EFI modded log head...MORE PICS!!!

well I forgot o get pics last week but not all is lost. friday when I go in for my shop day I will get some before I start ewelding. what I have going on is this....

first I turned some injector bungs from mild steel on a lathe (nothing fancy dimensions found online) I then tossed the bungs in the mill and cut a 45 face on the bottom of them (they will sit vertical in the log and didn't want to block the ports)

second I tossed the old direct mounted head project on a mill and bored 1 1/8" holes into the top of the "runners" on the log. the bungs are sized to fit loosly in these holes (I wanted a little alignment play in them....I have about 1/16" gap to weld on)

friday I will weld in the bungs and maybe clean up the directmount pad a little bit. I will get pics of the process and progress on it. this is an idea I have had for a couple years but never had the time/money/parts to make it happen. just let me state that this is not an ideal installation but just having fun with it. so far I have less than $100 in the project (mostly Ni welding rod) the head is getting a full rebuild after all welding is finished on it (decking and valvejob) I have no idea how well this will work but is purely for the educational factor and being a do'er
 
The bungs will want to melt first when welding them in. You will need to do a serious preheat to the log before welding them in.

Do they need to be honed/reamed/ machined after welding?
If I were to do it I would shoot for a light press fit and epoxy them in instead to prevent warping.
 
I looked into pressing and threading them in but since they need ot go at an angle that becomes a tough job. I have welded steel and cast iron before so nothing new for me. the area on the bungs where I will be welding is about 50% thicker than the iron. like I said I had a spare head and some time on my hands. I do all of my Fe welding cold....small short tacks with 15-20 mins between them.keeps the warpage down and doesn't distort the whole casting as much. I used the same process to weld up the side of a 2.3L motor I puked a rod on (only had two blocks and the good one was getting machined and I needed a running car)
 
I've got that 4.6 liter TB all boxed up and ready to ship to Carbondale!
 
eh I need to wait and see how this welding goes on friday.might need to whip out a flange for my new wastegate while I am in the shhop on friday (38mm tial)

spent some big bucks and got a nice big box full of stuff....

turbonetics hybrid (57 wheel in it and billet backing plate)
a bunch of IC tubing (a bunch polished)
38mm Tial wastegate
SS autochrome intercooler

figured I might sell off the intercooler as I have a bigger one in the works but might run it just because it is there. had to pay a few bucks for all of this but if I sell the IC and my old T3 then it won't be too bad of an upgrade (already have a buyer lined out on the T3)
 
well here are the pics as of now. the welds look like total crap as the welder I am on I think has a dead pedal on it still. lots of cold weld being laid down but gonna clean it up with the die grinder and do it on the welder at home I think over thanksgiving. but thay are tacked in at least. the inside of the log was very clean where the runners met up...no flashing at all just a nice smooth radius corner.

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Beautiful work Turbo.... cant wait to see the finished product
 
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here is the partially welded head. I am having problems with the welder I was using (TIG unit and has a dead foot pedal.....amperage was either 60 or 160 so either makes holes to can't even sustain an arc for crap....gonna properly weld this later on)

throttle is off a 3.8L gm FWD motor. the front on it is where the idle solenoid bolts up but I think I will be remote mounting it for clearance issues. it will get mounted up on a 1"-1.5" thick spacer in the end so that will give me some injector clearnace. I still need to make fuel rails and finish the head welding on it though. not doing too bad since I am working out of a storage unit it no power and finding places to do this and that on it. seriously thinking of a $70 HF arc welder so at least I can TRY and weld stuff together.
 
turbo_fairlane_200":v6wri7sg said:
I am seriously thinking of a $70 HF arc welder so at least I can TRY and weld stuff together.

I would spend a little more and get a used unit that is name brand. Or buy some time with a good machine.

If you use nickel rod you'll need to preheat, so you'll need a rosebud, too.
Also, A DC welder makes such nicer welds than an AC "buzzbox"
 
turbo

Eeeee gadz :shock: I've seen fire hose nozzels smaller than that. Just kidding! Looks good!!!

You probably have enough structural strength on your injector bungs now - how about sandblasting it and a couple layers of epoxy? A lot have been done without any welding at all. A perfect looking weld on cast iron may still have hairline cracks. I would keep welding to a minimum. I'm no welder but I've had the best luck with tig.
 
well basicly these bungs were priced right....free. I could have turned them down but didn't want to get them thin and then burn one up welding them in. basicly I found a hunk of 1" or so round stock bored/reamed them and then did a counter bore on them. took me I think about 3 hours to make all 6 of them.

if I had my own lathe/mill I def would be cranking out more crazy stuff like this. likeI said I have been kicking around this idea for about 2-3 years now.

I have had good luck with welding with Ni rod cold. no preheating but keeping welds to .5" MAX and letting it cool between tacks (until it is room temp again) I was planning on getting them mostly welded in and then dressing with a grinder and epoxying them over (I know there will be pinholes since they are all stiched together) $3 of epoxy beats dealing with vac leaks.
 
I still think it is better to preheat than to weld cold.

turbo_fairlane_200":2apc685t said:
and epoxying them over (I know there will be pinholes since they are all stiched together) $3 of epoxy beats dealing with vac leaks.

Put all six intake valves in, all six injectors, a cover plate for the TB hole, then apply full vacuum to it while you put the epoxy on so it gets sucked into the little holes.
 
I need to dress the welds a bit tomorrow and then hit a couple spots but the head s pretty much finished as far as injector pockets.

I had started with a direct mount setup on teh head (drilled for a weber pattern so I could run a 5200 or run a plate and 2300)

but with the proximity of the center injectors I am going to fab and weld on a 2" or so riser for an elbow to bolt to for the throttle body. basicly just a stub with a flange on it that will just come out high enough to get in and weld everything (will prob weld the tube section to the head then weld the flange on to that) figured this would be the best route to get the flange up a little bit (and smaller) to clear the fuel rail and injector bodies. hoping to get the flange made up next week so I can get this head off to a shop for decking and a valve job. might give some mild port cleanup on the head before this. not looking to make max power frmo this frankenstien thing but just for the pure purpose of hot rodding. if it all works out fine I might even do some other welded up project head with another spare head I have.



linc- as far as welding cold, the casitng is some thin stuff so it heats up quick. I run on the high range for the amperage when welding and only make short welds roughly 1/2" long at a time. there are no cold joints but this keeps the heat in it down low. only 1-2 welds in a small area are placed at a time (5-10 mins apart) and the head is allowed to cool back to room temp between welds. after 5 mins the area is generally just barely warm feeling. it makes for a slow process but works for me. I was taught to weld cast iron this way by my father (certified cast iron welder for CAT, welded cranks and heads up this way for repairs) if it is good enough for $$$ truck motors then it can work on my $50 spare head I have.
 
nope. in the midst of it I moved 1100 miles with a weeks notice (8 months ago) and have also since started a sizable aussie motor collection (current count is 3 and working on number four)

Granted I would love to see if I could get the CFI setup up and running still (car is currently wired for it and lacks maybe an afternoon of work from being fired up)
 
lacks an afternoon's work? dude! c'mon! do this!

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Actually, the way the log is designed, it may be just as effective and a lot easier to place injectors horizontally on the outside of the log rather than trying to squeeze them in vertically. Neither position is optimal but there's probably very little real world performance difference in either layout that couldn't be taken care of with X-tau tuning.
 
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