or a computer alignment machine will let you know when the toe is set equally, a little in on each side. By the way the factory specs are only a guideline, and many cars handle better anywhere from 1/4 to 0 toe in. Our Saturday night stock car runs 3/16 toe out, not toe in. Good luck



Yes those methods also work good and should get you quite close. My is that I scribe a line on the center of front tires to measure front and rear after I have centered the steering box on the high point and determined how the front wheels line up in relation to the rear wheels. On my drag race cars I make all the settings with driver weight loaded as it will be raced and with the front suspension raised 1 inch. Good luck :nod:

Thanks guys :thumbup: The truck drives as straight as an arrow now. Im also helping a guy put in a full spool in his 8.8. All i need to know is do we need any friction modifier? I thinks its meant for limited slip but i just want to make sure. We have all the preload and backlash already set.

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bubba22349
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Re: Toe specs needed

Post #8 by bubba22349 » Thu Nov 02, 2017 10:15 pm

:beer: congrats on getting the toe set! As to your other question your are right there is no need to use a friction modifier with a Spool as there isn't any clutches. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Toe specs needed

Post #9 by Wesman07 » Thu Nov 02, 2017 10:53 pm

I like to stick a T pin in the tread of each tire and roll the wheels. Obviously measuring at 9 and and 3 o clock
86 f150 300 efi with advanced stock cam. Np435, Dana 60/ 10.25, 35" BFG's, four link front suspension with 12" travel fox coil overs, custom deaver leaf pack in the rear.

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