Anybody got an msq I can look at???

I got the truck started on the megasquirt yesterday, but it is in need of some serious tuning. The megasquirt defaults seemed to have the timing advanced super far (the lowest advance on the table is 26 degrees!), and it seemed to be running a little rich, but it ran.
I have begun what looks to be a pretty long process of tuning, and it would be really helpful if I had a better starting point. Has anyone got their 300 to run well on megasquirt? If you have, can I have a copy of your msq to play with.
I am running a 300 with the batch fire FI tin off a 94 F-150 (except the dizzy, which is an old duraspark VR unit), punched .30 over with a very mild cam.
Also, I haven't seen a usable signal from the one wire O2 sensor I installed. I haven't driven the truck yet, so it may be that it hasn't gotten hot enough to begin operating, but I expected to see something from it. Does anyone have any advice on this? I would really like to have the O2 sensor up and running before I start putting the engine under a load so that I can get the mixture close quickly.
ALso, the PWM valve seems to be stuck open no matter what I do with the settings in megatune, has anyone had any problems with this? I have 12v going to one side of the PWM, and the ground is coming back through pin 30 to the megasquirt where the circuit should be opened and closed by the transistor I wired in place of Q4 (if I am understanding everything correctly). I unplugged the PWM, and the engine died, so I am pretty sure the PWM is not simply stuck. If anyone knows anything else about this, or has a slick way of testing the circuit, I would sure like to hear it...
Thanks,
ALT

i wonder if you could get a propane torch and heat up the exhaust pipe around the area where the O2 sensor is....

as for the PWM, there's not an open/closed loop setting with the MS system, is there? if so, i would think that the O2 sensor not warming up would have something to do with that....

I would send you my MSQ but its for a 2bbl TBI Cadillac 500 so I dont think it would do you much good.

Ignore the O2 sensor until it seems to be running good. Misfires will give false readings. Do what ever you have to the warm up wizard to keep it running long enough to get it off the warm up mode. Go into REQ FUEL and adjust that number till it seems to idle well. Rev it a bit and make more changes to REQ FUEL till you find a combo of idle and reving that sounds good. At that point if its safe to do so (traffic and such) take it for a ride around the block. Play with the REQ FUEL to get the best apparent over all performance around the block. This should get you close so you can start messing with different areas of the VE table. By far the best way to do it is with a co pilot. If the engine seems to be running good and you have a wide band O2 you can start looking at that. If you have a narrow band (factory) you likely still wont be getting useful readings until you do some tweaking by ear/ feel. Dont worry about the warm up tables until you have it fairly drivable, just have your computer hooked up when you start it to make adjustments to the warm up as needed to keep it running. For the most part after I got mine to be fairly drivable I was pretty much using the default warm up.

Where is req fuel? I haven't found it for some reason. I have been using the wizard on the ve table to bump the whole table around. I have finally found a place where the ve seems to be somewhere between way too rich and way too lean, so I have been flattening the table out because it seems to go from too lean to too rich in a hurry.
Did you mess with the spark table much? It seems like the preset variables were really far advanced. I offset them back quite a bit and the engine seems a lot happier at idle. The table still seems to advance the spark pretty quickly though, and I think I will probably pull it back a little in the middle ranges before long.
The truck is already a driver though. It isn't comfortable because the seat still isn't in there, but I ran it down to get the exhaust done just now...
Hopefully, I will have it all back together this weekend, and be able to put her through her paces and get good curves set for the timing and mixture soon...

Req fuel is under Fuel Setup tab, injection control.

20* of timing should be good. Have you put on a timing light to see where its running? Whats your trigger offset? Thats under Ignition setup, base ignition setup.

The spec on the 94 F-150 from which I pulled the engine was 10 degrees advance at idle. That is about where I have started. I eyeballed my distributor when I put it in, and when I checked it with the light I was within two degrees of the value the megasquirt displays, so I haven't used the offset correction and it is still set at zero. I should probably dial it in a little tighter, but at the time the idle was rough and I was wasting my time trying to get a better reading than that. I was also thinking of offsetting -15, then dialing the distributor back to match so that when the timing curve advances 15 the rotor is pointing at the middle of its terminal on the cap, I don't know if crossfiring will be a problem or not, but that would probably solve it. I am a little worried about this because with the distributor locked out, the mechanical advance doesn't rotate the rotor to match the ignition advance (although it seems like I am probably going to be ok because a lot of the newer distributors didn't use mechanical advance and had the rotor rigidly fixed to the gear that engages the camshaft).
There is also some really bad news. After getting the exhaust on, it sounds like something is wrong with the valve train on #1 cylinder. I am not sure what it could be yet, but I have a feeling I am going to have the engine back at the machinist before I get it up and running properly. I keep getting a lean burn reading from my 02 sensor, even when I know I am running the engine pretty rich. I think this is caused because #1 is not firing right and is dumping unburned fuel and air into the exhaust.
With the flex tubing exhaust I used to get the engine started, I couldn't hear anything, but it sounds now like I may have a stuck lifter or something. There is a pretty bad sound like a mechanical lifter, only much louder, coming from the front of the block. I figure that valve problems would knock down the compression by a couple percent, so I am going to run a compression check on it today and see if I can pinpoint the trouble...

Oh, the O2 sensor started to work when I got the new exhaust in place. I think that the old stuff probably didn't ground the housing reliably enough...