Finally – It’s Alive! - Can't get it to Run

More please! I'd be happy to see a longer video. Cannot wait to see in-car footage of a drive.

p.s. I have a '71 F-250 Sport Custom Camper Special =)
 
This build was finished using the 2V intake from the Aussi head. With the absence of the new intake I was able to get this intake to help get this project going again. The view below shows the adapter I designed to inable me to use the Autolite 2100. This intake is why the carb is rotated 90 degrees to the valve cover.

I do plan on either obtaining the new intake or building an intake of my own design. In the mean time this will have to do. I plan on running this setup and enjoying the 2008 touring season.

2VAdapt5.jpg
 
wallaka":31r9u47t said:
FalconSedanDelivery":31r9u47t said:
the bowl should be facing the valve cover ,

Not if the throttle doesn't work that way.

Respose to ( WALLAKA )

So if mixture distibution is off and it dosent run like it should , that dosent matter as long as the throttle is easy to hook up . ?? , ,,

Rick I understand your wanting to drive the car , but when the 1-3 cylinders run lean , and 4-6 run rich dont say you werent warned , that intake design was for a staged 2brl where the butterflys open east and west ( good design and gives proper mixture distribution ) just trying to help , nice car though
 
8) Its great to have you here,FalconSedanDelivery, it's great to have someone with the years of hard earned experience. You are an asset to everyone, becasue your focus is the issues, not the periferals.


Not trying to be picky, but in this case, the point of order is that on production English, Aussie and early Argentian Ford I6's, the carbs were set up with the float bowl forwards. The 2V Aussie intake was designed for a Stromberg WW 2-bbl carb, non staged, exactly the same as the local Australian 302 Cleveland carb. According to my 1990 article, it was designed by Ford, and tested by ex Repco development engineers brought into Ford Australia in the late sixtees before the 250 2v engine was finally introduced in 1971. So the 250 2v I6 ran the same carb as the 302C V8, ran the same quarter mile times, and yielded better fuel consumption, despite the I6 being rated at 170 hp grss verses 240 hp gross for the 302 Cleveland


Chrysler Australia used the same technique of using a V8 carb on there 245 and 265 2-bbl sixes, whic ran the same Carter/Email carb as the 318 2-bbl.

All of them had float bowl forward intakes, and they worked better because they never suffered fuel surge.


;) I totally accept the 1-3 and 4-6 fuel distribution issue, FalconSedanDelivery, and do not dispute an iota of your experience or technical point of order. It is just not a primary issue in the case of a six cylinder Falcon or Valiant leaning up to 7 degrees through a tight left hander in a car race, the fuel surge of a carb mounted with is float bowl parallel to the engine centreline is impossible to cope with unless you have modern Holley 2300/4150/4160 jet extenders or a better float design. 2-bbl Falcons and Valiants got raced extensively in oval track, and worked very well with this set-up, and its advantages outweigh its disadvantages.
 
My point is for fuel distribution based on butterfly position , not the float bowls , in racing with the throttle open over 90 percent of the time its ok , I mentioned the bowl position only because Hollly and Motorcraft/Autolite carbs will work best with the bowl facing the Valve cover , and that is what most here are using ,I do appreciate the insite on the Aussie stuff , always good to learn new info , thank you
 
Thanks, guys.

Everything we do here has to do with improving design. All of these individual points need to be mentioned, repeated and remembered until a solution can be found and used.

The point on Throttle Plate position is a common since approach to equalizing flow through this Inline Pump. I plan on spending many hours “Playingâ€￾ with my new toy. This will include reading the plugs just because of this point.

Thanks again to everyone for the help. Keep it up, Ric.
 
that fellow in the back ground looks middle aged... not old.

:checks:

The Holley carb fuel bowl on my Aussie head intake will face the front of the car.
 
Cool Ric!!

Well worth the download time....stupid dial up! ;)

My Holley is also facing bowl forward, where it will stay. ;) :D :D

Looking forward to seeing more close up videos also! :eek: :eek:

Later,

Doug
 
Well I was able to drive the car out of the shop under it’s own power yesterday.

I still have the air cleaner to solve. I purchased the 10â€￾ holley air cleaner but it is still too high. I think the difference between my set up and Doug’s is the OEM Phenallic spacer I used for the PCV supply. This raises the carb by about .75â€￾?

Suggestions? I may have to use the setup that Bill is using on his 69’. It’s very clean and picks up the air from the cooler side of the engine.

