My Tempo EFI conversion

on the CFI unit (2v) the outlet is a 1/4" npt. I am just plugging it up and running an external. I know it is kinda late but I would look to see if you could ream the return side out with a drill to get a bit more flow from it. just get it torn down to a base casting drill and then blow out the passages.

how long does it have to sit before it starts loading up?
 
I dont remember the thread size on it, but i have 5/16 barbs on both the "in" and "out" on the ThrottleBody. It loads up within a minute or so of running. I still think im just going to get a more appropriate fuel pump, and if that one doesnt work then off comes the TB for some porting.

Affordable Fuel injection emailed me back and said that they use the "P5001" (can look up at napa's online store) fuel pump for their TBI systems. Its the same thing as the Carter fuel pump i posted from Summit racing. Just FYI i guess :D

Here is where i am at now.
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Im starting to get proud of how its turning out. Of all the electrical wires i have run, it doesnt look like there are too many extra electrical things on this car.

Here is one of the changes i made to my fuel system
Picture 2
I first had my pressure gauge in the trunk to be with the filter and pump, but then realized that was extremely stupid :D and put it up here
 
Thank you FB71.

I fixed the fuel pressure problem. I decided to take the TB back off and port it out like turbo said. I forgot to take pictures (my bad :x ) but i found some interesting things out.

The fuel ports in the TB are very small, but are not the main cause of the crappy flow rate. Right at the "in" side of the TB, right where you thread the brass barb into the TB, there is a little filter deep down by the threads. I dunno why i didnt see it when i changed out to the brass barb, but it is kinda hard to see if your not looking for it. Anyways, its a nylon filter that has a SUPER small hole leading to the injector. I couldnt get it out so i just broke it off and drilled out the plastic.

After that just to make sure i didnt have to do this again, i drilled out each passageway to 7/32. I really could have went farther but i didnt want to push it.

Since i didnt take any pictures you get to look at more rushed artwork made it MS paint!

Picture

The little yellow thing is the main problem, just below the threads.
 
Ok so im still working on the throttle part of this thing. I would say it is the most difficult part of this project. I have made one throttle already, by bending some aluminum up and bolting it onto the back of the TB to act as a pivot point to get some angle at the throttle arm. This made it much smoother, but not perfect so i scraped it.

Anyways, i have come across a website with someone over in the UK that has done a Tempo conversion on his MGB. It was a fairly good read, heres the link
link

After reading his site i emailed him asking about his throttle setup, here are some pictures he sent back.

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Dont mind the little tab on the plate bolted onto the TB, that is for a manual throttle control he has on his. That plate is exactly what i made already, and using the same 2 holes originally used for the idler-motor. What is different about his setup is that "cam" plate on his throttle, much like on a motorcycle. I believe this is the best way to get a smooth throttle, and it is what i plan on doing next.

I stopped by two motorcycle repair shops and both did not have any of those plates and could not get one. There is one small motorcycle bone yard i know about that i will stop by soon to see if i can snag one there. If not, i will make my own. To do that i think i will get a good strong piece of flat steel, cut a semi-circle out about the same radius as the current one. Then bend a piece of fuel tubing, left over from the return line, to the right shape and weld it on.

Also, i scrapped what i had done on my VE table to date and am going to start over fresh when my throttle is done. I had some injector settings wrong, and i am going to convert over to high-impedance. I am doing this because the PWM setting was messing with my tuning (because i am using a MS1 board) To do this i put a 8ohm resister inline in the injector circuit.
 
What injectors have you found that fit that thing?

My tempo project is on hold since its running well at the moment but my caddy is having problems so the MS is going in that as we speak. I orderd a wideband o2 setup so I dont have to guess as much what is going on.
 
Injector selection is limited to OEM injectors (as far as i know) from all the cars that used this TB. Tempo, Taurus,Topaz, sable, and escort i think. They have different color tops on the injectors to show their flow rate. I dont remember all of them but green is the biggest (as far as i know again) The injector is the right size to fuel the 200ci six, it flows 700cc/m @ 12.5psi (this is what the seller told me) and that comes out about what the megasquirt manual recommends for our engine size. As far as there only being one injector goes, i still have to find that out how well it works. It should be fine, i mean it Was OEM, and nothing flawed ever came from OEM right??? :D

If you want to find one just search ebay for "tempo injector." Its the single big injector usually with a green or blue cap.

