EDIS trigger wheel

K

Kstang

Well-known member
I am working on getting a Megasquirt system set up on my car. I have decided to use for EDIS6 for my ignition. I am looking at my trigger wheel options. One option is to get one of the generic trigger wheels from the net, some stand offs and attache it to the threaded puller holes and have it just out side of the front pulley. I also plan to go to an electric fan. I was looking online and found this from a ford ranger v6 3.0, the physical specs seem close from what I can tell online. I am going to hit a junk yard and see if I can pull one for further inspection. Would a slight overall dimension difference or weight difference change anything? Did any of the aussie 6's use EDIS?


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aussie 4.0l overhead cam sixes ran edis in the later modles. EF, EL and AU 1 & 2 all ran the three coil pack system triggered off the harmonic ballancer with a cam sensor stuck down the old dizzy hole for tdc reference and to drive the oil pump. I'm not totally sure if the ballancers are similar in dimensions but be carefull swapping ballancers as the fords were external ballance i think, meaning you'll have to take the rotating assy to a machine shop to be ballanced if you intend using a dif ballancer
 
so the balancers are matched to the engine. I did not know that but that is what I wanted to know.
 
The V6 is balanced differently from the inline six.

First you need to see if the ID of the balancer is the same or close to our inlines.

If it is then IIRC there will be a chuck or lump of metal visible on the backside of the balancer. You might be able to take that somewhere and have that weight cut out or professionally rebalanced to zero balance.

Seems like it would be easier to use some washers as spacers and longer crank pulley bolts.

I have also considered a generic crank trigger wheel bored out for the OD of the part that slides over the crank snout and maybe attach it with epoxy so it will be behind the balancer and close to block making it easier to locate the sensor?
 
Anlushac11":3ael6aaa said:
Seems like it would be easier to use some washers as spacers and longer crank pulley bolts.
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This is what I plan on doing and then using the puller holes to keep it from rotating with some standoffs.
 
i was thinking about having the 1/4 inch high lip at the back of my 300's balencer machined to a 36-1, it would just be integrel to the balencer then
 
I just got my EDIS 6 to start on my 300 last weekend. I chucked up the balancer in the lathe and took off the outermost pulley down to the hub section. Since the 300 balancer is not balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly, as long as you take off an even amount and not too much, it will be ok. You also have to mount it to the hub, not the dampened pulley section.

I was able to get a tone ring off of a 1.9l escort engine or something like that, drilled and tapped 4 set screws radially in the portion of hub that I turned off, and mounted the tone ring on the outer part. Then I just made a heavy bracket for the VR sensor that bolted to the timing cover bolts. It had to be heavy enough to reach to the balancer without creating a lot of vibration/movement in the sensor. Ill have a bunch of pics up in a little while if you'd like to see how I did it.

Using a balancer not intended would probably be the least desirable method to go. The long crank of the I6 depends on correct dampening to keep from breaking.

Of course there's ALWAYS more than one way to do things!
 
Plus the dizzy wobbles around and scatters the timing anyhow. Slack in the timing set, cam gears, and advance mechanism all mean the dizzy is inaccurate. The TFI stuff eliminates the advance (I have a converted 2.3 TFI setup on my 200 and it is spectacular), but still has the rest to deal with.
 
The other problem is the EDIS 6 is a waste spark system. It fires on both the compression and exhaust strokes of two cylinders at once. Combined with the fact that the dizzy moves at 1 revolution per complete cycle means the edis trigger would need another trigger point to simulate the crank motion.

Also, since you are dealing with a small area, you have a lower tolerance for error on placement of the sensor. WIth a larger crank driven trigger wheel, it's more accurate.

I haven't done the math, but if you took a ford explorer edis trigger (I plan to scavange mine from my explorer when I part it out) and hollowed out everything but the square sine trigger wheel, welded that to the balancer, I can't imagine as light as it is that it would through off the balance anymore than a belt that is tensioned too much. Combined with having 7 bearings, there isn't much wiggle room for the crank to transmit any vibrations.

Now, it would need to be centered very carefully to try to keep it as a neutral rotating addition.
 
CNC-Dude":onhd3bzq said:
wallaka":onhd3bzq said:
Bayrunner":onhd3bzq said:
Why can't you use the dizzy as your triger?
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The whole point is to get rid of the dizzy!
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If you get rid of the dizzy...how you gonna' drive to oil pump.
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A dummy shaft from a 2.3 OHC fits right in the dizzy hole like it was made for it. No fab, no muss, no fuss.

Gotta swap the gear, that's all. About a 2 minute job. ;) :wow:
 
CNC-Dude":1q564eil said:
I knew that, I was just wondering if he did,
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Ahh ok - i've seen your posts on here and I figured you knew - you didn't put enough sarcasm into it!

A dummy shaft from a 2.3 OHC fits right in the dizzy hole like it was made for it. No fab, no muss, no fuss.

Gotta swap the gear, that's all. About a 2 minute job. ;) :wow:
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Thats a cool idea. If I have any problems with mine, maybe I'll have to look into that.
 
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