Understanding SEFi (Sequential Injection) Cam Synchronizers

xctasy

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"Understanding SEFi (Sequential Injection) Cam Synchronizers"

Using EDIS 3.8 /4.2 Essex 90 V6 cam Synchronizer.

eg Engine Camshaft Synchronizer CSYN Compatible Replacement For 1996-2006 Ford and Mercury 3.8L 4.2L V6 Oem Fit CSYN05


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CPS41WYlCo1QaL._AC_.jpg


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Internal structure, example only (5.0 V8 Explorer)

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Example ifrom thesameguy is using an earlier 2.3 liter TFi Ford Distributor Only as an Oil Pump and Distributor blank-off when using EDIS or GM's coil before plug.



viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72783&p=559468#p559468

xctasy":nfff8uld said:
LOL, :cool: :LOL: good choice. If your expecting to fly soon, your happy day is here again...

:cool:


Between XFlow_Fairlane and thesameguy in this post, http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=67718, a plan was hatched out with the Lima 1992 year 2300 cam synchronizer.

Ranger, Mustang should be the same about those later years. It was XFlow_Fairlane who used the 2.3 drive way back in the day, and it didn't take much to set thesameguy on the right path.


These two posts give you the vital ingredients..

thesameguy":nfff8uld said:
I went by the junkyard last weekend, and amazingly there were two '92 4-cylinder Mustangs there. I almost pulled the whole motor I was so happy (can't have too many 2.3l Lima parts around!), but instead I just pulled the oil pump drive.

Here is what it looks like removed:

falcon_edis_pumpdrive1.JPG


Couple things are true:

1. The gear is different compared to a six. It's at least a different diameter, didn't bother counting the teeth.
2. The shaft size is the same between the two, but there is a crown on top of the six's gear that interferes with the body of Mustang part.
3. The shaft on the Mustang part is about 1/4" longer from gear to nose than on the six. The recess/drive for the oil pump shaft is about 1/4" deeper than the six's distributor, so it could lose some length.

Here's an image approximating the gear interference:

falcon_edis_pumpdrive2.JPG


So.... I dropped the gear and pump drive off at a machine stop. They are gonna turn down the gear and trim the nose off the shaft. Hopefully that does it. I can't see any immediate reason why it won't.


thesameguy":nfff8uld said:
Got the oil pump drive back from the machine shop.

This picture shows the modified drive versus the original. Notice the top of the gear (post above) has been machined off, and the nose of drive has been removed. The 2.3l four is thicker than the small six here, so the drive is about 1/4" longer.

falcon_edis_drivecomparison_sm.JPG


Here is the measurement between the tip of the drive the hole for the roll pin. This measurement is on a 200ci six distributor shaft with the gear removed. This is what you need to get the shaft on the 2.3l oil pump drive down to.

falcon_edis_drivelength_sm.JPG


And, finally, here it is installed. Although a total anachronism, it just about looks like this motor was designed to have distributorless ignition from the beginning! I used the hold down from the 2.3l motor, as it fits much better of the drive that the stock piece. I had to hack it in half and redrill the hole, but it's a better fit and I won't have to worry about the drive floating out the block. ;)

falcon_edis_driveinstalled_sm.JPG


Only point of concern for me is that I got the gear installed properly vertically. Pretty sure my measurements were all good, but I snapped some pictures of the teeth on the drive gear and will check out wear in a while to make sure it doesn't need adjustment.

This project is pretty much DONE. I am really looking forward to many months of driving this car and NOT working on it. :)


Maybee the 49.447 mm reading (if that what it is, 1.9467" decimalized) can be used to your advantage


A good Hex drive to oil pump is below. This is for situations where you might have a bigger oil pump or different distance to the pump because you have adapted a 2.3/2.5 Synchronizer. .

The specs on the 1988 to pre 3/29/2000 3.8 Essex 90 dgree Fox, Fox 4, Taurus, Windstar Melling Heavy-Duty Intermediate Driveshafts IS137.

Length--6.74 IN, Width IN, 5/16 Hex
 
67Straightsix":ral6j41l said:
66Sprint6":ral6j41l said:
Looks awesome! Your headers make mine look like less of a headache!!! I was happy to design something that would fit nice and tidy and not interfere with anything along the way...yours take up every bit of room and then some.

Matt

Your set-up is clean - I had the a/c to work around, which made things complicated.
I've finished the adapter for the 5.0 bell housing and have got my coil bracket made - I just have to make the throttle body adapter and then all my fabrication
on the motor will be done!! :beer: Then the wiring begins...

plxzfwcaj

plrrxrfjj


67Straightsix":ral6j41l said:
drag-200stang":ral6j41l said:
(y) What did you have to do to get the 3.8 to fit? I believe they say to set the program to hall effect and falling edge is best? Also what cam shaft are you using?
One thing I would like to caution you on is bad spark timing under boost will destroy things, you will make good power and think everything is fine...Just make sure that noise is not false triggering spark and that it is what you are commanding it to be before boosting it.

The shaft on the 3.8 is longer than our inlines. I cut the synchronizer of the top of the shaft and bored a hole through the center of the synchronizer. Then I cut the shaft down to the correct size and tapped a 1/4' hole in the synchronizer end. The cam sensor body is a direct slip-on into the block. You need to change the cam gear the 3.8 is reverse rotation to the inline six.
[image]https://imageshack.com/i/pm0CzysRj[/image]
This pic is not the sensor I used, it's the magnetic sensor - but I did the same modifications to both the magnetic and hall effect sensors.
Holley recommends falling edge
I'm using Clay Smith Cams - custom turbo grind.
Thanks for the warning, I plan to do a lot of tuning before the turbo goes on.
 
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