Does anyone know of a part # for the 1/8 pipe on new al head that would be compatible or close with temp gage in 69 ford bronco, my old one was 3/8 pipe, I'm wanting to keep oil, water, and temp stock, because I will need to run seperate boost, AFR, and fuel pressure gages, TIA
temp switch/ gage
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My questions is the water temp sending unit. I installed a 1/8 npt sending unit. I got it from advanced auto. It is a borg and warner. I am not getting a reading. I installed all new wiring in the dash and engine compartment. Gauge was fine from the start. I thought it was my wiring. I pulled plug off sending unit. I grounded the plug to the frame. Turned key, and my gauge went to full "H" for hot. To me the wiring and the gauge is working fine. Do I have the right temp sending unit. I took it back to adavanced auto, thinking it might be a defective sending unit. Installed new one, and it is doing the same. I am stumped. Anybody got any ideas. I got a 66 mustang with the alum head..
I talked to Mike, and he is working on it. He said there might be different amps on the sending units output.
However I did disconnect the pink wire and installed the DUI input wire to ignition switch. I do not think that has anything to do with temp sending unit...
Any comments will be great...
Wcol
I talked to Mike, and he is working on it. He said there might be different amps on the sending units output.
However I did disconnect the pink wire and installed the DUI input wire to ignition switch. I do not think that has anything to do with temp sending unit...
Any comments will be great...
Wcol
WCOL, its not a matter of amps, its a resistance to ground, most older gages have a plunger that moves against a reostat of resistance type material that vary the amount of ohms to ground, another example of this is your old style dimmer for your dash lights that moves along a reostat to change the voltage by increasing the ohms or resistance to flow of electricity. The auto zone # I posted worked on my application, so what you are trying to figure out is whether the ohms resistance is correct for your gage and you just can't check it with a meter without any pressure on it to cause resistance, because it is most likely an open circuit until pressure is applied.
Okay, thanks. Is there much difference in your 69 ford then my 66 mustang temp gauge. I seen people posting what temp sending unit do we use on alum head. The answer to these people were to buy 1/8 npt temp sending unit, and it will work. Also on Mikes web site it has this info. I buy one and it does not work. Mike was saying there might be different amps output on different sending units. Maybe he ment ohms. Your right it is a ground. He said he is not a electronics wizard. He was going to get back to me on this.
So I thought I would post on the forum.So what do you recommend me to do at this point.
So I thought I would post on the forum.So what do you recommend me to do at this point.
shmoozo
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wcol":2jmdb8s5 said:
One thought (which might not be a good one) is to check that the sending unit you bought is for a temperature gauge rather than for an temperature warning light. They are very different critters.
One other thought is to take that parts number provided (National Parts Depot #10884-1) and get one of those.
I pulled out the one that was on the cylinder head before. It has a number 8 and a 0 on it. That is on the sensor side that is in the coolant path when installed... Just some numbers if that will be any info to provide.
I might just try the npd part and see if it will work...
I might just try the npd part and see if it will work...
I'm not sure what to tell you at this point, all I know for sure is the auto zone number I posted, worked for my application and if you take your wire to your sensor and put it to ground with no resistance it will go to hot just like its suppose to and as you expressed, so I think your problem is in the sending unit.