61 Falcon Van Vin Decode

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rwbrooks50
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61 Falcon Van Vin Decode

Post #1 by rwbrooks50 » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:42 pm

Vin # F12AH791567. What do I have?

james singleton
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Post #2 by james singleton » Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:14 am

Rwbrooks50, I am not positive about this, but here goes: I know that the letter "C" stands for the 1960's, and that "D" stands for the 1970's, and so on and so forth...........! The number right after the letter stands for the particular year of that vehicle; such as "C1" would indicate the year 1961, "C5" would be a 1965, and so on.......! Unless I am wrong your particular # that starts with a "F1" your vehicle, or engine should be a 1991! Maybe somebody else can verify this for you! Good Luck, Jim

brm
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Post #3 by brm » Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:51 am

the first letter should be an "E"
"12" is a custom station bus
"A" should be the engine code, but I am not finding this for 1961, only "S" =144,
"T"= 170 and "K" for 144 low compression export
"H" is Lorain assembly plant
"791567" serial,
are you sure this is a 1961 model, your serial is for a later year. 65 or 66 ?
one way to tell if your truck matches your VIN tag is to remove the front and right hand dog house panels. under them and the goo that they used to seal them is the true VIN stamped in the sheet metal.
hope this helps.
Brian

rwbrooks50
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Post #4 by rwbrooks50 » Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:41 am

Thanks.

The first letter is an "E". The engine may be a 240, is has a side cover. The van and engine looks original.

The seller said is was a 61. I will pick up in a few days. Will be back with more info.

Rick

james singleton
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Post #5 by james singleton » Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:34 pm

RWBROOKS50, I'm sorry that I threw you a curve ball on the VIN# last night; it was late when I read your post. I was thinking about the #'s on the engine block, exhaust manifold,etc..., when I wrote about the C = 60's, D = 70's, etc...! I have a Chilton's Ford Vans Manual (1961 - 1986) and it gives some reference to the VIN #'s in the front part part of the book. The following is an example under 1961 & 62 Ford Vans; they give this example for vin# E10SH205001: They say that E10 is "Series-Letter And First Two Digits Of Series Designation" / the "H" would be the "Assembly Plant" / and the 205001 is the "Unit Number". In some of the other examples of vin #'s from 1970 - 1980 they show the letter "F" as standing for "Truck Series Code".
A few pages later they list "Engine Codes", and show that in 1961 (thru 1964) there were only 2 engine codes listed: the letter "S" for a 6-144, and the letter "T" for the 6-170; just like Brian/brm mentioned in his previous post. The letter code in your VIN with the letter "A" is shown for a 6-240 engine and supposedly started in the year 1969 through 1974. I don't know if this info helps you; hopefully it does! Check out either the "Oldeconlines" or the "Econosrus" websites; they did have a guy named Don English who could interpet what your VIN # stood for; unfortunately he retired just recently from doing this work. Maybe somebody else on either of those two websites can give you the info you are looking for! Good Luck! Jim

rwbrooks50
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Post #6 by rwbrooks50 » Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:28 pm

I got the van today. The insurance papers in the van said it's a 1964. It has a 240 I6, automatic and 9" rearend. I will have pictures soon.

I am getting keys made to see if it will start. The engine and trans oil is clean. No brakes.

Thanks again for the info.

Rick

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Post #7 by james singleton » Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:11 am

Rick, congratulations on getting the van! I don't believe the 240 engine would be stock, because according to my Manual they did not start putting the 240 in the early econolines until 1969. I have a registered 1964 Econoline (Heavy Duty) that had a stock 9" rear with a 4.11 until I replaced the 4.11 with a 3.50 gear ratio. The gear ratios listed for the 1964 Econoline are a 3.50, 4.00, 4.11, and a 4.55! I installed disc brakes on the front which helps. There is a lot of useful information on the "old" Econolines on two websites in particular that I have found: The "Oldeconolines" website and the "Econosrus" website; check them out. Probably more engine mechanical info on the Fordsix website, but for other Econo info those sites are really good. Good Luck! Jim

brm
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Post #8 by brm » Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:57 am

Congratulations Rick !
I,m thinking that it must be a 65. the serial # fit's that year, the 240 engine was an option also in 65. the 9" rear axle would naturally go with the 240 engine. a Custom station bus should have the extended rear so it would have been sold with the 240 and 9" as standard. the really nice part about it is having the C4 trans. they are rare due to the tail housing and the column. alot of vans and pick up's have had auto trans adapted to them, the best set up is standard from the factory, my opinion of course. 64 would have the heater box on the floor and 65 will have the heater up under the dash. I had also forgot to mention that serial # were also stamped on the rear RH brace, just forward of the RH tail lamp.
Jim is correct, Old econolines is a good source for info about body and chassis, a nice group willing to help out with parts. engine info is better served here.
I also have a 64 heavy duty short panel van. it's been my daily driver for about 10 years.

Brian

rwbrooks50
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Post #9 by rwbrooks50 » Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:59 am

I reviewed the insurance papers again. It listed it as 1966.

The heater is under the dash. So it's 1965 or 1966.

The gears shifter will not move. Even with the linkage disconnected. Can the column be stuck at the bushing on the floor?


Great info guys. I will get pictures this weekend.

Rick.

rwbrooks50
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Post #10 by rwbrooks50 » Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:20 am

I got the van home. The engine will turn over after replacing the starter. However, there is no fire to the distributor, coil or plugs. Points, rotor, cap and wiring looks good. Where should I start to solve the problem?

All the lights and accessories work off the ignition switch.

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Post #11 by mustang6 » Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:46 am

I would start by seeing if there is power to the coil when the ignition is on, if yes then the problem is in one of those ignition items you listed, if no then backtrack from there (resistor wire, ignition switch, etc) back to a point where you do have power. Also, just because accessories work off an ignition switch does not mean the start/run power is working from it. Sometimes I have "hotwired" directly from the battery to the coil just to bypass all the underdash wiring and confirm the engine will run. THis is just a temporary measure that is hard on the points. Good luck, I know you'll figure it out!
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

66 E100 Pickup
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Post #12 by 66 E100 Pickup » Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:32 am

I had an intermittant problem once, it turned out that the pronged connector inside the dizzy was grounding out...these things can be real frustrating, but if you follow the trouble shooting guide, backtracking, supplying juice to confirm, etc...it will get figured out.

John

rwbrooks50
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Post #13 by rwbrooks50 » Thu Feb 21, 2008 2:27 am

Thanks Scott & John.

The locksmith pulled the ign switch to re-key. I'll check the wiring to be sure he installed it correctly.

Rick

james singleton
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Post #14 by james singleton » Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:31 pm

I had a similar problem a year or so ago and it turned out to be the "bare" ground wire inside the distributor had come loose when I was installing a Petronix Ignition system. Good Luck; let us know what you find. Jim

rwbrooks50
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Post #15 by rwbrooks50 » Fri Feb 22, 2008 7:51 pm

Thanks Jim. I'll look for that too.

rwbrooks50
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240 Is Running

Post #16 by rwbrooks50 » Wed Feb 27, 2008 9:33 pm

Well we got is running. javascript:emoticon(':lol:')
LaughingThe points were not gapped. My Dad, GOD bless his soul, alway told me to start with the simple things first. Well I guess I still haven't figured that out.

Motor sounds real good and strong. Next I need to get the shifter column loose and bleed the brakes.

I'll load some pictures soon.

Thanks for the help.
Rick

james singleton
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Post #17 by james singleton » Fri Feb 29, 2008 3:04 am

Rick, glad you were able to find the problem! Jim

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