Yea, by far the people on the Megasquirt forums HIGHLY recommend a wideband. Where did you order your wideband from and how much did ya pay convert?

Thanks FB71! That will definitely help my search for this "wheel!"
 
green top was the highest flow. used to work in a cammed-up 1.9 Escort with a 4spd.... :eek:

Motorsport used to sell a mean cam for the 1.9....
 
Thats what I read and what they told me. Should be here Friday so I should have an update after the weekend. I guess you can buy a gauge if you want to or just look at it with a computer. For how often I need one it looked like a good deal to me. $350+ for most of them seemed high. My plan is to let it build up the tables and then replace it with a regular narrow band and use the wideband for other projects.
 
how did that o2 sensor workout?

Here is what i did for my throttle.

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Somethings that you dont see in the picture: The original piece of metal that had the quick disconnect on it i put back on, because this is what made the throttle stop and idle adjustment work. I just pressed the quick disconnect ball out and slipped the cam on top of it. I then drilled and taped the throttle shaft and put a screw in to hold the new throttle cam onto the shaft. Also i made a bracket just like on the UK guys setup. I ended up just making my own cable from the throttle arm to the throttle body. Ill post some pictures on that sometime.
 
The wideband works fine. Initial problem is I had it hooked to bad power so it turned out to stay in warmup mode most of the time which gives a default reading that looks ok if you dont have megatune setup properly. Man what a learning curve, there doesnt appear to be anything that you cant adjust. I spent 2 days more or less working the bugs out of the setup like getting a clean tach signal and getting the rest of the stuff to talk and calibrate. I updated to the latest code and there are a lot of features in there that are a bit easier to use than the 2.2 or whatever I loaded on there in the spring when I built the thing. I got a good start on a VE table but have to figure out how to program the Acceleration Enrichment. They tell you not to use it till you get the tables dialed in but no matter what I do to the tables I cant get the thing to get rolling from a dead stop, it always goes lean so I think because of the size of my motor and maybe the throttle size I am going to have to put in some AE. I am having trouble grasping how it works though and what would be good starting numbers. I am also trying to figure out if I have my injectors set right, I dont want to burn them out. Autotune cant do everything you still have to guess the table to get close then you can let autotune work it some more then I have been going back in manually and smoothing things out. Sometimes if you get a misfire it miss reads that and puts a big notch in the table but those are easy to spot on the graph and fix. I still think once you learn how to tune this stuff its gonna be so cool and you are going to be able to do so much with it. I dont know how you could do something like a turbo without something like MS.
 
I was having the same problem with my tempo settup when i first started it up a wile back. My dads house is on the side of a large hill, and i could barrly get it out of our driveway. It would go WAY lean whenever any kind of load was put on the engine. It also would not accel for crap. After looking everywhere for problems, and tuning the HELL out of the VE tables, i figured out why the VE tables cameout looking so funky (which is why i have not posted up anything yet on this thread)

Long story short, i switched to using high impidance for my injector circut.

Quick description of the two methods of controlling the injector:
1. low-impidance... just wire up the injector to the MS with a + and - ... The MS then uses what is called PulseWidthModulation (PWM) to keep the injector from overheating. What it does is... to open the injecor it pulses full voltage to get it open, then it blips the voltage to keep it open wile it injects the fuel (also known as peek and hold) I was having trouble with this, mainly because i am using a MS1 and i didnt do any extra modifications to the mainboard (all kinds of difficulties that i could not get by). If anyone desided to go this rought, i highly recomend getting a MS2 mainboard if you are going to use PWM. PWM is a nice thing to have, but i just could not get it to work with my MS1.

2. High-impidance... just wire up the injector to the MS with a + and - ... but this time have a single resistor in series (right in-line) with the injector. With this resistor, you can have the MS just apply %100 voltage to the injector all the time, no PWM at all. This change has fixed 99.9% of my problems. The only down side to this is that it slightly increases the opening time of the injector. The resistor value i am using is 8ohms, and make sure you get at least 15watt resistor.

