Drag link geomerty

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sprog777
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Drag link geomerty

Post #1 by sprog777 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 2:28 pm

Does the center link on a 1966 mustang with power steering have a bow to the rear of the car or should it be straight. Right where the slave cylinder connects to center link it bows to the rear of the car. I don't know if it is bent there or made that way. If some one could measure from the the sway bar to the center link that would tell me if mine is bent. Any suggestions?

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bubba22349
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Re: Drag link geomerty

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:07 pm

sprog777 wrote:Does the center link on a 1966 mustang with power steering have a bow to the rear of the car or should it be straight. Right where the slave cylinder connects to center link it bows to the rear of the car. I don't know if it is bent there or made that way. If some one could measure from the the sway bar to the center link that would tell me if mine is bent. Any suggestions?


Yes the power steering center link is made to have a slight bow in it. This is needed to be able to provide enough clearance for the power assist cylinder to mount and operate. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

sprog777
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Re: Drag link geomerty

Post #3 by sprog777 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 12:03 pm

I understand that it should have a slight bow but this is more than slight. I can see where there are marks on the center link like some one took a bfh to get the slave cylinder off. I am going to redo complete stock suspension and don't want to start out wrong. Maybe it is to much to ask someone to measure from center link to stock sway bar.
but I don't know how else to tell how bad the bend is.

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65coupei6
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Re: Drag link geomerty

Post #4 by 65coupei6 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 12:36 pm

There are many pictures if you Google it. Will this help? http://www.stangerssite.com/centerlinks.html

If not you might as well spend the $100 and buy a new one if it 40 years old anyways.
...Marco

'65 Mustang Inline 200. VI (CI) Aluminum Head, Holley 350, Schneider 264/274 cam,
Headers, DSII, MSD 6A, and a whole lotta other stuff!

Build That Six With Parts From VintageInlines.com

sprog777
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Re: Drag link geomerty

Post #5 by sprog777 » Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:13 pm

I looked at the pictures and cant tell much from them other that there is a bow. Don't know about you but if I start throwing 100 dollars at things that aren't a problem I may as well light a cigar with it. I guess i'll check the tow and if is really bent it should show up there. I have all new suspension parts that are going on the car and I would not like to start off on the wrong foot. Thanks for the reply.

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bubba22349
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Re: Drag link geomerty

Post #6 by bubba22349 » Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:21 pm

If you can post a picture of your parts then probally can tell if it's bent or just as was made. I can tell you that it would take quite a bit of force to bend one though. Are you still using the power steering system or has it been removed? Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

sprog777
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Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:45 pm

Re: Drag link geomerty

Post #7 by sprog777 » Sat Jan 27, 2018 12:51 pm

I intend to use the car almost stock. Just putting all new bushings and ball joints. I plan on putting on headers and dual exhaust. It has an excellent paint job and I have completely redone the interior. I still have all the old parts if anyone needs anything. I may cut the springs to drop front end an inch. Put on rebuilt distributor with petronix, replaced water pump with new, replaced harmonic balancer, put in a new radiator and have new motor mounts yet to do. One thing I did was to stop all the fluid leaks. I messed up on the rear differential. I didn't pre measure the torque it took to rotate .So I know I will have to have a new crush sleeve and maybe get some idea here what to torque it to. If anyone has an idea I'd love to here it. Also will be putting on disk brakes on the front.

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bubba22349
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Re: Drag link geomerty

Post #8 by bubba22349 » Tue Jan 30, 2018 1:45 pm

sprog777 wrote:I intend to use the car almost stock. Just putting all new bushings and ball joints. I plan on putting on headers and dual exhaust. It has an excellent paint job and I have completely redone the interior. I still have all the old parts if anyone needs anything. I may cut the springs to drop front end an inch. Put on rebuilt distributor with petronix, replaced water pump with new, replaced harmonic balancer, put in a new radiator and have new motor mounts yet to do. One thing I did was to stop all the fluid leaks. I messed up on the rear differential. I didn't pre measure the torque it took to rotate .So I know I will have to have a new crush sleeve and maybe get some idea here what to torque it to. If anyone has an idea I'd love to here it. Also will be putting on disk brakes on the front.


Over all it sounds like a very good plan :thumbup: including the, front disk brakes, headers and duel exhaust! When you do the front end rebuild are you considering doing the Arning / Shelby drop? It is a great mod in my OPIN. Do you have a front sway bar on it?

That's too bad on the piñon seal change but in my opinion this shouldn't even be done without a total disassembly it is quit rare that these quick type repairs will ever work. Hopefully there hasn't yet been any damage to the ring an piñon gears. The correct turning torque spec of piñon bearings is setting is very important!

The pinion bearing preload setting, and also what is the ideal gear contact patern looks like are all listed in the Ford factory shop repair manual. Step one and Its a bit tricky on your first time is setting up of the pinion bearing preload in the axel housing, as once you have over tightened the pinion nut creating too much bearing drag then its going to require another new crush sleeve be installed. After the piñon load is set next hurdle is the setting of the ring gear contact pattern this also can take some time to get right. Lastly you set the backlash. All these items takes some reasonably good or advanced type mechanic skills, time, plus a few special tools (like a dial indicator and a couple of accurate torque wrenches. Below is a link that has fairly extensive details on the part numbers and the rebuilding of the 7 1/4 inch rear axles. Good luck on your car :thumbup: :nod:

viewtopic.php?f=76&t=70657&p=542357&hilit=Mustang+Rear+axle+rebuild#p542357
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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