CHEAP Wideband kits!

Well, that idea is truly a bust, at least with the gauge I've got. I tried both methods (math and potentiometer), hooking them up between the gauge poles, inner winding, and outer winding - and the gauge just won't register much more than enough to barely move the needle, let alone go to full travel. I did get a couple of resistors REALLY hot, though... :shock: I think that the double-coil construction of this automotive gauge just doesn't behave like a "normal" voltmeter, probably due to the 8V startpoint (?).
JAW006.jpg
 
I got the JAW with a digital display, I was trying to get an analog needle-type gauge to work alongside the digital one - easier to see changes on a real gauge.
 
jamyers":3qx4zja3 said:
Well, that idea is truly a bust, at least with the gauge I've got. I tried both methods (math and potentiometer), hooking them up between the gauge poles, inner winding, and outer winding - and the gauge just won't register much more than enough to barely move the needle, let alone go to full travel. I did get a couple of resistors REALLY hot, though... :shock: I think that the double-coil construction of this automotive gauge just doesn't behave like a "normal" voltmeter, probably due to the 8V startpoint .....
Click to expand...

You need a gauge with about a million ohms per volt input impedance to even have a chance of success.
Joe
 
Yeah, Joe is right. When I suggested the above, I forgot that you were driving it from the JAW's output.

You could also use an op amp.
 
Well, since the 0-5V panel meter is working pretty well, and I don't think I'll use my JAW as a permanent install, I've set the 8-18 gauge idea aside (for now).

Now I'm trying to rig up a TPS mount for the H/W 5200 carb. Whee!
 
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