...So i just got done driving my falcon today... I reset the code back to its original state (the one i made before i even started up the car for the first time) exept this time i was running high-impidance. Last time i could not get it out of the driveway, this time i was driving up and down large hills with no problems, and i did not even touch the computer. Amazingly it a very close tune. I did not go above 15% throttle yet though, as i was driving the car and could not change the VE tables as i was driving. It stayed on the rich side the whole time however.

Things to do now:
I have developed a TPS problem after taking off my throttlebody to change out my throttle cam, need to fix this.

tune the VE tables, although they are not too far off already.

Tune the Accel Enrichment, the slow speed AE is good, but the fast speed AE needs to be a bit richer.

So thats where im at now :D lol im actually extremely happy right now at how my well my falcon drove today, on an untuned program! woohoo! Its going to be a walk in the part from here on.
 
Interesting turn of events...

My tps is now fubar, as it would flicker between 0% and 8%, this was enough to cause the AE to kick in and not let my car idle. So i disconnected the TPS and took it for a drive just to make sure that everything was fine. Interestingly enough, it was more than fine. It acceled BETTER than when i had the TPS hooked up (the AE works off of the TPS, so i had no AE when i did this test!) After some thought i figured out my problem, and i feel a little stupid for not seeing this earlier.

The AE settings out of the megasquirt manual is something like 2ms at the slowest pedal speed. I havent thought much about this since im still working on the VE tables and not the AE yet, but now that i have, 2ms is A LOT!!! Since i have an idle Pulse width of ~2.1ms, and that 2ms AE shot would be added onto what is normaly needed at that particular rpm/map range, thats a lot of fuel to be pouring down the engine. No wonder i has having AE problems before, thats too much fuel. I think i will fix the TPS, but leave it unhooked for now as i tune the VE table, then i will hook it back up and tune the AE. Even without AE, it is very drivable, so it looks like i get to drive around town in my falcon again 8) 8) 8) woohoo!
 
With a little luck I will be working on mine this weekend. Good to know that unhooking the tps will make sure ae is not missing with things. I updated the software in mine and forgot to calibrate the TPS so closed it read 15%. For some reason this made it start and idle better.
 
I have been driving the falcon for a few days now. Every time i drive it i make a data log, so that when i get home i can go view the entire trip's record of what happened, and then make changes to my VE table as i look at the data log. So far i have been focusing on the lean parts of the table and not as much on the rich parts, but i will get a great looking VE table within a few weeks. Its going to take a wile because each time i do changes to my VE table, i try and not change more that a few points, and each of those points only %1-2, then drive the car again before making anymore changes.

As of right now, the low end of the VE table is looking good. from idle to 3000rpm i have it %90 tuned. It is completely drivable, even without AE (but i do hope to have that fixed soooon.) Up from 3000rpm i have %0 tuned, as i have not yet gone above 3000rpm. By the look of the VE table thats being formed, the most efficient place is below 3000rpm anyways.

LINK Right click and save as "AnyName.msq"

That is where im at. Like i said, i have fixed MOST of the lean spots, but there are still rich spots in it. I will have a better one posted up soon.

One last thing, if anyone does use this "beta" code, dont use the AE settings, they are way to massive. I still have not touched them.
 
Sweet man, Im glad to hear its working out.

I kinda screwed up my order - it was supposed to be EFI then Turbo, but I've got it backwards.

I do hope to get to the EFI soon, however.
 
I updated to the newer code so it wont let me read your file.

I keep changing my injector settings and having to start over on my VE tables. Im not sure I have them right even now. The one guy that has answered some of my questions seems to be changing his answers and not reading about my setup so Im not sure he knows what he is talking about.

I dont remember are you using any o2 sensor? Im using a wideband and need to get someone to drive with me so I can change my AFR map to something that works better with my setup then autotune should work fairly well.

What are you doing to turn AE off? I thought I had it off but I think it was on. The part of the manual seems to have a typo because if I use their numbers it wont take them.

Im getting close but I need to get someone to drive while I watch the laptop closer. I have tried to use the datalog but without knowing MPH and what gear the transmission is in its hard to tell what area I need to be working on.
 
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