The brakes still need to be bled and engine run to confirm that it doesn’t overheat. The plan is to make the first run on the streets Monday 1/7. We will be taking baby steps from the shop until we are comfortable I can travel the 45 + minutes it takes to get home.

One other thing I noticed was the rear end is "off center". After compairing to a few other 66' coupes there, their was only one that was actually centered under the chassis.

I will post something under the correct forum on this.

Ric.
 
when i installed the 250-2v head on my falcon with 250ci and holley 350cfm i had clearance issues too. i ended up using this proform 9" round, 3" high setup from Summit and have a bit more than a 1/2 clearance now. here is the link.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... 15&FROM=MG

66200i6":25wf52u0 said:
I still have the air cleaner to solve. I purchased the 10â€￾ holley air cleaner but it is still too high. I think the difference between my set up and Doug’s is the OEM Phenallic spacer I used for the PCV supply. This raises the carb by about .75â€￾?

Suggestions? I may have to use the setup that Bill is using on his 69’. It’s very clean and picks up the air from the cooler side of the engine.



Ric.
 
The Stang is finally home and put to bed. Now the fun begins.

Never did get the aircleaner problem solved. The shop ended up making a filter fit the 5â€￾ carb base and a plate to match. I need to solve this before any major run.

The first thing I noticed was that the shifter was way to loose. Turns out the bushings used to install the Hurst shifter were too long to get the shaft torque to the trani knob. The shifter was wobbling all over the place. The holes at the base of the Hurst shaft are larger than the threaded holes in the T-5 shifter knob. I’m surprised the shaft didn’t come with the proper fasteners to work with the T-5 knob. This was an easy fix.

As it turns out, the gearing is too tall. I had asked for a wide ratio gear set in the T-5 which I thought was about 3.0:1. I didn’t bother to check when the tranni arrived last year. I haven’t done the math yet but a 3 to 1 first gear and a 3 to 1 Ring and Pinion, so there will be no quick starts off the line with this setup. A good example is, during acceleration off a light, I’m doing 30 before it even gets to the torque curve. I have no idea what the RPM is at that point but it is just starting to go to work. At 60, it’s too low an RPM for 5th gear. At 70, I’m running at the base of the curve in 5th so it is just starting to come on again. The stock suspension just can’t hack it, its starts to get dangerous so I have some suspension work to do before I push it.

The next major thing I noticed was very soft brakes. The shop installed the Scarebird front disk brakes, Mustang Steve’s pedal assembly and Vacuum Assist Canister. The shop initially installed the master from the 74’ Maverick but the pedal was too mushy for their taste. The 74’ cylinder was replace with the master from a dodge product that has a 7/8th inch piston. The reasoning was to increase the pressure to the system. I still don’t like the feel. The pedal is just too close to the floor and is still too soft. I will have to write up something as soon as I decided on a possible solution.

Over all I’m happy to have it on the road again. I will be able to attend club functions and fix these little things as I enjoy the ride.

Much left to do:
Replace stock seats with late model Cobra buckets
Suspension upgrade – do I go to the coil over in the front and rear?
Sub Frame Connectors
Monte Carlo bar or an equivalent – Total Control?
Front and Rear Anti Sway
MP3 Tunes
Wiring up grades – Head light brightener circuit
Electric Fan – maybe even an electric water pump
Wheels and tires


More to come, Ric.
 
Wow! What a wee bit of tuning will do. I got around to playing with adjustments for the first time last night. This was the second time that I have driven the car. There was nearly “0â€￾ degrees of initial advance, total advance of over 50* and the Vacuum Advance was plugged into the Ported supply, which has a bad connection and is leaking vacuum.

After a few changes this thing woke up. The higher RPM’s sounded as if it wasn’t working as hard and with a nice even high toned frequency. I had better low end torque as well.

I can’t wait to dial in the advance curve and have it dyno’d. I will be visiting John at the Horspower Ranch this Saturday for Show and Tell.

Ric.
 
Rick, you need to get one of my intakes on before you dyno it. I finally got my triple weber intake back, so I took a pic of the ports with the OZ intake. The mismatch is worst than I thought, whereas the new intakes match up perfectly.

port.jpg
 
Thanks, Mike. It will be some time before we perform the Dyno. The Shop didn't install the AirFuel bung I had asked for so that needs to be resolved. There are other issues with the work that was done so I need time to go through all the work that was performed before I make another trip down there.

Also, I received an email notice of your post. I think it's working again. Go figure?

Ric.
 
Back
Top