rear main seal...240cid auto trans

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econovan
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Location: Knoxville, TN

rear main seal...240cid auto trans

Post #1 by econovan » Thu Oct 30, 2008 6:33 pm

Hi guys,
I couldn't find anything so I'm asking here with first post :)

I've got oil dripping out of the rear main seal area of my "new" '66 Econoline.
I replaced the oil pan seal last week.
I've got someone to help but the Econoline is new to both of us.
I'd appreciate any helpful information regarding the procedure of engine removal and seal replacement. And while I have it out is there anything else that should be replaced? Rear crank seal?
I plan to start Saturday morning.

Thanks, Pat

mutt
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Post #2 by mutt » Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:09 pm

if you can get the pan off, no need to yank the engine. remove the rear main bng cap. 1/2 the seal is in it, the other half you can VERY CAREFULLY get out. Parts store sell rear main seal installation tools" a wire "chinese handcuff" to pull the new seal upper thru.
oil pan gasket- completely clean, & any defornations around the bolt holes tapped flat w/ a ballpein. Indian head shellac on the pan, hold the gasket in place with thread thru the bolt holes & knotted.
a light smear of grease on the block side, & 8 years from now, when you drop the pan, itll come apart in one piece & can be reused.....

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econovan
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Location: Knoxville, TN

Post #3 by econovan » Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:56 pm

Half the seal?
It's a one piece seal.

Victor La Fountaine
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Post #4 by Victor La Fountaine » Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:38 pm

I was gonna say the same as to one pc seal,, just looking in my parts today,, found also a seal repair unit,, OUCH,, I had marked the price on it,, $76 something,, anyway,, as one pc seal,, if you can would loosen all the mains, just enough to take some tension off the seal and crank,, pop in a new one,, but at the same time,, how many miles do you have on it,, is it just the seal that wore out,, OR,, is there enough wear in the crank and bearings to wear the seal out???? might not hurt to plastigauge them while your at it????
ANOTHER real important pc of info, told to me by a major builder, in fact their rebuilds include the seal repair sleeve.... AS TOLD TO Me,,, The 240/300's, have a tempermental rear seal flange,, and you need to re torque them slowly and in order,, OR RISK, distorting the flange and always wearing the seal out,, dont just zap it with an impact gun,,,,,
You can suspend the engine with a cherry picker, in a van, its easy through the side doors,, in a pickup,, I made a unit that assembles in the cab, and drop em out the bottom,
vic/ca

Victor La Fountaine
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Post #5 by Victor La Fountaine » Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:41 pm

rereading,, just wanted to make it clear,, in re torquing,, meaning the flex plate or flywheel,,,,, the seal saver a sleeve to replace/repair the seal surface on the crankshaft, same idea as spindle seal area repair..
vic/ca

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econovan
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Post #6 by econovan » Fri Oct 31, 2008 8:56 pm

thanks vic :)

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