Convince me why I need MegaSquirt 2

Just like the title says. I've decided to go MegaSquirt, but don't want to miss out by not getting a MS2. Got the CFI stuff, the TFI dizzy etc from Xflow. I don't think that I need the higher-resolution tables and SMD components means that I can't fix them if something goes wrong. Megasquirt 1 with MSnS-Extra firmware should run the dizzy. The CFI injectors are low-impedance, but there's only two of them...I may need the later PCB? I don't mind soldering instead of using jumpers. I can easily upgrade to the MS2 card if I feel the need later.

What am I missing?

I have not followed things very closely since I got mine running last year but it seemed like all the development was moving to the MS2. Looking at the whole project cost did not seem like that big of an issue. Other than cost there did not seem to be a downside to the 2.

The only real advantage of MS2 is it allows ignition control so you can run later model high energy ignitions like TFI or EDIS.

If you want to run your stock or already upgraded ignition hten not a big advantage.

Also MS2 uses a larger bit count processor so its fuel injection map is larger which allows for more precise control if you are running large injectors. Advantage is smoother idle.

Again not a biggie if this is a basic street setup.

Yeah, basic street setup. I'm not looking for anything crazy...yet. I still need some misc. parts before the setup is complete. I'm assuming that the CFI regulator will be good enough. I got a BBK 255 gph fuel pump, but could plumb an external regulator if needed. I still need to get the fuel line and run it--that stuff is expensive! Still gotta get the exhaust finished. It's been too hot to get in the garage and weld. Plus I need a bung for the O2 sensor. Like I said, I have a TFI dizzy converted for 6-cylinder use. I'll need to rig up a throttle. There was a Fairmont in the junkyard with the cable throttle setup, I will probably go pull that and a fuse block/relay board from something.

If you are running low impedance injectors the megasquirt VERSION 3 board is the way to go, since it has ready-to-go current limiting circuits, etc. It also is designed better than the 2.2. I've repaired a few 2.2 and 3 boards and the V3 is always better... you also get goodies like spark control on the pcb if you go with MS squirt'n'spark or the MS2 processor. Yes, it can all be done with the 2.2 but it's harder and messier.

I've been running a V3 pcb with the MS2 processor for about 3.5 years - no troubles except for tuning issues. (the tuning issues are mostly a result of my laziness)

Eh, might as well do it right the first time and get the most expensive one I guess

wallaka":198ht73j said:

Eh, might as well do it right the first time and get the most expensive one I guess

Click to expand...

Fair enough.... I'd spend the $100 or so in the first instance then you shouldn't need an upgrade. It's not a lot when compared to the rest that we all spend on motor cars.

True enough. I'm just trying to do it on the cheap. Ordered it from DIY Autotune today, should be here next week.

Are you getting it built or in a kit? What else you get to go with it?

I got the v3.57 board, so no soldering on that. I did buy an unassembled relay board so I could have a little fun. And I got some 12-pair cable for $35 from another source...I'm not paying $80 for a cable when I have pin crimpers and pins at my house already.

Got all of the stuff from DIYAutoTune today! That was some fast shipping. The USPS is nearly always faster than UPS or FedEx anyhow.

Got the Holley->1V adapter ordered from Mike, and I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow to pull the cable throttle setup off of a Fairmont I saw there. Ordered a fuel line system from Summit, should be here next week. Conceivably, I could be running by next weekend~!

Still gotta get that pesky exhaust done, though...

Before you get too far modifying the car to install (unless its already not drivable) Get the MS setup and powered and throw a few sensors on it to make sure you can get your computer able to communicate with it. Sometimes getting connected is as much work as all the mechanical stuff. If you already got that part working it will save you some down time on the car.

Pics of the relay board

My test setup...something's wrong with my laptop's serial port, so I'm doing it at my desktop. I have all of the sensors connected and all of the wiring except the little bit to connect the injectors. I was at least able to verify that the TPS, TFI SPOUT, and temp sensors work correctly.

Cool. You going to mount the relay board under the hood or inside somewhere? I did mine under the hood but just dont really like it. Not sure exactly what I dont like and it has worked for 2 years but was thinking of putting the next one inside or maybe not using the relay board. I saw pics of one guys install where he bolted the relay board to the top of the ECU. Seemed to be a fairly clean looking setup.

I'll mount it underhood initially. I am still waiting on some wire loom and heatshrink and so on to finish the wiring up. After that, I might mount it inside.

I like the relay board mainly because of the terminal strips. They make things so much easier.

Got the TFI distributor and coil mounted, and temporarily wired up with the ECU and relay board. Bought a fused distribution box running off of a 40A relay triggered from the original coil wire for all of the new switched power needs. It should be hot during starting as well as regular running. I tried to fire it up and run on only the ignition side, but it wasn't firing. Unfortunately the serial port on my laptop stopped working in the past year or so and I couldn't see what was happening. I'll have to buy one of those USB-serial adapters to see what is going on. In the meantime, I'm gonna check and see if the coil is bad or not. I also have another TFI module, I might see if swapping it out will do anything.

I set the ignition to the specs used on the 5.0 TFI ignition, I figured that would work. There is just a basic advance curve on there now, 10* static, 36* total timing, all in by 3500.

Bought a USB->serial converter...doesn't work

The less expensive ones seem to have the most problems. The ones that work seem to be at least $50. Mine is older but was made by Keyspan. I have not had any trouble connecting to anything with it. It has a driver that lets me select several parameters of the port I am trying to emulate. The cheap ones do not seem to have this option.

I just ordered a new computer. I couldn't find a laptop with a serial port, so I bought a barebones kit from newegg.com. It's a mini-itx board + dual core processor, onboard graphics, and case. That and 1GB of RAM was less than 150 bucks. I already have a hard drive, but a fully functioning computer could be easily built for less than $200 that is more powerful than most desktop machines were in 2003. Cool stuff. This should be very portable, it's 2.95" x 12.40" x 7.87". Only need keyboard/mouse and monitor. Which I have spares of.

So hopefully I'll have some real updates soon. I'm leaving on a business trip to San Antonio for a week on Sunday, so I might not have time to do much until I get back.