Putting in the tranny and bell housing

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StarDiero75
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Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #1 by StarDiero75 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:03 am

Howdy guys!

Please let people answer this before banishing it to the tranny section.

Is it easier to bolt the bell housing up first, then put the tranny in, or put the 2 together first then put them in? Im realizing now after getting the clutch in that getting the throwout bearing in front of the fork, while having the fork stuck in place with the bell mounted is going to be tricky. But bolting the bell to the adapter plate is gonna suck to with the tranny in the way.

This a 65 Ranchero 200 with a 3.03

Thanks guys!
Ryan
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--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

mustang6
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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #2 by mustang6 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:55 am

Bellhousing goes on first, then you can get the clutch bearing/arm all set up, pull out your clutch alignment shaft and stab the tranny.
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

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ledslinger29
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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #3 by ledslinger29 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:29 am

X2
68 Bronco Halfcab 170 wallered out .060 over, oversized valves, zero decked, 9:1 SCR, Autolite 1100 w/ Loadomatic/Pertronix, Schneider 248/56H cam

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powerband
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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #4 by powerband » Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:42 am

The diaphragm type clutch requires the early TO bearing to fit the TO fork arm.

With Bellhouse, TO Fork and TO bearing attached with engine slightly tipped down in rear, you can 'stab' tranny shaft through TO bearing fairly easily. Just keep fork in retracted position and it should not dislodge. Until the rubber boot is installed you can see into bell to make sure TO didn't dislodge from fork. ( helps to keep fork retracted as you seat tranny splines in clutch plate.) NEVER force tranny or use bolts for pulling it in, tranny should seat against bell with no gap BEFORE bolting tight.


not clear what u mean by:
bolting the bell to the adapter plate is gonna suck to with the tranny in the way.
If you're using an adapter plate, won't you fully attach it to bell while separated before installing?.

Have fun
"Take time to stop and smell... The roadkill..."

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powerband
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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #5 by powerband » Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:55 pm

A simple method to slide tranny easily into place is to get two bolts @4" long with same thread as tranny to Bellhouse bolts, cut heads off and finger-screw them into lower holes in bell for guides as you nurse tranny's input thru TO and splines into clutch plate.

haev fun
"Take time to stop and smell... The roadkill..."

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StarDiero75
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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #6 by StarDiero75 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:16 pm

So the TO bearing doesnt just rest against the fork? It gets attached?

Yes i have the 67 TO bearing to match the fork and bell
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

mustang6
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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #7 by mustang6 » Wed Feb 21, 2018 3:56 am

The TO bearing attaches to the end of the clutch fork with clips that are riveted into the TO bearing carrier plate.

Image

Just an extra tip- despite all my efforts to keep the clutch perfectly aligned with the pilot bushing when stabbing the transmission, sometimes I let too much weight rest on the clutch splines and it just slightly moves the clutch disk out of alignment- just a hair off will make it impossible to get that input shaft into the pilot bushing.

The first few times I did this-(sometimes it happens sometimes it doesn't), I would try and try to get the tranny in that last inch or two (RESIST the temptation to force it together with bolts!), then ultimately pull it back out, take off the bellhousing, loosen the clutch cover bolts, re-insert the alignment shaft, and put it all back together and try again.

Finally one time, after sitting back and grumbling over my dilemma, I finally used my brain. I got back under there and got the tranny ready to go in that last misaligned inch or two, then had an assistant lightly step on the clutch, partially engaging it. This released the clutch cover and gave me complete control over the tranny + clutch plate (which was already started on the tranny input shaft splines), allowing me to move the tranny around and "find the hole". Find the hole, push it in that last inch or two, have the assistant let off the clutch and it's all done, centered on the pilot bushing, ready to bolt closed. This process is so effective I actually don't even use the alignment tools any more, just eyeball it to get close and use the assistant- works every time!
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #8 by StarDiero75 » Sat Feb 24, 2018 3:29 am

mustang6 wrote:The TO bearing attaches to the end of the clutch fork with clips that are riveted into the TO bearing carrier plate.

Image

Just an extra tip- despite all my efforts to keep the clutch perfectly aligned with the pilot bushing when stabbing the transmission, sometimes I let too much weight rest on the clutch splines and it just slightly moves the clutch disk out of alignment- just a hair off will make it impossible to get that input shaft into the pilot bushing.

The first few times I did this-(sometimes it happens sometimes it doesn't), I would try and try to get the tranny in that last inch or two (RESIST the temptation to force it together with bolts!), then ultimately pull it back out, take off the bellhousing, loosen the clutch cover bolts, re-insert the alignment shaft, and put it all back together and try again.

Finally one time, after sitting back and grumbling over my dilemma, I finally used my brain. I got back under there and got the tranny ready to go in that last misaligned inch or two, then had an assistant lightly step on the clutch, partially engaging it. This released the clutch cover and gave me complete control over the tranny + clutch plate (which was already started on the tranny input shaft splines), allowing me to move the tranny around and "find the hole". Find the hole, push it in that last inch or two, have the assistant let off the clutch and it's all done, centered on the pilot bushing, ready to bolt closed. This process is so effective I actually don't even use the alignment tools any more, just eyeball it to get close and use the assistant- works every time!

Man i tried putting the tranny in after i got the bell on and there was no way in heck it was going in. Finally i took the bell off and put the TO bearing on the tranny and went from this approach, worked wonders. Bolting the top 2 bell bolts was a pain in the butt but it was worth it rather than screwing around with the tranny on a piece of plywood on a floor jack. But now i gotta take it all apart again since i didnt realize the clips actually clipped on to the fork, i thought they acted as some sort of springs and the fork pressed against the back. I found this out after i put half of the misc crap back on and torqued all the bolts down.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #9 by B RON CO » Sat Feb 24, 2018 8:29 am

Hi you may be able to force to fork clips onto the throw out bearing from the side. I would try to connect them before pulling it apart. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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StarDiero75
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Re: Putting in the tranny and bell housing

Post #10 by StarDiero75 » Sat Feb 24, 2018 2:09 pm

B RON CO wrote:Hi you may be able to force to fork clips onto the throw out bearing from the side. I would try to connect them before pulling it apart. Good luck

Alright, ill try that tomorrow. I hope i can. I hate pulling all that out
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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